A bike for life

[Derailer]

Imagine this: you're in your 30s and wanting to buy a bike that you will keep for the rest of your days. You will buy other bikes, but this bike will be there for the whole ride. What kind of bike would you buy?

Material:
Construction: (lugged, monocoque, what have you)
Geometry: (what kind of fit would you go for?)
Miscellaneous: (eyelets for fenders, braze-ons, bottle opener...)

[CNY rider]

Get a Serotta Legend that fits you.
It will be there for your future generations.

[cmg]

why? i prefer buying used frames and building them. that's too much fun.

[veggieburger]

Custom built lugged steel cross bike with two bottle cage mounts.

Even if you have to sell all your other bikes, this one can go fast, slow, tour, even go off road.

[Derailer]

Get a Serotta Legend that fits you.
It will be there for your future generations.

It's on my short, short list, along with a frame from Mr. Kirk. If I get a Kirk, I'll be hard pressed to choose between filet brazing and lugged construction.

[Derailer]

Custom built lugged steel cross bike with two bottle cage mounts.

Even if you have to sell all your other bikes, this one can go fast, slow, tour, even go off road.

I think this idea has a lot of merit. A bike that can fill a lot of gaps in the quiver is likely to get a lot of use. I'm curious why you suggested steel over ti.

[John M]

Imagine this: you're in your 30s and wanting to buy a bike that you will keep for the rest of your days. You will buy other bikes, but this bike will be there for the whole ride. What kind of bike would you buy?

Material:
Construction: (lugged, monocoque, what have you)
Geometry: (what kind of fit would you go for?)
Miscellaneous: (eyelets for fenders, braze-ons, bottle opener...)

Ti or steel + neutral geometry + braze-ons for fenders and capacity for larger tires (at least 28mm) = versatility, durability, and a bike that can be ridden anywhere all year round.

For me, it is the Hampsten Strada Bianca Ti I acquired in December. I can't imagine how this bike will ever need to be replaced. I am sure I will own others, but the SB will the one I keep.

[veggieburger]

I think this idea has a lot of merit. A bike that can fill a lot of gaps in the quiver is likely to get a lot of use. I'm curious why you suggested steel over ti.

I have never toured, but I would assume a nice steel lugged bike would handle better than ti under load.

[snah]

I'd have to opt for steel, geometry exactly like my Merckx, with these lugs.
http://www.lugoftheirish.com/Shamrock_Cycles/See_the_frames/Pages/Fluid_Druid-_Road.html#20

[derosa_guy]

I'll never buy a bike with the intention of keeping it for the rest of my life. I'm already married to my wife. I have 3 kids. Those are the things I plan on keeping around for the rest of my life. Bikes are supposed to come and go.

[learlove]

I did it. 33 years old in june of 2008 I tracked down Peter Dreesens, a local builder. He built me a frame I'm pretty sure I'll have for life.

The process was a breeze. I went to his home/shop. We talked about bikes/racing/riding and what I liked/wanted. He looked at me (no rulers) and looked at my then current Merckx ride. 8 months later I pick up my road and track frames. Due to my job I took me another year before i got them on the road/track but all I can say is WOW - everything I always wanted.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=67515

[EDS]

I have never toured, but I would assume a nice steel lugged bike would handle better than ti under load.

Why?

[buck-50]

if the goal were to keep it for the rest of my life, I'd make it fairly neutral and unfocused. braze ons for racks and fenders, comfortable geometry that would allow for the way we change over time- a stem that could be raised or lowered without having to buy a new fork, etc.

I'd try to stay away from any really proprietary technology- I'd keep DT shifter braze ons because, who knows? maybe someday they'll be back? (we are talking about a lifetime bike here.) Probably go with canti brakes- they've been around forever, there will probably always be a supply somewhere. Standard 27.2 seatpost.

Clearance for reasonable tires- say, 32s. Again, what's comfortable at 30 years old might not work when you are 60.

If it was me, I'd go with steel. Ti would probably be even better as it won't rust. Either way I'd go with something easy to repaint. You'd be surprised how much longer a "forever" tool lasts when you can change the color every now and then.

but that's me. And, that's pretty close to what I had built. :beer:

good luck!

[jpw]

Legend CX in a neutral geo with rack attachments. That's what I went for.

