dumb question re: track ends

[vqdriver]

how do you properly apply tension to the chain on a bike with horizontal track ends with no screwey adjusters in em? you know, the ones with just the horizontal openings with no built in adjusters?
like this
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/3258990124_15a17fb9c8.jpg

i can only imagine the headache of trying to pull back on the wheel while trying to tighten the nuts. not to mention the likelihood of tightening the wheel crooked, or it slipping inside the dropout.

[jvp]

I push back on the wheel, and get it roughly centered, then tighten one side. Then I push on the wheel to both dead center and tighten, and tighten the other side. Repeat if necessary.

[David Kirk]

I push back on the wheel, and get it roughly centered, then tighten one side. Then I push on the wheel to both dead center and tighten, and tighten the other side. Repeat if necessary.

What this guy said - I would just add that I'd do it with the bike on the floor with a bit of weigh on it so that the axle is in firm contact with the upped side of the dropout axle slot.

Happy adjusting.

dave

[11.4]

Bend over the rear wheel, left hand right behind the bottom bracket pushing the wheel back in the slots and right hand with a wrench to tighten the right-hand track nut. Push the wheel back, eyeball the tension, and wrench the track nut gently (just enough so it doesn't slip while looking at it). Wrench the other track nut gently. Check tension. For track with 1/8" chains you want a good inch of up-and-down play in the chain. Unless you know your chainrings are really round, check it at different points of crank rotation in case the chain tightens up somewhere or loosens somewhere. The general rule on the track is that if you can't push the chain off with a screwdriver or other tool, you are fine -- you do not want it tight because it's harder on equipment and on your legs. Many professional trackies use a lot more than 1" slack (and ignore the messenger/fixie guys who like to get it so tight you're stretching the chain -- they don't know what they're talking about and they just want instant feedback for doing track stands, which they don't really need anyway). It's normal to repeat this 2-3 times to get it just right. Take your time at a race -- this is important to get right. Do be aware that tightening the track nuts can cause the rear hub to move a bit and tighten up the chain, so always recheck after everything is tightened.

[bironi]

Bend over the rear wheel, left hand right behind the bottom bracket pushing the wheel back in the slots and right hand with a wrench to tighten the right-hand track nut. Push the wheel back, eyeball the tension, and wrench the track nut gently (just enough so it doesn't slip while looking at it). Wrench the other track nut gently. Check tension. For track with 1/8" chains you want a good inch of up-and-down play in the chain. Unless you know your chainrings are really round, check it at different points of crank rotation in case the chain tightens up somewhere or loosens somewhere. The general rule on the track is that if you can't push the chain off with a screwdriver or other tool, you are fine -- you do not want it tight because it's harder on equipment and on your legs. Many professional trackies use a lot more than 1" slack (and ignore the messenger/fixie guys who like to get it so tight you're stretching the chain -- they don't know what they're talking about and they just want instant feedback for doing track stands, which they don't really need anyway). It's normal to repeat this 2-3 times to get it just right. Take your time at a race -- this is important to get right. Do be aware that tightening the track nuts can cause the rear hub to move a bit and tighten up the chain, so always recheck after everything is tightened.

Thanks. I don't ride track, but I think I have been over-tightening the chain tension. I'd like my equipment to last.

Byron

[rustychisel]

...

[rustychisel]

Bend over the rear wheel, left hand right behind the bottom bracket pushing the wheel back in the slots and right hand with a wrench to tighten the right-hand track nut..........


Yup, I'll add that for 3/32 drivetrains a little more tension is not necessarily a bad idea, but some small 'slop' in the drivetrain is still a good idea. One idea I heard was to use a tennis ball wedged between the seattube and back tyre, but I just use a hand as per 11.4s method, it also allows you to cup the wheel and therefore centre it as you go.