Extending the life of older shoes – suggestions for working around unusable threads?

[RPS]

I have a pair of Shimano shoes which fit nicely and are still in good shape, except that when replacing the Look cleats prior to giving them to my son I found the bolts had corroded over a long period of time (they got very little use). When I couldn’t back them out I made the mistake of cutting the cleat off to relieve the pressure on the bolts thinking it would make it easier, and also to allow me to use different tools to grab the head. Anyway, the problem is that I wasn’t able to break one bolt loose before the insert broke loose from the shoe. I can now cut the bolt off to remove it but it leaves me one “Look” bolt short.

I could still use the shoes with SPD cleats since those threads are OK, but I have other MTB shoes for that where the cleat is recessed for walking around which I like better. I’m willing to try different ideas since if I can’t salvage them they’ll go in the trash. Experimenting isn’t out of the question, and may even be fun.

Are there SPD to Look/Shimano cleat adaptors that would work here? I have Look to SPD adaptors, but haven’t seen the opposite.

I doubt I’m the first to run into this problem, so I’m curious what solutions others found, or tried before giving up.

[AndrewS]

1. Exustar Look style cleats came with some sort of SPD adapter plate, but that might be for recessed shoes. Actually, I just looked - the Look cleat is drilled for SPD and the added plate was to fill in if the SPD area was recessed. I think you could use those, but I looked around and couldn't find any.

2. I think you could permanently fix this shoe. The original Look set-up called for Tee Nuts (http://www.hudsonfasteners.com/nuts.htm) You drilled your shoes for them. Drill out the old hardware enough to accomodate a modified one of these and maybe use a little epoxy or JB weld to stick it in place and smooth out the insole. Even a regular nut with a wide washer underneath would work if they are thin enough, but the Tee Nuts with the spikes cut off would be the best.

3. Quick: Find a thin bolt with a very wide flat head in the furniture hardware section at home depot. Put the head on the inside of the shoe and a bolt in side the cleat recesses. Cut the bolt off flush.

4. Drill the cleat and countersink in the center area of the cleat for the SPD screws, and use both the SPD screws and the two remaining Look screws.

[PaulE]

Remove the shoe's insole and see if there is a flap that can open up to give you access to the threaded inserts. If there is, you may see just "dotted lines" that you need to cut through all the way with a utility knife. Cut three sides of the triange and use a small screwdriver to pry the flap up, giving you access to the threaded inserts, which you then should be able to push out and replace. That's how it is with Sidi's, anyway. Replacement Sidi inserts are readily available. I don't know about inserts for Shimano's but if you can get the old one out, I'm sure you can cobble one up with a hacksaw and file to get it in there.

I just looked at Shimano.com's tech documents for shoes. At least one of their shoes is like this and I bet they all are. Take a look here and see if you can find your model:

Shimano Tech Doc's for shoes (http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp;jsessionid=906gL1yMS3JQT5mfT5B9CJZCt2Jk hjMC2W1GpJbLPLvyChZfLGyb!-1300677160?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051173&bmUID=1266018316246)

And if that doesn't work, you can look into getting a helicoil insert into the stripped threads and using a different bolt.

[regularguy412]

I successfully resurrected my Shimano carbon sole shoes by replacing a faulty threaded insert with a tee nut. The original insert had become increasingly difficult from which to remove the cleat bolt due to excessive sweat/rain riding that caused rust. The insert began to 'turn' inside the shoe. After removing the insole, the covering in the bottom of the shoe showed to have 3 small flaps already cut in. I just pried up the flap over the affected insert and just popped it out. I cut, then filed almost flat, the prongs on a tee nut -- as I discovered that I didn't feel comfortable trying to force the prongs into the carbon fiber.

I found no need to try and glue or otherwise affix the tee nut inside the sole. Now, I just make sure I coat the cleat bolts with anti-seize.

Mike in AR:beer:

[RPS]

The original insert had become increasingly difficult from which to remove the cleat bolt due to excessive sweat/rain riding that caused rust. The insert began to 'turn' inside the shoe. After removing the insole, the covering in the bottom of the shoe showed to have 3 small flaps already cut in.
This is what is happening – the insert rotates when torque is applied. However, in my shoes (they're probably much older) the inserts (or nuts) are sandwiched between the inner and outer shoe soles with no way to access them.

When looking for a way to replace the insert I noticed there is what appears to be a thin metal plate between the inner and outer soles that also acts as a sliding guide for the SPD backing plate that moves back and forth for adjustment. Thinking the inserts where probably like a Tee nut I installed an SPD cleat and tighten it in the furthest back position to help compress the area around the Tee Nut (hoping to pinch the prongs) and then used vice grips instead of an adjustable wrench to pull on the bolt as I turned it. Doing this I was able to break the bolt loose and remove it. I think with a little luck I can install a new bolt since the pressure of tightening will help keep the insert from turning.

I now have to remove the cleat from the other shoe. I tried again yesterday and ruined another Craftsman screwdriver, so I’m going to try grinding the cleat away from around the bolts (instead of cutting it off as before) and then grind or file flat spots on the head so I can use an adjustable wrench for leverage on the bolts. If that doesn’t work I’ll have to cut the cleat off as I did with the other shoe to use vice grips.


Thanks all for the suggestions; it appears to have led to saving one shoe. Hopefully I can save the other one too.

[regularguy412]

...snipped:
I think with a little luck I can install a new bolt since the pressure of tightening will help keep the insert from turning.



It likely will hold tight, after you 'get' it tight. However, the next removal will be more difficult. Be sure to use some anti-seize on the bolt threads.

Mike in AR:beer: