Re-cabling Campy 11

[Dan Le foot]

Good morning gang.
About time to re-cable the wife's Record 11.
I normally pick up open stock generic cables and housing from the LBS.
I read a few places that we need to use Campy specific 11 speed stuff.
And most places are charging $65 for the kit.
Any experience with this issue out there?
Dan

[Pete Serotta]

When I went to 11 speed, I used a CAMPY specific cabling. Do not see a problem.

best source of ADVISE here is DAVE from COlorado. I owe him much for all his help to us forumites.


PETE

[ultratoad]

Read the explaination at Competitive Cyclist for Campy 11spd Cables. Apparently the diameter of the cable housing is smaller than the 10 and changing is a problem. I trust CC so I have stayed pure with the 11spd stuff.

[Pete Serotta]

Read the explaination at Competitive Cyclist for Campy 11spd Cables. Apparently the diameter of the cable housing is smaller than the 10 and changing is a problem. I trust CC so I have stayed pure with the 11spd stuff.


First class business and folks there... :banana: :banana:

[Dave]

The shift cable housing must be 4mm or Campy's new 4.1mm diameter and have adequately low friction. Only the right side is critical. I've had decent luck using Shimano housing with Campy cables. I tired Jagwire once and found too much friction.

I find that shift cables need changing far more often than brake cable, so I don't buy a whole Campy kit and install it, every time I need shift cables.

I read an interesting debate on the rear cable housing loop length. Campy makes their rear loop about 340mm in length. I've tried making my mine even longer, but there's a guy who claims that 292mm is the magic length. That seems silly to me since not all bikes have the cable stop in the same location on the chainstay. Regardless, it may be worth experimenting with, if the shifts to smaller cogs are hesitating due to cable friction. The brake cable housing can be any generic 5mm housing.

[Avispa]

I don't claim to be an expert at cabling... But I do 98% of the work on my bikes and I rarely, if ever, have a mechanical problem when riding. All my bikes have Campy 11... I have used Jagwaire, Nokon and recetly Gore Ride-On.
I have had no problem as long as I use the same brand cable and housing combination. Mind you, that new cables will always stretch and the need to re-adjust after a couple of rides is almost necessary with any cables!

I have also discovered that I like the feel of the Gore cables/housing the best, so I am sticking with that brand for a while.

..A..

[blschaefer1]

Lickton's has the 11 speed campy cable sets for $44.95.

[Ralph]

I like to use a little extra length housing here and there, if cable ends fray, and to move cable slightly off the BB cable guide a little as they age and wear. And sometimes I may want to mount a derailleir, front or rear, that takes a little longer length. I can always cut a housing and cable some more, but haven't figured out how to make them longer after I cut them. LOL

[Dan Le foot]

The shift cable housing must be 4mm or Campy's new 4.1mm diameter and have adequately low friction. Only the right side is critical. I've had decent luck using Shimano housing with Campy cables. I tired Jagwire once and found too much friction.

I find that shift cables need changing far more often than brake cable, so I don't buy a whole Campy kit and install it, every time I need shift cables.

I read an interesting debate on the rear cable housing loop length. Campy makes their rear loop about 340mm in length. I've tried making my mine even longer, but there's a guy who claims that 292mm is the magic length. That seems silly to me since not all bikes have the cable stop in the same location on the chainstay. Regardless, it may be worth experimenting with, if the shifts to smaller cogs are hesitating due to cable friction. The brake cable housing can be any generic 5mm housing.

Hi Dave.
I am struggling with getting a smooth shift to the smaller cogs. Seems to get stuck especially in the middle of the cluster.
I am not using the special step down ferrule. Am I suppose to?
Also the instructions are a little confusing. Sounds like we are suppose to use a ferrule into the shifter. But I couldn't get it to fit so I only have the outer cable going in. Is this correct?
Thanks.
Dan

[dave thompson]

One word...Shimano. :p

[Dan Le foot]

One word...Shimano. :p
Got me wondering, Dave. (You are a touble maker)
I don't have problems with the 7800 on the back up bike.
But I had to get Campy to run the new C50. Hope I didn't make a mistake.
Michelle likes her Record 11 just fine.
Dan

[Avispa]

Sounds like we are suppose to use a ferrule into the shifter. But I couldn't get it to fit so I only have the outer cable going in. Is this correct?
Thanks.
Dan

No... You should not put a ferrule there! 1) good place to accumulate water, rust, etc. and 2) I don't think it will fit!

