All-around wheel recommendations

[tkbike]

Looking for recommendations for an all-around set of clincher wheels for a 175 pound rider. I purchased a Strong off the forum and need a set of wheels to complete the build. I have a set of Zipp CSC's that I have been moving back and forth between my Fierte IT and the Strong. I have a set of Neuvation R28 Aero 3's that have been relegated primarily for use indoors on the trainer. I like the way the Zipps spin up and have held up for everyday use, I am looking for a set of wheels somewhere between the Zipps and the Neuvations. With kids in college and the Holidays coming I would like to keep the price below $500. What do you recommend for a reasonably light, durable wheel that spins up fast and will last me many miles? Am I asking to much? Both bikes are full Dura-Ace 7800 drivetrains.
Thanks

[MRB]

My vote would be for a set of handbuilts. You have not specified what drivetrain you use, so it is difficult to be specific. You could not go wrong with a set of DT Swiss 1.1 rims and DT Swiss 240S hubs. Handbuilt (by Joe Young or the like) 3 cross double butted wheelsmith spokes, brass nipples, 32 hole. I think I just shot down your price point by about $200 though.

Hope this helps.

[dd74]

+1 MRB...

Once I went custom handbuilt, I'm never going back.

[Pete Serotta]

THe DTs will be more than 500. A friend got a pair from Exel in Boulder and I think they were 599. Joe Young builds a wonderful wheel but the cost will be over your budget of 500 give him a call and see what he can do for the budget you have, They will be good if he recommends them.

[bluto]

Please pardon my stupidity, but how can handbuilts be that much better?

I ask in seek of knowledge, not doubt. Can a wheel be built by telling a builder "I weigh 200 lbs, do zero climbing, and want a stiff wheel built for sprinting?" If that were the case, why couldn't i take a wheel that was already built and tell them what i'm looking for and have that 'factory' built wheel re-trued, or re-aligned to what i'm looking for?

Or am i just not "getting it?"

Sorry in advance for the ignorance.

[vqdriver]

don't know if you're running campy or not, but i've had very good luck with their wheels. i just got my second set of used eurus for ~500. i just can't bring myself to drop nearly a G on a new set of what i'd want.

for my everyday, heck, my only wheels, i've been very happy.

[terrytnt]

Another vote for Campy built wheels. I have a set of Neutron and Shamal tubulars and NEVER have problems. This winter I plan to purchase a set of Shamal Ultra 2-way Clinchers (my first set of clinchers.... with tubeless of course).

Campy is an outstanding set of wheels!!!

[tkbike]

I have been looking at the Campy wheels and see they are available with Shimano hubs, would the bike GODS strike me down for using them with a Shimano drivetrain?

[thwart]

Ride with some fishing line in your pocket just in case...

[paczki]

Just buy these. Great deal, great seller:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=66201&highlight=mon

[Ozz]

Just buy these. Great deal, great seller:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=66201&highlight=mon
+100

If these had been campy.....oh mama.

[dekindy]

http://www.williamscycling.com/sys30/sys30.html
These get very high marks. Watch the video.

http://www.rolwheels.com/rol_volant_wheels.php
These are good also and are $100 cheaper than the Williams. Tons of reviews on Roadbikerider.com.

Read about both on Roadbikereview.com
http://www.roadbikereview.com/mfr/williamscycling/MPR_13617crx.aspx
http://www.roadbikereview.com/mfr/rolwheels/MPR_13414crx.aspx

[bkboom123]

those wheels wouldn't match the Strong though, not even close :rolleyes:

they would look sweet on something like a 2007 S-works Roubaix though, damn tuition...... :crap:

[Louis]

I don't think any wheelset with only 20 spokes in front and 24 in back could ever be considered "all-around." Call me nuts if you like.

[vqdriver]

I have been looking at the Campy wheels and see they are available with Shimano hubs, would the bike GODS strike me down for using them with a Shimano drivetrain?

Do it. No ones paying attn to see if it matches. Or maybe look at fulcrum if it bugs you

other suggestions of course are used hed c2 or the American classic sprint 350 which were all the rage and have seen to have fallen to other trendier sets.

[don compton]

Another vote for Campy built wheels. I have a set of Neutron and Shamal tubulars and NEVER have problems. This winter I plan to purchase a set of Shamal Ultra 2-way Clinchers (my first set of clinchers.... with tubeless of course).

