Single Speed Conversions...

[veggieburger]

Does anyone here speak single speed? If not, and good recommendations for SS forums?

My confusion is the rear wheel. I have a 126mm spaced steel road frame and I'd like to slap on a rear fixed gear wheel. What is the rear spacing of those things? Do they have some sort of device to make sure your chain line is proper?

Thanks!

[RADaines]

Should be some useful info here:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html

[dimsy]

track bikes generally have a spacing of 120mm, unless it's an urban conversion of sorts which is what i believe you're going for. white industries makes their eno hub in 126mm. worst case scenario you could use a 130mm spaced hub and just pull the dropouts apart when installing the wheel. i had a full geared setup done like that and had no issues with it.

[markie]

If it is a normal steel frame (not Reynolds 753) then as already suggested you will be able to squeeze in or clamp down on a 130mm or 120mm hub. If the frame is nice you could hunt down a 126mm hub or have it cold set to the new spacing. Or you could use some washers as spacers on most hubs.

As for chainline, well it depends on you frame, but for the most part it is likely that a road-double will give you a pretty good chainline with the chainring in either the inner or outer position.

For my conversions I tend to just use the original road-bike crankset (if it does not have pinned and ramped rings) and its smaller 39 or 42 tooth inside chainring.

[veggieburger]

Interesting...Ok, so I can use a current set of road cranks. That's good news. Now to hunt down some wheels.

[markie]

I would not used a ramped or pinned ring if I could help it, but yea, the original cranks and BB are a great place to start.

[Bob Loblaw]

My single speed is also a vintage frame with 126 rear spacing. I used a modern road wheel with a freehub and 130 mm spacing.

To set it up as a single speed, I went to the LBS and talked him out of about eight or nine spacers from some used up cassettes he was about to toss, and then a fifteen tooth cog from same. I wanted to do it on the cheap because I would be using it as my winter trainer/rain bike.

The row of spacers makes it easy to set the chainline. It works great and parts are easy to find.

For the front, I use a regular double crank. If you want to run a single chainring, you need need to get single speed chainring bolts because the nuts have to be shallower.

I dug around for a picture but I don't have one. I could take one if you want.

BL

[oldpotatoe]

Does anyone here speak single speed? If not, and good recommendations for SS forums?

My confusion is the rear wheel. I have a 126mm spaced steel road frame and I'd like to slap on a rear fixed gear wheel. What is the rear spacing of those things? Do they have some sort of device to make sure your chain line is proper?

Thanks!

Many fixey/track hubs that can be spaced to 126mm..just add 3mm per side. Must have horizontal dropouts to get chain tension correct. If not a White Eno hub. Put the single ring on the inside of the crank, use track(shorter) chainring bolts, add chain, tension=fixie.

[veggieburger]

My single speed is also a vintage frame with 126 rear spacing. I used a modern road wheel with a freehub and 130 mm spacing.

To set it up as a single speed, I went to the LBS and talked him out of about eight or nine spacers from some used up cassettes he was about to toss, and then a fifteen tooth cog from same. I wanted to do it on the cheap because I would be using it as my winter trainer/rain bike.

The row of spacers makes it easy to set the chainline. It works great and parts are easy to find.

For the front, I use a regular double crank. If you want to run a single chainring, you need need to get single speed chainring bolts because the nuts have to be shallower.

I dug around for a picture but I don't have one. I could take one if you want.

BL

Please take a pic! I'd love to see it...thanks!

[spartacus]

Try to get the ring and cog to be as close to the same tooth size as possible. Once you have the gear inch correctly selected for your leg strength, style of riding, the nature of your ride, and the terrain you should be able to get a nice balanced combination of ring and cog. If the ring is quite big and the cog small you might not like the start off.

[Bob Loblaw]

Please take a pic! I'd love to see it...thanks!

Here you go. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/95987278@N00/sets/72157625074464144/)

BL

[veloduffer]

I had converted an old Falcon frame into a fixie. You need horizontal dropouts (the long Campy ones are the best) and can add spacers to the wheel to get from 120 to 126. But chainstays on steel bikes can usually be squeezed to fit.

Just make sure the rear wheel is in the drop out tight and don't mash your pedaling, you might pull out the rear wheel.

I used a road crank with a single chainring (42 or 40) with a 17T or 18T on the back (lots of hills/rollers where I live).

And please use a brake. It ain't worth it trying to be cool and skip stopping. I use a front and rear brake, because I've witnessed a buddy whose brake cable broke and he only had a front brake (ouch!).

[Mike748]

I used the Formula rear hub which has a long enough axle and fab'd some spacers to take the OLN dimension to 126. Sold that frame but still have the spacers if you want them.