..A..

[oldpotatoe]

Hi Dave.
I am struggling with getting a smooth shift to the smaller cogs. Seems to get stuck especially in the middle of the cluster.
I am not using the special step down ferrule. Am I suppose to?
Also the instructions are a little confusing. Sounds like we are suppose to use a ferrule into the shifter. But I couldn't get it to fit so I only have the outer cable going in. Is this correct?
Thanks.
Dan

Not Dave but....NO ferrule in the shifter unlike the 10s stuff, last made in 2008. New shape levers, whether 10s or 11s, use 4mm housing and NO ferrule for the brake or der cable into the lever. I find wrapping the housing behind the bars makes for a better shifting system. I have had great success with jagwire 4mm housing and inner wires(small head for Campagnolo).

Make sure the brass washer that sits inside the lever where the end of the housing lives is still there, not turned on it's side.

Also make sure the end of the housing end is cut and ground clean, 90 degrees.

I have installed many 10 and 11s Campagnolo new shape systems with no problems whatsoever..I'm a bike shop, not just a few bike owner. I see a lot of this stuff.

[Dan Le foot]

Not Dave but....NO ferrule in the shifter unlike the 10s stuff, last made in 2008. New shape levers, whether 10s or 11s, use 4mm housing and NO ferrule for the brake or der cable into the lever. I find wrapping the housing behind the bars makes for a better shifting system. I have had great success with jagwire 4mm housing and inner wires(small head for Campagnolo).

Make sure the brass washer that sits inside the lever where the end of the housing lives is still there, not turned on it's side.

Also make sure the end of the housing end is cut and ground clean, 90 degrees.

I have installed many 10 and 11s Campagnolo new shape systems with no problems whatsoever..I'm a bike shop, not just a few bike owner. I see a lot of this stuff.
Thanks Old P. I'll pick up a set og JW for my wifes Record 11.
The problem I'm having is with my new Chorus 11 (running 50/34 with the new 12/29 cassette)
I just wrapped it back up. I meant to check my cut on the end of the cable to make sure it was cut and cleaned properly. But I forgot. :crap:
It seems to shift well in the small chainring. But for some reason that I don't understand it is real cranky shifting down the cluster when in the big chainring. I double checked everything and don't see any obvious source for the friction.
Any thoughts?
Dan

[Dave]

Campy's instructions remain incorrect, mentioning the old preinstalled ferrule. No ferrule is used at the ergo body.

Hesitating shifts to smaller cogs is almost always due to a cable friction problem, or the cable tension is too tight.

The step down ferrule only fits certain types of cable stops, usually found on traditional steel frames. It wouldn't fit into most modern frames.

I've had that same problem where I got hesitation, mainly in a couple of middle cogs. I installed a new cable and housing on the right side only and it seemed to fix the problem.

[Pete Serotta]

Next time I get to Colorado, or DAVE to east coast, wine and rides will be a top priority,

[Avispa]

I double checked everything and don't see any obvious source for the friction. Any thoughts? Dan

Hesitating shifts to smaller cogs is almost always due to a cable friction problem, or the cable tension is too tight...

Hey just to add to Dave's comments, have you checked the length of your rear derailleur cable and housing? I have found that using about one foot (yes, 12 inches) of housing works great and it has been said is the best length to use.

Also, remember the position of the derailleurs when you first put the cables! Some home mechanics just forget that the derailleurs should never be on random positions when you first mount the cables.

..A..

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks Old P. I'll pick up a set og JW for my wifes Record 11.
The problem I'm having is with my new Chorus 11 (running 50/34 with the new 12/29 cassette)
I just wrapped it back up. I meant to check my cut on the end of the cable to make sure it was cut and cleaned properly. But I forgot. :crap:
It seems to shift well in the small chainring. But for some reason that I don't understand it is real cranky shifting down the cluster when in the big chainring. I double checked everything and don't see any obvious source for the friction.
Any thoughts?
Dan

Certainly the cable, inner wire is draggy somewhere. Also check a smooth running cable thru the BB guide and as I mentioned the teeny brass washer in the lever. Poor design and when installing the cable, sometimes it pops out or is turned sideways.