Best compound to remove straches...

[Avispa]

I found a scratch on one of my carbon bikes. It is still a surface scratch, but deeper than the usual swirl marks we find on clear coats.

I purchased "Scratch Doctor", that comes on an orange bottle at the auto parts store, but it didn't do any good.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

..A..

[SoCalSteve]

When I had a similar situation, I went to my local body shop and they sold me a small can of very high end rubbing compound. It works wonders on clearcoat over carbon and paint.

I am not sure if this is something that is exclusive to body shops or something you can buy yourself at your local car parts store.

All I know is it works like a charm!

Good luck,

Steve

[johnnymossville]

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+G10307

I've used this for minor surface scratches on my Harley and it worked beautifully. Just take your time when you're using it so you don't go too far.

[PBWrench]

Mr. A -

Give this a try (but remember to wear long fingered gloves)!

Cheers, PBW

[staggerwing]

Ok, something I actually know about.

If the scratch is significant, it is a fools errand to "fix" it with compound. You are simply removing/lowering the surrounding good finish to the depth of the scratch. Far better to fill in the scratch with clear nail polish, clear lacquer, or even a quality clear epoxy, let it dry/harden a couple of days, carefully wet sand with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, only to the level of the surrounding finish, and hand compound to a sheen.

At a auto refinishers supply store, you can find 600, 800 and 1000 grit papers, hand rubbing compounds and 3M Imperial Hand Glazing Compound. Going through the succession of three papers is quicker than just going from the 600 to compound, although both will work fine.

The hand glazing compound is used after the rubbing compound to remove the slight remaining haze and generate an optical quality surface. Also works on refrigerators, granite countertops, CD's with minor scratches, and every vehicle that you own. It is not a wax however, so add that last step if you want an extra layer of oxidation protection. I don't hardly have time to wax a car anymore, and forget about the bicycle.

[Avispa]

When I had a similar situation, I went to my local body shop and they sold me a small can of very high end rubbing compound. It works wonders on clearcoat over carbon and paint.

Steve,

Did that can had any labels or name on it, or was it and alien compound of some sort?!! :eek:

A mane would be appreciated...

..A..

[SoCalSteve]

Steve,

Did that can had any labels or name on it, or was it and alien compound of some sort?!! :eek:

A mane would be appreciated...

..A..

Yeah, the guy just went in the back of his shop, filled up a small can with the rubbing compound and then asked me for $20.00...I paid it reluctantly (thinking I was being ripped off) but the stuff is so good I feel like it was a bargain!

Sorry that I couldnt be more help. But, I can only imagine that its a pretty common item at any good body shop.

Good luck!

Steve

PS: The gentleman who wrote about filling in the clearcoat, sanding, etc...is RIGHT ON! If the scratch is deep enough, this is a great way to bring it back to new.

[Ti Designs]

W.

[Pete Serotta]

The below is very good advice. Keep in mind that you have to either lower the surrounding surfaces to come close to matching the depth of scratch or you need to fill in the scratch and then match the surfaces. The question is which works better for your instance, A polish or compound or grit paper do the match of surfaces... Always start with the least abrasive and move to more. Good site for articles and firm to deal with is "carcareonline.com" owner is Larry. He has been in business for over 25 years and I have used him for over 20 for advice and products for my cars...


Ok, something I actually know about.

If the scratch is significant, it is a fools errand to "fix" it with compound. You are simply removing/lowering the surrounding good finish to the depth of the scratch. Far better to fill in the scratch with clear nail polish, clear

lacquer, or even a quality clear epoxy, let it dry/harden a couple of days, carefully wet sand with 600 grit silicon carbide paper, only to the level of the surrounding finish, and hand compound to a sheen.

At a auto refinishers supply store, you can find 600, 800 and 1000 grit papers, hand rubbing compounds and 3M Imperial Hand Glazing Compound. Going through the succession of three papers is quicker than just going from the 600 to compound, although both will work fine.

The hand glazing compound is used after the rubbing compound to remove the slight remaining haze and generate an optical quality surface. Also works on refrigerators, granite countertops, CD's with minor scratches, and every vehicle that you own. It is not a wax however, so add that last step if you want an extra layer of oxidation protection. I don't hardly have time to wax a car anymore, and forget about the bicycle.