Lube in a pinch

[false_Aest]

Let's say you jsut washed your bike and discover you've run out of chainlube.

You have a 50 mile ride to do in 15 min.

You have access to

Spray-On white lithium grease (aerosol)

AND

Spray-On Silicone Lube (Aerosol)

Which one do you use.
-----

NOTE: I know the proper way to do this stuff. That's not my question. I know it's better to go run out and buy lube.... but that's not in the equation.

[Tobias]

WD-40.

And have 14 minutes to burn. :beer:

[Kines]

all I know is I almost chose not to open this thread after reading the title.

KN

[Steve in SLO]

One vote for silicon lube, since I wouldn't look forward to cleaning off the lithium grease afterwards.

[alancw3]

spray on silicone lube that you use to lube your garage door rollers and track.

[dogdriver]

You have a 50 mile ride to do in 15 min.




I attended 16 years of public school so I may not be the sharpest tack in the pile, but do you really think that chain lube choice is going to contribute to increasing your average speed to 200mph? If it works, I'll take a case.

:banana:

It's early, Chris

[Dave]

I'd go for the silicone too. I'd spray it on real heavy, up close with a folded paper shop towel held under the chain to catch the overspray. The spray grease wouldn't be very likely to penetrate where it's needed.

Some silicone lubes are not dry and actually contain a light oil. I found that out the hard way. I bought a can, wanting a dry lube for speedplay cleats and got a wet version.

WD-40 will work just fine for one ride, but it will result in more chain wear if used as the only lube for a chain. I know this for a fact because I used it for 1500 miles as a test. I got more chain elongation than ever before.

I prefer a homebrew mix of 3-4 parts naptha with 1 part gear lube.

[John M]

The spray silicon lube--but if you have some other oil around use that (3-in-1, motor oil, even mineral oil would work for one ride), just drip it on and wipe off the excess. These would attract dirt, but would provide decent lubrication.

[palincss]

I'd take a different bike, one that was all set up to ride. I'd also make a mental note to prepare in advance better next time.

Washing and lubing a bike 15 minutes before it's time to leave is cutting it far too close for me; by that time I've already made and packed sandwiches, filled my water bottles and am making a final visit to the loo.

[palincss]

WD-40 will work just fine for one ride, but it will result in more chain wear if used as the only lube for a chain. I know this for a fact because I used it for 1500 miles as a test. I got more chain elongation.

WD-40 is really nasty stuff to put on a chain. It turns into black gunk with such staining power if you get it on your clothes it will never come out. It's also not a good lube, as noted above.

[Dave]

WD-40 has no more tendency to produce black ooze that any other light oil or homebrew mix. It just has to be applied long before riding the bike to allow time for the solvent to evaporate, just like most homebrews, or it will splatter onto the rear wheel when ridden. In that regard, applying it 15 minutes before a ride would be bad.

[false_Aest]

I'd take a different bike, one that was all set up to ride. I'd also make a mental note to prepare in advance better next time.

Washing and lubing a bike 15 minutes before it's time to leave is cutting it far too close for me; by that time I've already made and packed sandwiches, filled my water bottles and am making a final visit to the loo.

Your response doesn't answer the question.

=====

[rugbysecondrow]

Not to change the question but how much lube would actually be lost from the cleaning and couldn't you just ride it as is? Doesn't most lube work its way into the chain well enough when it is done properly that after a cleaning, it doesn't all come out?

I know this wasn't your question, but seems a natural follow up as I would probably ride without new lube (as is). I am also not terribly anal about these things.

[false_Aest]

So the actual story is this:

I had a really really slow day at work yesterday so I decided to wash my bike.

I spaced on having chain lube... looked around and found the two lubes mentioned.

My commute to/from work isn't so long so I posed the hypothetical question.

In actuality, I rode the bike home w/out lube because I only hit the chain with simple green and not de-greaser--there was enough left over (though the chain was louder than I like).

My reasoning was simply that I didn't wanna ride home and have to wash the bike again to clean lith or silicone off the chain.

