I need a winter list!

[Secosera]

Hi all,

Well, after living in Florida all my life, I'm finally moving somewhere that has actual winters. My dilemma now is...clothing! I have no idea what is good or what I'll need (besides the basics ie. jacket, tights, underlayers).

What jackets should I look at for temps in the 20-40f range? Which socks, shoecovers, and gloves should I look at? What about protection for the head and face? Any help would be great!

Regards,
Sean

[AngryScientist]

Seans List:

1) trainer
2) fun dvds
:D

[achurch]

Legs:
knee warmers, full leg warmers, full length bibs--one with no windblock one with windblock

shoes-
light covers, full booties, second pair one size larger for warm socks

top:
vest, long shirts, jacket w/windblock

gloves, light pair, heavier pair, one pair lightliners

head:
windblock cap only
windblock full balaclava

Core:
baselayers, merino wool short and long sleeve, various weights

Depending on the temp some combination here keeps me riding comfortably from 45 - 15 degrees. Below 20/25 15, it needs to be sunny, relatively windless and I just climb.

Fom Montreal (where most people take four months and ride indoors, but some of us continue to play outside all winter long)

PS good lights, a cross bike and winter tires as well

[Secosera]

Thanks!

Any preferred brands you'd recommend?

As for the trainer, I have rollers already. I can't last more than 45 minutes on them without losing what sanity I have left =P

[bobswire]

Hi all,

Well, after living in Florida all my life, I'm finally moving somewhere that has actual winters. My dilemma now is...clothing! I have no idea what is good or what I'll need (besides the basics ie. jacket, tights, underlayers).

What jackets should I look at for temps in the 20-40f range? Which socks, shoecovers, and gloves should I look at? What about protection for the head and face? Any help would be great!

Regards,
Sean

Stay where you are,winter is not worth the it besides you'll need more closet space. :D

[AngryScientist]

Thanks!

Any preferred brands you'd recommend?



craft and rapha baselayers are some of the best out there, the merino wool stuff is really the bees knees.

my strategy for the winter is layers, layer, layers.

a good cycling winter jacket is a very pricey item, instead, i like to layer up underneath with a good wool baselayer, and various over items, depending on the temp, with a windproof front light jacket overtop of everything.

you need to consider how cold you're willing to ride in, and go from there.

for me, the toes and fingers are the first to go in the cold, so i buy the best gloves and shoe covers i can find.

secondary to that are keeping my "core" warm, a light hat to cover the head and ears is usually sufficient for me down to the 30's.

[dogdriver]

Pugsley.

You don't need the expensive clothes because you're going so freakin' slow and it solves the "sanity on the trainer" issue.

[Chris]

What size do you wear? I am cleaning out some drawers and if you are the right size, I might have a vest and windjacket I could send your way.

[Secosera]

Stay where you are,winter is not worth the it besides you'll need more closet space. :D

Haha,
Not much of a choice I'm afraid. Besides, it gets kinda boring riding flat terrain almost every day.

craft and rapha baselayers are some of the best out there, the merino wool stuff is really the bees knees.

my strategy for the winter is layers, layer, layers.

a good cycling winter jacket is a very pricey item, instead, i like to layer up underneath with a good wool baselayer, and various over items, depending on the temp, with a windproof front light jacket overtop of everything.

you need to consider how cold you're willing to ride in, and go from there.

for me, the toes and fingers are the first to go in the cold, so i buy the best gloves and shoe covers i can find.

secondary to that are keeping my "core" warm, a light hat to cover the head and ears is usually sufficient for me down to the 30's.

Thanks for the info. I've got some windproof gloves and shoe covers for when it got "cold" down here, but they probably won't be good enough for real cold temperatures.
As for how cold I'm willing to ride in, I can't say yet. I've chose a rainy 50f degree day to ride over my rollers though and will probably do the same with the cold =P

What size do you wear? I am cleaning out some drawers and if you are the right size, I might have a vest and windjacket I could send your way.

Thanks! PM sent.

[veloduffer]

A good jacket for winter is a rain jacket with zips for ventilation. You can wear almost anything else underneath - it doesn't have to be cycling specific (eg Lands End or LL Bean thermals). You should be a bit cold when you start a ride, as you'll warm up quickly.

