OT: National Parks in WY/MT/SD

[sevencyclist]

My family is interested in taking a 10 day trip in mid June to Yellowstone and Mt. Rushmore. We are flying into Denver, rent a car to travel around, and flying out from Salt Lake City. Any must see stopping point in between? Thanks.

[David Kirk]

Bozeman - it's the new Portland.

dave

[Karin Kirk]

Beartooth Highway.

It connects the very cute mountain town of Red Lodge with my favorite part of Yellowstone, the Lamar River Valley. The Beartooth Plateau is simply awesome alpine scenery. If you like climbing, you may be wishing you brought your bike.

The road usually opens Memorial Day, but not always, so check before you go.

[Pete Serotta]

I did a motorcycle tour a few years ago which started in Salt Lake and went to Jackson Hole, Grand Tetons, and Yellowstone.... It was one of the two best trip I have ever been on....

[Ralph]

I'm sure you will visit and enjoy all the places on your list. The places mentioned are most incredible. I live in Florida, but have roamed all over the West.

The place in Wy that that haunts me the most (most tourists don't see it)...was standing in South Pass, Wy, one spring (all alone) realizing that about 500,000 settlers had to go thru that narrow pass on their way west in the 1840's and 50's. If you look at a map, there is only one way a wagon could go west, that was thru the "great divide" and South Pass. Some of the wagon ruts are still there....along with the ghosts of those that didn't make it. There is not much there, just a sign saying what happened....and some old broken plates, etc. This place may not appeal to most, unless you know the history of how the immigrants went west.

I also stumbled across Sacajawea's grave one year while going thru Lander, Wy. After leading Lewis and Clark W, she came back to her tribe there. Her history is very interesting to me also. There is lots to see in the West. You will have a fantastic trip. It's OK to get off the popular route also.

[staggerwing]

We did a big lap of the region a couple of summers back, car camping with the kids (then 8,8, and 12yo). I can give you a quick rundown, but some of the options might be different if not camping. At this point, hotel reservations in the National Parks, if you need them, are likely getting thin, especially in Yellowstone.

For South Dakota:

Badlands NP: Other worldly, hot and dry, like some extra-terrestrial landscape. Peaceful, comfortable in the evening. A bit unusual in that you can tramp all over the formations. Take several of the short hikes if you go, especially in late evening. Easy to spend 2 days with kids, maybe less if adult only.

Minuteman National Historic Site: This curious attraction starts at a National Park trailer near the north boundary of Badlands NP. You have to stop and check in here before proceeding to the actual interpretive sites (2), one of which is launch control and the other, the actual missile silo. Hours were a bit unusual, so check first. Sobering and fascinating cold war artifact, well worth the couple of hour diversion. A curious bit of black humor remains preserved on the underground.

Custer State Park: It really could be a National Park, but the SP label keeps it more of an open secret. Some nice historic hotels, as well as quality car camping. Beautiful drives (Needles Highway was the favorite, although the highway label is, at best, ironic), many a wild buffalo and even donkeys. Relatively close to Mt. Rushmore. Had some great kids programs when we visited, but this economy has many a state park cutting to the bone.

Mt. Rushmore: I suppose it is a must, once on a lifetime visit, but my wife and I came away with very mixed feelings. Like other popular National Parks, operations have been sub-contracted to commercial concessionaires, and the thing now comes off more like a glorified Disney than the national treasure that it is supposed to be. And on the latter point, although beautifully executed, the mountain would have likely been better unmolested. Expect shopping mall at Christmas-time crowds. Arrive a couple of hours before dusk, and stay for the light show. We had a wonderful picnic dinner earlier in the evening along the shores of nearby Horse Thief Lake.

Massacre at Wounded Knee: An ugly reminder of a very ugly event; the details of which are disputed to this day. Even the commemorative plaque has been adjusted over time. The surrounding Pine Ridge Reservation is a living reminder of all that has gone wrong in the treatment of the native population.

