Campy cables install

[maxdog]

All of my builds, rebuilds and upgrades for the last two decades have been Dura-Ace. I'm presently working on a Record gruppo. Although i consider Campy to be superior to Shimano, I must say, it's more of a pain in the a. After installing all the components, (could they have put the brifter clamp bolts in a less accessible place? probably.), I'm ready to install the cables. The instructions say to cut the housing on the end without caps. They claim this end will have Campy printed twice. Neither of these criteria exist.

Can any of the experienced Campy -files here lend me some assistance. Thanks.

[Jeff N.]

I've always cut housing (Campy OR Dura Ace) at the end opposite to where the writing is because the writing ( not sure what "end caps" you're talking about) will show once the build is complete rather than be wrapped under the bar tape. But I don't think there's any set rule as to which end you cut, other than that particular aesthetic aspect.

[thwart]

In most recent Campy cable sets I've seen, the 2 'precut' derailleur cable housings (which are meant to run from the ergos to the downtube or headtube cable stops) have an end cap already crimped on. Cut the opposite end to size for your bike... and the crimped end is the one that inserts into the ergolever.

[maxdog]

I've always cut housing (Campy OR Dura Ace) at the end opposite to where the writing is because the writing ( not sure what "end caps" you're talking about) will show once the build is complete rather than be wrapped under the bar tape. But I don't think there's any set rule as to which end you cut, other than that particular aesthetic aspect.

The instructions claim there is a cap on one end of the housing. They also claim the Campy is printed twice on one end of the housing. Neither is the case. The indication is that the housing is directional. The housing has writing on both ends in a symmetrical fashion.

[maxdog]

In most recent Campy cable sets I've seen, the 2 'precut' derailleur cable housings (which are meant to run from the ergos to the downtube or headtube cable stops) have an end cap already crimped on. Cut the opposite end to size for your bike.

Unfortunately, no end caps. Any other ideas? Are the housings directional?

[thwart]

Sounds like an older cable kit with 'new' directions, unfortunately. In that case I would let aesthetics rule, as Jeff has outlined above.

[maxdog]

Sounds like an older cable kit with 'new' directions, unfortunately. In that case I would let aesthetics rule, as Jeff has outlined above.


The housings are symmetrically printed so aesthetics is not an issue. I just want to make sure there are no other issues. Are you sure the housings are not directional? Btw, thanks for your timely responses.

[thwart]

With those older kits I do not think directionality is important. I've never had any trouble with my builds doing things that way.

That said, 'old potatoe' and 'Dave' know much more Campy stuff than I... ;)

And I should also mention this all refers to 9 and 10 speed builds. The routing, end cap use, and housing size are different with 11 speed.

[maxdog]

With those older kits I do not think directionality is important. I've never had any trouble with my builds doing things that way.

That said, 'old potatoe' and 'Dave' know much more Campy stuff than I... ;)

And I should also mention this all refers to 9 and 10 speed builds. The routing, end cap use, and housing size are different with 11 speed.

Thanks. This is a Record 11 group.

[jlwdm]

No ferrules for 11 spd.

Jeff

[gone]

My recollection (it's been a while) is that:

The instructions are wrong, they are exactly backwards.
It does matter which way they're installed, one end has lubricant in it. You can find out which by inserting a cable part way in and pulling it back out. The end with the lube goes nearest the brifter.

Agree about the clamp bolts. Even worse, they're torx after about a million years of being an allen head bolt and the instructions don't say what size.

They're great once you get 'em installed though.

[maxdog]

My recollection (it's been a while) is that:

The instructions are wrong, they are exactly backwards.
It does matter which way they're installed, one end has lubricant in it. You can find out which by inserting a cable part way in and pulling it back out. The end with the lube goes nearest the brifter.

Agree about the clamp bolts. Even worse, they're torx after about a million years of being an allen head bolt and the instructions don't say what size.

They're great once you get 'em installed though.

Thanks for the advice. The instructions refer to the lube, and that sounds like a good plan to ascertain which end it's in.

i fully agree with the other part of your response as well.

[Dekonick]

I think the torx is supposed to prevent the bolt from stripping... so it is an improvement... but a PITA...

[oldpotatoe]

All of my builds, rebuilds and upgrades for the last two decades have been Dura-Ace. I'm presently working on a Record gruppo. Although i consider Campy to be superior to Shimano, I must say, it's more of a pain in the a. After installing all the components, (could they have put the brifter clamp bolts in a less accessible place? probably.), I'm ready to install the cables. The instructions say to cut the housing on the end without caps. They claim this end will have Campy printed twice. Neither of these criteria exist.

Can any of the experienced Campy -files here lend me some assistance. Thanks.

2009 Record or older, 2008?

2009, newest shape ERGO uses 4mm DER housing and NO ferrules into the levers(don't fit anyway). 2008, rounded top ERGO uses the older, 4.5mm Campagnolo housing OR 5mm( preferred by me) and DOES use a ferrule in the ERGO lever but neither use a ferrule into the lever for the brake housing. You CAN use 4mm housing(WITH a ferrules) for 2008 and older levers but 5mm is the best, IMO.

