Using a chain saw

[Louis]

I'm nearly done refurbishing a chain saw given to me by a buddy and plan on taking down some dead trees near my driveway and house (biggest one is probably about 18" in diameter two feet from the ground). I've used them in the past but primarily to cut stuff that was already down or relatively small saplings.

I've seen folks use two different methods to get the tree to fall in the desired direction:

1) Cut out a wedge (just about half-way through) on the side on which you want it to fall then at about the same height as the wedge do a third cut on the opposite side.

2) Do a single cut just about half way through on the side on which you want it to fall then about 8-10" above that do a cut from the opposite side. The idea here is to have it split on a vertical plane between the two cuts and pivot about the angle formed in the stump as it falls.

Anybody care to comment on either of these methods or add a better way to do it?

TIA

[Erik.Lazdins]

I used method #1 on an oak tree in my yard after the ice storm of December 2007 hit. Worked like a champ.

Planted a new tree about 2 weeks later - need to wait a few years before it begins to fill the space the old one did.

[dogdriver]

This isn't bad--

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/naturalresources/dd2487.html

Pay particular attention to the discussion on the "hinge"-- its the key to avoiding the trunk "kicking back" unpredictably, which can kill you. Notice that the wedge (the direction you want the tree to go) and the "back cut" (the one you cut when you actually want the tree to fall) are at different heights. I learned from a bud who has spent the last 20 summers working for the US Forest Service, mostly clearing dead trees in the Uintah Mountains, and usually give him a call before doing any cutting myself.

BE CAREFUL!!!

[pbjbike]

+1 on Dogdriver's post and link. I prefer method number 1, with a full wedge cutout, as shown in the link.

If you aren't very familiar with using that saw, I'd recommend at least 30 minutes of light tree trimming or chunking firewood to get used to it. When felling, you want to work efficiently. Start with a smaller tree or do some limbing before you take the first tree down. I use a come-along and a cable if a tree is leaning steeply away from where I want it to fall. A little tension does wonders.

You probably have the following: logger's helmet with earmuffs and face shield, steel toe boots, good gloves. Buy Stihl or Husqvarna oil for the saw, both for the mix and the bar.

Make sure you keep the chain tensioned properly: a new one will stretch initially, and you will need to re-adjust it a few times. I like to rev my saw 30%, and hold it near some clean wood until I see the chain lube hitting the wood, before going for the big cuts.

Watch out for stones, and gravel when you are working near the ground--one very brief meeting between the chain and a rock = sharpening. :crap:

Good luck and have fun. It's enjoyable work.

[DavidR]

Louis,

It sounds like your on the right track with either option. Be safe and take your time. I hear riding with one leg is really hard!

If you need help please let me know. I would be more than happy to stop by and lend a hand.

Dave

[Louis]

Thanks for all the good advice guys.

My sister (who lives in Maine) has forced me to swear that I will never try anything tricky alone, so if I do mess up badly at least I'll have someone around to tie on the tourniquet and drive me to the hospital. I've already asked a riding buddy if he can help.


Thanks again.
Louis