Best Bicycle Tool Ever!

[mtnbke]

Okay, we've all have individual bicycle tools that we prefer over something else, but how many tools are out there that are just so heads and shoulders above everything else out there that its just plain tomfoolery to use an alternative?

I wanted to start this discussion to see if anyone has discovered anything that I should know about because I stumbled onto a new bicycle tool that makes the old tool seem like a rock and a stick.

I'll wait to see what everyone else posts before revealing the secret mystery tool, though I wouldn't be surprised if a couple other people didn't consider it the most amazin' tool ever as well...

[TBDSeattle]

Ok, I'll bite, I want to know about your new tool.

I don't know if I have a "favorite tool" but I will share a trick I learned today half way through the 4 hours of riding in the pouring rain here in Seattle.

I noticed that my friend had a funny pink color on the ends of his brake cables. His rain bike is equipped with Ultegra and has the regular dual pivot brake calipers. It looked to me like he had dipped the end of his brake cable in wax. I asked what it was and he said that he paints the ends of his brake cables with fingernail polish. He says it keeps the ends from fraying and that if you want to adjust the length of housing or re-string the bike you can pull the cable through the housing. He liked it better than the ferrules that I usually use because:

a) It doesn't fall off and result in frayed brake cables
b) You can pull it back through housing easily
c) You can feed it through housing after you pull it out

It seemed like a simple trick, but I liked it.

Oh, and my favorite tool is likely the rosewood handled park tool chain break that was offered about 10 years ago. It is machined so much better than most chain breaks that it is always a pleasure to use. It is a common tool, I know, but I love any tool that works just right.

Best- TBDSeattle

[mtnbke]

Nope...I'm not sharing my "greatest tool ever" just yet, but I'm sure someone else will have it as their fav tomorrow anyway...

My best trick, was after spending hours trying to get a Shimano Octalink BB out of an Italian steel frame, I finally asked someone and they mentioned putting the BB tool in a vise and then using the bike frame as the "tool".

As the Park Tool BBB-2 blue book says "component manufacturers sometimes limit what tool companies can do for tool design. For example, if a component part was poorly thought out and service only considered after the design was completed, a 'correct' fitting tool may not be possible."

By holding the bike frame and using it as a lever and using gravity to hold the BB tool splines against the BB I was able to get the BB loose in seconds. That never would have occurred to me to try in a million years, and I'm no dummy, well at least I thought not...

The other thing I learned later is that folks struggling with BB tools that 'loosely' fit at best, is that they buy a big thick long machine screw, some washers, and two bolts and compress the BB tool onto the BB. That pretty much eliminates the nightmare slip that is endemic to BB tools. Its amazing how quickly you can tear up a $50-100 bottom bracket when the tool keeps slipping. Steel and soft aluminum do NOT play nice.

[R2D2]

The old VAR tire tool (tire jack). Mines is 25+ years old and still going strong and can help with troublesome tires.

[peanutgallery]

The official Shimano cable cutters. Bought a pair in the early to mid 1990's for over $50 (gasp) at the time. Only thing I've ever used that could cut SIS housing and other stuff around the house.

[rickbb]

My set of Pedro's hexes, with one end rounded, has completely changed how this mechanical hacker (me) has worked with his bikes. They fit, have a nice heft and are durable. No more stripped crank set bolts!

[William]

The Park Tool TP#2 Toilet Paper Holder brings the action of the open road or trail home for those moments of silent introspection... The TP#2 is 100% Park Tool Linear Butted Cro-Moly with a mirrored chrome finish. A Ball bearing headset allows 360¡ roll rotation. The fork is without retention tabs and comes with a competition quick release front skewer for fast roll changes.

:D


William

[jvp]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/jvpro/DSCF2679.jpg

[Ti Designs]

The Park Tool TP#2 Toilet Paper Holder brings the action of the open road or trail home for those moments of silent introspection... The TP#2 is 100% Park Tool Linear Butted Cro-Moly with a mirrored chrome finish. A Ball bearing headset allows 360¡ roll rotation. The fork is without retention tabs and comes with a competition quick release front skewer for fast roll changes.


I would agree with William, as this is a tool that stands out from the rest (and from the wall). I might also add that no job is done until the paperwork is filled out... But there's a problem with the TP#2, the bearing quality of the headset sucks. Now I know that the headset bearings don't make you go any faster, but in those cases where someone puts the TP in the wrong way I can feel the poor adjustment of the bearings as I flip it around. The TP#2 with a Chris King headset upgrade is what no good mechanic should be without.

[rugbysecondrow]

of course....

[Johnnyg]

Campy cork screw used on Reds.

[pbjbike]

http://www.zinncycles.com/tools.php

[salem]

Craftsman 15" adjustable wrench, two of them. Maybe not the most commonly used tool, but does a great job when nothing else will do. I originally bought my first for the top nut of 1 1/8" threaded headsets (where it doesn't slip like many stamped wrenches on the market), but it has turned into one of the best leverage/straightening tools, saving the mangle derailleur hangers (the dropouts were actually pulled open) on two titanium frames (one I receive free because a bike shop thought it was a total loss). So, I' guess they've paid for themselves at lease 10 fold.

[ibis]

Ok, I'll bite, I want to know about your new tool.

I don't know if I have a "favorite tool" but I will share a trick I learned today half way through the 4 hours of riding in the pouring rain here in Seattle.

I noticed that my friend had a funny pink color on the ends of his brake cables. His rain bike is equipped with Ultegra and has the regular dual pivot brake calipers. It looked to me like he had dipped the end of his brake cable in wax. I asked what it was and he said that he paints the ends of his brake cables with fingernail polish. He says it keeps the ends from fraying and that if you want to adjust the length of housing or re-string the bike you can pull the cable through the housing. He liked it better than the ferrules that I usually use because:

a) It doesn't fall off and result in frayed brake cables
b) You can pull it back through housing easily
c) You can feed it through housing after you pull it out

It seemed like a simple trick, but I liked it.

Oh, and my favorite tool is likely the rosewood handled park tool chain break that was offered about 10 years ago. It is machined so much better than most chain breaks that it is always a pleasure to use. It is a common tool, I know, but I love any tool that works just right.

Best- TBDSeattle

LOL. I just solder my cable ends. Same idea, but without the pink. Haha!

[I Want Sachs?]

Here are my favorites.

http://www.topeak.com/products/Tools/Hexus16blackW_O_Bag

Nothing amazing on it, but has everything that I need on the road, and it is there when I need it because it fits in seat bag with a spare tube and a minipump.

http://www.topeak.com/products/Mini-Pumps/MicroRocketAL

[rdparadise]

Guys:

On a more serious note, I recently purchased one of these babies.

I had purchased a pair of Hutchinson tires and they were so damn tight that I had to take the wheels to the bike shop to have them mounted. I am man enough to say that over my 15+ years of cycling, I had never run into a pair of virgin tires that I couldn't mount.

These Hutchinson's were so tight, after a few pinch flats, I more or less resorted to the bike shop route. When I got there, the mechanic and I used the Cool Stop and two pairs of strong hands to get these puppies mounted.

Based on the wonderful job this tool did, I told him to order me one and I've used it a few times since. I don't typically need it for tires once their mounted but that first time, before they're stretched out some, this thing comes in really handy.

I believe I paid $15 for it and haven't regretted the purchase.

Bob

[SuzyQ]

not sure of 'Ever' but the OP wins for today.

[Dekonick]

Bets tool EVER:

Google.com

[uno-speedo]

I've just spent the last hour getting mad at my new tires. Ok I'm weak.

I've ordered this Var tire lever:

http://randonneurextra.blogspot.com/2009_02_01_archive.html

[Louis]

My contribution:

The 4" long piece of coat hanger wire bent into the shape of a C which I use to de-tension the section of chain which I am either breaking or joining.

Cost me nothing to make, 20 seconds to construct, and works like a champ.

[Ray]

I've just spent the last hour getting mad at my new tires. Ok I'm weak.

I've ordered this Var tire lever:

http://randonneurextra.blogspot.com/2009_02_01_archive.html
I've used and broken a few of those. Go for the one Bob included a picture of a few posts up from yours. Does the same thing as the VAR, but its about 1000 times stronger. You won't break it and it won't bend in useless ways when you're trying to leverage a really tough tire.

