Torque Wrenches...

[oldguy00]

With regards to the click style torque wrenches, is there really much difference between the different brands withing the 70 - 120 dollar range? So Park, Pedros, Norbar (sp?), Pro (Shimano)? Are any of these more accurate, or stay calibrated, better than others? Or are they all made by the same company?
Like this one, that I see relabeled under many company names:
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T0102

[dsteady]

With regards to the click style torque wrenches, is there really much difference between the different brands withing the 70 - 120 dollar range? So Park, Pedros, Norbar (sp?), Pro (Shimano)? Are any of these more accurate, or stay calibrated, better than others? Or are they all made by the same company?
Like this one, that I see relabeled under many company names:
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T0102

I have one a lot like that, but maybe an earlier model. Same case, and I think it's a PBK. I learned an expensive lesson re torque wrenches recently: always, grasp from the bottom/grip of the wrench. I installed a stem plate and choked up on the handle, thinking there was less chance of accidentally twisting the Nm adjustment out of its setting. In fact I over-torqued the the bolts by about 3-4 Nms and ruined my alloy handlelbars.

Maybe everyone already knows this but it was an costly lesson for me.

[oldguy00]

I have one a lot like that, but maybe an earlier model. Same case, and I think it's a PBK. I learned an expensive lesson re torque wrenches recently: always, grasp from the bottom/grip of the wrench. I installed a stem plate and choked up on the handle, thinking there was less chance of accidentally twisting the Nm adjustment out of its setting. In fact I over-torqued the the bolts by about 3-4 Nms and ruined my alloy handlelbars.

Maybe everyone already knows this but it was an costly lesson for me.

But didn't you set the wrench to click at the appropriate torque?? I thought that was the whole idea of these, it lets you know when the proper torque is reached with a click so that you know when to stop, regardless of where on the handle you are holding it??

[bfd]

Why are you bothering with these "bicycle branded" torque wrenches? Why not go down to your nearest Sears and pick up a Craftsman? Its cheaper and works very well.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944596000P?keyword=torque+wrench

Further, if you wait, you can usually find it on sale.

Alternatively, if you need the "best," get yourself a Snap-on:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=953&store=snapon-store

Snap on also sells newton specific ones too.

Good Luck!

[Dave]

I use a cheap 35 year old Craftsman beam type torque wrench for BBs, cassette lockrings and the Campy UT center fixing bolt. Small bolts are always done with an experienced hand using either a short hex wrench or 4-5-6mm Y-style wrench. If you can't install bars and seatposts without the help of a torque wrench, how will you ever make adjustments out on the road?

The problem with all click types is they need recalibration or cross check with a beam type wrench that never needs calibration. Wiht beam type the pointer just has to read zero with no torque being applied.

[oldguy00]

....If you can't install bars and seatposts without the help of a torque wrench, how will you ever make adjustments out on the road?

The problem with all click types is they need recalibration or cross check with a beam type wrench that never needs calibration. Wiht beam type the pointer just has to read zero with no torque being applied.


Well, I've been doing my own bike work for 16 years now, but I just thought that I should get one now that everything is carbon, etc..

[Dekonick]

Buy Sears or similar. Believe me, other industries have been using torque wrenches longer than the bike world. You can pay more to get a blue tool, but why? Do you think NASA uses Park tools? Do you think they have anything that requires torque wrenches? Then again, they probably pay $5k for them...

[dsteady]

But didn't you set the wrench to click at the appropriate torque?? I thought that was the whole idea of these, it lets you know when the proper torque is reached with a click so that you know when to stop, regardless of where on the handle you are holding it??

Yes, I set it to click at the appropriate torque (Nm). But I choked up on the handle because on mine the Nm adjustment is made by twisting the grip and I was worried that when torquing from the grip I might accidentally adjust it higher or lower. What I was subsequently told by a shop wrench is that you must always hold it from the handle to get the right torque setting.

I put a heavy crimp in a brand new set of Deda Newton Allows bars.

FWIW, mine was $60, not the $275+ I see for uber cycling specific models.

[Ozz]

So what drive size(s) does one need for bicycle work? 1/4 or 3/8 or 1/2?? Do you need more than one?

What torque range(s) should the wrenches be?

Wondering cuz BB torque is much different than stem faceplate torque. Can you have a wrench that does it all, or would having a couple be best?

Thanks.

[572cv]

Lots of wrenches out there are sleek and sexy. I think accuracy and simplicity count for a lot. If you only use one in the home shop, you can compromise on a few things, but not accuracy. Some observations:
-Bar type, or dial type, are more durable. older style, simpler, easier to visually compensate for any calibration errors.
- If you are buying in the market under $100, its a choice between cheaper new stuff and occasionally quality used, i.e. snap on, etc.

I found a great Snap on TE 25 FUA for peanuts on the bay. With case. it has a 3/8 drive. With an adapter to 1/4" and a little set of metric allen wrench heads, I'm off and running, with a highly accurate easy to read set up. These are great wrenches.

Here's one almost gone:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SNAP-ON-TORQUE-WRENCH-3-8-DRIVE-300-LBS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27ac1146c5QQitemZ17 0390537925QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools


good discussion.

[Dave]

Ozz...

