SS crank?

[spartacus]

Looking for recommendations for a single speed crank based on the Shimano HTII axle standard. I'm thinking of giving the King ss road hub a go, but am open to other ideas too.

Thank you, Sparts.

[AngryScientist]

i just purchased a sram s300 crank, because i wanted something with an external BB, and this looked reasonable. it hasnt arrived yet, but it looks like a solid piece.

https://store.nexternal.com/reparto/images/sram-s300-single-scrank.jpg

[oldpotatoe]

Looking for recommendations for a single speed crank based on the Shimano HTII axle standard. I'm thinking of giving the King ss road hub a go, but am open to other ideas too.

Thank you, Sparts.

Get any shimano Hollowtech 2 crank, short/track chainring bolts, single ring and bobs yer uncle.

Lots of SS hubs out there....a 'normal' rear hub, with a cog and spacers is nice..

[spartacus]

Get any shimano Hollowtech 2 crank, short/track chainring bolts, single ring and bobs yer uncle.

Lots of SS hubs out there....a 'normal' rear hub, with a cog and spacers is nice..


Do you think a normal rear hub is strong enough? It's always tricky selecting the right rear inch and I tend to go to the higher end of my range so not to spin out too quickly, but at starting off pace the forces are greater and I wonder if they are greater than a normal hub designed for lower geared forces is happy to regularly endure?

My last ss hub was a no name thing that didn't last. The crank was an adapted Chorus. It worked, but I'm starting afresh. :beer:

[oldpotatoe]

Do you think a normal rear hub is strong enough? It's always tricky selecting the right rear inch and I tend to go to the higher end of my range so not to spin out too quickly, but at starting off pace the forces are greater and I wonder if they are greater than a normal hub designed for lower geared forces is happy to regularly endure?

My last ss hub was a no name thing that didn't last. The crank was an adapted Chorus. It worked, but I'm starting afresh. :beer:

??How are theforces 'greater' on a single, one cog hub than one with multiple cogs, starting out?

With a normal hub you can fine tune chainline and it's much easier to find a regular cog than replace a whole SS freewheel.

[spartacus]

??How are theforces 'greater' on a single, one cog hub than one with multiple cogs, starting out?

With a normal hub you can fine tune chainline and it's much easier to find a regular cog than replace a whole SS freewheel.

A King ss hub allows chainline adjustment with spacers. Just sayin' :D

[weatherman]

A King ss hub allows chainline adjustment with spacers. Just sayin' :D

So does a standard hub/wheel and you can then re-use it later on a geared bike if you so choose.

As for cranks--building a new SS now with the SRAM XX cranks and homebrewed components Ti 34T chainring.

Find yourself a nice Boone Ti cog or King cog to set up on that rear hub and you are good to go.

[spartacus]

So does a standard hub/wheel and you can then re-use it later on a geared bike if you so choose.

As for cranks--building a new SS now with the SRAM XX cranks and homebrewed components Ti 34T chainring.

Find yourself a nice Boone Ti cog or King cog to set up on that rear hub and you are good to go.

I have a King cross hub on a wheel. If a choose a King cog how many spacers do I need to fill the spaces either side? :beer:

[weatherman]

I have a King cross hub on a wheel. If a choose a King cog how many spacers do I need to fill the spaces either side? :beer:

Depends on the crank/ring setup you use. Each setup will have its own unique needs. Granted, if you buy one of the "standardized" SS cranksets they probably have a suggested chainline/setup, but if you put together your own unique setup (like I suggested--XX crank arms with a home brewed components chainring), you'll need a tad of experimenting. There are a number of SS conversion kits available that offer a collection of spacers to make things work out--Spot Brand makes a very good one.

Try this: http://spotbrand.com/bikes/product-page/spacer-kits/

[spartacus]

King came back with the answer to my question. They do a spacer kit with their ss cog for their driveshell.

I wonder if the cog is for a narrow road chain? I'd better ask.

[11.4]

King came back with the answer to my question. They do a spacer kit with their ss cog for their driveshell.

I wonder if the cog is for a narrow road chain? I'd better ask.

Yes it is. Actually, it's for a traditional 3/32" chain such as a Shimano HG-91 (probably the best 3/32" chain ever made). It isn't for a 1/8" track chain. You can arguably use a track chain on it, but the chain does shift back and forth a bit and on the track, we've had enough failures of 1/8" chains on 3/32" cogs.

Why go to such odd equipment, though? Nobody has a better single speed rear-end solution than White Industries' freewheels (not only a single but also a trials version and then their duo for the most versatility). On the front, it's just hipster fads to go with one of the funky single-speed cranksets. Note that many of them don't support standard track chainline so you end up having to make fixes in the rear. Yes, you can use a road-line single-speed crankset with a King rear single-speed hub and just adjust everything to suit, but you are working around a non-standard spec and will always be having to decide whether you can fit a particular wheel or cog you're interested in.

[spartacus]

Yes it is. Actually, it's for a traditional 3/32" chain such as a Shimano HG-91 (probably the best 3/32" chain ever made). It isn't for a 1/8" track chain. You can arguably use a track chain on it, but the chain does shift back and forth a bit and on the track, we've had enough failures of 1/8" chains on 3/32" cogs.

Why go to such odd equipment, though? Nobody has a better single speed rear-end solution than White Industries' freewheels (not only a single but also a trials version and then their duo for the most versatility). On the front, it's just hipster fads to go with one of the funky single-speed cranksets. Note that many of them don't support standard track chainline so you end up having to make fixes in the rear. Yes, you can use a road-line single-speed crankset with a King rear single-speed hub and just adjust everything to suit, but you are working around a non-standard spec and will always be having to decide whether you can fit a particular wheel or cog you're interested in.

What is your equipment recommendation? :beer:

[11.4]

Practical?

Sugino 75 crankarms with a Phil Wood basic stainless bottom bracket (so you can adjust chainline and never have to deal with a bottom bracket before you die), Phil Wood low flange hubs (so you never have to deal with them again), White Industries freewheel (see below), and a basic BMX chain if 1/8", otherwise a HG-91 Shimano chain.

On the freewheel, you can do the single-cog freewheel or get the Duo, which has two cogs set close together on one freewheel body (typically a 17/19 or 16/18 pairing). This gives you two gears without having to screw around. All White freewheels are 3/32", and you frankly don't need a 1/8" chain on a SS, so I'd just not sweat it.

If you really want to do power workouts on the bike (and I mean serious power workouts), then ditch the freewheel anyway and go to a 1/8" fixed cog.

You can go to almost any other square-taper or Octalink track crankset if you prefer. I don't recommend the Truvativ Omnium because the outboard bearings are not really any better and the chainline and chainring bolts both give you fits, and the bottom bracket isn't great. And you'd likely have to get a different chainring anyway, which makes it more expensive.

Be sure you get a 3/32" chainring if going with the White freewheels so everything is as smooth and quiet as possible. You'll be using a 144 BCD chainring but almost all chainrings come in both 1/8" and 3/32"; just be sure you're getting the latter. Check eBay -- there are a fair number for sale right now BNIB, and cheap.

General rule: Try to avoid all the non-standard designs (Miche cranks, Miche hubs, King single-speed hubs, yada yada). You are always struggling to find equipment or paying more for it, and the non-standard stuff is worth a lot less if you sell it down the road. And most of it has chainline problems or other issues. The standard is a standard for a reason.