Lights for road riding

[Ozz]

Does anyone have any opinions on a good lighting system for road riding? (rhetorical question of course...) Does one really need the $500 HID systems?

It is just plain dark in these latitudes until about 8:00, and if I want to get in any outdoor miles in the next couple months, I want to find something that will let me ride safely, including 35 mph descents and actually have time to stop before hitting the raccoon or to avoid the pothole...

As always your thoughts are appreciated!

[Ken Robb]

I have several dandy light systems including single and double NiteHawk battery lights and a Schmidt SON Dynohub. I wouldn't feel safe doing 35mph downhill with any of them. Maybe 25mph would be ok.

[jeffg]

systems are very pricey but worthwhile. I have used them in events where it gets dark and have descended at 35+ mph with confidence, though I have ridden the roads on a few occassions. The good ones really almost look like car headlights. Other riders with cheaper systems have always looked to the Niterider folks to light the way for them, so I think that says a lot. :banana:

[vandeda]

Is a $500 HID system necessary? Well .... I've gotten away without one including down 35 mph downhill descents .... but I also know the roads well so I know that there are no potholes, and I have a deal with the racoons not to jump out when I'm coming ... the squirrels have yet to pinky shake on it ;-) In all seriousness ... animals, heck, I've had a squirrel ride between the front & rear tire in daylight before I even realized what happened ... oh man, and this on the beginning of a ride on a demo Ottrot.

I use a Planet Bike Alias SC which has worked well for me. I got it cheap which was nice, but I seem to remember seeing HIDs for cheaper these days than $500. Clearly, the more light you got obviously the safer because you'll see potential dangers sooner ... and HIDs are nice because they combine super-bright with long battery life. And brighter is safer in terms of cars seeing you better.

So is it needed? Well, so many have gotten away without one up to this point, so no I would say it's not needed. But you'd probably be happier with the HID, so if you can afford it, go for it IMHO.

Dan

[J.M. White]

My advice - go with the best system you can afford. One wreck at 35 mph and you'll spend a lot more than $500.

Alternatively, slooow down and put a racoon catcher on the front. I've heard that Rivendell has some nice NOS lugged catchers that don't exceed 7 lbs. Titanium models will be lighter, but is more expensive.

[cpaq214]

I have two, $200 sets and both combined don't even come close to my HID. I regularly ride 24 hour mtn. bike races and one time set off with a helmet mount HID and a handle bar mount regular light. I couldn't even tell that $200 light on the handle bars was even on.

No question... you can't buy enough regular lights to equal an HID. Anymore, I don't even pull the other lights out.

[Homsie]

I have one of the Light and Motion Arc Cabezza HIDs with the nickel metal hydride battery and I absolutely love it! Battery life is excellent, (> 3 hours) and it allows me to comfortably descend at 25 mph. I don't think that 35 mph would be very comfortable, mainly because its cold at night and my eyes tear up, affecting my vision a bit...but even though the HID lights up the road pretty well, you might be hard pressed to avoid a pothole at that speed. The light pattern on the L& M HIDs are a bit different than the Night Rider HIDs in that the beam is a bit more focused. There is enough ambient light outside the beam to light up the road pretty well. I think that one of the best things about the HID lights is that it makes you very visible to drivers. Theres no mistaking that something's there! The battery is a bit heavy, but after a few minutes, I don't really notice that it's in the my center jersey pocket. If you'd like something lighter, go for one of the lithium ion batteries, but they're even more $$ (near $500). You can generally find the nickel metal hydride version for under $400.

James

[cdmc]

I would also highly recommend the L&M ARC. All the HID lamps are about the same brightness (they all use the same Welch Allen Balast and lamp), but the reflectors and other components vary from Manufacture to Manufacture. L&M makes underwater lighting equiptment and started in the bike market about 5 years ago. I have one of their lamps and it is topnotch, and their CS is much better than Niterider.

