LBS cut steerer tube before fitting

[3cb]

I bought a used commuter bike (Soma Smoothie ES) and I picked up a few goodies over the past months. I brought the bike in for a fitting and to install some parts, primarily a new fork (non-branded Bontrager Satellite Plus from ebay). I was very clear when I brought the bike in that I did not want a rising stem--the original set-up had the stem rising because the original fork was cut too low. I also brought in a second stem in case the first one was too long.

When I arrived this evening for the fitting, the fork had already been cut and installed, based on the spacers that were already on the bike. And the stem was rising! They measured me and dialed me in. For the fitting, their criteria for the stem placement was that the handlebar line-of-sight should align with the front hub when I look down (hands on hoods). When set up, I could still see the QR cam & nut, above the handlebar, so it was not an exact fit but there was nothing left to adjust.

When I told him that I did not like the looks of the rising stem, he flipped it. Now I could see even more of the hub above the handlebars.

The owner measured the stack height (25mm) and then told me that was pretty much the maximum that could be used. This fork has an aluminum steerer tube. A quick internet search suggests that up to 40mm should be no problem.

The owner ended the session by telling me to go ride and then provide feedback. He will tweak things based on my input. On this point he was very nice.

The thing is that I am not yet much of a rider so I would probably not know the difference between a passable vs a really well dialed in bike. And this bike is used for a relatively short commute (8.5 miles/30 minutes, each way) to and from work. But a big reason why I paid for a fitting was to make sure the fork was cut to the proper length.

I am not sure how to handle this.

[caleb]

You brought it in with 25mm of spacers and told them to install it? I'd say it's pretty reasonable for them to assume you want it cut for 25mm of spacers and to measure accordingly. Unless you told them you wanted 40mm of spacers under the stem explicitly, I don't know that they've done anything wrong. I don't mean to be overly blunt about it, but I'd say your options are to ride it as is or flip the stem. I'm sorry to hear you're unhappy, but I'm not sure it's the shop's fault.

One tangential note, good shops don't fit bikes by the "can you see the front hub?" rule. If you paid more than $20 for such a fit you paid too much.

[rcnute]

Shop owes you a fork.

[richpur]

If you were paying for a fitting on bike you were riding and providing a new fork for that purpose it was premature for the shop to cut the new fork to the old dimensions without first actually seeing what you needed. They provided essentially the old fit and appearance with new parts and charged you for it. Sounds illogical, unreasonable, incompetent and pointless. They owe you a fork and a re-fit, if you trust still trust them. :no:

[vqdriver]

Shop owes you a fork.

+1

[nahtnoj]

The shop has no clue how to do a proper fit.

But (no offense here) it doesn't sound like you know enough about how you want to feel on the bike to know whether or not what they did is actually wrong for you. You wanted (if I am reading correctly) the stem and spacer arrangement based on aesthetic priorities, not fitment needs. I don't think that alone is basis enough to warrant a new fork, especially one that you did not purchase from them.

I would ride the bike, experiment with you setup by making small changes one at a time, and, once you have enough experience with how you want the bike to feel, go get your fit looked at by someone who actually knows what they are doing.

[c-record]

Bummer. I'd agree that it sounds as if the shop messed up.

[vqdriver]

What's wrong with aesthetic priorities? Dude bought a new fork specifically to get a flat stem with enough rise.

[JeffS]

The bigger issue is that the shop is incapable of fitting you correctly. The whole "cover the axle with the handlebar" thing is gradeschool.

[3cb]

Admittedly I don't really know how I want this bike to feel--so no offense taken. This is my commuter bike--with fenders and a pannier on the back. I have no idea how it should feel, yet. My point was that I paid (not much) for a fitting so that they would do things like play with the stack height. When I brought the bike in I told them that I had all the parts, including a few stems to try out and that the only parts that I would likely need would be some extra spacers.

My other bike is a vamoots sl. I got fitted for that bike at a reputable store in Manhattan (my LBS is in NJ) and I paid for that fitting around the same as what I paid for my commuter (used). My main objective with my LBS was to get the fork cut and installed properly. Paying a modest fee for their basic fitting seemed like a reasonable way to ensure that. If I didn't like his results, I figured I could revert to the set-up on my moots. Again, I have no idea how differently a commuter should be set up.

Regarding nahtnoj's post: 1) This should never have ended up being a choice between aesthetics and fitment needs. 2) It's true I did not buy the fork there, but I did buy a nice bike for my son there a few weeks ago. I made a point to give him some "real business" before I brought in my own stuff for him to install.

