frame repair question

[bluecsi]

Hi gang,

I've got a situation here I hope you can help me with.

I've got a 2001 CSI with damaged bottom bracket threads. The threads were accidentally chased with the taps on the wrong sides. So now there are 2 sets of threads there and I have a reversible bottom bracket. Sounds cool and trendy, but it really isn't.:)

Have any of you had this kind of damage to a frame before? How did you fix it? Has it been durable? Who fixed it?

I am working with the responsible parties and have contacted reputable frame builders for guidance.

Thanks

Scott

[eddief]

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html

[oliver1850]

Since it's British, you could have retapped to the slightly larger Italian threads.

There's also the old Mavic bottom bracket that you would need to chamfer the shell for. Probably getting hard to find.

[Pete Serotta]

:hello: :hello: :banana:


Hi gang,

I've got a situation here I hope you can help me with.

I've got a 2001 CSI with damaged bottom bracket threads. The threads were accidentally chased with the taps on the wrong sides. So now there are 2 sets of threads there and I have a reversible bottom bracket. Sounds cool and trendy, but it really isn't.:)

Have any of you had this kind of damage to a frame before? How did you fix it? Has it been durable? Who fixed it?

I am working with the responsible parties and have contacted reputable frame builders for guidance.

Thanks

Scott

[SPOKE]

As stated above you can ream out the damaged threads then tap using Italian tap set. The Mavic bottom bracket solution is possible too but will limit your crank selection to a square taper style.
The other problem with the Mavic solution is finding someone with the changer cutters......I know I have them hiding somewhere in the garage...;)

[Ti Designs]

There is some good news - not a lot, but some. In cutting a reverse set of threads, they didn't eliminate all of the threads, just about half. You could chase the original set of threads and install a BB with some medium strength retainer and probably be just fine. The newer external BB's do well in this case as the crank itself acts as the retainer. I wouldn't go with anything with an aluminum or plastic body, or short threaded section like the Phil Wood retainers. If you must have full threads it's possible to have the shell fluxed and brass run in and tapped. You're going to want to find a builder who's damn good at fillet brazing, and it's gonna cost you a paint job.

This does bring up a good question - what was that person doing with cutting tools? Learning the ropes when it comes to cutting tools and bikes is a very zen experience. It takes years before you're even allowed to pick them up. I found this frustrating as hell when I started working in the shop, but I now understand the reason.

[bike22]

This does bring up a good question - what was that person doing with cutting tools? Learning the ropes when it comes to cutting tools and bikes is a very zen experience. It takes years before you're even allowed to pick them up. I found this frustrating as hell when I started working in the shop, but I now understand the reason.
this.

also, i believe a framebuilder could fill the threads with braze then retap or something. depends on what the frame is worth both to you and in monetary terms.

[pbjbike]

If it was my bike, I`d clean the BB really well with brake cleaner, then mix up some JB Weld and thouroughly fill the valleys of the threads, covering the peaks a little. Then re-tap. JB WELD gets harder over time, so wait 24 hours. If you can`t apply enough torque when re-installing the cups, go for Italian threads. Cheaper than a re-paint... Cheers, Patrick

[Marcusaurelius]

I would suggest that whoever caused the damage on the bottom bracket should repair the damage. I think just about any tube on a steel frame can be replaced but the costs rises dramatically with which tube is being replaced. I think I paid about $200 to have the top and head tube replaced on a frame made of reynolds 853 (certain tubes can be harder to find than others).

[Dekonick]

What!?! The shop that did this should take care of it. Give the JB weld a shot... you can fix a lot with JB weld.

[AngryScientist]

If it was my bike, I`d clean the BB really well with brake cleaner, then mix up some JB Weld and thouroughly fill the valleys of the threads, covering the peaks a little. Then re-tap. JB WELD gets harder over time, so wait 24 hours. If you can`t apply enough torque when re-installing the cups, go for Italian threads. Cheaper than a re-paint... Cheers, Patrick

+1 to this, and +1 to using an external bearing BB, those shouldnt require a hell of a lot of grip on the threads to do their job.

[bluecsi]

Hi gang,

It's been a long time. I finally have resolution on this matter. After much civil, respectful, polite and good humored discussion, negotiation and thought, I now have in my possession a very lightly used Look 585. Yay. I think the shop handled things wonderfully. The length of time was that has passed was due to my trying to decide what I wanted and me and the shop trying to determine what was fair value. There was no stalling or evasion on their part at all. In fact, the shop raised the fair value considerable after talking directly with Serotta. It's a shame this happened, but i think it was handled as well as could be expected.

Anyway, moving on. This is my first not steel frame ever. I worked in shops when carbon fiber first appeared on the market. We had broken Kestrels and Specialized Allez's all over the place. So that's my frame of reference. I expect this thing to come unraveled any minute now:) Of particular interest are the carbon dropouts on the fork and the hubs and QR used. It's been recommended to use hubs and QR's with smooth clamping surfaces, that makes sense to me. The concern being the knurled surface, over time, can damage the carbon dropout. Anyone have first hand experience with this fork?

I have a thread about wheels here:
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=79107

I'll ask more about the wheels there.

Regarding the CSI. What to do with it? I'm not too interested in building up a second road bike. I have a fixie already. It'd be a horrible shame to use it as a trainer only bike. Selling it with a damaged BB would bring perhaps slightly better that scrap metal value. Any thoughts about what to do with it?

Thanks for all your help in this matter.

Scott

[ultraman6970]

As a couple mentioned, I would go and re tapped that thing in italian. You will be off like 1 mm per side but that's not problem, it will work just fine.

Now the problem is to find somebody with an adjustable tapper because is not just go and stick the italian tapper tool in there. Basically you open it little by little until it almost the size u want and then u use the italian tapper thing.

No idea how you guys do it here in the US, but thats the way we used to do it down there in my home.

Good luck and never go back to that place that did the job.

[Ken Robb]

ATMO there is NOTHING wrong w/square taper crank on Velo Orange BB. Quick, cheap fix. :beer:

[sokyroadie]

ATMO there is NOTHING wrong w/square taper crank on Velo Orange BB. Quick, cheap fix. :beer:

Nothing wrong other than NOT being able to use a Campy crank :) It is for JIS taper.

Jeff

[ultraman6970]

JIS bb works just fine with ISO cranks, that is not the right thing to do?? yes is not the right thing to do but yes it works. Doubt the OP will use the crankset for the next 50 years and will take the crankset OFF 3 times a day for the next 10 years. So once in place just leave it.

Anyhow, if the VO cartridge is not an option I would go tapping that BB to italian. Wonder if the mechanics in the OP area can do it. Some places doesn't even know what italian tapper is.

[ultraman6970]

Gone...