There is not one size that will handle all needs. A wrench with a large enough range to tighten a BB cup or cassette lockring must go to at least 50Nm and preferably 20% more. That same wrench would be inaccurate at 5Nm, so a small 1/4 inch drive is most often needed. The Park beam type is too small however. A small torque wrench needs to go up to 15-20Nm. to cover some of the M6 bolts that might require 9Nm or more.

I use a big 1/2 drive for items needing 30-50Nm, but a 3/8 drive is a more common choice.

[martinrjensen]

You can put a 5 foot cheater bar on a "click type" torque wrench, (or actually a spring bar type to) and it won't change a thing torque wise. If you set the torque at 30 lbs and you are 5 feet away on the end of the cheater bar, then YOU won't feel the thirty pounds, but the torque wrench will still click at the 30 lbs torque and that's when you are supposed to stop. If you are using the spring bar type, you just watch the indicator. So, don't wear sunglasses or headphones while torquing.I have one a lot like that, but maybe an earlier model. Same case, and I think it's a PBK. I learned an expensive lesson re torque wrenches recently: always, grasp from the bottom/grip of the wrench. I installed a stem plate and choked up on the handle, thinking there was less chance of accidentally twisting the Nm adjustment out of its setting. In fact I over-torqued the the bolts by about 3-4 Nms and ruined my alloy handlelbars.

Maybe everyone already knows this but it was an costly lesson for me.

[54ny77]

good point. along the same lines, if you use a 1/2" to 3/8" socket converter, i presume there's still no change in applied torque as well?

also, i've always wondered about the carbon paste claiming reduced need for spec'd torque, i.e., 6nm spec (for example) without paste, or 4nm if using paste. how on earth does that work? is it because of the little tiny particles of whatever goop it is fills in any tiny gaps, reducing the amount of force required to clamp whatever it is that needs clamping? :confused:

You can put a 5 foot cheater bar on a "click type" torque wrench, (or actually a spring bar type to) and it won't change a thing torque wise. If you set the torque at 30 lbs and you are 5 feet away on the end of the cheater bar, then YOU won't feel the thirty pounds, but the torque wrench will still click at the 30 lbs torque and that's when you are supposed to stop. If you are using the spring bar type, you just watch the indicator. So, don't wear sunglasses or headphones while torquing.

[malcolm]

So what drive size(s) does one need for bicycle work? 1/4 or 3/8 or 1/2?? Do you need more than one?

What torque range(s) should the wrenches be?

Wondering cuz BB torque is much different than stem faceplate torque. Can you have a wrench that does it all, or would having a couple be best?

Thanks.

I have 2 a park beam for low torque and a craftsman beam for bb and such. The park is 1/4 and the craftsman is 3/8, I have a full array of adapters and don't think they alter the reading. They seem to work fine.

[SpeedyChix]

I use a Sears click torque wrench for most things. Didn't go low enough so last year I got a super gift, a Effetto Mariposa torque wrench which takes care of all the low torques stuff.

[cleavel]

Hi,

A lot of questions and some misconceptions about torque wrenches.

Why are you bothering with these "bicycle branded" torque wrenches? Why not go down to your nearest Sears and pick up a Craftsman? Its cheaper and works very well.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944596000P?keyword=torque+wrench

Further, if you wait, you can usually find it on sale.

Alternatively, if you need the "best," get yourself a Snap-on:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=953&store=snapon-store

Snap on also sells newton specific ones too.

Good Luck!

The problem with Sears torque wrenches is that they don't make any with a low enough torque range. If you want 5 Nm on a wrench with a range of 3 Nm to 50 Nm you will probably end up over-torquing and breaking some fasteners or parts.

Snap-On does make a model or two that are suitable for low torque applications but they are pricey.

I use a cheap 35 year old Craftsman beam type torque wrench for BBs, cassette lockrings and the Campy UT center fixing bolt. Small bolts are always done with an experienced hand using either a short hex wrench or 4-5-6mm Y-style wrench. If you can't install bars and seatposts without the help of a torque wrench, how will you ever make adjustments out on the road?

The problem with all click types is they need recalibration or cross check with a beam type wrench that never needs calibration. Wiht beam type the pointer just has to read zero with no torque being applied.

I agree that you need to have a feel for torque on small fasteners. I have only been using a torque wrench for the past 5-6 years when I started riding carbon frames and using some carbon components. When you are in your garage use a torque wrench when specified or you risk breaking parts or having parts loosen up during a ride. Out on the road you'll use your experienced hands to get you home.

Buy Sears or similar. Believe me, other industries have been using torque wrenches longer than the bike world. You can pay more to get a blue tool, but why? Do you think NASA uses Park tools? Do you think they have anything that requires torque wrenches? Then again, they probably pay $5k for them...

I've never worked with NASA technicians but the techs and mechanics at the aerospace company where I work mostly use Snap-On torque wrenches which get re-calibrated to a very strict schedule. Snap-On is more expensive than Park.

So what drive size(s) does one need for bicycle work? 1/4 or 3/8 or 1/2?? Do you need more than one?

What torque range(s) should the wrenches be?

Wondering cuz BB torque is much different than stem faceplate torque. Can you have a wrench that does it all, or would having a couple be best?

Thanks.

I ended up buying a http://www.effettomariposa.com/giustaforza_fam_en.html#giustaforza_en torque wrench for low torque applications like stem bolts and seatpost clamps. There were several reviews on this wrench and the most important feature was torque calibration guarantee.

I have a Craftsman for high torque applications such as cassette lock rings.

Hope this helps.