Record hub woes

[shinomaster]

I'v been riding my record hubs all winter and last fall in a few cross races. I noticed they were feeling, well....not so fresh. Not so smooth. So I ran out the next day and bought a grease gun and squirted as much slippery stuff in those little holes as I can squirt. I think I may have filled them up too much? Now they are stiff and dont spin for very long, and the rear hub is worse and the freewheel makes no more clicking sound! Did I mess them up or do I just need to ride them?

Help...

Poor helpless me..

xxoo shino

[Too Tall]

You are talking about the hole in the middle of the hub right? Saddly those pretty little holes are useless...a left over from bygone days. You need to pull the axel, service the bearings and same for the freehub. You didn't hurt anything but it needs an overhaul. Not a hard job.

[shinomaster]

I don't understand. These are grease ports and I was told at my shop to inject grease into them?

[shaq-d]

I don't understand. These are grease ports and I was told at my shop to inject grease into them?

not sure where too tall's info is from. the grease ports work well for me... you should see grease building up on outsde of the axle as you ride.. it's not normal for the wheel to start feeling stiff and slow though.. hopefully u weren't too late in your re-greasing... might have replace bearings the too-tall way.

sd

[Too Tall]

I was talking about the grease port in the middle of the hub shell not at the cone(s)....which infact is an exit (hole) for spent grease. As far as I am concerned the center clip "port" is a joke...an historic hold over from days when pro mechanics might drip light weight oil in for record attempts and such. But as in the proven past I really don't know what the f I am talking about.

[bfd]

You need to read this:

http://www.campyonly.com/techtalk/techtalk8.html

[shinomaster]

crap..

[97CSI]

But, on the bright side of things, once you get them properly set-up the Record hub is just about as fast a hub as you can get. We have done roll-offs using Rolf Vectors, Shimano (last year, don't recall the model) Ksyrium and RD-400 wheels against Record/Open Pro wheels and after a downhill coast of ~1 mile the non-Record is behind from 100-200 yards. Swapping riders, the non-Record is still behind by 100-200 yards. Sure will be glad when my new Record/Open Pro wheels get here early next week. I need a breather from all that extra work spinning these non-Record hubs.

[shinomaster]

I called my local Campy "pro" shop today. They said that the grease I used (pedros) is fine and that the extra grease will ooze out, and that it's normal not to hear the clicking after an over haul. So I'll just ride them, and get a proper over haul when I get some more lira.

[Sandy]

Did you consider the tires? Same make? Same size? Same model? Same age? Same condition? Same psi? I wonder what would happen if you redid the test, switching the tires also, or at least trying to insure that the the tires were close to being the same and under similar conditions.

Switch Sandy

[Needs Help]

Hi,

The grease port issue has been discussed before. If you are interested here are two threads:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=2657&highlight=grease+ports
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=2489&highlight=grease+ports

Some people grease, some don't. The pro greasers cite Campy as their source for why you should grease, and the anti greasers cite the CampyOnly website as the reason you don't need to grease.

[97CSI]

Not really. All were clinchers of decent make and pumped to ~110psi. Nothing exotic. Do recall that the Ksyriums had 210g Panaracer and the Record/Open Pro have Conti Gatorskins. In that case the Panaracers should definitely have a lower rolling resistance than the Gatorskins.

[vaxn8r]

Shino, you shall be fine. Jus tride them. Be warned you'll get grease coming out the lateral part of the bearings for a few rides but the "stiffness" will go away. That is as long as your bearings were fine to begin with. You can always do a hub overhaul but I doubt you need to. Do a few rides and see.

I've had no problems using the grease port. It's an easy way to keep grease in your bearings without an overhual. And since the Campy are cup and cone, if you are not careful with lubing frequently you can freeze the bearings and then you've shot your wheels.

I like the silent Campy hub. People complain Campy hubs are too noisy...not mine. Can't hardly hear a thing....at least the few times I actually coast...

[shaq-d]

no other way to say it; it's just wrong and it's crap. go to the www.campagnolo.com website yourself and read up on the manual/instructions/etc for the campy hubs. it irks me that campyonly.com posts that on their site like it's the truth; bet they make a tidy profit from erstwhile campy hub owners who get all in a tizzy and send their hubs in for a checkup. the port is expressly to put in grease. it's not some useless artifact from days gone by.

sd

[hypnospin]

the front hub this is practicable for but the rear, it has the freehub on one side so the old grease cannot expel from that side.

I don't understand. These are grease ports and I was told at my shop to inject grease into them?

[Needs Help]

the front hub this is practicable for but the rear, it has the freehub on one side so the old grease cannot expel from that side.
I've never had a problem injecting and expelling grease with Campy rear wheels. :confused:

[chrisroph]

Campy hubs rock. They always have. The proper way to refresh them is to take them apart, thoroughly clean them, reassemble them, and adjust the bearing free play. injecting grease gunks them up, gets grease where it does not belong, substantially increases internal friction, ensures that they will ooze grease until you do a proper job and take them apart, and makes a proper rebuild much more messy. The only use for injection port is injecting oil when your mechanic has removed all of the grease and is lubricating the bearing with oil to give lower rolling resistance, something which used to be done for time trials. Back in the day, track riders used to pull the caps off their hubs so you could plainly see the cups, cones and bearings. Before a race, they would squirt lighter fluid in the bearings as a lubricant, light the fluid and spin the wheel until the flames subsided. Talk about psyching out an opponent. Sadly, those days are gone. Now, the general concensus is that wind resistance is more important than driveline and bearing friction. However, some pay attention to both. Museuw used to ride old spec dura ace cranks on a full campy bike with a cup and cone loose bearing bb to decrease friction. I doubt that made as much of a difference as some of his cocktails. The easiest way to decrease friction and make your bike run better is to keep your chain, cogs, rings and pulleys clean and lubricated.