Climbing wheels recommendation

[Dan Le foot]

Hi gang.
I’m sponsored by an organization that supports combat wounded veterans and 1st responders. (firemen. And police injured in line of duty) If you are one of these check them out. Called “Operation Rebound” http://www.challengedathletes.org/programs/operation_rebound.htm

Anyway, they have agreed to buy me a new set of climbing hoops. (I’m not a great climber but that is what I enjoy doing the most) I have had good luck with Easton in the past. But my latest set of EA 90 SLX have been awful. In 6 months and only 2000-3000 miles I have had to replace both front and rear bearing a broken spoke. The free hub developed a real bad lateral play in the 1st 1000 miles. Easton sent a shim to supposedly correct the problem. It worked for a few months but the problem is back even worst. We’re going to try replacing the freehub.
At just under 1400 grams, the EA90 are real nice climbing wheels when they are working. But I’m hesitant to buy another set as you can imagine.
I was considering the Ks SL but am hearing mixed reviews about the durability of the hubs.
I’m 180 pound old guy and ride a triple. My prosthetic leg is on the drive side so I’m not real hard on my wheels.
Any recommendations for a new set of climbing wheels?
I run DuraAce and would like to stay around $1000 or so.
Thanks
Dan

[RPS]

Any recommendations for a new set of climbing wheels?
I run DuraAce and would like to stay around $1000 or so.
Thanks
Dan
Dan, my only recommendation is not to worry about the weight of the wheels and buy what you like and think will hold up. You and your bike weigh over 200 pounds, so even if you added an extra pound (that’s 454 grams) to your bike it’s highly unlikely in my opinion that it will make so much of a difference that it will make you like climbing any less.

I also enjoy climbing more than any other part of cycling (although I don’t get to do it often enough), but if I had to worry about equipment reliability it would take the fun out of it for me. The advantage of weight is overstated by marketers anyway.

Good luck,
Rick

[Ray]

Hi gang.
I’m sponsored by an organization that supports combat wounded veterans and 1st responders. (firemen. And police injured in line of duty) If you are one of these check them out. Called “Operation Rebound” http://www.challengedathletes.org/programs/operation_rebound.htm

Anyway, they have agreed to buy me a new set of climbing hoops. (I’m not a great climber but that is what I enjoy doing the most) I have had good luck with Easton in the past. But my latest set of EA 90 SLX have been awful. In 6 months and only 2000-3000 miles I have had to replace both front and rear bearing a broken spoke. The free hub developed a real bad lateral play in the 1st 1000 miles. Easton sent a shim to supposedly correct the problem. It worked for a few months but the problem is back even worst. We’re going to try replacing the freehub.
At just under 1400 grams, the EA90 are real nice climbing wheels when they are working. But I’m hesitant to buy another set as you can imagine.
I was considering the Ks SL but am hearing mixed reviews about the durability of the hubs.
I’m 180 pound old guy and ride a triple. My prosthetic leg is on the drive side so I’m not real hard on my wheels.
Any recommendations for a new set of climbing wheels?
I run DuraAce and would like to stay around $1000 or so.
Thanks
Dan
In the $1000 neighborhood, the Shamals and Fulcrum racing zeros come to mind (essentially the same wheels), as do HED Ardennes. They're all in that 1400 gram neighborhood, the HEDs are slightly lighter than the others I think. I *KNOW* the Fulcrums are very strong wheels, I'm pretty sure the Shamals are also, given their common heritage, and I've heard nothing but good things about Ardennes. The first two are available in a tubeless configuration too.

-Ray

[rpm]

Hed Ardennes. Light and strong. Search the forum. People who have them, including me, love them.

[tv_vt]

I would also think about DT Mon Chasserals and the DuraAce 7850-sl wheels. Those, along with the Hed Ardennes and maybe K-SLs, a Bontrager set, and a set of handbuilts from Excelsports (which are pretty similar to DTs wheels) would be on my short list.

[TAW]

For the last year I have ridden the Bontrager xxx lite. I have the tubular version, but the clincher version is light, seems to hold up well and roll pretty well. You can find them on ebay fairly cheap.