[TBDSeattle]

I've worked in shops for a couple of years and I've had bikes set up for me by shops before. I am not the expert that some on this forum are, but I've done my wrenching.

I'd say that this is a bit of a gray area.

If someone came in to my shop and with 25m of spacers and a stem asking me to put a bike together for them to ride-- I'd cut the fork to fit. If they came in for a fit-- I'd fill up the fork with spacers from the shop and then do the fit.

Unless you specifically told them not to cut the fork you may be out of luck. I understand that you implicitly said that by saying that you want the stem to be level and that you were not sure which stem to use. But unless it was clear then you may have gotten a cut fork with nobody really to blame.

I'm sorry... unless you want a surly CX fork I don't have any extras to send at the moment!

[WickedWheels]

PM Sent

[Peter P.]

I wasn't sure which side of the argument to take in this post until I visited another web site where a poster showed photos of a new bike he bought on closeout. This new Lynskey R330 went out the door with a FULL STACK of stem spacers, both above and below the steerer, at least 40mm worth.

Then it hit me; that makes sense. You can't very well PRE-CUT the steerer prior to a fitting, and the safest way to treat a customer, fitting wise, is to send them out the door after the first fitting with a full stack of spacers and tell them to come back some time to trim the steerer, or discuss cutting the steerer DURING the fit.

Part of the problem lies in you handed them a bike to assemble and they ASSUMED the replacement fork should be cut to the same length with the stem configured the same way, and apparently were listening to Charlie Brown's principal when you told them about your stem desires.

Of course, the shop employee who merely flipped the stem when you didn't like the looks of it isn't a brain surgeon either. Flipping the stem can change the fit considerably and the entire point was, it's not how you asked the fork to be set up when you brought the parts in.

Your only recourse is to convince the shop to replace the fork or take your business elsewhere, and buy another fork on eBay. Good luck.

P.S. While some people poo-poo the "bars hiding the stem" method of fit, it works for some and not for others. It is a STARTING POINT and not necessarily completely wrong or right.

[Smiley]

3cb, I would never cut the fork before a fit and if I did I always cut to the maximum spacer count which would have been 4.5 cm to leave 5 mm above the stem, you can always cut again after the dial in period. And on the axel line of sight, its a CROCK and not how I do a fitting or for that matter something that is taught. You are owed a big IOU.

[Ahneida Ride]

If you told em fitting .... they owe you a new fork.

Ya don't cut forks before fitting.

[c-record]

They should not have assumed where to cut the steerer with with someone else's fork. You can cut again but you can't put it back. I agree with leaving 4cm and adjusting, even riding for a while then deciding where to have it cut. Put a small spacer above the stem; move up, down, flip over etc. till YOU know. The assumed and we all know what happens then. A shop that knows fit would have asked and verified or just gone with 4 cm.

[oldguy00]

http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=92859&page=DIMENSION%20THREADLESS%20STEERER%20TUBE%20EXT ENDER

Not the ideal, but maybe better than buying a new fork...

[Ken Robb]

I think it is the responsibility of a tech/fitter to ask enough questions to be sure he knows what the customer wants.

Most of you know I like my bars and saddle about the same height. I would recommend a new bike commuter try bars about this high too because I think it makes it easier to look farther up the road to see pot holes, debris and traffic.

[rugbysecondrow]

The bike shop should ask. Frankly, they should be used to dealing with people who are ignorant to these things, so walking them through this process should be a given. I might be an honest mistake, but a mistake none the less.

[kestrel]

I've bought several bikes from a shop here in NC. All of them have been build with all the spacers on the fork, full stack height. I've been a customer for years, the owner, and all employees know me on sight. They work on all my bikes and could easily have cut it according to any of my other bikes. The point is, they don't, ever, until I've seen it built and give them instructions as to height. They don't do it just for me, they do it for all customers.

Every bike is different and gets different use, hence, wait for the owner to detail the specs on ride setup. You can always cut one shorter, but you can't cut them longer.

Shops owes you a replacement fork.

[Pete Serotta]

- What was shops idea of a fit and yours....ie what did the fit cost (sounds like not a full fit was priced) and .....

what was it to entail. Viewing hub thru handlebars is very old school and has little to do with "true" fit which entails flexibity and body dimensions, as well as purpose of bike and "likes" of rider.

This is a commuter bike and thus will have different requirements than a race bike. ie seat and bars about same height vs a race bike position.

Did shop know why you wanted the fork replaced. Keep in mind that the Top tube and the seat tube lengths were locked in. Additionally the head tube length was pretty well "fixed" except for the spacers. What one person says for a Max Stack height is not necessarily the mft or the shops view. As to the "looks" of the up stem vs flat - the "up" might be required to fit you for other items are fixed in length. Also aluminum steerer and 40mm is higher than some would say to go with aluminum,

Lots of unknowns here and better communications by all could have resulted in a few more options - but the stem might still have been required to be slanting up.

It is a half hour and 8 mile commute so a fit can mean many things :confused:


I do not have the answer and vast majority of opinions here are just that opinions for there is not enough fact to have a recommendation,

As to who owes whom a fork..... :confused:


Just my 2 cents......

[gemship]

- What was shops idea of a fit and yours....ie what did the fit cost (sounds like not a full fit was priced) and .....

what was it to entail. Viewing hub thru handlebars is very old school and has little to do with "true" fit which entails flexibity and body dimensions, as well as purpose of bike and "likes" of rider.

This is a commuter bike and thus will have different requirements than a race bike. ie seat and bars about same height vs a race bike position.

Did shop know why you wanted the fork replaced. Keep in mind that the Top tube and the seat tube lengths were locked in. Additionally the head tube length was pretty well "fixed" except for the spacers. What one person says for a Max Stack height is not necessarily the mft or the shops view. As to the "looks" of the up stem vs flat - the "up" might be required to fit you for other items are fixed in length. Also aluminum steerer and 40mm is higher than some would say to go with aluminum,

Lots of unknowns here and better communications by all could have resulted in a few more options - but the stem might still have been required to be slanting up.

It is a half hour and 8 mile commute so a fit can mean many things :confused:


I do not have the answer and vast majority of opinions here are just that opinions for there is not enough fact to have a recommendation,

As to who owes whom a fork..... :confused:


Just my 2 cents......



good point on the mfg's recommended stack height. yeah you may get away with 40mm but the 25mm may be what the mfg recommends. The have a recommendation for safety reasons. If it's any consolation I would try to find the mfg's info in regards to that. If your mechanic is right and said that it was cut at the max allowable height then you may feel better about it. Not much you can do with it now except enjoy it and try not to get to sore about it. I suppose you could take a loss and sell it and spend more on a new one and start the whole process over. I probably would just live with it and a lesson learned.

[Tobias]

One day I'd like to understand why the length of the steerer is limited in what seems like an arbitrary number, or arbitrary manner. If there is technical reasoning on how these numbers come about, I haven't seen it yet.

Please don’t confuse that there are indeed limitations which I know well with my interest on “HOW” these limitations came about or how they are applied.

[Avispa]

+1 to what JeffS said....

For the fitting, their criteria for the stem placement was that the handlebar line-of-sight should align with the front hub when I look down (hands on hoods).

I don't know who suggested this, you or the shop... But today's components have changed that "formula" to the point it's obsolete!

IF the bike shop cut the fork without waiting for you, I agree, they owe you a fork!

..A..

[djg]

Well, it all sounds a bit odd, and plainly there was a failure to communicate, and you're bummed, but I'm not sure what you should expect exactly -- or even what you should want. BTW, forget about viewing the hub "through" the handlebars -- it's an old quick-and-dirty ballpark system that can be mucked up pretty seriously by how you are sitting on the bike and holding your torso, arms, and head, and it can be wrong anyway.

Some of this seems to hinge on the nature of the communication -- just what was said and arranged and with whom. Some of it hangs on the nature of the "fitting" that you'd scheduled. If you had scheduled a paid fit session to help you find your ideal position (or a starting point) and bike setup -- hundred bucks or so, sometimes more, and had left the bike to be set up for that fitting, then it makes no sense that they'd cut the steerer tube in advance -- heck, they might end up recommending a different stem, which might mean different spacers to get the same stack height. And they might want to send you off for a few days or a week to try a given setup before making a call.

OTOH, if I bring a frame and fork to our shop sponsor and ask them to install the headset, because I don't have a headset press, and give them a stem, 2 cm of spacers, and tell them I want 2 cm of spacers -- well, I'd be annoyed if I returned to find an uncut steerer tube with 5 cm of spacers below the stem and 2 more on top.

The owner sensibly wants you to ride your bike a bit and report back. Maybe the steerer tube is shorter than it needs to be; maybe it's longer than it needs to be; and maybe it's just right. You've let them know that you're not happy with the thing, but maybe it'll all be fine in the end -- or not. Right now, we don't know if you have a bike setup that's great for you, but doesn't look like you expected, a bike setup that's great and looks just fine after a week or so of getting used to it, something entirely dysfunctional, or whatever.

There's been a snafu. Maybe it's partly their fault. Maybe it's all their fault. I'd figure out the nature of the problem before asking for any particular solution.

[acckids]

Everytime my bike shop screws up it is my fault. It must be written in shop employee handbook.

I now write everything down on paper and have the employee initial it. What I tell the employee doesn't get relayed to another employee. My shop owner talks to so many people his brain is fried.

You can buy the below Satellite Plus fork for $50 on "make a deal." Split the difference with the bike shop or ask for free correction. The 50 rake would work well on your Soma. The Soma is made for an axle to crown height of 372. The Bontrager has an axle to crown height of 384 which effectively slackens your headtube angle 1.2 degrees and makes your steering a little slower. The 50 rake should make it steer the way Soma intended it to steer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CARBON-FIBER-ROAD-BIKE-FORK-700C-50-RAKE-1-1-8-NEW-09_W0QQitemZ350214039748QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling _Parts_Accessories?hash=item518a6228c4

[pjmsj21]

If you told em fitting .... they owe you a new fork.

Ya don't cut forks before fitting.


I would go even further and say you dont cut forks until after a fitting AND after riding it for a while in the real world to see if the fitting works.

[3cb]

Thanks acckids. Great suggestion.

I really thought I was clear when I asked for the bike fit. It was my suggestion. I told them I wanted it because the fork needed to be cut. I also told them that I would likely need to buy spacers and possibly a stem if none of mine would fit. As it was I thought I was coming across as pedantic and uptight. My guess is that there was miscommunication between the mechanic and the shop owner. Could I have been unclear--I guess. But as I said, I tried to tell them everything, to the point of coming across as uptight or NY neurotic. It's a frustrating clash--between the cool matter-of-factness of bike mechanics and the obsessiveness of roadies and their incremental upgrades.

To Serotta Pete's questions: I had asked for the fitting. The shop offers a range of fittings, from a $35 basic fit to a $150 TT fitting that takes into account aero riding positions. The deal was that they would do my fitting based on my needs and requests and determine the price when we were done. In the end I was charged the basic $35. I does not bother me that the handlebar/hub rule of thumb is not reliable. I was not expecting a "fits like a glove" fitting. All I wanted was the ability to get the fork fitted properly. That was the main reason I brought the bike in (they also installed new cables, tape and cross levers). I was pretty shocked and upset when I saw the fork already cut down.

I want to clarify/admit/share what is really bothering me. It is not so much that the shop messed up my fork. Mistakes happen and in general I am pretty good at putting things into a neutral or positive perspective. As a married father I expect things to go differently than planned. [Man plans and G-d laughs]. Even when I go out of my way to prevent mishaps, I am still more amazed when things succeed (like showing up on time as a family) and expect varying margins of error in most everything. What is difficult for me is when--outside of my family--I go to lengths to prevent a mishap and that very mishap occurs. I am refering to human error and not randomness. My wife and I both work full-time. We have 3 different people taking care of our kids/home at different times of the day. Mistakes happen all the time. That's life. But if I go out of my way to prevent a specific error and my efforts are ignored, avoided or forgotten, then I get upset. The whole reason I asked for the fitting was so that they would not mess up the fork. So it doesn't bother me that the fitting technique may be questionable. But I was plenty peeved over that fork.

Posting to this forum was for sure the best way to deal with this problem. The advice, support and opposing perspectives is great. A generous forumite even offered me an unused fork from his bin that might just fit the bill. Someone well connected with the NJ shops has offered to help mediate--another generous offer, but I think I need to handle this directly. When I came to the shop, my intention was to begin a longer term LBS relationship. How this plays out will determine if that still makes sense.

[sspielman]

I think they owe you a whole new bike.....and gas money for your extra trips....

[TAW]

At the shop I work at, you have SO MANY people come in without a clue what they're talking about or wanting, or what they think they want. Sometimes it's hard to sort out the person who really knows from the person who thinks they know. Sometimes bike shop employees treat everyone like an idiot because there are quite a few people who come in with just enough information to be dangerous.

