Transferring seat height/tilt from one bike to another??

[Kingfisher]

What are you guys doing/using when you get a new bike and want to transfer the exact measurements, ie seat height/tilt, etc.?

[Ken Robb]

I just set the saddle height and bar height and go for a ride, see how it feels, make adjustments, go for a ride, etc.

There are enough variables like angles, stay length, etc. in my collection to make trying to get the fit perfect by measuring too difficult for me to get right.

[Pete Serotta]

I just set the saddle height and bar height and go for a ride, see how it feels, make adjustments, go for a ride, etc.

There are enough variables like angles, stay length, etc. in my collection to make trying to get the fit perfect by measuring too difficult for me to get right.


Ken's way is the best way I have found for myself also. PETE

[akelman]

I'm with Ken: my bikes are different enough that measurements can be somewhat misleading. That said, I know my saddle height, the drop I prefer, and the reach that works for me. I try to get those right and then begin riding. If my hip hurts, my saddle is too high. If my knee aches, it's too low. If my shoulder and elbow begin to lock up, my reach is a bit long. Etc. Getting old is fun!

[veloduffer]

I check the saddle height (bb to middle of saddle) and then saddle setback (lineup a yardstick that intersects middle of saddle and then measure the distance to bottom bracket).

Next I set the bar height to desired level (drop from saddle to bar) and measure reach (middle of saddle to handlebar). I make adjustments to reach by the stem length.

I've got six bikes and they are all set the same way. I find that if I don't do this, my lower back becomes an issue after 20 miles.

[Louis]

For me saddle pitch angle (aka tilt) is the easiest one of all.

1) It's super-easy to do it on a Thomson because a) you just loosen one screw and tighten the other, and b) the scale makes it easy to figure out how far you've gone.

2) After setting it up at the beginning using a level sitting on a ruler and comparing bubble positions to my other bikes, I can usually home in on what feels good in a few minutes, then I take the Allen wrench along on my next ride and tweak as required if I messed up. I suppose I could also use my Wixey (http://www.wixey.com/anglegauge/index.html) digital angle gauge.

http://www.wixey.com/anglegauge/images/easy02.jpg

[93legendti]

I have a Serotta XY Tool. At the bottom of the XY Tool is a bolt that fits in the crank bolt.
Once the saddle is level, I have it set so the underside of the "T" touches the top of the saddle.
You could make your own with 2 yard sticks connected at the right seat height and use it to check new saddle set ups.

Saddle fore/aft placement I can approximate based upon the angle of the new bike compared to the old bike. On my new Casseroll I actually nailed the fore/aft adjustment when I atatched it to the post (Luck!). Usually I have to adjust the saddle back or forward 2-3 x on the first ride.

[RPS]

What are you guys doing/using when you get a new bike and want to transfer the exact measurements, ie seat height/tilt, etc.?
For the three variables:

1) In case your two bikes don’t have the same length cranks, I’d first measure from the pedal (with the crank down and parallel to the seat tube) to the mid point of the saddle. That should get height fairly close.

2) Using a level, vertical line on a wall, or other vertical point of reference I set the tip of the saddle the same distance behind the bottom bracket. If you make a major change then repeat step one above.

3) The tilt for me is easy because I keep all saddles level. A light board, book, or anything flat on the saddle and level works for me there.


Then I do what Ken said. Go for a ride and adjust as needed. ;)

[Dave]

Saddle fore/aft position is done with a plumb bob. Set the nose the same distance behind the center of the BB. Place a piece of masking tape on the crank arm and mark increments like 6cm, 7cm, as appropriate.

As for height, it's much more accurate to measure saddle height to a sharp edge rather than eyeball across the top. Pick something like the lower edge of the saddle or perhaps the center of the saddle rails. As for tilt, that's simple, if you have a method of measuring established. Setting the saddle level may work for flat saddles, but may not for those that are curved from front to back. With the curved Fizik Gobi that I use, I place a torpedo level on the tail and set the nose about 1cm lower, by holding the level in a true level position and measuring the 1cm drop near the nose.

Use the same saddle model on all bikes; otherwise none of the measurements will be the same.

The final step is going on a ride. I can tell quickly if something is off.

[martinrjensen]

the key is to have the same saddles on all your bikes. if you don't you just really have to try it and see as people have mentioned. With identical saddles, it's pretty easy to use a ruler and drop string to make sure that all the contact points match up.

[dookie]

for the truly OCD (me!), a laser plumb/level makes precision measurements way easier.

[jlwdm]

Dave, +1.

I also have the same saddles, pedals and crank arm length on all three bikes.

Jeff

[Ken Robb]

None of my bikes are similar and different saddles and bars work better on some than others. I used to have some bikes that were very similar but I decided that didn't make sense as I was running out of garage space.

[Birddog]

I've found that the easist way to transfer fore/aft dimensions on a bicycle is to use a 48" drywall square. You don't have to wait for a plumb bob to quit swinging to and fro and you can transfer the numbers even if you are on a sloping surface. BTW, if you have an attached garage, you likiely have a sloping surface. The squares cost about $10/12 at any big box bldg center.
http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/328/32816_300.jpg

[champ]

Assuming you are using the same saddle on the new bike you should know your saddle setback and height on the existing bike. I use the center of the BB shell for height to the top of the saddle, measured parallel to the seat tube and to the top of the middle of the saddle. For setback you can use a plumb line or a laser level from Home Depot - run a string parallel/level to the ground between the seatpost and head tube, mark the string at the center bb and at the tip of the saddle using the laser or plumb line where it intersects the level line. The difference in the marks is your setback and can be replicated on any bike provided the seat rails allow enough adjustment. Aside from that the cockpit measurement, fork rake, seat and head angles all can impact the effective length of your reach from bike to bike so that has to be considered after the setback and saddle height have been established.

[sixfootbrit]

If you are using the same saddle on both, then plumb and level.