Campy is an outstanding set of wheels!!! i have 3 sets of neutron wheels. they are extremely durable, but if a spoke breaks, you need to purchase a special pack of spokes and ferrules from campy(very pricey).
after my experiences with these expensive after market wheelsets, i am sticking with handbuilts. i will just cut back on the good "zin" ( not ). :argue:

[zott28]

I'm 190lb and a fan of Easton wheels. I feel they offer the best bang for you buck. R4 hubs are smooth, everything stays straight, and I live in San Francisco, so that's hard to do. (rim shot, hey oh) but the pot holes here do suck and all my Easton's are great.

[JD Smith]

Please pardon my stupidity, but how can handbuilts be that much better?

I ask in seek of knowledge, not doubt. Can a wheel be built by telling a builder "I weigh 200 lbs, do zero climbing, and want a stiff wheel built for sprinting?" If that were the case, why couldn't i take a wheel that was already built and tell them what i'm looking for and have that 'factory' built wheel re-trued, or re-aligned to what i'm looking for?

Or am i just not "getting it?"

Sorry in advance for the ignorance.

Just as there are different bike frames for different applications, some stiff, rugged frames for sprinters, some light frames for climbing, some specific time trial frames, etc, there are different wheels for different applications. Many times these specific factory/boutique wheels use special rims/hubs and spokes, all which cost a LOT to replace if broken, or take weeks to replace. Many factory rims and hubs use special spokes, so you may not be able to use different spokes with either the rim or hub. When you factor in the cost of the initial factory build wheel plus the cost of a rebuild, it's cheaper to just get the hand-builts from the start.
A custom built wheel will likely use common spokes that cost $1, rims that cost $50 and are available in three or four different spoke counts, and common Campy, Shimano, or DT Swiss hubs. So the cost of repairing a hand-built is cheaper than repairing a factory built wheel.
Rims come in different depth, weight and spoke counts. Spokes come in different gauges. Wheels can be built with different crossing patterns. A builder can choose from all these possible combinations to build the proper wheel for the proper application, from scratch, and often with a lifetime guarantee.
A builder can't take a shallow box sectioned 24 spoke rim from a factory wheel and turn it into the proper wheel for a 200 lb sprinter. Likewise, a builder can't take a 32 spoke deep section rim from a factory wheel and turn it into the ideal wheel for a 120 lb climber.

There's every chance a 150 lbs rider who only does flat weekend rides doesn't need a special spoke count, rim depth, or lacing pattern. But maybe that rider can only afford one wheelset, can't afford to pay $30 for a special replacement spoke, and won't like the idea of waiting a week for the part to come in. So he chooses a simple hand-built wheel using common spokes.
Maybe another rider has his eyes on the newest boutique wheel with special spokes, rims, and hubs, but he's a worry-wort. He doesn't want to invest in an unproven design. So for peace of mind, he chooses the tried and true route of the hand built wheel.

[Elefantino]

Buy American Classic Sprint 350s.

Put tires on.

Ride happy.

[dogdriver]

If you want to keep in American (what with the Montana frame and all) White H2 hubs and DT 1.1 rims won't stretch your budget too much. I run a pair of these on an IF steel frame and have no complaints. Also a big fan of the CK/DT combo, but you'd have to go used to stay under $500 (not a bad option, either).

My $.02, Chris

[endosch2]

I have been looking at the Campy wheels and see they are available with Shimano hubs, would the bike GODS strike me down for using them with a Shimano drivetrain?

You can get them with Shimano hubs.

I bought a set of Zhondas for back-up that are awesome. $520 from Wiggle. The Zhondas nice for the buck - maybe 5 ounces heavier than my Ksyrium SLS that are my main ride.

[bluto]

Just as there are different bike frames for different applications, some stiff, rugged frames for sprinters, some light frames for climbing, some specific time trial frames, etc, there are different wheels for different applications. Many times these specific factory/boutique wheels use special rims/hubs and spokes, all which cost a LOT to replace if broken, or take weeks to replace. Many factory rims and hubs use special spokes, so you may not be able to use different spokes with either the rim or hub. When you factor in the cost of the initial factory build wheel plus the cost of a rebuild, it's cheaper to just get the hand-builts from the start.
A custom built wheel will likely use common spokes that cost $1, rims that cost $50 and are available in three or four different spoke counts, and common Campy, Shimano, or DT Swiss hubs. So the cost of repairing a hand-built is cheaper than repairing a factory built wheel.
Rims come in different depth, weight and spoke counts. Spokes come in different gauges. Wheels can be built with different crossing patterns. A builder can choose from all these possible combinations to build the proper wheel for the proper application, from scratch, and often with a lifetime guarantee.
A builder can't take a shallow box sectioned 24 spoke rim from a factory wheel and turn it into the proper wheel for a 200 lb sprinter. Likewise, a builder can't take a 32 spoke deep section rim from a factory wheel and turn it into the ideal wheel for a 120 lb climber.