Without seeing or hearing the whole thing, however, if you asked for no rise, and there was a doubt in the mind of the mechanic, he should have called you to confirm what he was going to do before he just cut the fork and did what he thought was right. Either he got wrong information, or he just did what he thought. If it is the case that he just ignored your request, then indeed the shop owes you a fork.

[c-record]

3cb,

By the sounds of it I'm guessing that you are the kind of customer a shop would want to have happy, now and as a future customer-meaning reasonable and a guy who is excited about bikes. This may play into the shops decision of how to handle the situation. If it's a one-shot transaction, they may not care as much but if they are looking at building relationships with good customers for future business their actions should reflect that (any good business should care). Maybe imply/present that, though I'm sure they've at least considered it to some degree.

[derosa_guy]

Back in my bike shop days, I used to ALWAYS cut the fork to the max allowable height. If you leave it uncut, you end-up spending 20 minutes trying to explain to a customer why they can't have 80mm of spacers under their stem.

[rugbysecondrow]

Back in my bike shop days, I used to ALWAYS cut the fork to the max allowable height. If you leave it uncut, you end-up spending 20 minutes trying to explain to a customer why they can't have 80mm of spacers under their stem.


Dumb question, if there is a max allowable height, why is the product sent to the consumer/shop with height/length above that? If 40MM is the max, why is there 80MM of tube? I understand why there would be a Max height, but I would think the manufacturer should create the product in a way that is useful from the get go rather than having to have it cut.

Like I said, just a dumb question.

[TAW]

Well, the fork could be used on a variety of sizes, so while there may be quite a bit of steerer tube exposed on a 54 cm frame, it would be quite a bit less on a 58, for example.

[rugbysecondrow]

Well, the fork could be used on a variety of sizes, so while there may be quite a bit of steerer tube exposed on a 54 cm frame, it would be quite a bit less on a 58, for example.


Duh, I knew it was a dumb question. Too many other thoughts dancing around today.

Cheers

[stormyClouds]

Hard to discern who was wrong and who was right (two sides to every story, etc), but it seems to me that it would be more beneficial/constructive to work on a solution.
If it were my bike, I would start out using the stem with rise, then use that as motivation to work on my flexibility and strength.
Set a goal of getting to a point where you could move to a flat stem in x months, and maybe a negative rise in x+y months.
Everyone's aesthetic eye is different, but if I bought a bike with too short a headtube (the actual problem here, imo), I would prefer a stem with rise to a giant stack of spacers and a flat stem. Especially on a commuter.

[3cb]

The problem is that flipping the stem won't necessarily fix the problem. I bought the bike used, put on a longer stem and used +/ive rise to compensate for the shortness of the original fork. The purpose of the new fork was to correct the sizing. When the new fork was cut to match the old one, it was effectively cut arbitrarily. Maybe it can be corrected by playing around with stems lengths and rises, but that defeats my main reason for buying a new fork.

Hopefully the owner and I can make nice and begin a good relationship. If not, I have received lots of advice, sources for niexpensive replacement forks and outright offers from forumites. It's good to have options.

I thing putting things is writing--a simple list--is a good idea. That way I can be explicit about the obvious without becoming pedantic or obnoxious.

[Lifelover]

Dumb question, if there is a max allowable height, why is the product sent to the consumer/shop with height/length above that? If 40MM is the max, why is there 80MM of tube? I understand why there would be a Max height, but I would think the manufacturer should create the product in a way that is useful from the get go rather than having to have it cut.

Like I said, just a dumb question.


The max height is "above" the head tube. Head tube lengths vary greatly

[jpw]

It's a miscommunication. Happens all the time, unless the instructions are explicitly stated in writing. I think you'll just have to put it down to experience. Anyway, if the thing fits fine then what's the problem? OK you had a preconceived aesthetic preference, but it might grow on you in time. Just get out there and ride off your frustration - more important things to get irritated about than a minor stem issue. :beer:

[gemship]

Back in my bike shop days, I used to ALWAYS cut the fork to the max allowable height. If you leave it uncut, you end-up spending 20 minutes trying to explain to a customer why they can't have 80mm of spacers under their stem.


I think realistically that's the way to go for a majority of us. Unless your a seasoned pro racer who rides everyday or really hate looking at spacers this makes sense. As your body and riding develop you can play around with the stem height and spacers. I know they look sort of ugly, unrefined but speaking for myself that pro funda fork on my Cervelo cost a lot and I'm not a contortionist by any means nor a pro, I just ride a wicked light bike.

[rugbysecondrow]

The max height is "above" the head tube. Head tube lengths vary greatly


I get that. Just had a brain fart when I asked the question.

[jsfoster]

While it may be hard to discern who is 'right' inthis case based on the information, i have had problems with shops and forks. One time i bought a Beautiful 'Bird', light blue english bike, from a store in NYC which will remain unnamed. I bought the bike, and was waiting at the register to take the frame after i had paid for it. The mechanic brought it out with the fork and head set installed! Appallingly bad. there was never a word about headset or installation. They had just ruined the bike for me as I could not install the Campy Record which was a taller set. Another time a mechanic cut the fork before the King head set had arrived to install. too short. my bike. useless. It seems to be a compulsion to cut forks. it is hard to be too careful.
jf

[Ken Robb]

Let's all remember that as I read it the OP only bought the new fork to get higher bars without an upswept stem. When the shop cut his new fork to a length similar to his old fork he was back where he started and out the price of the new fork and labor.

[3cb]

Yes that's exactly the problem. The old fork did not fit and now the new fork does not fit--no matter which way I flip the stem.

[gemship]

Yes that's exactly the problem. The old fork did not fit and now the new fork does not fit--no matter which way I flip the stem.


Well you need to talk to the shop, I believe based on you post that you were clear on what you wanted and they misunderstood you. You just need to go about it with no disrespect and whatever happens of it(hopefully they'll replace it for you free of charge) at least you'll feel better about it.

Since I don't know you very well I wasn't sure how confrontational you wanted to be but as this thread has been kicking around a bit I now feel that you need to confront this as they do share the fault and perhaps more so since they ought know better to check twice cut once. Good luck and let us know how it works out but whatever happens don't stop riding your bike.

[93legendti]

I bought a used commuter bike (Soma Smoothie ES) and I picked up a few goodies over the past months. I brought the bike in for a fitting and to install some parts, primarily a new fork (non-branded Bontrager Satellite Plus from ebay). I was very clear when I brought the bike in that I did not want a rising stem--the original set-up had the stem rising because the original fork was cut too low. I also brought in a second stem in case the first one was too long.

When I arrived this evening for the fitting, the fork had already been cut and installed, based on the spacers that were already on the bike. And the stem was rising! They measured me and dialed me in. For the fitting, their criteria for the stem placement was that the handlebar line-of-sight should align with the front hub when I look down (hands on hoods). When set up, I could still see the QR cam & nut, above the handlebar, so it was not an exact fit but there was nothing left to adjust.

When I told him that I did not like the looks of the rising stem, he flipped it. Now I could see even more of the hub above the handlebars.

The owner measured the stack height (25mm) and then told me that was pretty much the maximum that could be used. This fork has an aluminum steerer tube. A quick internet search suggests that up to 40mm should be no problem.

The owner ended the session by telling me to go ride and then provide feedback. He will tweak things based on my input. On this point he was very nice.

The thing is that I am not yet much of a rider so I would probably not know the difference between a passable vs a really well dialed in bike. And this bike is used for a relatively short commute (8.5 miles/30 minutes, each way) to and from work. But a big reason why I paid for a fitting was to make sure the fork was cut to the proper length.

I am not sure how to handle this.
Would this fork work?

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=67877

[3cb]

Thanks, but the crown-axle height & rake result in too large of a trail.

[Pete Serotta]

To Serotta Pete's questions: I had asked for the fitting. The shop offers a range of fittings, from a $35 basic fit to a $150 TT fitting that takes into account aero riding positions. The deal was that they would do my fitting based on my needs and requests and determine the price when we were done. In the end I was charged the basic $35. I does not bother me that the handlebar/hub rule of thumb is not reliable. I was not expecting a "fits like a glove" fitting. All I wanted was the ability to get the fork fitted properly. That was the main reason I brought the bike in (they also installed new cables, tape and cross levers). I was pretty shocked and upset when I saw the fork already cut down.

.

Yep, in the fitting process where you communicated what you wanted done with the fork and your fit, something was lost by the time it got to the work area. Easiest thing for shop is to get you another workable fork, in fact they might have one in back, See where max is on that fork and your frame - they can then tell if fork will work for the position you want. A steel fork (steerer) can usually go some what higher but looks wise, try to picture what the look will be.