Help with removing splined FSA crank

[weisan]

Okay, I got into trouble again...but it's the "good" kind of trouble :D

I am on to my winter project #3: To overhaul my Legend Ti

The bike was stripped down to the bare bones except the drive-side crank and the BB. As I turned the crank center bolt, the crank bolt cap or the retaining ring keeps following the bolt out. For those who are familiar with the Octalink splined system, the cap or the ring is supposed to stay in place and let the bolt backs out against it pulling the arm from the spindle. Well, the one I have keeps uncorking and follows the bolt out and it's not doing what it's supposed to do. I have tightened it down real tight but that's not doing the trick for me. Any suggestions? Please don't tell me to use the sledgehammer...because I already did! :D
http://alicehui.com/serotta/repair/crank_cap.jpg

Thanks again for supporting the other half of my cycling pleasure: working on bikes. :p

weisan

[Dave]

Self extractig crank bolts don't have to be used. Screw both parts out and use a real crank puller. You'll need the proper type for an octalink BB or at the minimum, a flat piece of metal of the proper diameter, to bear against the end of the spindle when using a puller for the square taper style.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/CCP_4.shtml

Many ISIS BBs come with a small metal "plug" that inserts into the end of the ISIS spindle and allows it to be removed with a square taper puller.

[Blastinbob]

"Any suggestions? Please don't tell me to use the sledgehammer...because I already did! "

Advice from a friend, when you put it back together use Campy and you won't have this problem. :D :p

[Jeff N.]

Right. As Dave said:

1. Remove aluminum ring.
2. Remove crank bolt.
3. Get a splined BB crank puller.
4. Pull the crank.

It's best to never rely on self-extracting crank bolts. :no: I've seen those rings just strip right out under the pressure. Jeff N.

[Bradford]

I'll put in another vote for using a crank puller. I pull mine off my tandem whenever I travel, and I bring a crank puller with me. I've used both the self extracting cranks and the tool and strongly prefere the tool. But you do need to have the right one, the old square taper ones don't fit.

[Orin]

BTW, although this is an Octalink, it is worth noting that for ISIS splined BBs, FSA specifically say NOT to use self extracting bolts.

I agree that a proper crank extracter should be used.

Orin.

[Too Tall]

Next time keep the bolt head/cap interfaced greased and that won't happen. Bean there done that. Ouch.

[weisan]

Thanks guys, your excellent advice once again saved the day. At first, I didn't think my crank puller would work because it's meant for a square-tapered axle but you resounding support got me back to trying it again with a little bit of improvisation using a long bolt straddle across the hallow end of the BB and hit up against the crank bolt on the other side. Of course, nothing works as well as some serious elbow grease.

Uncle Bob, you are a friend indeed in the truest sense. As I applied lethal force to the crank puller, I keep repeating to myself..."I love BOB, I HATE campy, I love BOB, I HATE campy, I love BOB, I HATE campy....AND IT WORKED!!! The thing came right off not more than five repetitions after I finished yelling "HATE CAMPY!", which to me sounds like a good omen. :D

Now, Uncle Bob, let's get on to the next **phase** of our project, shall we?
You know that beautiful Legend of yours which you put through hell and fire before it came out transformed as a Christmas Butterfly, which I like a lot. I think we need another round of testing before we can safely patent the technique for commercial use. And I have just the RIGHT testing subject for your edification. TaDa! Here it is....unveiling Legend of the Month for the Total MakeOver Episode #2.

http://alicehui.com/serotta/winterproj2004/legend2.jpg

What ya think, Uncle BOB? Is it any good? :D :p
Please don't be mistaken by its apparent "good looks". At closeup, the frame has a whole bunch of battle wounds and swashbuckling encounters.

weisan

[victoryfactory]

I had a similar problem trying to remove the drive side FSA compact
carbon crank from my Atlanta...

I threaded in the crank removing tool, and when I turned it, the tool
popped right out , stripping the threads!
There may be a few undamaged threads at the bottom of the hole, but
I can't seem to get the tool started straight enough over the bad threads
to get back in there.

Welp, at this point, I've got to leave the crank on.

Any suggestion?

VF, expert know-it-all bike mechanic

[Richard]

There are special tools made to cut oversized threads for use with a special puller. Talk to a shop.

Another option that I've seen work is to use JB Weld to fill the area, then cut new threads in the original size and pitch.