You can wear rainpants over tights or get heavy winter tights. Over the years, I found the Performance Triflex winter tights to work great and are a real bargain ($69.99) compared to other brands. Get the ones without a chamois so you can wear your shorts underneath for an additional layer.

On your head, I prefer a cotton cycling cap underneath my helmet, but I have lots of hair to keep me warm. A helmet cover is good and something for your ears, if you need it. There are some jerseys that have hoods built in and I found they are very good on really cold days (20 degrees).

You might need two pair - one that has fingers for 35 degrees and warmer and lobster style gloves for anything colder.

If you can afford winter shoes, Shimano and Lake make excellent winter shoes. Lake makes a few and the more expensive ones are heavy duty but work well & universally praised. You can add neoprene booties on top. For warmer temps (35-40s), you can wear covers that are fleece lined.

Expect your riding performance to be well off your summer riding. With all the clothing and your body working to keep you warm plus harder breathing, you shouldn't expect to be very fast and concentrate on aerobic rather than anaerobic.

Even with all the gear, I usually last about 2 hrs max in the 20 degree days on the road.

[dekindy]

I rarely find a jacket applicable unless it is arctic temperatures outside. See warm natured disclaimer.

Think blocking the wind as your philosophy.

I am warmer blooded than most and usually wear a layer less than everyone else unless it it arctic cold. As a result I will not reference temperatures except in reference to protecting your knees. However here are the levels.

When it starts getting cooler you will need knee warmers when the temperatures are below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Knees are easily damaged from the cold, so protect them whether they feel cold or not. Embrocation is an option but messy and you want to make certain you apply it after chamois cream has been applied if you get my drift.

Next you will need a headband, arm warmers, leg warmers, wind covers for your shoes, wool socks, and light gloves(if you go with a 2-glove winter system the inner glove works). Also a polypro long sleeve shirt is applicable. Another handy item is a windblock undergarment. This can be a special long sleeve shirt with windblock, like Craft offers. However a base layer bib is more versatile. I have this one and Defeet and Sugoi make them.
http://weatherwarrior.com/

If you are warm-natured like me, you will be surprised how far this will take you into cold weather.

Beyond the above, I recommend balaclavas, long sleeve wind block jerseys, bib tights without chamois, and full shoe covers and an insulated insole. Winter specific shoes are prefereable to covering your road shoes. I also recommend a wind block oversock to go over shoe covers or winter specific shoes/boots. Feet were the most difficult for me to keep warm. I found that layering is applicable to feet also. A wind vest is also a good item to have and can be worn over a summer or winter jersey.

One thing that I might do differently is get a cycling cap with ear flaps and use a separate neck covering. Also leg gators are a good option.

Think layering and separates (hat and gator instead of balaclave, inner glove and outer glove combo) as being both warmer and more versatile.

Some of my buddies use chemical warmers for hand and feet.

Don't skimp on quality and price. You want technical clothing that lets moisture evaporate.

Don't overlook wool.

I agree with Veloduffer and my bicycling buddies would echo the opinion that beyond 2 hours it gets tough.

My initial problem was that I listened to everyone else and as a result was overdressed and sweated a lot the first winter that I rode. Keep records of temperature(wind chill) and cycling effort and you will learn how to dress for your needs. Gauging how fast or slow you will ride when going with a group is a huge part of the equation.

Take most of your clothes with you. You can always leave them in the car.

Be prepared to take clothes on the ride or be able to shed them during a ride if necessary. Many folks start out overdressed so they will not be cold initially and then stop after a few miles and take clothes off. Be prepared to start out cold and then warm up if you do not follow this strategy.

[DRZRM]

Lake CXZ302 Winter road shoes get me through most winter rides with snug and toasty feet, which is the most important thing to me. Keep an eye on Bonktown for good deals on wool gear, I've been wearing Swobo wool knickers (past the knee) and have some good Pearl Isumi wind/water proof tights for when it gets below freezing. I have a bunch of wool jerseys too, many came from Bonktown. I have two different weights Descent gloves, and I'll need to replace my really warm lobster gloves for the coldest days. I layer Smartwool and Icebreaker base layers as needed and I have a Descent Element jacket that I use with layers underneath. I'd say the most umportant thing to invest in is winter shoes, I was never warm enough in wind covers.

[veloduffer]

I've been thinking about adding one of those small Carradice type saddle bags to my bike for the winter to shed clothes off and on.

Also, try not to make any stops (food, drink) for the ride. You'll get warm and sweat inside, and freeze like hell when you get back on the bike (besides being stiff). Better to do a short trip and get refreshments at the end.

[onekgguy]

Haha,

Thanks for the info. I've got some windproof gloves and shoe covers for when it got "cold" down here, but they probably won't be good enough for real cold temperatures.
As for how cold I'm willing to ride in, I can't say yet. I've chose a rainy 50f degree day to ride over my rollers though and will probably do the same with the cold =P


Do I understand you correctly that you don't intend to ride below 50f? Knee warmers, and a very light base layer for your upper body are all you're going to need extra.

You should be a little chilled to begin the ride. If you're not, you're overdressed. A few miles in and you'll be just fine.

Kevin g

[rugbysecondrow]

Running shoes

[Clydesdale]

Check sierra trading post for great deals on tights and poly-propylene tops. They rate them by temp and you can cover a huge temperature range by buying a few different ones to layer when needed.

The high end jackets are awesome but you can get by with a wind jacket over extra layers for the most part.

Good tights are a must, fleece lined work well and bonktown has some good prices on bib tights if you can catch them. The nice thing about tights with a chamois is you get to eliminate cycling shorts as a separate layer. If you are in slushy snow a set of rain pants is helpful. PI makes some nice warm weather tights (amfib are very warm) and definitely check out Craft's line of cycling and skiing pants (their wind tights are great!)

Don't skimp on shoes or covers and gloves. Nothing ruins a ride like frozen hands or feet.

Start with the basics and add to them as you get a feel for being out there.
Good luck.

[Johny]

Where are you moving to? Maybe local forumites will give you more specific suggestions. Not every winter is created equally (neither as every man). Some places may have seemingly higher temperature but high wind which could actually make your body temperature drop quickly.

To me:
Windblocker jackets/tights, wool base layers, wool socks, Lake winter shoes, wool balaclava/hats, and skiing gloves are a must for rides more than an hour below 10F with -15F windchill.

[Johny]

If moving to an icy place, studded tires can save your life (still need to slow down and pay a lot of attention when you turn). I commute on mountain bike/Nokian 296's in the winter.

[wgp]

Read this discussion on winter jackets, just started last week. Good info and I added a link near the end of the thread to some previous threads on winter jackets.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=81299&highlight=winter+jackets

This thread covers winter shoes, also a must depending on temps:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=81299&highlight=winter+jackets

[drewski]

Protect the extremeties.

Your enemies are moisture and wind. I have really enjoyed riding
old beater mountain bicycle during blizzards in NYC.

The more wool the better. Check thrift stores in nice neighborhoods.
Italian, Australian, New Z. are personal faves. Brooks Brothers
not the leather seat manufacturer from England manufacturer are also nice.
I used to wear poly pro base layers but I find the wool is much more
comfy on longer rides.

IHO i do not advise buying acrylic sweaters. They
don't breathe well. I have taken wool Brooks and made my own arm warmers as well.

I have a couple of Woolistic short sleeve jerseys which are beautiful
but very pricey. You get what you pay for.

I have IBEX tights which have a wool posterior which is nice.
Front is windproof. I also love my IBEX arm warmers.

Rapha has a 8 panel Belgian Hat for those days when its cold.
There is a guy on Ebay who sells this for $29.00
with free shipping from Canada. Everywhere else its $40.00.
I also wear a neck gator if it gets too cold and need to cover up
me mug.

When I rode my mountain bike in the snow if I stayed out for
2-3 hours my feet would get numb even if i wore neoprene booties.
So be prepared to spend some time to get acclimated.
If all else fails buy some of those small heating pads they
sell in camping stores that heat up when they make contact
with air.

A good set of metail fenders with mud flaps can't be beat as well.
Nothing worse than kicking up we slushy water on your posterior.

Don't forget lights and to use some kind of lip balm to prevent chapped
lips. I have never tried embrocation but it seems to be a like a great idea.

I am kind of cheap when it comes to jackets. I really crave a IBEX
wool jacket. I wear old Descente one which does the job but its
a bit too warm for long rides.