[csb]

i own a cabezza w a helmet lamp (3 way bulb) +
quick charge. 3 yrs and still enjoying it. the battery
lasts several hours, and is a bit smaller than the kind of box
stick matches come in. i slip the battery in my middle
back pocket and thread the wire up thru my helmet
to the velcro'd on lamp mount. i suppose one could mount
the lamp on the handlebars and then secure the battery
in a reconfigured water bottle to be used up front in
a bottle cage.

while designed for mountain bike use, i use it on the
road, going around my local parks loop (very limited
vehicular traffic). i ride the streets to get to the park, and
with all the street lights in the city i do not NEED it to see,
i need it to help me be SEEN,
and as a matter of fact i had a car driver thank me, acknowledging
how much the light helped him see me.

if i recall correctly, it was $250 (?)
its well made, i highly recommend it.

[jwb96]

I use a two-bulb halogen Marwi Kamikaze for my commute, and it works okay just on the low-beam (10w). I do one hill at 30+ with some street lighting, and another around 30 in pitch black. I know if something does jump out (and it's likely to be a moose or deer, not some insignificant racoon!) I'm screwed though.

The L&M ARC's get great reviews, and on eBay you can pick one up for $320 with the NiMH battery - there's a seller who puts them on there regularly.

Cygolight has a HID out now that's under $300 new. I haven't heard any reviews, but if all the bulbs and ballasts come from the same place . . .

I'm going to switch to a HID more for my own visibility to drivers than anything.

[jwb96]

The L&M ARC's get great reviews, and on eBay you can pick one up for $320 with the NiMH battery - there's a seller who puts them on there regularly.

They're on eBay now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7124190528&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I'm not the seller, and I've never bought from him, but he has over 2000 feedback and 100% positive. I think this is the best deal I've seen on the L&M's.

[ols]

mtbr.com did a light shoot out and you can see the difference (as much as you can tell in photos anyway) between HID and non-HID lights here:

http://www.mtbr.com/spotlight/lightshootout/

I ended up getting the Jet Lights Phantom (Helmet mounted) system as a result, and it's worked great for nighttime mountain biking for me. It's not an HID system, but I've had plenty of car drivers flash me thinking I was a car with one high beam on.

[froze]

All the different lights on the market can be confusing. You would be wise to have a max price in mind so you can eliminate the higher price units. Cygolite for the money are in my opinion the best value. I have the cheapest ($48) Cygo called the Metro that put out a total of 12.5 watts and I ride on pitch dark country roads with it and never had a problem seeing (but I have accute night vision). If total run time is important, Cygo makes a 16 watt light called the Rover NiMh Xtra with a 6 watt flood and a 10w spot for a total of 16. This light can burn up to 6 hours on low and 2 hrs on both beams; not a bad light for under $100.

[jpw]

I've been using the Lupine Edison 10 system (www.lupine.de- it's German) for the last three winters. It has nominal 10 or 16 watt settings, but don't let that fool you. It's an HID so the actual output is far, far higher. Battery life on the lower setting is eight hours before a recharge is required. The charger is 'smart' so no need to employ the brain at all.

The really great design attribute of this system is the lamp and the way it attaches to the handlebar. It uses a rubber o ring that loops under the bar and hooks on to the lamp housing at the back. This means no brackets, no screws, no fiddling with shims to get a snug fit around the bar diameter. It also means you can adjust the angle of the light beam while riding, either up ahead or down onto the road surface depending on what's approaching in the distance. It's so easy.

The switch is also very nice to operate. Small, unobtrusive, and informative.

It's not cheap, but I value my life.

I introduced my LBS to the lights (they previously had never heard of Lupine and their manager had always raved about Niterider) and after that they started selling them and dropped Niterider altogether. Lupine have a range of lights so there ought to be something for every pocket.

It's never failed me and I have never had any regrets about choosing it.

[NateM]

I have been using the L&M Arc on my commuter for 2 years now. To be honest I think I can safely see far enough ahead at 20 mph which is what I based my purchase on.I have one twisty descent where I routinely hit 35mph but I know every inch of that road and check it on my way up in the morning.

[Ozz]

Can you use a Niterider battery with a Light & Motion system?

Or, a Li-ion battery with a light that came with a Nickel Metal Hydride battery?

Thanks for your help!