Jewel Cave National Monument: Had an excellent oil lantern tour. Went to the less improved portion of the cave. Not a lot of formations, but a nice way to spend a couple of hours, if you like that kind of thing. The "Jewel" part simply refers to gypsum encrusted walls. There is also nearby Wind Cave National Park, which might be more along your planned route.

Can post Wyoming later.

[TimD]

We did a similar trip in 2006. It was just amazing.

I'd suggest flying to Jackson and back from Rapid City, you'll save a lot of driving time.

Jackson - the town is kinda neat. I'd been to the ski area, but a ride up the tram might be fun for the family. The drop-in at Corbet's Couloir is truly sick.

Grand Teton NP - Take the boat across Jenny Lake and hike up a ways.

Yellowstone - Spend at least 2 full days there, 3 if possible. The geothermal activity is incredible. Get up in the middle of the night and look at the stars.

Mt. Rushmore was cool. Deadwood was less so, although there's a small underground mine tour which is very interesting. One can also ride the Mikelson Bike Trail from Deadwood. A very cool shop, Deadwood Bicycles, has unfortunately since closed.

We didn't visit Sturgis but if you are a motorcycle fan you'll surely find some interesting stuff there.

+1 on the Minuteman museum. There's also some cool stuff at Ellsworth AFB. For example, B1-Bs taking off.

+1 on the Badlands. Don't forget to pack the "Nebraska" CD.

Take a pass on Thermopolis.

Devil's Tower is worth the side trip, especially if your kids have not seen "Close Encounters" :)

There's a great hobby shop in Rapid City, and a hotel with a water park just outside the city. Depending on their ages your kids might enjoy both.

One of the best trips we've taken. Have a ball.

Tim

[TimD]

[QUOTE=staggerwing]

... A curious bit of black humor remains preserved on the underground.

/QUOTE]

"... or your next one is free." :) :) :)

[staggerwing]

Yup.

Should have read "...underground vault door." but you obviously knew what I was referring to.

Certainly, best savored in person.

Also, Acme Bicycles has good beta on local conditions, trails, etc. and I believe has some limited rental options.

[dixiesdad]

Mustards Last Stand for a hot dog in Boulder Co :)

[sevencyclist]

These are great information. I will look up these places and try to work some of them into the trip. Thank you and keep them coming.

[nm87710]

Have fun!!

[OtayBW]

You could swing up through the Tetons > Yellowstone and then up into Missoula. From there, take Rt. 12 across the Bitteroots, following the Lochsa River toward Lewiston, ID. Swing down toward SLC on I-84.

The stretch up beyond Missoula is spectacular.

[KeithS]

We are going to do Yellowstone this year for the second time. Our kids are 13 and 10. We live in the Twin Cities so we are coming across ND and through MT, this time we are going to stop at the Custer Battlefield. We stopped at Pompey's Pillar on the way through last time. What a cool crossroads of history. The only remaining physical evidence of the Lewis and Clark expedition is there. "Wm Clark" carved into the limestone. 50 years or so later Custer camped there with his troops before he headed south to his demise. Into Bozeman for a night and a ride with an old friend there then down to Yellowstone. We are spending three nights at the Canyon Cabins in Yellowstone and then three nights at the Jackson Lake Lodge in the Tetons and then back through SD.

My kids loved the Black Hills each time we've been there. We rented a house for a week just south of Lead, on the back of Terry Peak. It was breathtaking. The riding on the Mickelson trail was really fun with the kids too. The Badlands are a must see. We have rented a house again up on the north end of the Black Hills, we used VRBO and have had great luck in the past.

You're going to love it!

[choke]

You've been given lots of good advice IMO.

A couple I didn't see mentioned are drives rather than stops....Spearfish Canyon in SD and Buffalo-Ten Sleep (US 16) in WY. If they aren't out of they way I'd definitely take the time to do them.