There's every chance a 150 lbs rider who only does flat weekend rides doesn't need a special spoke count, rim depth, or lacing pattern. But maybe that rider can only afford one wheelset, can't afford to pay $30 for a special replacement spoke, and won't like the idea of waiting a week for the part to come in. So he chooses a simple hand-built wheel using common spokes.
Maybe another rider has his eyes on the newest boutique wheel with special spokes, rims, and hubs, but he's a worry-wort. He doesn't want to invest in an unproven design. So for peace of mind, he chooses the tried and true route of the hand built wheel.

THANKS for the info!

[terrytnt]

How does Ribble compare with Wiggle for prices and service? Especially if interested in Campy built wheels...

[paczki]

I'm 190lb and a fan of Easton wheels. I feel they offer the best bang for you buck. R4 hubs are smooth, everything stays straight, and I live in San Francisco, so that's hard to do. (rim shot, hey oh) but the pot holes here do suck and all my Easton's are great.

R4 hubs are awesome.

[oldpotatoe]

Looking for recommendations for an all-around set of clincher wheels for a 175 pound rider. I purchased a Strong off the forum and need a set of wheels to complete the build. I have a set of Zipp CSC's that I have been moving back and forth between my Fierte IT and the Strong. I have a set of Neuvation R28 Aero 3's that have been relegated primarily for use indoors on the trainer. I like the way the Zipps spin up and have held up for everyday use, I am looking for a set of wheels somewhere between the Zipps and the Neuvations. With kids in college and the Holidays coming I would like to keep the price below $500. What do you recommend for a reasonably light, durable wheel that spins up fast and will last me many miles? Am I asking to much? Both bikes are full Dura-Ace 7800 drivetrains.
Thanks

Ultegra hubset(6700), DT 1.1(double eyelet) or Velocity Aerohead(off center rear), DT double butted spokes all around, 32, 3 cross, brass nipples, built by a good wheelbuilder. Less than $500.

[TMB]

Ultegra hubset(6700), DT 1.1(double eyelet) or Velocity Aerohead(off center rear), DT double butted spokes all around, 32, 3 cross, brass nipples, built by a good wheelbuilder. Less than $500.


I just wish someone would make a Campy freehub to fit Ultegra hubs.

I use Ultegra hubs frequently, they are relatively cheap and pretty bomb-proof, but almost all of my bikes are Campag. ( 1 is SRAM).

I end up using Am Classic cassettes for the Campag bikes. They work fine, no complaints at all, but would be nice to be able to use the same Campag ones as the other bikes.

[sc53]

I've been using these http://www.bicyclebuys.com/wheels/WheelRoad/0508008 for nearly 5 yrs and they have run quiet, sturdy and true. I just had them trued this week in the course of a tune-up of the whole bike at my LBS and they only needed minimal tweaking. Great wheels!

[14max]

*****

[endosch2]

How does Ribble compare with Wiggle for prices and service? Especially if interested in Campy built wheels...

I got my wheels from Wiggle in four days (to New Hampshire) from time of order. Shorter than shipments from Colorado Cyclist to NH.

I have never used Ribble.

[rounder]

I have never bought anything from Ribble, but bought a set of neutrons from Wiggle last spring. The wheels cost $470 and were delivered in less than a week with no postage or sales tax charges. Based on that, i bought some tires and chains from Wiggle and had similar results.

[veggieburger]

Campy makes Fulcrum wheels....both get high marks for durability.

[572cv]

Vermont has not beaten up hed bastognes in a season, dirt, mediocre macadam, all good. They can be had reasonably from time to time online.

I like the Revolution Wheelworks Rev 22s. My daughter raced on them all year. Still smooth and true. and light.

http://www.revolutionwheelworks.com/

[JD Smith]

THANKS for the info!

It was a good question. I used to think people got custom wheels just so say they got "custom" wheels, or they were retro grouches who have a dogmatic opposition to "factory" anything.
The wheels on most entry level bikes are fine. The manufacturers can't predict what kind of rider will wind up buying the bike, so they can put on a kind of generic factory made wheelset to keep the price of the bike low. Once a rider has the experience to know what kind of rider he is, and what kind of riding he will be doing, then he has enough information to give to a customer wheel builder to assembly something specific to his needs. But there's every chance that the rider will find that the original factory wheels are exactly what he needs.

[terrytnt]

Thanks for the comments regarding Wiggle vs. Ribble... sounds like they would be an optimal choice given the significant discount from the UK... only down side when you purchase from the UK the US warrantee is nullified.

[jpw]

go for all round wheels

[TMB]

go for all round wheels


Much better than square wheels .............. :)