S&S packing ?

[jharsha]

Those of you that travel frequently with an S & S bike-- how do you handle the chain and RD? Do you break the chain and remove the RD, just break the chain or some other method? Any advice appreciated, I've got a trip to the Finger Lakes coming up in about 3 weeks.

Thanks
Jim

[Louis]

I don't have a coupled bike, but I do have a SRAM quick-link (or whatever it is they call it) on my Shimano 9-spd chain and it works very well. Easy to install and takes about two seconds to break the chain. No extra noise or bad effects on shifting. You don't even notice that it's there.

If you want an easy way to remove the chain it's definitely a good option.

Louis

[gone]

Quick link to break the chain, remove the derailleur.

[nalsdixit]

depends on the size of your bike, i hv a bike with 53cm t/tube and chain stay of 43cm, and it just fits in without having to remove the rear derailleur, i bunch up and wrap the chain around the chainstay with some cloth wrapping

nals

[dumbod]

I'm with nalsdixit. I have a 56 and don't have to remove either the chain or derailleur. I do remove the crank and the front brake. It just makes it easier to get the bike in that stupid freakin' box.

[dogdriver]

Remove chain with quicklink and put in a ziplock. Otherwise, it seems like the grease gets EVERYWHERE. I remove RD so that I don't have to worry about derr or hanger damage.

[Cinci Jim]

depends on the size of your bike, i hv a bike with 53cm t/tube and chain stay of 43cm, and it just fits in without having to remove the rear derailleur, i bunch up and wrap the chain around the chainstay with some cloth wrapping

nals

I bought a roll of the Velcro padding for the tubes and with the leftovers I made somestrips that I use to take up the slack in the chain.

My question to others with an S&S bike - seems like no matter what i do the bar tape takes a beating as well as the spokes & brake surfaces on the wheels. I've now swapped out parts for cheaper items that I don't feel as bad if they get trashed but any tips would be great.

[dogdriver]

I

My question to others with an S&S bike - seems like no matter what i do the bar tape takes a beating as well as the spokes & brake surfaces on the wheels. I've now swapped out parts for cheaper items that I don't feel as bad if they get trashed but any tips would be great.

Quite true (and this doesn't take into account the TSA magicians). I travel with an old, beat set of AC mtb wheels with cross tires. A well-monied friend travels with an S&S Vamoots-- all the good bits-- and bought a $200 pair of Torelli wheels because he couldn't stand his good wheels getting beat up.

Others use two cases-- one for the wheelset and the other for the rest of the bike.

[Ray]

depends on the size of your bike, i hv a bike with 53cm t/tube and chain stay of 43cm, and it just fits in without having to remove the rear derailleur, i bunch up and wrap the chain around the chainstay with some cloth wrapping

nals
Yup, its size. I have about a 61 and the fork has to come off for the front triangle to fit in, the crank has to come off, the chain comes off with a SRAM power link or whatever they call it. But, miracle of miracle, the rear derailure can stay on and sits in a pretty secure spot in the case. One small favor I guess.

-Ray

[Satellite]

Those of you that travel frequently with an S & S bike-- how do you handle the chain and RD? Do you break the chain and remove the RD, just break the chain or some other method? Any advice appreciated, I've got a trip to the Finger Lakes coming up in about 3 weeks.

Thanks
Jim
Jim

I have a 56 VaMoots and I remove the chain with a quick link and put it back in the Sram Plastic Box, I unbolt the rear derailleur but leave the cable attached. I don't have to remove my cranks, best tip I learned (Thanks Serotta Forum) tie the front a rear wheels together with twine once the bike is packed.

I think each and every S & S bike packs differently, the Breezer Drop Outs on my VaMoots require me to pack the bike a bit differently. Notice in the photo how low the rear end sits in the box. It took me a little bit of work to figure out how to get the bars in and mine are small FSA Compact 40's.

