advice for cable routing on bullhorns

[keithreynolds]

I built up a commuter for a friend who wanted some bullhorns. Said bike also has a rear derailer. I put a bar-end shifter in the end and attached drop bar brakes on the bars with the cable routing back under the bar tape. So the cable routing is my biggest issue.

Rider loves the placement of the bar-end shifter with hand position so I would like to preserve that, so down-tube shifters are sort of out. I need cable routing of the brakes like a reverse lever (which *also* requires mounting in the bar end). How can I accomplish this?

My thoughts;
1. Cut up a pair of secondary bars and "weld" a sister tube to use BOTH bar-end shifter and reverse levers.
2. Convince rider that shifting with an old friction shifter will be "near enough" in the cockpit. Use reverse levers and add a friction shifter near the stem..

Attached is a mockup.
Thanks!

[v531xc]

Does this frame have downtube shifter braze ons or does it have barrel adjuster cable stops? If it has the braze on, an indexed dt shifter would do the trick and let you use inverse barend brake levers. I've used a barend shifter as a downtube shifter before and its worked fine with the use of a different (curved) index spacer. There's also the option of a clamp-on downtube shifter band.

But, as for the current set up, the only suggestion I have is to get rid of the STI levers and put on non-aero brake levers so that the cable pops out of the top of the hood and that way you don't have to go under the bar tape for routing.

[keithreynolds]

Does this frame have downtube shifter braze ons or does it have barrel adjuster cable stops?

It does have the stops for downtube shifters. Certainly an option, but the rider likes the shifters within hand's reach.

as for the current set up, the only suggestion I have is to get rid of the STI levers and put on non-aero brake levers

Ah, yes. I'm trying to avoid a free standing cable that exits the top of the brake and loops in the front.

Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming!

[v531xc]

how about a brake system like Sheldon had on this Peugeot:
http://sheldonbrown.org/px7.html

You could do this without BMX or interrupter levers. I've never done it, so I don't know how well it works, but if its good for Sheldon...

I also feel like another one of his bikes has this or a similar set up with the cable coming out from underneath. I can't find it, but I know there's a more detailed picture and explanation.

[McQueen]

There is such a simple solution to this...


Shift/brake lever mounts at bar end, cable runs through the bars..

Easy solution... now what did you say you were willing to spend?

[alimey]

I have a couple of bikes with bull bars which have sti levers mounted under the bar - as you show in the picture. I love the position - it's really strong & comfortable. I use the sti to brake & change gear. I have used flexible outer cable & just bent it back flat along the bar & used bar tape to tape over it - I don't have any problem shifting (I am assuming the sti you have mounted on there are working??) or braking. Different makes of cable outer vary in terms of flexibility - if I was doing it again, I might use Nokon to get an even smoother bend - but even with regular outer you can make the cable lie along the bars. The other thing I did was to put Fizik gel along the bars which smoothes out the small bump made by the cable. One of the bikes which has this is my Bike Friday (triple, Ultegra) - it really does shift & brake well. Never have to move my hands on the bars. Assuming the sti levers are working, you could dispense with the bar end shifter - I know you said the position was liked - but shifting & braking from the sti lever under the bar is probably even more comfortable.

[Ti Designs]

Keith,

I would run cyclocross add-on levers instead of the STI levers. As the cyclocross levers are designed to go somewhere in the brake line, you need only use the cable end as the stop - and it allows you to run the cable out either side and keep the bar end shifter.

[woolly]

Maybe use a Kelly Takeoff?

http://kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

[keithreynolds]

I'll update after the weekend with a new setup.

In the mean time here's something I found from the Agritubel's TT bikes. They did this for a technical TT course, for more control.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/time-trial-tech-from-the-streets-of-monaco/77769

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/time-trial-tech-from-the-streets-of-monaco/77770

[RFC]

Here are some examples for you to consider -- 1987 Fuji TT bike and Quintana Roo Santo, both with a similar setup. It can be done with a fairly sharp turn of the brake housing, which can cause some mushiness. Since adopting this setup, I have seen similar setups with cross levers at the ends of the bars and think that is a better way to go.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0020r.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0027r.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_2703a.jpg

[EddieBirdsell]

Two options that will work:

http://jtekengineering.com/AeroBrake.htm

http://jtekengineering.com/Jtek_Brake_Levers.htm

You could pony up for the right-hand AeroBrake and find a parts bin left-hand brake. Check with a shop that caters to the tri crowd. They've probably got boxes of scratched-up ones from crashes, and might have some not-so-scratched from carbon lever upgrades, etc.

There are other clamp-on bar-end shifters out there, probably cheaper.