Anyone ever encounter this?

[rickbb]

I started a build this morning and ran into this.
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/ab98/rickbb58/headtube_1_1.jpg?t=1283365446

The drive side head tube cable guide is less than an inch from the brake arm so brake arm interferes with shifter cable when turning. Only (poor) solution I can come up with is a lot of washers on the brake mount.
I'm really hoping this is a dumb question with an easy answer...
Thanks!
Rick

[oldpotatoe]

Common with shimano(ultegra mostly, 6600) brakes. A Campagnolo would be outta the way. 105 or DA may also...6700, 7900 as well

[BaconBikeJoe]

the little things can be soooo annoying. on the other hand... nice bike.

[dave thompson]

Not an uncommon occurrence, my wife's Calfee is like this. I crossed the left and right shifter cables so they went to the opposite adjusters and then re-crossed the inners under the downtube before they went into the cable guide on the bottom bracket. Works just fine for the last 7 years.

[vqdriver]

i've had this. it's a pain and i haven't found a perfect solution for it. either direction the housing goes its gonna have a sharp turn. i normally go to the 'inside' so that the housing doesn't get pushed when the brake arm moves. spacers may help a bit, but you can only use so many..... i'd be interested to know how others deal with this.

[Charles M]

Pull the adjuster and run cable directly into the stop.

Run an in line adjuster up near the shifter.

That will free up some bending room.


Nokon cable will make that turn even tighter...

[rice rocket]

Yeah, I'd say get a different front caliper.

[false_Aest]

Not an uncommon occurrence, my wife's Calfee is like this. I crossed the left and right shifter cables so they went to the opposite adjusters and then re-crossed the inners under the downtube before they went into the cable guide on the bottom bracket. Works just fine for the last 7 years.


w0rd

[rickbb]

Thanks for all the responses!
I tried the crossing solution but still not enough room (the brake arm lines up directly in front of the guide). Also tried no adjuster but still major interference.
I had some 105 calipers around but they're the same configuration.
At this point, I think a Campy front brake is in my future.

[bobswire]

You should have enough room for cable to curve around HT like my set up below?

[palincss]

If 47mm reach worked for you, the Paul Racer M (a 47-57mm reach brake) would make this problem go away.

http://paulcomp.com/images/racermd2thumb.png

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . sells aluminum spacers with a variety of lengths and inner diameters. They're in the section with all those little plastic drawers full of all sorts of small parts.

If all you need is a quarter inch more then that might do ya' quite well without the need for funky cable routing.

BBD

[Peter P.]

Your situation is the very reason why some builders use downtube located housing stops.

Of course, this doesn't solve your problem...

[tv_vt]

Hey, post a pic of that Look! Nice color! What model is that? Not a recent issue, I'm guessing.

[rickbb]

Thanks again, all. Still not sure of the solution as the offending parts are in much closer proximity than in the examples.
It's a 90's KG 233, Columbus Brain tubing. I'll post a photo when it and its environs are a bit more presentable.

[mosca]

Some Shimano calipers (6600, 7800) put the cable in the wrong position for certain HT-mounted cable stops. Unfortunately you may have to go to a different caliper. (I've been there...)

[oldpotatoe]

If 47mm reach worked for you, the Paul Racer M (a 47-57mm reach brake) would make this problem go away.

http://paulcomp.com/images/racermd2thumb.png

back to the future..don't forget the cable stop...

[rickbb]

back to the future..don't forget the cable stop...

It would be a good solution but I can't make myself do it. Would need canti mounts, anyway, wouldn't I?

[bobswire]

It would be a good solution but I can't make myself do it. Would need canti mounts, anyway, wouldn't I?

Not with these.... http://www.velo-orange.com/grco610cncbr.html

[rickbb]

Problem solved with a set of Centaur calipers. Plenty of clearance. The spacer solution would have worked, too, but, oh I don't know, lacked elegance.
Thanks again for all the inputs (all were workable!) and I'll post pics when it's finished and we're back from Acadia, for which I can't wait.

[gemship]

Problem solved with a set of Centaur calipers. Plenty of clearance. The spacer solution would have worked, too, but, oh I don't know, lacked elegance.
Thanks again for all the inputs (all were workable!) and I'll post pics when it's finished and we're back from Acadia, for which I can't wait.


Good for you. Yeah that spacer solution would not only lack elegance but I'm also thinking that it sort of diminishes the rigidity or sturdiness as I believe the brake is more solidly mounted when closest to the fork. ;)

[dimsy]

if you do go with a campy front brake, remember, you'll have no quick release mechanism (campy's are on the levers and shimano's are on the brake itself). so you may have to deflate your tire for removal.

[benb]

Huh.. I have this problem on my Concours w/Ultegra calipers.. I must not have had it when I had SRAM Calipers on the bike, but I don't remember.

I run the front deraiuller shift housing *inside* the front brake housing, and I have no trouble with it affecting either shifting or braking.

It always bothers me when I change cables though.

I do however have trouble with front brake chatter... anyone have recommendations for this? My rims are about 6 years old.. probably between 15-20,000 miles on them. Ultegra 6600 calipers I think (might be 6700?), and I use cool stop pads. I don't have any trouble with traction or braking distance but I worry it puts extra wear on the fork.

I am thinking using spacers to move the front brake caliper out further from the fork would make chatter more likely to happen.

[rickbb]

if you do go with a campy front brake, remember, you'll have no quick release mechanism (campy's are on the levers and shimano's are on the brake itself). so you may have to deflate your tire for removal.

Yes, thanks. I've got the pads as far apart as possible while still functional and can just squeeze the tire out. Compromise, compromise...