[Nautilus]

I'd say Rocky Mountain National Park is worth a visit.

[Norm Swift]

I'm an Eastcoaster, but the wife's family is from South Dakota. Extended family now covers Wyoming, Montana, Colorado and South Dakota.

I'd say nm87710's Post highlights some of the key points that I recall from the trips I have made. Others have filled in the details.

I would just add that the Cody WY Rodeo is a hoot, take a quick stop at Shell Falls/Canyon when heading from Yellowstone to South Dakota and Evan's Plunge in Hot Springs, SD is a sure bet with the kids... my nine-year old son still talks about it from last summer.


Enjoy!

[BengeBoy]

When you are in the national parks, pick up a brochure or book on day hikes. My experience is that even in the busiest National Parks -- even Yellowstone or Grand Teton -- you can easily find a short day hike that takes you beyond all the crowds of tourists. In Yellowstone, 90% of the visitors never set foot outside a parking lot or asphalt trail. My favorite memories of National Parks are almost always when we took a little hike away from all the people.

[victoryfactory]

If I was starting in Denver and flying out of SLC
I would head to Colorado NM Near Grand Junction
Then down to Moab (arches NP, Colorado river, deadhorse point, etc
Then down past Canyonlands NP
over to natural bridges NM
Then over to Bryce NP, then Zion NP
then up to Salt Lake City.
To me, the red rock country is the best. Leave Rushmore for the "tourists"

VF

[tiretrax]

basically, anyplace you pass is great. if you have the time, drive to salt lake city because the west is so varied and you'll appreciate the differences between utah, idaho (if you go up through provo to jackson), wyoming, montana, and south dakota. no one has mentioned wall drugs in south dakota. sure, it's a tourist spot, but i still remember the buffalo burger i ate there in '77.

i have driven across the country several times, and i even stop at geeky attractions and take a picture. friends always get a chuckle (twin arrows outside flagstaff, giant santa on I-64 in southern illinois).

[merlinmurph]

My wife and I are thinking about doing a road trip out west - MT, WY, ID, etc. - and this info gets me all psyched. Pretty much the only time I'm in the Rockies is during the winter for skiing, and I'd love to get a summer trip in.

Thanks for all the info.

[TimD]

I would just add that the Cody WY Rodeo is a hoot...


We really liked our stay in Cody. What a great little town. We had a nice rafting trip on the Shoshone River. Look for bargains at Sierra Trading Post.

Somehow I left this out of my prior post.

[nm87710]

Enjoy!

[spiderman]

don't forget while your out in the hills
to drive and/or bike spearfish canyon...
i'll bring a bike out and stage it for you if you like...
...the other must drive/bike loop is out in custer state park.
start at the game lodge, drive the wilderness loop to blue bell
then out on the hiway toward custer...turn up to sylvan lake
and then back to the game lodge via needles hiway.
absolutely sweet...!
don't forget to hike harney peak, too...
it's a great hike from sylvan lake
...the jewel of the black hills, imho...

[fiamme red]

You could swing up through the Tetons > Yellowstone and then up into Missoula. From there, take Rt. 12 across the Bitteroots, following the Lochsa River toward Lewiston, ID. Swing down toward SLC on I-84.

The stretch up beyond Missoula is spectacular.http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/22/business/energy-environment/22road.html?hp

:(

[michael white]

If I was starting in Denver and flying out of SLC
I would head to Colorado NM Near Grand Junction
Then down to Moab (arches NP, Colorado river, deadhorse point, etc
Then down past Canyonlands NP
over to natural bridges NM
Then over to Bryce NP, then Zion NP
then up to Salt Lake City.
To me, the red rock country is the best. Leave Rushmore for the "tourists"

VF

exactly. it's the greatest concentration of beauty I've seen anywhere.

[buldogge]

Me and a couple buddies did a motorcycle trip early June 2009 on our VFRs from STL.