[oldpotatoe]

I think the torx is supposed to prevent the bolt from stripping... so it is an improvement... but a PITA...

Yep, lots of aluminum bolts and Torx..common on shimano also.

[maxdog]

2009 Record or older, 2008?

2009, newest shape ERGO uses 4mm DER housing and NO ferrules into the levers(don't fit anyway). 2008, rounded top ERGO uses the older, 4.5mm Campagnolo housing OR 5mm( preferred by me) and DOES use a ferrule in the ERGO lever but neither use a ferrule into the lever for the brake housing. You CAN use 4mm housing(WITH a ferrules) for 2008 and older levers but 5mm is the best, IMO.

I purchased this new, as 2010 Record 11. The cable package included with my gruppo is labeled as;

Campagnolo
original spare parts
ultra-low friction cables and casings
for ultr-shift ergopower control levers

part# 1134600s

The instructions list the housings as 4.1 mm(der.) and 5mm(brake) if i can believe them.
Thanks.

[oldpotatoe]

I purchased this new, as 2010 Record 11. The cable package included with my gruppo is labeled as;

Campagnolo
original spare parts
ultra-low friction cables and casings
for ultr-shift ergopower control levers

part# 1134600s

The instructions list the housings as 4.1 mm(der.) and 5mm(brake) if i can believe them.
Thanks.

Otay, then no ferrules into the lever for either the der or brake housing. Be careful of the wee brass washer in the lever for the der housing that serves as a 'ferrule'. They can and do fall out. I find that routing the housing behind the habr makes for better shifting. Also make the ends as flat as possible, I use a grinder.

[Dave]

Unfortunately, Campy didn't correct their cabling instructions for a very long time. The newer cablesets for 2009+ shifters have no ferrules on the ends and it doesn't matter which end of the cable housing is used at the ergo body (AFAIK).

Regarding the band clamp nut, it's actually very easy to access with the right tool - a T25 screwdriver or T-handle driver. All you have to do is slip it under the hood from the front. It helps to pull the brake hood forward, from the back edge to reveal the torx head, so you can visually direct the end of the driver.

The trickiest part it getting the cable over the small plastic guide under the brake hood and into the tiny hole just ahead of the cable housing. I use something like a 2mm hex wrench to push the cable down and align it with the hole. Another option is to make a large loop and just poke the end into the hole, but it will create a kink in the cable when it's pulled tightly over the guide. That kink will need to be carefully straightened out, unless it's carefully made in some area where there is no housing, or at the end, when it will be cut off.

[maxdog]

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Just to make sure I understand. This cable kit I've got is standard issue and I should just cut off the ferrule ends and not worry about which end of the housing is lubricated or cut. Is that correct?

[Jeff N.]

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Just to make sure I understand. This cable kit I've got is standard issue and I should just cut off the ferrule ends and not worry about which end of the housing is lubricated or cut. Is that correct?
I'd say YES, that's correct. I agree with Dave above, re: feeding the cable through the microscopic hole(s). PITA. To add to that, there are these tiny little brass washers inside those ports that are apparently for added housing support. They fall out easily during installation...fun crawling around the garage retrieving one. Campy...gotta love those sadistic guys. :o Jeff N.

[Dave]

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Just to make sure I understand. This cable kit I've got is standard issue and I should just cut off the ferrule ends and not worry about which end of the housing is lubricated or cut. Is that correct?


If you got a cable kit with ferrules on one end of the housing, try inserting the other end into the ergo body, or verify that the diameter is NOT the old larger 4.5mm housing. If it is, you have the wrong cableset.

The new cable housings should have ultra low friction written on them. If they don't, then you have the wrong cable set.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Just to make sure I understand. This cable kit I've got is standard issue and I should just cut off the ferrule ends and not worry about which end of the housing is lubricated or cut. Is that correct?

If you have ferrules crimped on the der housing and have 2011 Record, YOU HAVE THE WRONG CABLE KIT. 4.5mm housing, not the appropriate 4mm UT housing.

[jlwdm]

Maxdog

I thought you earlier said there were no ferrules.

Jeff

[maxdog]

Maxdog

I thought you earlier said there were no ferrules.

Jeff


You are correct, there are no ferrules. That was a mis-communication. My mistake.

Thanks again to everyone who responded, I really appreciate it. And now off to finish the installation.

[campy man]

The trickiest part it getting the cable over the small plastic guide under the brake hood and into the tiny hole just ahead of the cable housing. I use something like a 2mm hex wrench to push the cable down and align it with the hole. Another option is to make a large loop and just poke the end into the hole, but it will create a kink in the cable when it's pulled tightly over the guide. That kink will need to be carefully straightened out, unless it's carefully made in some area where there is no housing, or at the end, when it will be cut off.

Been looking to solve this problem for years ... Thanks Paceline :beer:

[ultraman6970]

Campagnolo a PITA??? Shimano users always say that :) but if you look, campagnolo mechanics cry a lot less than shimano ones :P

[oldpotatoe]

Campagnolo a PITA??? Shimano users always say that :) but if you looks campagnolo mechanics cry a lot less than shimano ones :P

Very true.

Strung der cables thru 6700/7900/6800/5800/9000!levers then...doh!!