[dd74]

I'd go with what I know and love - steel. Even as I have Ti and c/f, in addition to the three lugged steel frames I already have. None of these are custom. Which is why I'd go with Dave Kirk as I also love lugged steel frames. Geometry would be aggressive as any softness that needs to be dialed into the ride, could be handled with tire pressure or wheel change. I'd also want the frame to handle tire sizes up to 25.

The idea of a cross bike isn't a bad one, either.

[tuscanyswe]

I'll never buy a bike with the intention of keeping it for the rest of my life. I'm already married to my wife. I have 3 kids. Those are the things I plan on keeping around for the rest of my life. Bikes are supposed to come and go.


+1
I like this way of thought.

Especially since it means lots of possible sweet bikes in the future and im getting laid atleast 3 times more (alltho with my luck latetly its prolly once resulting in tripplets:) )

[RkyMtn]

Ti is the best material for longevity. I have a Moots Vamoots and it will likely never leave me. Only slight deflection noticed in the BB when pedaling under load, but this is compared to my Pegoretti Marcelo, likely the stiffest bike (lateral stiff) I have ever ridden (including Cannondale).

And the ride is just luscious!

Cheers and good luck with this decision!

Eric

[veloduffer]

I did exactly this when I ordered a Richard Sachs 25th anniversary road bike. I had long lusted after a Sachs and when he built the 20-year version, I got ready for the 25-yr. It was something different than his signature model. I did this while already owning a Merlin and Rivendell.

Geometry wise, I knew what Richard would build was in tune with my desire - a stable handling, slack seat tube, lightweight, fancy lugged road racer. It really is marvelous to ride.

I have since sold and bought other bikes, lucky to have purchased bikes quite similar to my Sachs in geometry (57.5cm seat, 56.5cm top tube).

IMO, I have my dream stable of bikes:
aforementioned Sachs
Kish titanium cyclocross tourer (just finished and delivered a month ago)
Serotta Concours CX cyclocross - for heavy duty cross and winter riding; bought from a forumite
Seven Axiom titanium - race bike, although I'm not racing anymore; if I could find a Legend ti in my size, I would switch.

My outlier is a Specialized Langster - fixies, single. It's a fun bike but I still keep my eye out for a nice steel track/fixie with slack seat angles.

[dekindy]

perfect custom fit
predictable, stable handling
clearance for fenders with 700x28C tires
rack & fender mount points
durable steel or titanium -- a lifetime frame

This is what an editor at RoadBikeRider.com spec'd. He went with a Waterford R-33 custom, tig'd steel. The extra clearance requires long reach breaks.

[dd74]

Not to go OT, but what is the advantage of long reach brakes?

[veloduffer]

Not to go OT, but what is the advantage of long reach brakes?

They provide greater clearance under the brake caliper to accommodate wider tires.

[Derailer]

I like where this thread is headed...I'm starting to envision a bike a lot like Smiley's Bedford, which raises the question: how durable are couplers?

[Waldo]

I have never toured, but I would assume a nice steel lugged bike would handle better than ti under load.

Sorry, but that's just silly. You're not considering frame size, tube wall thicknesses or diameter, and many, many other factors.

[Kirk007]

see the Kirks in my signature. The everyday Kirk was built with this intention. Dave talked me out of putting couplers in it given its intention as an everyday do it all have only one bike gig. So I had to buy another. Love em both. I don't think you can go wrong with Dave on this - his experience, that he likes to ride his road bikes on dirt, his willingness to innovate and think beyond traditional lines and being as tall as I am he gets big bikes right. But there are obviously other fine builders who can do you right. For instance if you had your heart set on ti I'd be calling Steve Hampsten right now about a strada biancha.

[oldpotatoe]

I have never toured, but I would assume a nice steel lugged bike would handle better than ti under load.

Nuthin magic about lugs. Waterford's Adventure cycle or Gunnar Grand Tour tig welded and made for loaded, unsupported touring. Samo for a RTi MNoots MooTour..forever bike for loaded touring. If it's made to tour, it'll handle well loaded.

[shiftyfixedgear]

Nothing is more futile or misguided than trying to figure out what you are going to need "for the rest of your life".

I worked in bike retail for many years. I can remember quite a few customers trying to justify some ridiculous two-wheeled "dreambike" as the "last bike I'll ever have to buy . . . "

Oh yeah . . . do people do this with motorcycles or stereos or dishwashers, also ?

Often times this means that the poor bike is designed to be some sort of do-it-all nightmare compromise : the time-trial bike with disc brakes and clearances for studded snow tires . . . or the loaded touring bike that needs to have a 11" plus BB height because the buyer also wants to be able to ride on his local 200 meter board track. Okay, I'm exaggerating slightly.

But they are always back within a few years to start the process all over again.

Why is it so hard for some people to accept that their needs, abilities, and taste will change as they age. The target turns out to be moving.

[Derailer]

Nothing is more futile or misguided than trying to figure out what you are going to need "for the rest of your life".

I worked in bike retail for many years. I can remember quite a few customers trying to justify some ridiculous two-wheeled "dreambike" as the "last bike I'll ever have to buy . . . "

Oh yeah . . . do people do this with motorcycles or stereos or dishwashers, also ?

Often times this means that the poor bike is designed to be some sort of do-it-all nightmare compromise : the time-trial bike with disc brakes and clearances for studded snow tires . . . or the loaded touring bike that needs to have a 11" plus BB height because the buyer also wants to be able to ride on his local 200 meter board track. Okay, I'm exaggerating slightly.

But they are always back within a few years to start the process all over again.

Why is it so hard for some people to accept that their needs, abilities, and taste will change as they age. The target turns out to be moving.

Why is it so hard for some people to read?

[veggieburger]

Quote:
Originally Posted by veggieburger
I have never toured, but I would assume a nice steel lugged bike would handle better than ti under load.

Why?

Honestly, it's just what I know, and I like the aesthetics of a lugged frame. I would like to try titanium someday, but call me a retro-grouch...there's just something visually 'right' about a lugged frame with a few bits of chrome.

[Elefantino]

Ti.

The rest is details.

[csm]

[I]
Honestly, it's just what I know, and I like the aesthetics of a lugged frame. I would like to try titanium someday, but call me a retro-grouch...there's just something visually 'right' about a lugged frame with a few bits of chrome.

funny, I think of myself as a bit of a retro-grouch riding an all-ti legend.

[retrogrouchy]

Great question. Very difficult to answer for even a majority of riders. There are just too many variables. As a road rider, for me personally, it would be a non-oversized lugged steel road frameset with 700C wheels and pretty light-gauge tubing. Steel can be easily repaired if you crash, can be repainted every decade or so during its perhaps hundred-year lifespan, and just has a certain 'feel' to it that no other material has, atmo. I would make sure that it was set up for 57 mm reach brakes (we used to call those normal-reach, btw) to allow enough clearance for, say, 32 mm tires with fenders if the need ever arose in the future. You could still run it with 21 mm tubulars now (or not) without any issues. The tough part would be trying to decide which builder's line to get into! Then there's all the geometry, tubing, and braze-on details, but the right builder can guide you through all of that and more.

[Unidentifiable]

Material: Probably Steel for it's fixability and adjustability (ability to add mounts, etc. after the fact), Ti would be a consideration.

Geometry: Neutral road/cross, something that I could rebuild to suit different purposes or could use as an all-arounder

Construction: welded of some sort. I don't particularly care (though I think lugs are pretty) and since I'm an odd size welding (over lugs) would give me more geometry options.

Misc: compatibility with disk, cross, and road brakes (versatility), maybe rack mounts, Disk & single speed compatible dropouts (sorry, don't know the technical term), something unique.

[learlove]

does it even have to be custom?

I know a guy who has had an AL Vitus with 6 speed mavic since 1988 (22 years and counting).

While this guy has other bikes I'd say he has put an average of 5000 miles per year on the Vitus. He even replaced the seat tube and still going strong.

[retrogrouchy]

That's cool. My wife's main bike is lugged steel and from 1981, and she bought it new. She'll probably still be riding it twenty years from now, I suppose....

[weaponsgrade]

For me it would be steel. Lugged or fillet. I like the feel of sidepull brakes more than canti's so if there's no dirt riding involved I'd spec sidepull brakes. Clearance for a 28 tire with fenders. Braze-ons for downtube shifters. A nice high-end steel tube set, but nothing too thin like S3. No fades. Either timeless panel paint job or some head tube, seat tube thing.

[dogdriver]

The only responsible answer to this question is the time-honored, "It Depends". All good comments above-- try to ride bikes made steel and ti, both of similar geometry, to get a feel for the differences that the materials make in the ride. When I built my "lifetime" road bike last year, I went for Ti for its durablity, but expect that a well cared-for steel bike would last forever.

But since you asked, I'd go for a nice road ride with neutral geometry, good components (also to your preference, the top three levels of the "big three" manufacturers are all excellent), and a durable, non-weight-weenie, wheelset. If you travel, consider S&S couplers and you'll never rent a bike or pay stupid oversize charges again.

Then again, a cross bike is versatile, a single speed is good for making easy rides hard and expanding your power output range, there's the whole fixie world, a town beater is worth having, a 29er hardtail is hard to beat (which opens the door to the whole "monstercross" genre', which may be the most useful all-around ride ever), a bomber freeride bike will do anything off road (of course, why generalize-- you might as well get a snappy XC bike and a 50 pound downhill-specific ride, which will require a room full of body armor and a new helmet), a and tandem works for those days you want to go with a kid or a friend who can't hammer like you can. Of course, you need a snow bike if you live somewhere with winter or a beach cruiser if you're near the ocean.

Oh yeah-- one bike? Good luck!

[LesMiner]

As an example, I have a friend that purchased a custom steel frame in 1974. He has consistently riden it for the last 36 years. He has kept up with new technology by having the rear spread to accomdate the wider wheel mounting. He put on a carbon fork, new headset, and stem. He has had a variety of components, campy, Shimano, Suntour, SRAM, etc. Just recently he had the frame repainted. The original builder has long since passed away. He did find another builder that had bought all the old stock. So he was able to get a new set of the original decals. It is the bike he holds as the standard when ever he considers a new bike. He has purchased a number of new bikes that he swaps out parts then he may part it out and sell it off. He then buys another new one. But he still maintains the old steel bike. I can not tell if his riding performance is any different between the old steel and a new carbon. The old steel is heavier but light weight is not everything. At times he can jump up and out sprint me. He can sure make it a challenge climbing a hill. I asked why do you keep this old steel frame? He maintains that the geometry of the fit is superior to anything.

A bike for life should first be a properly fit frame. Secondly material choice, thirdly components, and then perhaps wheels. Who knows what technology change there will be in the future. Electronically controlled drivetrain is now emerging as a viable product. It could become the future standard or evaporate. The basic fit and riding position will not change that much.

[dancinkozmo]

....i'd opt for a quill stem...imho it looks nicer and as my position would change over the years , it could be easily adjusted.
(that being said im up to 7 bikes right now :eek: )

[TC Johnson]

Les,

Did that frame builder your friend used in '74 happen to be Terry Ossell? I am originally from MSP and used to visit his shop in St. Anthony before I was shipped out east. He had some amazing bikes and frames of his in the shop, and was among the most respected of the local builders. Wish I could find one.

As far as a lifetime bike, I may want one type of bike (or bikes) today, and have very different needs or desires as the years go on. Unless you are doing loaded touring for the foreseeable future, a seriously well built race frame would always fit into whatever group or charity ride you might do.

However, I think music and art can pose similar questions. I would no more want to listen to one single song or look at only one painting for the rest of my life as ride only one bike. Variety is the spice of life! :banana:

TC

[TimD]

Hard to argue with a Legend Ti, depending.

[LesMiner]

Les,

Did that frame builder your friend used in '74 happen to be Terry Ossell? I am originally from MSP and used to visit his shop in St. Anthony before I was shipped out east. He had some amazing bikes and frames of his in the shop, and was among the most respected of the local builders. Wish I could find one.

As far as a lifetime bike, I may want one type of bike (or bikes) today, and have very different needs or desires as the years go on. Unless you are doing loaded touring for the foreseeable future, a seriously well built race frame would always fit into whatever group or charity ride you might do.

However, I think music and art can pose similar questions. I would no more want to listen to one single song or look at only one painting for the rest of my life as ride only one bike. Variety is the spice of life! :banana:

TC

My friend also has an old Ossell. He set it up as a rain bike, fenders and all. The bike in question was Barringer, I think that spelling is right.

[veloduffer]

....i'd opt for a quill stem...imho it looks nicer and as my position would change over the years , it could be easily adjusted.
(that being said im up to 7 bikes right now :eek: )

+1 I had the choice when I ordered my Sachs and opted for a quill. The -17 degree quill stem is the most elegant look, IMO.

[weisan]

+1 I had the choice when I ordered my Sachs and opted for a quill. The -17 degree quill stem is the most elegant look, IMO.

Go for 1 1/8, and if the need ever arise, CK Devolution will allow quill retrofit.

One thing that didn't get mentioned so far is I would want the bike to be painted and decal'ed to give it the classic, and timeless look that will last a lifetime or even cross generations. What that looks like -- I am open to suggestions :D

[Brian Smith]

Ok, I know that I'm unusual in some respects.
One thing I don't get though is the distinction of "bike for life."

My read is one of two things:

Either that means "best bike ever" and hence you'd never WANT another bike - in which case I call B.S.

Or it means a bike that "lasts forever" as if people usually part with bikes rather quickly because their condition declines quickly - in which case I call B.S.

Most of all, I think that some quality-minded bike makers at one time or another latched onto some marketing-ish minded technique of referring to their bikes as "lifetime bikes" and now people sometimes think that satisfying their wants for a new bike with something called a "lifetime bike" is an acceptable outlet for their money in a time more lean than others.

Hey, whatever marketing tactic reaches you, that's fine, but I own bikes that run the gamut from crappy to superlative, and most scary of all propositions is the prospect that I must solely limit myself to one "lifetime bike."

To me this ride called life is about continuing to gain appreciation for this or that facet of what is possible, not finding something that simply won't become worn before I'm done with it. I think most people on this forum are onto rides that are above simply the bare minimum ride which will keep them upright and rolling. If I'm done with being able to buy another bike soon, I'm cool with just thinking I'm out of the game for a time. I'm OK with what I can justify/afford not being everything that I can imagine or desire. Certainly I'll still manage to be able to throw a leg over something that's not going to fall apart before I'm done with it. If I wanted a bike that simply would retain its "newness" longer, I'd choose one, such as a Serotta*, that is not going to be dismissed next year as "last year's model" simply because it's not that current model year's production.

Any bike is going to wear out tires, drivetrains, etc. Nobody fails to call these bikes "lifetime" on that basis. For quality frames, and even some others, there's no reason that some common failure points can't also be addressed within their lifespans. That doesn't make them, in my opinion, fail to be "lifetime" bikes. Bicycles are simply not a thing that you buy that is to remain "au courant" throughout your life. That's not such a hard thing to accept nor with which to deal. You really can get another someday.

*Hey, I work there, I'm a little biased. Who couldn't use more business. They're great bikes.

[bicycletricycle]

I got this rivendell awhile ago as kind of a fling, fancy lugs, touring geometry , nice big headtube, clearence for 40mm tires, I don't think that I will ever get rid of it, if I put on some skinny tires it's a road bike in a pinch, fenders for the winter, cx tires in the mountains, racks when I tour, it is perfect. If I lost it I would not hesitate getting the same exact bike again. I think that anybike you plan to keep forever has to b reaaly comfortable , I had this teacher who built a house that he planned to live in forever, he was 45 at the time. There isn't one set of stairs on the whole property, just ramps, everyone gets old and for most of us that will mean higher handlebars.

[retrogrouchy]

Ok, I know that I'm unusual in some respects.
One thing I don't get though is the distinction of "bike for life."

My read is one of two things:

Either that means "best bike ever" and hence you'd never WANT another bike - in which case I call B.S.

Or it means a bike that "lasts forever" as if people usually part with bikes rather quickly because their condition declines quickly - in which case I call B.S.

Most of all, I think that some quality-minded bike makers at one time or another latched onto some marketing-ish minded technique of referring to their bikes as "lifetime bikes" and now people sometimes think that satisfying their wants for a new bike with something called a "lifetime bike" is an acceptable outlet for their money in a time more lean than others.

Hey, whatever marketing tactic reaches you, that's fine, but I own bikes that run the gamut from crappy to superlative, and most scary of all propositions is the prospect that I must solely limit myself to one "lifetime bike."

To me this ride called life is about continuing to gain appreciation for this or that facet of what is possible, not finding something that simply won't become worn before I'm done with it. I think most people on this forum are onto rides that are above simply the bare minimum ride which will keep them upright and rolling. If I'm done with being able to buy another bike soon, I'm cool with just thinking I'm out of the game for a time. I'm OK with what I can justify/afford not being everything that I can imagine or desire. Certainly I'll still manage to be able to throw a leg over something that's not going to fall apart before I'm done with it. If I wanted a bike that simply would retain its "newness" longer, I'd choose one, such as a Serotta*, that is not going to be dismissed next year as "last year's model" simply because it's not that current model year's production.

Any bike is going to wear out tires, drivetrains, etc. Nobody fails to call these bikes "lifetime" on that basis. For quality frames, and even some others, there's no reason that some common failure points can't also be addressed within their lifespans. That doesn't make them, in my opinion, fail to be "lifetime" bikes. Bicycles are simply not a thing that you buy that is to remain "au courant" throughout your life. That's not such a hard thing to accept nor with which to deal. You really can get another someday.

*Hey, I work there, I'm a little biased. Who couldn't use more business. They're great bikes.

I think perhaps you've misunderstood the spirit of this thread. It' really just a mental excercise, you know, for fun....

[dmurphey]

Indy Fab Club Racer
Paul Centerpull Brakes
Light steel tig welded frame, 853 & TT OX Plat tubing
Steel fork
Joe Young wheels
Brooks saddle
Campy gruppo
I am just putting the final touches on this. I will ride it a long time. I dont think it can be beat.

[Derailer]

Indy Fab Club Racer
Paul Centerpull Brakes
Light steel tig welded frame, 853 & TT OX Plat tubing
Steel fork
Joe Young wheels
Brooks saddle
Campy gruppo
I am just putting the final touches on this. I will ride it a long time. I dont think it can be beat.

this sounds like a sweet ride. please post pics when it's done. if i went this route, i'd be mighty tempted to run barend shifters, just 'cause.

[Brian Smith]

I think perhaps you've misunderstood the spirit of this thread. It' really just a mental excercise, you know, for fun....

Coool....

[NHAero]

Thirty eight years ago I had a custom Bob Jackson Olympus made. Clearance for chunky tires, front and rear rack mounts, 73/73 angles, wheelbase close to 41 inches. A surprisingly light steel frame, with beautiful longpoint lugs, long BB and fork crown lug tangs, and diamond reinforcements at the brake and chainstay bridges. Been repainted twice. I wish it fit better now at (my) age 56 - I'd prefer a shorter top tube. I put on a very short stem, changed out the Campy Record seatpost when I realized it was a setback (duh), and I'm almost at the same riding position as my Concours Ti. The rear was spread years ago to accommodate a 130mm hub, and I run a 27 speed set-up with DA barcons. Since I have the Serotta, I have the Jackson set up with fenders and a rack. I have all the old Campy stuff in a box, yet at this point only the headset is Campy. I recently put the Tektro R556 extra long reach brakes on, because they accommodate the fenders so well. It's been built up many ways over the years, from touring to tubulars.

I have several bikes yet riding this one always puts a smile on my face. It's a lifetime bike for sure!

Photo at:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=738350&postcount=11

[Kirk007]

I think perhaps you've misunderstood the spirit of this thread. It' really just a mental excercise, you know, for fun....

Well I mostly agree but when I worked with Mr. Kirk on my first frame from him it was with a similar thought in mind: If I went a minimalist route, and decided to keep only one bike, what would it be like? So I went from theory to application.

I've since bought 2 more road bikes and switched out mountain bikes and will continue to probably buy bikes, but I anticipate I will always have this everyday Kirk. It is an exemplary bike in every venue that I use a road bike in, including nontechnical trails. It is versatile. I like it aesthetically. Sure the components and wheels etc will change, but the frame and fork - its a keeper for life.

[Steevo]

When I went down this route, after years of reading here, I was influenced by the all-rounder & country bike discussions. After while, I knew what I wanted aesthtically and functionally, and the builder took care of the geometry, etc.

I wanted a Dave Kirk lugged frame w/ Richieissimo lugs and the DK signature seat cluster. I knew I wanted room for larger tires for dirt roads. I wanted rack and fender braze ons. I wanted an everyday road bike that could be at home on dirt roads or a light overnight tour. Dave nailed the design and build. Joe Bell delivered the classic panel paint. I have a great frame (Kirk #162), that I expect to be riding for many years to come.

I've been very slow in accumulating the build parts, part to savor the fun of the process and part economics. I expect to have the frame built up in a month or so, and will post photos & ride reports when I can.