[Tobias]

WD-40 is really nasty stuff to put on a chain. It turns into black gunk with such staining power if you get it on your clothes it will never come out. It's also not a good lube, as noted above.
It’s good to know I’ve been riding with poor chain lube because it means I must be working at a harder level than I thought. :beer:

[Tobias]

WD-40 has no more tendency to produce black ooze that any other light oil or homebrew mix. It just has to be applied long before riding the bike to allow time for the solvent to evaporate, just like most homebrews, or it will splatter onto the rear wheel when ridden. In that regard, applying it 15 minutes before a ride would be bad.
I apply it right before each ride and get excellent chain life. When first recommended by a very wise man I applied it directly to the chain and it made a huge mess. I then started applying a generous amount onto a clean cloth and wiping the chain with it three or four times or until the cloth comes out relatively clean. I then wash my hands, hit the head, put on my shoes and helmet and go out for a ride. I’d guess on average I typically start riding within 5 or 10 minutes after cleaning the chain.

In any case I get far more than 1500 miles from a Shimano 9-speed chain without noticing any stretch-related problems. And because it takes me less than one minute to do the cleaning (and lubing :confused: ) there is no way I’m going back to regular chain lube. I just don’t have the patience for it ….. would rather replace chains more often (not that I have to ;) ).

[false_Aest]

It’s good to know I’ve been riding with poor chain lube because it means I must be working at a harder level than I thought. :beer:

I wonder how lube affects power readings.

[Tobias]

I wonder how lube affects power readings.
I think dirt may do more harm than lube does good. Just a hunch on my part because I can really feel a gummy chain making me slower.

When I used various types of chain lube it took so much more effort and time to apply that I didn’t lube before each ride, so I ended up with chains that on average had more dirt on them. For my level of maintenance (or lack thereof) I got just about the same or worse chain wear, and when the chain was dirty it had more friction (felt gummy) because I occasionally got a stiff link causing a jump across the cassette. Since I started using WD-40 prior to every ride I haven’t had a stiff link skip.

[54ny77]

now that's funny! :D


Washing and lubing a bike 15 minutes before it's time to leave is cutting it far too close for me; by that time I've already made and packed sandwiches....

[WadePatton]

*neither, i'd pull the dipstick out of the nearest vehicle i could raise the hood on.

and make a personal note not to wash the bike without lube on hand for next time. ;)

[Bob Ross]

In actuality, I rode the bike home w/out lube because I only hit the chain with simple green and not de-greaser

Simple Green is a de-greaser.

from the http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php website:

"Please be aware that, because Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green are water-based degreasers, regular metal equipment will eventually rust. It is recommended that the switch to a water-based degreaser be accompanied by a switch to either stainless-steel or thermoplastic equipment. "

[false_Aest]

Simple Green is a de-greaser.

from the http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions_faqs.php website:

"Please be aware that, because Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green are water-based degreasers, regular metal equipment will eventually rust. It is recommended that the switch to a water-based degreaser be accompanied by a switch to either stainless-steel or thermoplastic equipment. "

I stand corrected BUT I think you know what I meant.

[sg8357]

Italian chain lube, extra virgin olive oil.
If it is too thick, cut with a little of last nights red.

[woolly]

*neither, i'd pull the dipstick out of the nearest vehicle i could raise the hood on.

Wade Patton hits nuthin' but net with this one, atmo.

On a pretty semi-related note, I can recall an instance in my BMX racing youth where I tore down the hubs, BB, and headset on my race machine very late the night right before the race, and without checking to make sure I had grease to repack the bearings. Of course, I didn't, but a liberal slathering of Vaseline got me through one day of racing. I was certainly mediocre, so it's not like it was holding me back any.

[victoryfactory]

Simple Green is a de-greaser.


That is correct.
Also WD-40 IS A DEGREASER (cleaner)
Not a true lube, as 99% of people think. Even though it does leave an
oily finish.

It is the single most misused (as a lube) product out there.

Most people think it is a lube because when you spray it on. the item stops
squeaking (for a while) but that is just because of it's cleaning and
degreasing ability. You can get the same temporary reaction with water!

