Decal

[CJV]

I need advice on how to replace a decal on my Hors Categorie. Wheat Ridge Cyclery graciously gave me a number of "Hors Categorie" decals, but local LBS mechanics say it is not something they would tackle. One recommended going to a body shop or doing it myself after purchasing some Clear Coat. What do you people recommend? Thanks.

CJV

[Serotta PETE]

Call Serotta and ask them......they would be the best source of info.

[LegendRider]

I ordered replacement decals for my Legend about a year ago. My LBS did most of them and I did the fork decals. The result was mediocre - all the decals cracked or split when peeling them carefully from the backing. We were able to salvage them, but the bike didn't look factory fresh upon close inspection.

[wasfast]

I need advice on how to replace a decal on my Hors Categorie. Wheat Ridge Cyclery graciously gave me a number of "Hors Categorie" decals, but local LBS mechanics say it is not something they would tackle. One recommended going to a body shop or doing it myself after purchasing some Clear Coat. What do you people recommend? Thanks.


I'm not familiar with these exact decals but from your description, they sound like water slide decals. These decals are printed with a lacquer topcoat normally. The lacquer doesn't age well at all. If the decals have been around a while (several years or more) and exposed to light, they will discolor some (brown tint) and become brittle. Reinforcing the lacquer can help. Krylon clear matte spray is helpful if you spray the decal BEFORE you dip it in water. Many hobby builders use some soap in the water to lubricate the surface once the decal comes off. You want the water to soak the paper behind the decal, not try to peel the decal off the backing. There is a very thin flim of watersoluble adhesive between the paper and the decal so make sure it's nice and loose before you slide it off. Hence, the name "water slide decal"

Check out some of the scale model magazines at hobby shops for trains, planes etc. There are also some good books that cover this isse. Vintage modelers run into this all the time with decals from the 60's and 70's.

If these decals are NOT of this type, ignore this lengthy post:-)

[David Kirk]

So.......is the bike painted or is it polished with decals?

Dave

[buttercup]

If you order replacement decals from Serotta they will probably be top mount. By this I mean they do not need to be clesr coated. Just be sure that you burnish or rub the decal backing ( the clear sheet that covers them ) really well. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to get the decal to release. Be careful though because the decals are very thin and tear easy. You can actually seethe decal release if you look carefully. Good Luck--Bike painter :beer:

[CJV]

Thanks for your postings. The bike is unpainted. I could live without the two on the top tube, given the precision surgery many of you describe in applying them.

[David Kirk]

If it's an unpainted bike then you can't screw it up.

Get the decals and apply then as those before me posted. If you screw it up all you have to do is use a soft rag and acetone ( or nail polish remover) and they will disolve without leaving a trace.

It's really simple and very low risk. Go for it.

Dave