-Ray

[Ti Designs]

I've used and broken a few of those. Go for the one Bob included a picture of a few posts up from yours. Does the same thing as the VAR, but its about 1000 times stronger. You won't break it and it won't bend in useless ways when you're trying to leverage a really tough tire.

OK, I have a question for y'all. I got a flat a few weeks ago when it was below 20F, and I noticed that my tire levers were still way too flexy. My Clif Bar on the other hand was rock hard and probably the better tool for taking the tire off the rim at the time. So, if they taste about the same, why can't they make Clip Bars that stay soft or tire levers that are hard?

Oh yeh, the best bike tool ever is the Sawzall.

[Ray]

OK, I have a question for y'all. I got a flat a few weeks ago when it was below 20F, and I noticed that my tire levers were still way too flexy. My Clif Bar on the other hand was rock hard and probably the better tool for taking the tire off the rim at the time. So, if they taste about the same, why can't they make Clip Bars that stay soft or tire levers that are hard?

Oh yeh, the best bike tool ever is the Sawzall.
You can get steel tire levers. I don't recommend steel Clif Bars - alu is softer. Just personal preference I guess. :cool:

-Ray

[Vancouverdave]

A variation on a classic that is ridiculously better than it's inspiration--the Efficient Velo Tools axle vise. Heavy machined and laser-etched steel, jaws close so they neither harm threads nor allow a wheel to "walk" out of them.
Comparing a Campagnolo axle vise to this gem is like comparing a cigar box strung with rubber bands to a Dupont D50 guitar.

[CaptStash]

OK, I just set this up and it is the bees knees. A quarter inch drive breaker bar and a set of metric hex sockets. Wicked fast for putting abike together. Beats the heck out of any other iteration of hex keys I have tried. Under $30 from Sears.

CaptStash....

[xjoex]

I found this little thumb drive adapter a huge help when centering disc brakes:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Jz4f840sc_c/STMkBBSt9sI/AAAAAAAABVs/f06tTV2D6VI/s400/100_2871.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Jz4f840sc_c/STMkCMddUvI/AAAAAAAABV8/Er0O999IsrU/s400/100_2879.JPG

And I am a big fan of using a ratchet with allen sockets while working on the bike:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Jz4f840sc_c/SGzLb5tivBI/AAAAAAAAAus/JeeN4d2wtTc/s400/100_1985.jpg

Last but not least, a really good set of T handle allens is great, I got a set of bondhus ones that are solid as a rock:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Jz4f840sc_c/RhReBr4gytI/AAAAAAAAALg/M_f-IUWHfHg/s320/IMGP2119.JPG

-Joe

[Vancouverdave]

I can go along with both the VAR and Kool Stop tire tools. Also, what chain tools do all of you like? I don't have enough good stuff to say about Shimano's chain tools--even use 'em on Campy 10 chains, and they're indestructible.

[mtnbke]

http://www.zinncycles.com/tools.php

Well someone is more savvy than me. I hadn't heard of the Zinn tool, not even when I was talking to Leonard when I was getting a Phil Wood BB installed on my touring bike to mount my new Zinn 205mm triple touring crank. I wasn't looking very hard, but its not like Zinn had a pile of 'em in the shop.

After buying the Pedros/Zinn vise whip it has to be the best bicycle tool ever, compared to the alternative tools.

I several bikes with Phil Wood freewheel hubs, and a tandem that takes a 140mm hub for which I have a cassette and a freewheel wheel for it. You don't have to talk to very many professional bike wrenches to find one that has thrown his back out trying to get a stubborn freewheel off (especially a freewheel from a tandem). A chain whip has to be the worst thought out tool ever. They always seem to slip busting up your knuckles, you can really hurt your back when they do slip.

My Pedros/Zinn vise whip is my all time favorite bike tool (for now). I love using it...

Worst place to buy it though is REI. I can't believe I dropped $70 for a tool that sells for forty something elsewhere. :crap:

[Charles M]

http://www.fallingpixel.com/products/6592/mains/hand01.jpg

[mtnbke]

Me second favorite bike tool? My Precision Instruments 0-600 in/lbs torque wrench.