[Jeff N.]

I had a similar problem trying to remove the drive side FSA compact
carbon crank from my Atlanta...

I threaded in the crank removing tool, and when I turned it, the tool
popped right out , stripping the threads!
There may be a few undamaged threads at the bottom of the hole, but
I can't seem to get the tool started straight enough over the bad threads
to get back in there.

Welp, at this point, I've got to leave the crank on.

Any suggestion?

VF, expert know-it-all bike mechanicOhmygosh! Whadda nightmare! I thought that kinda stuff only happened to me! Jeff N.

[weisan]

I knew I'm not the only one. ;)

VF, don't fret, give it another round. I shared the same problem too. The trick is to "reverse-threading" initially until you find that sweet spot where the bolt is perpendicular to the thread. At that point, use one hand to press it and apply pressure inwards while using the other hand or a wrench to thread it in. You would find some resistance at one point, just keep going. I know there's the fear of shredding the threads or doing further damage...my thinking is (IMHO): I have absolutely nothing to lose at this point!!! Hee...heee... :D


weisan

[Blastinbob]

Thanks guys, your excellent advice once again saved the day. At first, I didn't think my crank puller would work because it's meant for a square-tapered axle but you resounding support got me back to trying it again with a little bit of improvisation using a long bolt straddle across the hallow end of the BB and hit up against the crank bolt on the other side. Of course, nothing works as well as some serious elbow grease.

Uncle Bob, you are a friend indeed in the truest sense. As I applied lethal force to the crank puller, I keep repeating to myself..."I love BOB, I HATE campy, I love BOB, I HATE campy, I love BOB, I HATE campy....AND IT WORKED!!! The thing came right off not more than five repetitions after I finished yelling "HATE CAMPY!", which to me sounds like a good omen. :D

Now, Uncle Bob, let's get on to the next **phase** of our project, shall we?
You know that beautiful Legend of yours which you put through hell and fire before it came out transformed as a Christmas Butterfly, which I like a lot. I think we need another round of testing before we can safely patent the technique for commercial use. And I have just the RIGHT testing subject for your edification. TaDa! Here it is....unveiling Legend of the Month for the Total MakeOver Episode #2.

http://alicehui.com/serotta/winterproj2004/legend2.jpg

What ya think, Uncle BOB? Is it any good? :D :p
Please don't be mistaken by its apparent "good looks". At closeup, the frame has a whole bunch of battle wounds and swashbuckling encounters.

weisan

Now Weisan, you are forgiven for your sinful thoughts.

Bring that ruby slipper with you next time you come out, I have the stuff if you have the time. :)

[DfCas]

to use a square taper puller on an Octalink.I got one at my LBS for 4-5 dollars.Its a little plug that gives the puller a base to push against.

I've not had much luck with self extracters either.I think they cause more problems than they solve.

Dan Cas

[weisan]

Now Weisan, you are forgiven for your sinful thoughts.

Bring that ruby slipper with you next time you come out, I have the stuff if you have the time. :)

Thanks Uncle Bob, you have a BIG heart. The problem is I won't be going over to Calif anytime soon. I wish I am so that I can visit with you and Tom but it's not in the cards right now. That may change, who knows. Anyway, I am not in a hurry so the next time I am up there, I will certainly take up your offer and learn some tricks from you. For now, I will probably put the bike back together again and ride it. I do care about aesthetics, probably more than I should. But when it comes to the Legend, it's always function over style. To me, it has the highest utility value as far as I am concerned compared to all the bikes I have ever owned. I am willing to sacrifice some of the aesthetics.

Dan Cas, thanks for your reminder. I knew about the adaptor too but at 1 a.m. in the morning, I don't really have that option. :p Besides, the improvised rod seems to work just fine. It's become a permanent fixture in my tool box now.
;)

[Bradford]

VF,

I’ve stripped the threads on two cranks over the years :crap: , both square taper. (I’ve taken off my splined cranks many many times and no problems at all, which is why I love them).

Both times I took the bike to Wheelworks, who said no problem, they have ways of getting them off. Both times they came through no problem. So if you have a good shop, this is a good time to use the LBS.

No more square tapers for me, I’m either too incompetent, too stupid, or to sloppy.

[victoryfactory]

thanks for the advice guys..

VF, now where did I leave that 16 lb sledge hammer?