[oldpotatoe]

Hi gang.
I’m sponsored by an organization that supports combat wounded veterans and 1st responders. (firemen. And police injured in line of duty) If you are one of these check them out. Called “Operation Rebound” http://www.challengedathletes.org/programs/operation_rebound.htm

Anyway, they have agreed to buy me a new set of climbing hoops. (I’m not a great climber but that is what I enjoy doing the most) I have had good luck with Easton in the past. But my latest set of EA 90 SLX have been awful. In 6 months and only 2000-3000 miles I have had to replace both front and rear bearing a broken spoke. The free hub developed a real bad lateral play in the 1st 1000 miles. Easton sent a shim to supposedly correct the problem. It worked for a few months but the problem is back even worst. We’re going to try replacing the freehub.
At just under 1400 grams, the EA90 are real nice climbing wheels when they are working. But I’m hesitant to buy another set as you can imagine.
I was considering the Ks SL but am hearing mixed reviews about the durability of the hubs.
I’m 180 pound old guy and ride a triple. My prosthetic leg is on the drive side so I’m not real hard on my wheels.
Any recommendations for a new set of climbing wheels?
I run DuraAce and would like to stay around $1000 or so.
Thanks
Dan

Find a good wheelbuilder and look at

DT 240 or Dura Ace/7900 hubset
Velocity Aerohead rims, offcenter drillng rear
Revolutions or Aerolights in the front-28h, laced 2 cross
Left side Revs, rear with right side 14/15, laced 3 cross

Brass nipps all around. The resulting wheelset will be around 1450 gram and cost about $800. With GREAT hubs(either), normal spokes and rims, nothing unique or propriatary. Be light, crisp, reliable.

[Tobias]

I’m 180 pound old guy and ride a triple. My prosthetic leg is on the drive side so I’m not real hard on my wheels.
Dan, I'm not sure why you think this. In fact, I could make a case for having a prosthetic leg making it harder on wheels.

I don't know what is "considered" climbing wheels other than they be light, round, spin circles, and able to take high torque. For me a set of DA hubs with Open Pro rims and 28/32 or 32/36 spokes built by a pro is a good combination. Cost would be lower than $1,000 so if someone else is paying you may want to go a little more upscale even if it doesn't accomplish much in function.

[pjmsj21]

You might want to contact Dave Thomas (http://speeddream.com/) and tell him what your needs are. My guess is that he will suggest a DT 240 hub, DT Swiss rim and some relatively light spokes built, 32 for each wheel. The build will likely come in around 1500 grams for the set but I doubt you will need to ever touch them. Plus they will come in at about $200 under your budget.

Pat Mc

[oldguy00]

If you can go tubular, Easton EC90 SLX's can be found for about 1K, and weigh around 1225 grams. Most people, including myself, have very good luck with them holding up, including the hubs and spokes. I think your experience with your EA90's was not typical.

[mgm777]

Dan - I too have been in the market for a similar wheelset. While I don't have any direct experience with this wheelset yet, I am probably going to purchase this set from Ligero Wheelworks - Model 1 – Aluminum Clincher (1395g) - $850.

A few folks on this forum have these wheels and have communicated very positive reviews to me. I have been looking for about a year now and am probably going to pull the trigger on these. Troy's hubs make sense to me.
My current Orion IIs have 13K miles on them and are ready to be retired to standby status.

I have no affiliation with Troy at Ligero Wheelworks other than I simply like his wheels and specifically his proprietary hub design.

My two cents....

[thegunner]

you should try for custom built, i think you could go 28/32 DT hubs and be sub 1500 grams but hold up to your weight...

[Ken Robb]

I'm concerned about lateral stiffness with any wheel. I HATE wobbles and shimmies. Since a climbing wheelset is probably going to become a descending wheelset I'm afraid of anything that doesn't have 32 spokes.

I had top-of-the-line Ksyriums a few years ago that didn't wobble but they weren't very light and they got shoved sideways a lot in the crosswinds you and I know so well at the beach.

[veloduffer]

Wheelset threads are interesting in that it seems that the factory-built wheels offer no comparative advantage that hand-built wheels other than "bling" factor? :confused:

In many cases, handbuilts are lighter and easier to repair, plus use parts (hubs, spokes) that are fairly common and not proprietary. The only downside seems to be that they lack large decals on the rims. Are we being drawn-in by the marketing hype or am I missing something? :bike:

[thwart]

I would consider a set of Campy Neutrons with a Shimano freehub.

Or one of the custom options mentioned above...

[RPS]

Since a climbing wheelset is probably going to become a descending wheelset I'm afraid of anything that doesn't have 32 spokes.

I sometimes think about what would happen if my 16-spoke front wheel becomes 15-spoke at speeds in excess of 30 or 40 MPH. Would the failure stop at one spoke? I hope so but don't know for sure. With 28 I feel a lot safer -- makes riding more enjoyable for me.

[cmg]

check out Bicycle wheel warehouse http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=9

the blackset race SL seams to meet the parameters, light rim 32 spokes on the rear 28 on the front for around $500

[Dan Le foot]

[QUOTE=Tobias]Dan, I'm not sure why you think this. In fact, I could make a case for having a prosthetic leg making it harder on wheels.