We headed west thru KS (zzzZZ) and into CO...Hit the Million Dollar Highway amongst other great roads/passes (The Rockies are something else). From there we went to Moab, and took in Arches (gorgeous sunset ride)...passed on into Escalante...Canyonlands, Zion (incredible hiking IN the river), Grand Canyon North Rim (just amazing), Bryce.

Next we slabbed it north to SLC...rode the Alpine Parkway and then on to Logan/Alpine/Jackson...The Grand Tetons offered some great and strenuous hiking at altitude up to an alpine lake and a very cold dip!

Yellowstone was interesting...and it is HUGE...but..it is also packed with slow moving tourists/RVs/etc.

We left Yellowstone and stayed in a cabin just outside the NE gate (Silver Gate)...next morning we rode the Beartooth AND Chief Joseph. There was rain and snow on the top of Beartooth...38deg...mid-June. Both these roads are not to be missed though!

We headed east thru Cody and traversed Bighorn National Forest into Sheridan. Bighorn was a welcome surprise...really nice riding.

We pressed on to Devil's Tower, which is a must see, and then rode some rough construction into Spearfish Canyon...which was nice...but would be awesome by bicycle.

From there we wasted a brief moment in Deadwood (boring) and stopped in Hill City (?....garbage). Following morning we hit Custer SP and Rushmore...Rushmore only got pics taken from the road...very touristy/overblown as others have pointed out. Pressed on thru the Badlands with a necessary (evil) stop at Wall Drug! ;)

Then buckled in for (2) 500 mile days to blast home thru SD (snooze) Nebraska (snooze) and the familiar (MO).

Overall we did 20 days and 5000 miles...saw A LOT of the mountain west and whet my appetite to see a lot more of it...beautiful country.

I would love to take the family on a car trip thru there in the future.

Highly recommended!

-Mark in St. Louis

[Kirk007]

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/22/business/energy-environment/22road.html?hp

:(

I run one of the law shops working to stop this travesty. Picture 12 axles, 96 tires, max speed of 5 miles per hour on curves, on the flat, taking up both lanes, going up and over Lolo Pass, requiring construction of turnouts every ten miles or so along a wild and scenic river/national historic byway, requiring re-routing of utilities, traveling through rural communities, clogging the roads for business persons, emergency vehicles, travelers, cyclists you name it, all so Exxon can make even MORE $$$ while raping Canada's boreal forests and poisoning the lands and waters of its First Nation's communities in the region. Exxon says its a short term project but internal communications are talking about turning this route into an industrial corridor for the next 20-50 years.

[fiamme red]

I run one of the law shops working to stop this travesty. Picture 12 axles, 96 tires, max speed of 5 miles per hour on curves, on the flat, taking up both lanes, going up and over Lolo Pass, requiring construction of turnouts every ten miles or so along a wild and scenic river/national historic byway, requiring re-routing of utilities, traveling through rural communities, clogging the roads for business persons, emergency vehicles, travelers, cyclists you name it, all so Exxon can make even MORE $$$ while raping Canada's boreal forests and poisoning the lands and waters of its First Nation's communities in the region. Exxon says its a short term project but internal communications are talking about turning this route into an industrial corridor for the next 20-50 years.The Wall Street Journal article, as usual, brought out the ignorant knee-jerk anti-conservationists (e.g., "the can-do spirit that built this Republic is on life-support if it is alive at all"). But "Floyd Whitney" (in pages 1 and 2 of the commnets) sets the facts straight.

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304510704575562133577885398.html#a rticleTabs%3Dcomments

[Ozz]

[QUOTE=staggerwing]

... A curious bit of black humor remains preserved on the underground.

/QUOTE]

"... or your next one is free." :) :) :)
I saw this on TV when I was a kid....I had no idea then what they were talking about, but I remembered it....

"About Fallout" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dobys9s9f2w)

Back on topic....I'll second Jackson / Jackson Hole / Grand Teton NP.....gorgeous.