Andrew

[Ti Designs]

I've seen countless discussions on winter clothing, the one conclusion I've come to is that I couldn't tell good info from bad. Come to think of it, the same thing could be said for advice you get at the bike shop. Winter clothing is another one of those cases where everybody thinks they know something. Of all the people giving advice, a very small percentage of them are out on cold days - those are the people you want to ask. Keep in mind that a lot of winter clothing is personal preference or is based on your needs or your body. For example, I get away with the Specialized Defroster road shoe, DeFeet Blaze socks and a bootie down to 15F degrees for 4 hours. My girlfriend uses the same socks, the Lake boots and toe warmers at 30F. Clearly, what works for me doesn't work for her. Find a few people in your area who ride all winter, and be specific as to how or where they ride. I train all winter, I'm not the person to ask about stuff for commuting 'cause that's not what I'm doing.

If you're moving to the Boston/Cambridge area, give me a shout. Getting set up for winter biking gets damn expensive if you get it wrong. It's best to start off when it's not too cold and figure out what needs to be added. If you get the layering right, what works for cool weather can also be part of the answer in what works when it gets really cold. Starting early will also tell you where your problem areas are, which may keep you from overspending. Nothing worse than spending a fortune on gloves only to find out that you have good circulation and what you own is too warm.

[93legendti]

I've seen countless discussions on winter clothing, the one conclusion I've come to is that I couldn't tell good info from bad. Come to think of it, the same thing could be said for advice you get at the bike shop. Winter clothing is another one of those cases where everybody thinks they know something. Of all the people giving advice, a very small percentage of them are out on cold days - those are the people you want to ask. Keep in mind that a lot of winter clothing is personal preference or is based on your needs or your body. For example, I get away with the Specialized Defroster road shoe, DeFeet Blaze socks and a bootie down to 15F degrees for 4 hours. My girlfriend uses the same socks, the Lake boots and toe warmers at 30F. Clearly, what works for me doesn't work for her. Find a few people in your area who ride all winter, and be specific as to how or where they ride. I train all winter, I'm not the person to ask about stuff for commuting 'cause that's not what I'm doing.

If you're moving to the Boston/Cambridge area, give me a shout. Getting set up for winter biking gets damn expensive if you get it wrong. It's best to start off when it's not too cold and figure out what needs to be added. If you get the layering right, what works for cool weather can also be part of the answer in what works when it gets really cold. Starting early will also tell you where your problem areas are, which may keep you from overspending. Nothing worse than spending a fortune on gloves only to find out that you have good circulation and what you own is too warm.
Listen to Ti D re: winter biking. He's posted several times about base layers and winter layering - it's worth searching for his posts.

[Bob Loblaw]

I live in Connecticut and ride a lot of cold weather miles, typically 250 - 400 road miles a month Dec - March. There are a couple of things that haven't been suggested here.

Avoid metal cleats. The bottom of your foot is the area of your body that's hardest to protect, and you'll struggle with cold tootsies. A metal cleat conducts a lot more heat than a plastic one. I switched to Keos from Time MTB, and the difference was huge. Someone mentioned oversize shoes to accommodate heavy wool socks which is a good idea, but be aware that too heavy of a sock can actually restrict your circulation and make your feet feel colder.

When it's what I consider quite cold (single digits F), I break out plain old heavyweight LL Bean fleece and wear it under my windbreaker and over a long sleeved jersey. I sometimes get frozen sweat between the fleece and windbreaker, but I have never felt cold dressed like that.

Layer up in your legs. I bought a pair of size XL leg warmers I can wear over regular road tights and under a pair of windproof rain pants. Works great when the temperatures are dire.

BL

[jlwdm]

So why are all you guys that don't ride in cold weather giving advice on cold weather gear?

I actually thought you guys did ride in cold weather from reading your posts. Foolish me.

Jeff

[weisan]

Right clothing aside, the next best thing you can do is to get your body to acclimatize to the new "norm." Get out there and ride with "as little clothing" as possible while it's getting cooler and cooler. You would feel chilly at first but over time, you will get "stronger" and better able to handle the cold when the real cold sets in. I am speaking from experience as someone who had moved from Texas to St. Louis almost 3 years ago.

Because of the progressive adaptation, I can ride in shorts, a wool jersey and a PI wind vest and still feel relative comfortable in the low 50s when others are wrapped in a cocoon. The point is to avoid under-dress as much as over-dress, both can lead to discomfort and restrict your movement.