how much pressure should brakes require?

[Ken Robb]

I have/had a bunch of bikes with all kinds of brakes. My Legend had Shimano 7800 group and its brakes required the least effort of any I had ridden. The other end of the spectrum (NO, not you Tom) was my 1981 Nishiki with Nuovo Record group and std. reach brakes w/original type pads. It was very difficult/impossible to get sufficient braking with my hands on the hoods though I could lock up both ends using all fingers while in the drops.
I installed some modern holders and pads. Now I can lock up both ends with firm pressure when I'm on the hoods and also using just my index fingers when in the drops.

So I thought the 7800 brakes were wonderful because I ride on the hoods more than in the drops I now really like the tremendous range of modulation provided by the combination of NR single pivots w/modern pads.

I have no real experience with newer brakes like 7900, etc. but I wonder if they require even less pressure and if so are they too touchy?

[AngryScientist]

modulation is far more important than required pressure IMO, and the brakes themselves are only a small part of the equation.

rim sidewalls, their surface and stiffness play a huge part in brake feel, and how much input is needed to stop effectively, ditto for brake pads.

cleanly cut and prepped, stiff cables also add a ton to brake feel. of course levers and calipers do count for something, but less than you would think.

[Charles M]

7900 were designed differently because of the mech changes required to bring the cables into the handles... The got a brake that is VERY strong but is too front loaded with power and it's at the cost of modulation...

Some folks like it and some don't... It's not a "better or worse" thing.

I like brakes with very good power but with less initial bite and a bit more range from initial strength to lock up.

I think Zero GSL, TRP 960 and a few other after market brakes are actually better than 7900 (regardless of weight) BUT that's just me...



And before someone says it's a skill thing, I would argue it's not. I am comfortable braking from 150+ late into turns in moto with the back wheel popping off the ground...

[Ken Robb]

And before someone says it's a skill thing, I would argue it's not. I am comfortable braking from 150+ late into turns in moto with the back wheel popping off the ground...

oh sure, but you're not wearing Lycra when you do that are you? :)

[thwart]

DA brakes... super, amazingly strong, less able to modulate

Campy Record... not as strong in absolute stopping power, but easier to modulate (I think that differential braking thing actually works)

I'll take option #2.

[Bob Loblaw]

And before someone says it's a skill thing, I would argue it's not. I am comfortable braking from 150+ late into turns in moto with the back wheel popping off the ground...

It may be a technique thing. I do motorcycles on the race track too, and MC braking requires a firmer hand than bicycle braking and a different technique (owing to front suspension dive). That said, I have never experienced 7900 brakes.

There are a lot of factors that determine the effectiveness and feel of a bicycle brake. Some have been listed here, but there's also retraction spring tension, cable and housing quality and newness, cable routing and length, etc.

Everybody is different, but speaking personally, bicycle brakes fall into two categories: Fine and Not Fine. To meet the Fine standard, there are three criteria: I can bring the bike to a quick and controlled stop with two fingers on each hand from the brake hoods, my hands don't get tired on long descents, and the rear wheel doesn't lock if I hit a bump while braking medium-hard. If the brakes do those things, I don't think about them. If I think about them, they fail.

I have ridden lots of bikes, and I haven't ridden a bike with brakes that were Not Fine since the original Shimano dual-pivots were introduced back in what, 1990? I do replace my cables every year and my cable housing every two or three years.

BL

[palincss]

The other end of the spectrum (NO, not you Tom) was my 1981 Nishiki with Nuovo Record group and std. reach brakes w/original type pads. It was very difficult/impossible to get sufficient braking with my hands on the hoods though I could lock up both ends using all fingers while in the drops. I installed some modern holders and pads. Now I can lock up both ends with firm pressure when I'm on the hoods and also using just my index fingers when in the drops.


Those are the non-aero style brake levers, right? It's the location of the pivot that makes it very difficult to brake with full effectiveness from the hoods with non-aero style levers.

[Ken Robb]

Those are the non-aero style brake levers, right? It's the location of the pivot that makes it very difficult to brake with full effectiveness from the hoods with non-aero style levers.

Yep--the leverage is just not there.

[Dekonick]

DA brakes... super, amazingly strong, less able to modulate

Campy Record... not as strong in absolute stopping power, but easier to modulate (I think that differential braking thing actually works)

I'll take option #2.

I can lock up my Campy brakes... How much more stopping power is there than locking up your wheels? I will take modulation any day as I really don't want to lock 'em up!