Precision Instruments actually invented the torque wrench back in the day, and they never sold out to anyone they are still an independent concern, which in the tool business is saying something. They have always made Snap On torque wrenches until Snap On bought out another torque wrench company (CDI), but then came back to Precision Instruments within a couple of years anyway and started having them make their torque wrenches again.

Almost any other torque wrench design gives you a reading relative to where you grip the tool on the handle. If you reposition your grip it completely throws off the reading on the torque wrench. This is true for any beam type, any Craftsman wrenches, pretty much any beam or click style torque wrench.

The Precision Instruments dial type torsion bar torque wrench is completely unaffected by where you grip it. You could even slip an extension over the handle if you dared to mess up this beautiful tool for Bottom Brackets that require 450 in/lbs or more...

Its accurate to 2% over its entire range from 20% of its capacity to full capacity.

A "click style" torque wrench is not accurate over the entire range, absolutely essentially must be returned to zero after every single use or it will completely go out of calibration, and is only accurate (say for a Park one) to between 5-10% depending on where in the range you check. Anyone who has ever sent a Park torque wrench in for calibration wants to pull their hair out when they get the certification back in terms of the tool's accuracy.

I love this thing.

If I had to have a non-dial type, I'd still go Precision Instruments and get the split beam. You can drop it and it doesn't go out of calibration. However, only accurate to 4%, half the accuracy of the dial type. However, dropping it doesn't cost you a $50 recalibration/recertification.

For those that want to pick up a Precision Instruments dial type on the cheap you can always look on eBay for any Snap On dial type torque wrench called a Torqometer, those are just a Precision Instruments dial type branded Snap On, and have been since the forties. The Snap On split beam is a Precision Instruments as well.

They really do make the best torque wrenches on the planet.

[Louis]

I guess one benefit of not messing with CF seatposts or bars is that I manage to live without torque wrenches. I've thought getting one for quite a while but always managed to talk myself out of it. I'm about to use my first fork with a CF steerer, so that may all change soon.

[pitcrew]

My Phil Wood spoke machine is my favorite......

[soulspinner]

Ti designs is right again. Sawzall destroyed my overbuilt 40 year old kitchen I could not destroy any other way. It made room for new everything, with flimsy cabinet drawers, a countertop less than half the weight of the old one, and a new refrigerator that went inop along with the insinkerator that lasted one day...progress but I digress. :crap:

[pdali]

I ride in New York City a lot. The island of Manflattan. In a town where blowouts are just a part of life the tool I never leave home without is a brand new indestructable and impossible to separate one dollar bill. It is a perfect patch to sidewall tears and keeps your tube in the tire mile after mile.

[mtnbke]

My Phil Wood spoke machine is my favorite......

You have a Phil Wood spoke roller? You've got to be a shop, those cost a couple of grand don't they?

In my book the standard for a good shop is one that has the Phil Wood spoke roller, and a sizing cycle.

You really know you've found a great shop when they don't sell bikes 'off the floor', when 90% of what they do sell is custom geometry "to order" bikes, when they have that Phil Wood spoke roller, a Serotta sizing cycle, and Hozan precision dial type spoke tensiometers.

We're lucky enough to have just such a shop in our neck of the woods here in Colorado. Vecchio's.

If you don't have a decent shop send your bikes to 'em FedEx Ground. They are that good.

[ckamp]

Crank Bros Multi-17
Pedros Trixie

[MarcusPless]

For the fixed gear crowd I like the Rotafix (http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm) method for loosening cogs. It's really handy for cogs that have been tightened to the extreme by riding up hills where fixed gear bikes probably don't belong.

--Marcus

[ckamp]

Thanks marcus, I used that method tonight and it worked out great!

[Louis]

For the fixed gear crowd I like the Rotafix (http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm) method for loosening cogs. It's really handy for cogs that have been tightened to the extreme by riding up hills where fixed gear bikes probably don't belong.

If you want to protect the paint on the BB shell you may want to first wrap it with a few rags before dropping the chain. Othewise, the force of the chain on the shell may chip it.