The first packing attempt took me about 2 1/2 hours, now I can pack it in about 45 mins including breaking the frame down and I can fit water bottles shoes and all my rideing clothing.

One word of warning don't pack C02, that is what TSA is screening for and they will tear your case apart to find them, I keep my saddle bag close to the top so they can open it without messing up the whole case.

Satellite

[Smiley]

here is large Co-Mo tandem in two cases :)

[ols]

I have an S&S coupled Kirk. Since I use a wipperman chain with the easy remove link, the chain is definitely removed. I also remove the rear derailleur, wrap it in a rag (for padding) and put it in a ziplock. My frame is relatively big, so I also need to remove the crankset, fork and front brake... Still, I'm happy because it all still fits in the S&S case :)

[PaMtbRider]

The wipperman link should be standard equipment on any S&S coupled bike. They are much easier to separate than the SRAM powerlink. The only thing you need to make sure is that they are installed in the correct direction or they can affect the shifting.

[Louis]

The wipperman link should be standard equipment on any S&S coupled bike. They are much easier to separate than the SRAM powerlink.

This is not that big of a deal, but for the record: (not that I'm a big SRAM booster, the link is the only SRAM thing I own).

I'm not sure what my SRAM link is called, and maybe they have more than one type, but I don't see how in the world it could be easier to disconnect something compared to the link I have. You just push the side-plates in a bit, then push to "shorten" the chain, and they separate. [Edit: or maybe it's the other way around, shorten then push plates in. Either way, it takes about two seconds.] The only thing that could be easier is a system that allowed you to separate the two without handling the chain and getting lube on yourself, but I can't see how that would work.

The first time I put mine on I thought to myself "there's no way in the world that's going to hold together, it comes apart way too easily" but it's never been a problem, either coming apart unintentionally, or not coming apart when I wanted it to.

YMMV
Louis

[Satellite]

The wipperman link should be standard equipment on any S&S coupled bike. They are much easier to separate than the SRAM powerlink. The only thing you need to make sure is that they are installed in the correct direction or they can affect the shifting.
PaMtbRider,

Humm what is the correct direction, I use the wipperman link and I didn't know they were directional and I have been having some shifting problems (chain skipping in the tallest gear). Does the fat part goto the front or rear of the bike when the chain is on the top of the cycle?

Satellite

[fogrider]

PaMtbRider,

Humm what is the correct direction, I use the wipperman link and I didn't know they were directional and I have been having some shifting problems (chain skipping in the tallest gear). Does the fat part goto the front or rear of the bike when the chain is on the top of the cycle?

Satellite
I just installed mine a few weeks ago, its in the instructions that come with the chain, but the V cutout is V on the bottom.

[Birddog]

I just installed mine a few weeks ago, its in the instructions that come with the chain, but the V cutout is V on the bottom.

That is incorrect if you meant on the bottom run of chain.
Yes, if viewing the link on the top run of chain (RD to chain ring). An easy way to remember is
"when the chain is down (lower run), it wears a frown"

Or remember that the "V" always points to the inside of the circle of connected chain.


http://www.connexchain.com/data-live-connex/docs/pdf/Bedienungsanleitungen/Manual_Connex_Link.pdf

[Pete Serotta]

I have a 57cm legend st with ultegra triple. Over the years i have tried many ways and have pretty much settled on the below

- tubing from co motion cut to the length of the tubes and then labeled
- take cranks off and wrap
- bars off of stem and turn stem
- front brake off
- rear deer off and wrapped
- tsa net around everything
- compression White plastic Supports
- tsa lock


I am going to try the chain link disconnect next.


Thanks for the additional input for this is not a quick pack.

Also iF you use carbon post, stem, seat post , use a torque wrench. I use aluminum for they are pretty much bullet proof and nicks or tsp can not hurt them.

[Satellite]

That is incorrect if you meant on the bottom run of chain.
Yes, if viewing the link on the top run of chain (RD to chain ring). An easy way to remember is
"when the chain is down (lower run), it wears a frown"

Or remember that the "V" always points to the inside of the circle of connected chain.


http://www.connexchain.com/data-live-connex/docs/pdf/Bedienungsanleitungen/Manual_Connex_Link.pdf
Birddog,

Thanks for the PDF I am heading to Boston on the 1st I will make sure I use the connect correctly.

Satellite

[PaMtbRider]

This is not that big of a deal, but for the record: (not that I'm a big SRAM booster, the link is the only SRAM thing I own).

I'm not sure what my SRAM link is called, and maybe they have more than one type, but I don't see how in the world it could be easier to disconnect something compared to the link I have...
YMMV
Louis
I use the 9 speed links on my mountain bike and they can be taken apart easily by hand. The SRAM 10 speed links to me are harder to get apart. Incidentally, Park makes a tool to take these links apart. http://parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=5&item=MLP-1
Also SRAM officially recommends not re-using a link after it has been taken apart.

[Louis]

I use the 9 speed links on my mountain bike and they can be taken apart easily by hand. The SRAM 10 speed links to me are harder to get apart.

Thanks for the info. Yet another reason for me to stick with 9-spd ;)

[JohnHemlock]

A few bits of advice from my recent inaugural trip with a coupled bike. . .

Don't leave your crank wrench next to a dumpster in Bakersfield and figure you can just "grab a #10 at the hardware store before you need to disassemble."

Don't decide to ride "one more lap" on the last stage of the Tour of California when your flight leaves in 4 hours, your bike is still intact, and you need to drive the 101-405 combo and return your rental car.

Don't try to disassemble and pack your coupled bike in the parking lot of a Home Depot in Culver City in 40 mph winds with 70 minutes remaining before your flight departs.

Don't leave any part of your frame exposed and unwrapped in your haste because that is the place where the paint will get gouged.

Other than that, I love my coupled travel bike!!

[weisan]

A few bits of advice from my recent inaugural trip with a coupled bike. . .

Don't leave your crank wrench next to a dumpster in Bakersfield and figure you can just "grab a #10 at the hardware store before you need to disassemble."

Don't decide to ride "one more lap" on the last stage of the Tour of California when your flight leaves in 4 hours, your bike is still intact, and you need to drive the 101-405 combo and return your rental car.

Don't try to disassemble and pack your coupled bike in the parking lot of a Home Depot in Culver City in 40 mph winds with 70 minutes remaining before your flight departs.

Don't leave any part of your frame exposed and unwrapped in your haste because that is the place where the paint will get gouged.

Other than that, I love my coupled travel bike!!
Brutal....honesty. Ain't that the truth?! :beer:

[Sparky69]

I don't break my chain , but I do remove the rear derailleur and let it hang with the chain .

[Satellite]

That is incorrect if you meant on the bottom run of chain.
Yes, if viewing the link on the top run of chain (RD to chain ring). An easy way to remember is
"when the chain is down (lower run), it wears a frown"

Or remember that the "V" always points to the inside of the circle of connected chain.


http://www.connexchain.com/data-live-connex/docs/pdf/Bedienungsanleitungen/Manual_Connex_Link.pdf
Birddog,

Once the quick connect was installed correctly it worked like a champ, thanks for the info. No more skipping on the smaller cassette gears. Now if only I could get the engine to stop skipping. :banana:

Satellite

[deanster]

Remove chain with quicklink and put in a ziplock. Otherwise, it seems like the grease gets EVERYWHERE. I remove RD so that I don't have to worry about derr or hanger damage.

I have a Ritchey Breakaway Cross bike and pack it often. Removing the chain (SRAM quick link) and placing it in a plastic bag in a pocket with the skewers and clamp is the best way to keep the bag clean. Also, I remove the RD wrap it in a rag (towel) and place it in the area with the wheels still attached to the cable. So far so good. Going to Italy this summer and this will be the acid test. I'll report when I come back.