Sure would like to hear your case, Tobias. ;)
I'm certainly not generating as much power with it. Pretty much along for the ride on the upstroke. I can get a bit or power on the down stroke. Maybe 50% of the real one.
Dan

[zap]

GiveJermey @ Alchemy a call. Kinlin rim with cx-ray spokes laced to DT swiss hubs.

Agree with another poster. Best factory climbing wheel has got to be Bonty xxx....if you can find a new set for US$1K.

[Tobias]

[QUOTE=Tobias]Dan, I'm not sure why you think this. In fact, I could make a case for having a prosthetic leg making it harder on wheels.


Sure would like to hear your case, Tobias. ;)
I'm certainly not generating as much power with it. Pretty much along for the ride on the upstroke. I can get a bit or power on the down stroke. Maybe 50% of the real one.
Dan
Dan, two reasons came to mind initially.

Firstly, maximum or peak forces usually break things, not “power”. When a typical rider has two “near-equal” legs doing the pedaling, each leg is not necessarily much stronger than your left leg. Hence, given similar circumstances, your “strong” leg may apply as much force on the down stroke as a typical rider. You just supply fewer pulses, but I’d guess that since you pedal with asymmetry that your pedal stroke is probably more intense (out of necessity) than if you had two equal legs. Your use of a triple is somewhat of confirmation that you probably transfer more torque over a shorter angle to keep the bike rolling uphill. With two equal legs each would do about half the work per revolution, hence peak loads are probably lower.

Secondly, and more importantly, I’d guess you probably don’t get out of the saddle as often as most riders, which means that when you hit unexpected bumps the wheels take a little more of an impact versus a rider the same size that could lift off the saddle with greater ease. This is just speculation on my part, but if correct it would make a case for stronger wheels, not lighter ones based on you producing less overall power.

[Dan Le foot]

[QUOTE=Dan Le foot][COLOR=Red]
Dan, two reasons came to mind initially.

Firstly, maximum or peak forces usually break things, not “power”. When a typical rider has two “near-equal” legs doing the pedaling, each leg is not necessarily much stronger than your left leg. Hence, given similar circumstances, your “strong” leg may apply as much force on the down stroke as a typical rider. You just supply fewer pulses, but I’d guess that since you pedal with asymmetry that your pedal stroke is probably more intense (out of necessity) than if you had two equal legs. Your use of a triple is somewhat of confirmation that you probably transfer more torque over a shorter angle to keep the bike rolling uphill. With two equal legs each would do about half the work per revolution, hence peak loads are probably lower.

Secondly, and more importantly, I’d guess you probably don’t get out of the saddle as often as most riders, which means that when you hit unexpected bumps the wheels take a little more of an impact versus a rider the same size that could lift off the saddle with greater ease. This is just speculation on my part, but if correct it would make a case for stronger wheels, not lighter ones based on you producing less overall power.
Interesting Tobias and thanks for your take.
I actually spend a lot of time out of the saddle on the climbs. Gives me a break on the long grinds. I can shift to a lower gear and use my weight to generate more force on the drive side down stroke. I can actually pick up speed while lowering my cardio. But I can only stand for a minute or two at a time.
Dan

[chakatrain]

I've been quite happy with my 1450g dt swiss mon chasseral set. Plus they match my white Look 585!

These replaced an '05 Kysrium wheelset that got blown around in crosswinds too much for my liking. Paid about $500 for the used dt swiss mon chasseral set. They're about $1K US new, I think.

The handbuilt route is interesting...would like to go down that route one day.

[thegunner]

Wheelset threads are interesting in that it seems that the factory-built wheels offer no comparative advantage that hand-built wheels other than "bling" factor? :confused:

In many cases, handbuilts are lighter and easier to repair, plus use parts (hubs, spokes) that are fairly common and not proprietary. The only downside seems to be that they lack large decals on the rims. Are we being drawn-in by the marketing hype or am I missing something? :bike:

amen :D

[Kirk007]

lots of good choices. I have two sets of handbuilt - Kinlin 27 rims, Record hubs or White Industries, 32 spokes - Sapim laser/race drive side, alloy nipples - 1500 grams with rim strip. Light, strong, reliable, easy to fix if necessary - more ride em and forget 'em wheels - they do the job but they don't have the stiff feel of something like a Kysrium if you like that sensation.

On the other hand I've got a set of Campy protons that went up and down the Alps and after 8 years are still going strong. The Campy wheels have earned a reputation for being bombproof. Ultra neutrons around 1480g, shamal 2 way at 1440g. One of these will be my next wheel set and I have no concerns re reliability. And I'm considerably larger than you.

