Roadside low(er) count wheel repair

[jischr]

I was out last night on a route that is also used for a Monday night hammer fest when the peloton came through a turn with a road hazard. The result was one broken spoke at the hub of an aero rear wheel, guessing 20 spokes. We wrapped the spoke around another but the wheel was too warped to clear the brake pads. Didn’t think of it at the time but I had a hex-head wrench and we probably could have removed the pads and got him back on the road.

So this got me to thinking. On wheels with accessible spoke nipples, what is the lowest count of spokes that will still allow you to realign the rim and clear the brakes? 24? 28? 32? I’ve done it several times on with my 36 spoke rear wheel. I haven’t lost a spoke on my 32 spoke wheel yet but I would expect to be able to do it.

I’ve been thinking of buying some 24 or 28 spoke wheels when I upgrade my hubs. But if I can’t realign and ride 20-30 miles after a road-side repair then I’ll stay with 32 spoke wheels. What’s your experience?

[oldpotatoe]

I was out last night on a route that is also used for a Monday night hammer fest when the peloton came through a turn with a road hazard. The result was one broken spoke at the hub of an aero rear wheel, guessing 20 spokes. We wrapped the spoke around another but the wheel was too warped to clear the brake pads. Didn’t think of it at the time but I had a hex-head wrench and we probably could have removed the pads and got him back on the road.

So this got me to thinking. On wheels with accessible spoke nipples, what is the lowest count of spokes that will still allow you to realign the rim and clear the brakes? 24? 28? 32? I’ve done it several times on with my 36 spoke rear wheel. I haven’t lost a spoke on my 32 spoke wheel yet but I would expect to be able to do it.

I’ve been thinking of buying some 24 or 28 spoke wheels when I upgrade my hubs. But if I can’t realign and ride 20-30 miles after a road-side repair then I’ll stay with 32 spoke wheels. What’s your experience?

Remember that 4 spokes weigh about an ounce. 32 hole work really well and all things being equal will be 2 ounces heavier than a 24 hole rear wheel. 28 minimum I would think if you are a light rider both in technique and tonnage. Big guys that insist on low spoke count wheels make me giggle and shake my head at the same time.

[cmg]

28 spokes is the best deal to able ride a broken spoke back home. Lower spoke count wheels require a heavier rim. Heavier rim weight is never a good idea they just look cooler.

[RADaines]

I have a 32-spoke Mavic Open Pro rear wheel. Last year I broke a spoke nipple, and while the wheel was quite out of true, I was able to ride the two miles to my LBS without having to adjust the brake pad position. Not sure if the same would be the case for 28 count. Personally, I would not go less than 32 on rear. I haven't had to see how my 28-front behaves with one less spoke yet.

[thwart]

Had a well-worn Campy Nucleon clincher rim pop a spoke (rear, driveside) a couple of years ago 20-30 miles from home. Nucleons use low profile rims, and the rear has 24 spokes. Current version is called Neutron.

Was able to wrap the spoke, open the brake and ride it home.

Suspect multiple factors (rim stiffness, spoke count, spoke tension and others) dictate whether you'll 'survive' a spoke breakage. For me, it was another sign that Campy stuff is well-engineered.

[sg8357]

Get wheels with regular j bend spokes and nipples, then you can use a Fiberfix.

http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=19239

[false_Aest]

Ive ridden easily with a broken spoke on a 24 hole wheel.

Rear drive side if that makes any difference.

[mister]

broke a nds spoke on a 32h reflex rim the other week...i think those wheels have DT revolution spokes...pretty thin once they get past the elbow.

the rim was pretty wavy in that area but it still didn't even rub the brakes shoes.

[MattTuck]

On similar spoke count wheels with a broken spoke (say 26-32), the difference in "ridability" probably has more to do with the weight of the rider than the number of spokes.

[Pete Serotta]

Remember that 4 spokes weigh about an ounce. 32 hole work really well and all things being equal will be 2 ounces heavier than a 24 hole rear wheel. 28 minimum I would think if you are a light rider both in technique and tonnage. Big guys that insist on low spoke count wheels make me giggle and shake my head at the same time.
:) :) Pete

[Peter P.]

I realize this may not be the answer you're looking for, but here goes:

You obviously thought after the fact that you could have removed the brake pads and CONTINUED the ride. The problem I've seen in some frames is the chainstay spacing is so narrow that if the rim clears the missing pads, it may still rub the chainstays. That sucks and tells me the frame design is poor, and if it's only as a result of necessity due to material type, then the material is wrong for the application.

Anyway, another alternative is to remove the brake entirely and just put it in your pocket.

