Anti Seize vs. grease

[stackie]

Inspired by Dave Wages' post...

Why not use anti seize instead of grease? This comes after just having to have my fixed gear in for removal of rear cog as I had greased vs. antiseize. Also, just had to really torque off a couple of pedals that had been on for about 6 months with grease. Are there situations to use grease, or could one just use anti-seize for all bolts/threaded situations and seatposts? Leave the grease for ball bearing applications?

thanks,

Jon

[rice rocket]

I use antiseize on things that see way worse conditions (like salt spray for 6 months/year), and it works wonders. I wouldn't use anything else.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31D1N9GE8JL._AA300_.jpg

$8 for a lifetime supply (unless you assemble cars for a living, then you might need two).

[Dave Wages]

You're right, grease is for bearings.

Anti-seize, while it's a bit of a mess to apply, hangs on much better/longer than grease.

[maxdog]

I've never tried Anti-seize. Chemically speaking, what exactly is it?
I have used Phil's waterproof grease, and never had a problem on steel to steel. Are you sure your using enough?

[AngryScientist]

i use marine grade grease on just about everything. the exception is the bottom bracket in my Ti bike, which i will be switching to antisieze this winter.

[97CSI]

I've never tried Anti-seize. Chemically speaking, what exactly is it?
I have used Phil's waterproof grease, and never had a problem on steel to steel. Are you sure your using enough?Generally is a mix of graphite and soft metal flakes (copper, lead, etc.) in a waterproof grease. Mixtures vary by supplier, of course. That said, I've not had any problem with PW grease in 10 years of use. But, will be using anti-seize on the Al BB lock nuts when building up my Ottrott next month. Better safe than sorry.

[rice rocket]

I've never tried Anti-seize. Chemically speaking, what exactly is it?
I have used Phil's waterproof grease, and never had a problem on steel to steel. Are you sure your using enough?
Here's a good info page:

http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm

The use of an anti-seize product is an excellent method of preventing galvanic corrosion, especially in hot, acidic, or caustic environments.
Anti-seize resists galvanic attack by sacrificing the metals in the anti-seize in preference to the metal parts under protection. Use on threaded fasteners to prevent rust and seizing.

Good quality anti-seize has lots of metal (active ingredient) and little grease. This makes it thick and pasty. Since metal is expensive and grease is inexpensive, poor quality anti-seize is often a can of grease with a sprinkling of copper flakes.

This can of Zinc anti-seize from Saf-T-Eze has 43% zinc and conforms to MIL-T-2361.

Contrary to the opinion on the street - copper flakes are not a sign of quality. Copper is an inexpensive filler that often the consumer expects to see.

Zinc rich anti-seize is the best method of preventing corrosion seizing of threaded fasteners under ambient temperature conditions.

* Nickel is the preferred anti-seize for use on stainless steel since nickel prevents stainless galling better than any other anti-seize. Nickel also has the highest temperature rating of any anti-seize.

In ambient temperature and when maximum corrosion resistance is required, Zinc anti-seize is better at preventing corrosion.

And there's a little chart, use nickel for brass, brass vs steel, monel, inconel, titanium, zinc for aluminum vs steel interfaces, and aluminum/graphite for "general purpose" (probably similar to the "carbon paste" you guys buy in bike shops).

[maxdog]

Here's a good info page:

http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm



And there's a little chart, use nickel for brass, brass vs steel, monel, inconel, titanium, zinc for aluminum vs steel interfaces, and aluminum/graphite for "general purpose" (probably similar to the "carbon paste" you guys buy in bike shops).

Thanks Rice and Csi, I'll have to check it out.

[fjaws]

Here's a good info page:

http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm



And there's a little chart, use nickel for brass, brass vs steel, monel, inconel, titanium, zinc for aluminum vs steel interfaces, and aluminum/graphite for "general purpose" (probably similar to the "carbon paste" you guys buy in bike shops).

Nah... most carbon paste has small beads suspended in it. They crush when you tighten the part to give better interference. Almost like putting an ultra-thin shim.

[rice rocket]

My apologies, I remember reading a Zinn article about post greasers too.

Also as word of warning, wear gloves and an old t shirt when using anti seize, unless you want to be tin man for a week. ;)

[PaulE]

I think use of grease on threads and seatposts is an old Euro tradition started before anti-seize existed. If you've ever sworn at frozen brake bleeders in wheel cylinders or brake calipers, or saw a knock-off wire wheel leave the car it belonged to while that car was still moving, you probably learned about anti-seize and use it. :)

[Frankwurst]

[QUOTE=Dave Wages]You're right, grease is for bearings.

Anti-seize, while it's a bit of a mess to apply, hangs on much better/longer than grease.[/QUOTE}

Dave's right. A bit of a mess to apply no matter how careful you might be. Wash behind your ears, in your ears, your nose, eyelids, belly button, and anywhere else you might have touched after the application, ah hell just take a shower, but the stuff works and after you use it a couple of times you'll respect it's tenacious hang on quality. I've used it on bolts and nuts that were exposed to salt water on a regular basis and they still came undone when I wanted. :beer: