OT: Mind your beeswax and offer your wood finishing ideas...

[Kevan]

Once again I beg counsel with my Serottanian brethren and sistuhs. My wife and I just purchased a dining table that requires refinishing. Here’s a link regarding its make: http://www.cb2.com/family.aspx?c=11020&f=4662

In the link you can see by the photo that the surface appears to be walnut colored, the general direction my wife wants it to go. In fact, when the table is delivered it looks considerably blonder in color. More links which I just discovered during the preparation of this write up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fraying/3773805384/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fraying/3772999767/in/photostream/

So my wife wants the table’s finish to darken and I would like to avoid using any type of staining agent to get it there, letting time and use be the guide. I also want the surface protected from red wine spills, soy sauce splashes, and salad tossings; so basically I want it all. The salespeople suggest using beeswax, without providing much more advise than that. I’ve combed Google and read about all kinds of recipes, to the point where I’m confused as to which way to go. I've read good things about tung oil, essentially being both water and stain proof to the surface (which is a very good thing), but takes a long time to dry and doesn’t help darken wood (a not so good thing). So the recipe search continued on and on…

Based on one recipe, I went to a hardware store and bought 3 small bricks of hardened yellowish bee’s wax and a pint each of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Recipes suggest than you warm the ingredients gently on the stove (!!! – When do I add the cherries, and can I borrow your flameproof suit?) and blend them, carefully. Apparently, beeswax is particularly prone to flaming out, so they suggest using a double boiler in order to melt the stuff. I figured I could just as easily use a microwave, reducing the bricks to a puddle and then blend it into the oil/turp mix. Application is done while the mixture is still warm, using a clean cotton rag (sans chain stains – note cycling content).

You people never disappoint, so whatcha say?

And thank you...

[dave thompson]

Forget the beeswax...Framesaver!

[Ti Designs]

The finish used on any wood depends largely on the wood itself. I've just finished a few knife handles in wenge, black palm and walnut burl and had to use different finishes on all three. Much like seeking advice in the bike industry, it's all about finding the right guy. I found a guy at my local Rockler store who knows finishing products a little too well...

[AndrewS]

Also keep in mind that wood darkens over time and exposure to light. I'd put it in a bright room for a month, then decide if it is too light.

I'm surprised anyone could make a table out of railroad tie wood. Most of that was soaked in creosote.

[Hardlyrob]

Hi Kevan;

I've been building furniture on a hobby and part-time business basis for over 20 years.

I know nothing about Saal as a wood species. Some darken with exposure to light (cherry) or oxygen (Maple and pine) over time, some don't (birch), and some get lighter (walnut). I have no idea what Saal will do.

For an appropriate finish on a surface with character, you definitely want a "close to the surface" finish - meaning something that is absorbed into the wood vs. something that sits on top of the wood and forms its own surface - varnish, poly, shellac etc.

Given that, you should look at Waatco Danish Oil, Waatco Teak oil, and any of the Waterlox finishes. These are types of varnish that absorb into the wood, and build up with additional coats - usually 5 to 10 coats. They provide very good resistance to stains and spills, but are not so good against UV. You can also tint these wipe on finishes with small amounts of oil based stains in the initial coats to get the color you want.

Forget the beeswax - it is relatively soft, so it will need to be reapplied a couple times a year, and it won't give you the stain resistance you are looking for. The best waxes for furniture are car waxes - a high carnuba content in Meiguiars, or Turtle Wax works wonders. The butcher's pure floor wax is also great, but doesn't wear quite as well. If you go the car wax route DO NOT use the can you already have open in the garage - it will have picked up pigment from your car / bikes (like that orange Ebisu) and will add that to your dining room table (don't ask how I learned that little tidbit).

If you do want to go the straight wax route there is another old time trick to add color to a wax finish - shoe polish. They are simply colored waxes, so if you put a little on to get the color you want then follow it up with several coats of carnuba or butcher's you can get where you want to go.

One last note - whatever you do, experiment on the underside of the table first - there is no telling how that wood will take finishes and colors, so be cautious.

Let us know how it works out.

Cheers!

Rob

[Ti Designs]

If you go the car wax route DO NOT use the can you already have open in the garage - it will have picked up pigment from your car / bikes (like that orange Ebisu) and will add that to your dining room table (don't ask how I learned that little tidbit).


There's nothing wrong with BRG tinted maple...

[Hardlyrob]

There's nothing wrong with BRG tinted maple...

It all depends on what the client had in mind...

[Ti Designs]

Just as long as you're not pushing table lamps with Lucas electronics...

[LesMiner]

Briwax is another choice. It comes in different colors. It has a number of different waxes in it as well a small amount of varnish. Your best bet is to wipe down the table with a cloth dampened with Mineral Spirts or Paint Thinner to remove the other wax. Then apply Briwax as directed. Complete description and directions at the Briwax website (http://www.briwax.co.uk/products/briwax.html) Rockler and other wood finish supply retailers carry it.

Watco or Deft Danish Oil contains lenseed oil along with a stain. It comes in natural and colors. It is typically used like a wipe on varnish with stain. Typically lenseed oil will turn Walnut noticably darker and some other woods as well. The lenseed oil takes 3 days to fully cure. In terms of durability, Watco is far less robust then a varnish of polyurethane. There are professional furniture makers that use it but they might put on multiple coats. I know of one that put on 50 coats. It will not hold up to water or alcohol. Not a good choice for table you plan to use for meals everyday.

[guyintense]

Good advise Rob, the only thing I would add is when you do decide on a finish make sure you use the same finish on both sides of the table.

[wasfast]

It's not surprising that the exact color is different. Given the source, the wood likely varies considerably since they weren't too picky about quality/type of wood going into RR ties.

Pentrating finishes like Watco, Tung Oil etc are easy to apply, very difficult to do poorly and dry relatively quickly. Even with Briwax applied, you aren't making the surface water/spill proof. It also requires reapplication on a somewhat regular (6 months or so) basis if you are using the table a lot.

Briwax does come with stain in it if you want more darkness than the natural version provides. Be aware that the solvent in Briwax is rather smelly and you'll be using quite a bit on a table so use outdoors if possible.

Barring a coating on top of the wood, you won't get any control on UV or waterproofness. Likely you want a "natural" look to the gloss/appearance so even using a flat or satin finish won't stay that way. Those are created by taking the gloss version and adding flattener to them so with use, the finish will buff up in the use areas to a more glossy version.

[veloduffer]

My parents have been refinishing furniture for years and use Tung Oil to good effect.

[Steve in SLO]

You might want to turn the table upside down and try several of the finishes suggested above on the underside of the top. You might avoid a mistake that way.

[Kevan]

The advice flowed from here, there and everywhere and I've settled on trying Howard Feed-N-Wax. I'll show you the end results when we get the room put together. Thanks again.

Oh, one last thing...it was always my intention to do a test using the underneath side, but I appreciate your heads-up.

[johnnymossville]

My dad has pretty good luck with just linseed oil on the gun stocks he makes, though I'm not sure if that's all he uses. I've gotta ask.

[William]

My parents have been refinishing furniture for years and use Tung Oil to good effect.

Apply...

Once a day for a week
then
Once a week for a month
then
Once a month for a year

I did this with some ball canes that I made and they came out beautiful.



William

[SEABREEZE]

Briwax is another choice. It comes in different colors. It has a number of different waxes in it as well a small amount of varnish. Your best bet is to wipe down the table with a cloth dampened with Mineral Spirts or Paint Thinner to remove the other wax. Then apply Briwax as directed. Complete description and directions at the Briwax website (http://www.briwax.co.uk/products/briwax.html) Rockler and other wood finish supply retailers carry it.

Watco or Deft Danish Oil contains lenseed oil along with a stain. It comes in natural and colors. It is typically used like a wipe on varnish with stain. Typically lenseed oil will turn Walnut noticably darker and some other woods as well. The lenseed oil takes 3 days to fully cure. In terms of durability, Watco is far less robust then a varnish of polyurethane. There are professional furniture makers that use it but they might put on multiple coats. I know of one that put on 50 coats. It will not hold up to water or alcohol. Not a good choice for table you plan to use for meals everyday.


Les miner is giving you sound advice
BRIWAX AND NOT BEESAWAX would definately be the way to go to get the desired color you are looking to get.
A little experimenting as to zone into the shade closest to your desired color.
Hopefully you have a simular piece of wood to test on , if not use the bottom of the legs of the table.

There are a lot of reproductive country pine furniture makers over in England that are the pros at this. I learned from them.

There is also a powder/ water mix that also acheives the same thing, and you hit it with a clear coat, which absolutely doesnt change your desired color. I just cant remember the name of the product.
The nice thing about it, you never need to wax, as the finish is protected with the clear coat.

[benjs]

Kevan, I just ordered the same table and I'm really curious to know how yours turned out and what you ended up using. Did you end up going with the Howard feed-n-wax? Can you post some pics?

[zray67]

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[phcollard]

Forget the beeswax - it is relatively soft, so it will need to be reapplied a couple times a year, and it won't give you the stain resistance you are looking for.

Rob is right :)

I was an acoustic guitarmaker several years ago and I have finished a lot of wood furniture too.

You will find this surprising but for your table I would go with a product from Ikea. It's called Behandla (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50070378) and it's an emulsion of several oils. It's very easy to apply and three coats will last forever. I have a kitchen countertop made of solid wood finished with Behandla and it can take whatever you throw at it : tomatoes, coffee, you name it.

It's been five years since I applied the finish. I cook every evening and it's still looking great, and has taken a nice warm dark tone. If I ever ding or scratch the wood I do a small touch-up and voilà.

Plus it's environmental friendly, does not smell... I am sure it could be FDA approved :D