[Dave]

Last week, I broke my very first spoke in over 25 years of riding. I broke a drive side spoke on a Ksyrium wheel that only has 20 spokes. I don't ride this bike real often, but it's now the only one I own (sold both of my LOOK 585s). I wasn't carrying my Mavic spoke wrench. The brake pad rub was the least of my problems. I could loosen the brake mounting bolt and release all of the cable tension with a 5mm wrench. I had my 28mm winter tires on the bike and the tire rubbed both the seatstay near the brakes and the left chainstay. I tried adjusting the wheel's position in the dropout to eliminate the rub, but had no luck. I rode 9 miles at a very slow speed with the tire ruubbing the chainstays on each revolution. I decided that the rub was reduced if I left the skewer completely loose. I also stood a lot and moved forward to reduce the weight on the rear wheel. I probably spent an hour going that last 9 miles.

I replaced the spoke, put on my normal 23mm tires and now carry the Mavic spoke wrench. If another spoke breaks, all 10 on the drive side will be replaced.

As long as you have a spoke wrench, you should be able to adjust the spoke tension to eliminate most of the rub and at least get home.

[don compton]

Had a well-worn Campy Nucleon clincher rim pop a spoke (rear, driveside) a couple of years ago 20-30 miles from home. Nucleons use low profile rims, and the rear has 24 spokes. Current version is called Neutron.

Was able to wrap the spoke, open the brake and ride it home.

Suspect multiple factors (rim stiffness, spoke count, spoke tension and others) dictate whether you'll 'survive' a spoke breakage. For me, it was another sign that Campy stuff is well-engineered.
i used to be a true believer regarding campy neutron wheels until a spoke popped and in seconds the second spoke popped. you have to buy the spokes in a very expensive set of spokes, includes unnecessary front spokes, and then after the rebuild, the rear wheel lasted another 6 months. i am no longer fond of campy's wheelsets.

[oldpotatoe]

Last week, I broke my very first spoke in over 25 years of riding. I broke a drive side spoke on a Ksyrium wheel that only has 20 spokes. I don't ride this bike real often, but it's now the only one I own (sold both of my LOOK 585s). I wasn't carrying my Mavic spoke wrench. The brake pad rub was the least of my problems. I could loosen the brake mounting bolt and release all of the cable tension with a 5mm wrench. I had my 28mm winter tires on the bike and the tire rubbed both the seatstay near the brakes and the left chainstay. I tried adjusting the wheel's position in the dropout to eliminate the rub, but had no luck. I rode 9 miles at a very slow speed with the tire ruubbing the chainstays on each revolution. I decided that the rub was reduced if I left the skewer completely loose. I also stood a lot and moved forward to reduce the weight on the rear wheel. I probably spent an hour going that last 9 miles.

I replaced the spoke, put on my normal 23mm tires and now carry the Mavic spoke wrench. If another spoke breaks, all 10 on the drive side will be replaced.

As long as you have a spoke wrench, you should be able to adjust the spoke tension to eliminate most of the rub and at least get home.

You aren't breaking spokes because of the spokes(in spite of the fact that aluminum spokes aren't a great idea, IMO) but the rim has gotten deformed making the tension erratic...low, making for a broken spoke. Think coat hanger bending it back-forth-back-forth.

If ya break another one you may consider a new rim, done by Mavic, restarts the warranty. About $250..new bearings, spokes, rim.

[Dave]

You aren't breaking spokes because of the spokes(in spite of the fact that aluminum spokes aren't a great idea, IMO) but the rim has gotten deformed making the tension erratic...low, making for a broken spoke. Think coat hanger bending it back-forth-back-forth.

If ya break another one you may consider a new rim, done by Mavic, restarts the warranty. About $250..new bearings, spokes, rim.

How would you know that the rim is deformed? I weigh 135-140. The wheel has never taken a pothole hit or needed truing, other than a small fraction of a turn on a few spokes, once a year. A deformed rim should have required truing. The wheel probabaly has 6-8000 miles on it. My bet is normal spoke fatigue. It could also just be a bad spoke that broke far ahead of a normal life.

[oldpotatoe]

How would you know that the rim is deformed? I weigh 135-140. The wheel has never taken a pothole hit or needed truing, other than a small fraction of a turn on a few spokes, once a year. A deformed rim should have required truing. The wheel probabaly has 6-8000 miles on it. My bet is normal spoke fatigue. It could also just be a bad spoke that broke far ahead of a normal life.

In my experience with broken spokes it's erratic spoke tension, not spoke fatigue. The only way to get that is with a deformed rim. Not a potatoe chip type rim but when truing, you get 2 outcomes with a deformed rim, trueness with erratic tension of equal tension and not a true wheel. Unfotunately tough to check tension on these spokes, being aluminum. BUT if you break another spoke, and replace all the spokes, I'll bet you break another spoke.

[Dave]

Park's tension gage will measure the tension on aluminum bladed spokes. A deformed rim would cause the tensions to vary greatly when the wheel was trued radially and axially. Unless that condition is seen, there would be no point in replacing a rim.