Just sprayin'

VF

[Charles M]

Bingo...


WD-40 is a solvent / penetrator.

It's a bond breaker and cleaner designed to make something move "right now" and not designed as prolonged friction fighter designed to protect metal on metal over time.

It doesnt turn in to Crud or black goo... It's just cutting away gunk and metal particles that usually form in metal on metal situations.


It as well as that Silicone spray lube are very good cleaners and the residue isnt as bad for metal as some cleaners and degreasers are.

Followed with a good lubricant, it's not bad for chains...




Back on topic, the better emergancy lube between the two above is the Silicone spray. It also cleans and penetrates and it's not really meant as lasting anti friction, but it leaves behind a slight residue that wont help much but wont harm much either...

The Lith grease will be tougher to clean and for 50 miles it wont prevent much more damage than the silicone.



My choice for emergency lube is a partially used bottle of full synthetic motor oil. My lube of choice is straight prolong engine treatment.

[Dave]

Wiping a chain using a rag dampened with WD-40 or similar oil/solvent mixture will make the outside of the chain look nice, but do almost nothing to lube the chain properly. Enough lube has to be applied to flow inside the roller, where it then migrates on to the pin and bushing. I wipe my chain after ever ride. Sometimes just with a dry rag and other times with a little mineral spirits. Lubing is done every 2-3 rides. Home brews with slow drying solvents need many hours for the solvent to evaporate off. I used naptha rather than mineral spirits for a little faster evaporation.

[victoryfactory]

Pez's mention of using syn motor oil reminded me of one of my
favorite tricks:

When I'm out on a long ride and I get an annoying squeak or other problem
requiring lube, I just find a gas station and go into the trash can for an
empty oil can. There will be more than enough left in there to lube your bike.

VF, dumpster diver

[Tobias]

Also WD-40 IS A DEGREASER (cleaner)
Not a true lube, as 99% of people think. Even though it does leave an
oily finish.

It is the single most misused (as a lube) product out there.

Most people think it is a lube because when you spray it on. the item stops
squeaking (for a while) but that is just because of it's cleaning and
degreasing ability. You can get the same temporary reaction with water!

Just sprayin'

VF
So if WD-40 shouldn’t work because it isn’t a lubricant, then why has it been working for me? I get great chain life and it never squeaks so I’ve never been forced to “dumpster dive” for motor oil at a convenience store.

The bottle says: LUBRICATES moving parts such as: Hinges, Wheels, Rollers, Chains, Gears
That can be marketing nonsense, but I found this reference which may be helpful:

“To understand how WD40 might work as a lubricant, we need to first understand its chemical composition. To do this, I went to WD40's Web site. While the marketing pitch lists the ingredients as "secret", the MSDS indicates the following: 60 to 70 percent petroleum distillates 15 to 25 percent base oil and 2 to 3 percent carbon dioxide. So it would appear that WD40 is simply a combination of petroleum products, mixed with a propellant (CO2).”

I’ll accept that it’s not a “good” lubricant, but why say it doesn’t lubricate?

Additionally, as Dave properly stated, a chain lubricant needs to work its way down to the pins and bushings. Considering the tight clearances of a bike chain, I don’t see how “grease” type lubricants or many that are thick and viscous can do much good in the first place. Oils yes, but thick chain lubes? What keeps them from remaining on the chain’s outer surfaces where they may “appear” to do a lot of good but maybe don’t migrate to where it is needed? Ultimately only chain friction (or lack of) and wear rate reveal what’s most important to me.

As long as WD-40 keeps working and my chain never squeaks I’ll continue using it before every ride because it only takes a minute.

[victoryfactory]

Paint thinner is also a petroleum product, and it will keep your
chain clean and running too, but technically its a solvent and
not a true lube. It won't protect your parts from wear and will
tend to make the drivetrain noisier.

Actually, I like ProLink which is not a lube either, but a
metal coating/protectant which penetrates well.

Go with what works for you.

VF

[Tobias]

Go with what works for you.

VF
Precisely. ;)