[TAW]

Wheelset threads are interesting in that it seems that the factory-built wheels offer no comparative advantage that hand-built wheels other than "bling" factor? :confused:

In many cases, handbuilts are lighter and easier to repair, plus use parts (hubs, spokes) that are fairly common and not proprietary. The only downside seems to be that they lack large decals on the rims. Are we being drawn-in by the marketing hype or am I missing something? :bike:

It's important to remember that "factory built" wheels are wheel systems designed for a specific purpose, therefore the hubs and spokes and rim are designed to work together. Factory built wheels can shave weight in certain areas based on the design, and so I'm not sure it is true that handbuilts are often lighter. Also, given the fact that many on this forum (me included) take the decals off of wheels, it's not necessarily bling factor that's the draw. Pre built wheels are readily available, and some of them are very reliable, requiring little maintenance. It really comes down to what you want in a wheel. :)

[djg]

lots of good choices. . . .
On the other hand I've got a set of Campy protons that went up and down the Alps and after 8 years are still going strong. The Campy wheels have earned a reputation for being bombproof. Ultra neutrons around 1480g, shamal 2 way at 1440g. One of these will be my next wheel set and I have no concerns re reliability. And I'm considerably larger than you.

Campy wheels are GOOD. My brother is still riding my old Eurus wheels -- respectable weight, completely stable in corners, and I don't think the things have ever needed to be trued in 5 or 6 years or whatever of use. When I take my bike to the mountains in NC (the wife's family has a place in Balsam), I usually take my old nucleons (renamed the neutron the next year in the campy line) -- light, strong, stable, and reliable: pick four.

[tylercheung]

out of curiousity, have people be able to compare the chris king-built chris king wheels with chris king wheels built by other folks, i.e. colorado cyclist, etc, etc?

[Keith A]

I would also think about DT Mon Chasserals and the DuraAce 7850-sl wheels. Those, along with the Hed Ardennes and maybe K-SLs, a Bontrager set, and a set of handbuilts from Excelsports (which are pretty similar to DTs wheels) would be on my short list.He's another vote for the Dura-Ace 7850-SL's. Great set of wheels which are in the weight range you are considering and you can run these tubeless or with standard clinchers and tubes. Very high quality product for both the rims and hubs!

[tylercheung]

check out Bicycle wheel warehouse http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=9

the blackset race SL seams to meet the parameters, light rim 32 spokes on the rear 28 on the front for around $500

the open pro/ultegra ones are $275! ;)

[sand fungus]

I have a set of Bontager race lite wheels that have been nothing but trouble, so I would not go that direction. I am only 190lbs but the Bontrager rear wheel has not stayed true. I also had two spokes blow out on the RAMROD ride last year and the wheels were only a month old. Luckily my LBS is standing behind the wheels, I have had the rear replaced. Even so the new wheel has been out of true twice since then.
I have been thinking of going the custom build route on what I do to replace these wheels.

[dekindy]

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/MAVCBQ46

How about these on closeout?

[anomaly]

Heavier and worse riding than pretty much any option in that price range. Another vote for Campy Neutron with the Shimano freehub body.

[LegendRider]

He's another vote for the Dura-Ace 7850-SL's. Great set of wheels which are in the weight range you are considering and you can run these tubeless or with standard clinchers and tubes. Very high quality product for both the rims and hubs!

I'm very pleased with my 7850-SLs. It's a great all-around wheelset - light enough, strong, comfy especially when run tubeless - there are no major drawbacks that I can see. The 7850-C24 tubeless is tough to find, but would be high on my list as well.

[oldpotatoe]

Wheelset threads are interesting in that it seems that the factory-built wheels offer no comparative advantage that hand-built wheels other than "bling" factor? :confused:

In many cases, handbuilts are lighter and easier to repair, plus use parts (hubs, spokes) that are fairly common and not proprietary. The only downside seems to be that they lack large decals on the rims. Are we being drawn-in by the marketing hype or am I missing something? :bike:

Not missing a thing......

[93legendti]

Ergott
Jeremy@Alchemy
Dave Thomas

can all do wonders for you

I'd also consider Ti Design's climbing advice. I'd think you could get real benefit using your hip flexors and glutes properly when climbing-if your right leg will allow that.

Can you pedal one legged with your right leg?

[CPP]

Aren't Zipp 202's any good?

[jbrainin]

For less than $650, you can buy a pair of Nimble Spiders. They're very light, well built and priced great. You can check them out at www.nimble.net .

[Dan Le foot]

Can you pedal one legged with your right leg?
Hey Adam.
I can. But only enough power to get it up to 10mph on the flats.

I guess I just need more CF. :beer:
Dan

[dave thompson]

Nice 'gam' Dan! :D

I'll be in your neighborhood in a couple of weeks.

[Ken Robb]

Nice 'gam' Dan! :D

I'll be in your neighborhood in a couple of weeks.

we can hardly wait. :) :beer: :banana: