Frame saver vs LTS-3

[troymac]

I went Steve Rex's shop the other day and his shop uses LTS-3 not frame saver . Does anyone have experience with this product LTS-3 (I hope Im naming it right ). His shop guy told me it was less expensive and worked as well ? Was curious as I'm building Up A CSI and its at the bare frame stage.

[dave thompson]

I went Steve Rex's shop the other day and his shop uses LTS-3 not frame saver . Does anyone have experience with this product LTS-3 (I hope Im naming it right ). His shop guy told me it was less expensive and worked as well ? Was curious as I'm building Up A CSI and its at the bare frame stage.
It's most likely LPS-3, which is good but not as long lasting as FrameSaver. There's enough stuff in the can of FrameSaver for more than a few bikes. The stuff really works!

[troymac]

Ok Dave thanks a bunch Ill get some frame saver then

[Steve in SLO]

Not to sound like an iconoclastic luddite, but you can always just use linseed oil if you want cheap and effective.
Framesaver works well, but it always bothered me that it is rust colored...how do you ever tell if you are starting to have a problem?

[dave thompson]

Not to sound like an iconoclastic luddite, but you can always just use linseed oil if you want cheap and effective.
Framesaver works well, but it always bothered me that it is rust colored...how do you ever tell if you are starting to have a problem?
FrameSaver isn't just linseed oil, it's, among other things, boiled linseed oil. Which is less costly than the FrameSaver but then you have the problem of getting it inside the frame nooks and crannys where it needs to be. A can of FrameSaver will treat 4 or 5 frames, couplela bucks a frame. Cheap and much easier!

[130R]

maybe i did it wrong but my framesaver lasted me only one frame :o

[Nags&Ducs]

Always wondered how to use Framesaver.

- Do you spray it just on the inside, and then shake it (the frame) all around like your mixing protein powder?
- Do you spray it on the paint and then wipe it off?
- Does the frame have to be without components or can you treat it as a whole bike?

I have two steel frames that I've been thinking about treating but one is partially built and the other is completely built (although I will eventually take off the current DA9 components and swap it out with Campy 10).

Thanks for any feedback.

[dave thompson]

Always wondered how to use Framesaver.

- Do you spray it just on the inside, and then shake it (the frame) all around like your mixing protein powder?
- Do you spray it on the paint and then wipe it off?
- Does the frame have to be without components or can you treat it as a whole bike?

I have two steel frames that I've been thinking about treating but one is partially built and the other is completely built (although I will eventually take off the current DA9 components and swap it out with Campy 10).

Thanks for any feedback.
The best way is to apply to the frame before it's built. Framesaver is very viscous and the ideal way to apply is to spray into the far recesses and turn the frame until the coating is where you want it.

The most critical area for rust is the seat tube and spraying it into the seat tube and allowing it to flow down to the bottom bracket area will do the most benefit to a built bike.

If your frame has the little relief holes in the chain and seat stays, a spritz in there would be good.

Be aware FrameSaver is some very gooey stuff, like dried snot when it sets up and has a strong odor. So using it in a well ventilated area or outside your living area is good. Because it takes an hour or two to set up, it can run out of holes/openings/etc., so have some paper down to protect you linoleum/ carpeting/ whatever.

[Nags&Ducs]

The best way is to apply to the frame before it's built. Framesaver is very viscous and the ideal way to apply is to spray into the far recesses and turn the frame until the coating is where you want it.

The most critical area for rust is the seat tube and spraying it into the seat tube and allowing it to flow down to the bottom bracket area will do the most benefit to a built bike.

If your frame has the little relief holes in the chain and seat stays, a spritz in there would be good.

Be aware FrameSaver is some very gooey stuff, like dried snot when it sets up and has a strong odor. So using it in a well ventilated area or outside your living area is good. Because it takes an hour or two to set up, it can run out of holes/openings/etc., so have some paper down to protect you linoleum/ carpeting/ whatever.

Awesome! Thanks for the tips! With my partially built steel frame, I can easily take off the BB and cranks and apply framesaver. The other, I will do during the swap out. Thanks again Dave!

[Dekonick]

Best used with a bike work stand - in the garage.

Spray in tubes, twist frame (not literally) in stand every couple of minutes to coat, let bike sit and drain for a day or so. I then repeat it 2-3 times letting the bike rest and drain in different positions to get the most coverage. FWIW I have done the same with generic boiled linseed oil - works fine, but much more messy. WHen I used the boiled linseed oil, I put stoppers in all of the holes, poured it in, sloshed it around and repeated 3 times and let it drip a day between applications. Worked just as well as framesaver, but more work. I now use framesaver.

:)

AND don't forget the floor protection! You might even want to put painters tape around the BB shell and other area's to minimize drip drying on the frame - the stuff is nasty when dried - like Dave stated, like really tacky dried snot. Pain in the ass to get off.