Some track/fixed/ss questions

[Clydesdale]

I took the plunge and ebayed a frame but as I consider the build I have a couple questions and would like to get some opinions. Haven't owned anything with one speed since the bmx days, so I'm a rookie.

The frame has track dropouts but is drilled for brakes and has rear cable mounts so I can run front and back brakes which seems like a good idea? I won't be on a track, just something for slower group rides and general riding.

1) Are flip/flop hubs a decent way to go or should I commit to either fixed or ss?

2) Do you generally shorten up your crank length when going to one gear? If so, how much? I ride 175's now.

3) Is a 46-14 a decent all around choice?

Anything else I should know? Thanks in advance.

Clydesdale.

[regularguy412]

OK. I'll weigh in.

It depends -- depends on what you are really trying to do. I've owned a couple of different fixed gear bikes. The first one was a converted road frame. I used a welded-up freewheel and was lucky enough to have a chainstay length that allowed for approximately a 70 inch gear. The 48/14 you mentioned, works out to about a 90 inch gear -- pretty tall if you are doing any climbing to speak of. Shortening the cranks will improve your ability to spin, as will lowering your saddle height slightly. However with shorter cranks, you'll notice a little less leverage trying to turn that big gear. Another reason to shorten cranks is to help prevent smacking a pedal down in a turn. A bike designed to work with fixed gears usually has a higher bottom bracket, so you can still run a similar length crank. On the track, the turns are elevated, so bottom bracket height is not as much of an issue.

With fixed, everything is a trade-off. I personally always preferred to ride the same length cranks at my same saddle height as I had on my freehubbed bikes. My thought was to try and train my legs and muscle memory. The extra spin rate (with my normal length cranks) helped with aerobics. I built my Delancey with IRO flip flop, high flange hubs -- though I've never used the freewheel side. I run a 42 front ring with a 16 rear cog. At a cadence of approx 100, I am at about 20 mph- which is plenty fast enough for spin training.

http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html

Here's a neat calculator that will help with determining gearing, speed , cadence and gain ratio.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Jawn P]

Flip flop hubs are great. Even if you don't want to go fixed/free, you can run two different fixed cogs for a variety of gearing options.

Depending on your location, 46-14 is far too stiff of gearing. I'm in a relatively flat area, and I run 42-17 because I feel that it'll help me with my pedal stroke and not blowing apart at high cadences.

[gone]

As others have said, your gearing is pretty tall unless it's dead flat where you are (or you're super strong!). In general, somewhere in the range of 70-75 gear inches works pretty well as all around gearing. Also, I find I like to choose my gearing based more on how fast I'll have to spin going down hill rather than for climbing. I would say 46x17 (73 GI) would be more reasonable gearing.

I normally use 175mm cranks but have 170 on my fixed gear, mostly to avoid pedal strike as I have some 90 degree curves that I take at speed in the routes I do frequently.

I have a flip flop hub on my fixed gear and for a long time ran one side fixed, the other single and one cog bigger with the idea that if I was far from home and got tired I could flip it. I ran it like that for three years and never flipped it so I took the single off.

As to a rear brake, although most of your braking is done with the front (and your legs) if the bike is drilled for it, why not?

[Louis]

3) Is a 46-14 a decent all around choice?

My solution to this issue:

Take a geared bike to the area where you are most likely to ride the fixed or ss bike and put it in one gear and leave it there. Ride around for thirty minutes. It that works for the flats, the ups and the downs you're set. If it doesn't choose another gear and try that. Find the right compromise and you're done for now. Choose a front chainring that makes is easiest to get the ratio you need with commonly used cogs in back.

[rustychisel]

My solution to this issue:

Take a geared bike to the area where you are most likely to ride the fixed or ss bike and put it in one gear and leave it there. Ride around for thirty minutes. It that works for the flats, the ups and the downs you're set. If it doesn't choose another gear and try that. Find the right compromise and you're done for now. Choose a front chainring that makes is easiest to get the ratio you need with commonly used cogs in back.

Bingo! We have a winner. Choose the gear which works for you and where you live. 40x15 or 42x16 is about 70in and most commonly used.
You could go 'down' to 172.5mm cranks, perhaps, but it's more about having reasonable clearance and avoiding undue pedal-strike than rate of spin etc for a road going fixed gear bike. Incidentally, for fixed gear on the road you want a gear which you'll still be able to ride home 25 miles into a stiff headwind rather than one which makes you feel heroic when you wheel out the gate...

Brakes? Front only for aesthetics, but that's me.
Flip flop? If it's the same price or easily sourced. Most people realise after 6 months they've never flipped the wheel over... (unless they're 300 miler randonneurs, in which case they're tougher than you or me and possibly not exactly sane either).

[RudAwkning]

I took the plunge and ebayed a frame but as I consider the build I have a couple questions and would like to get some opinions. Haven't owned anything with one speed since the bmx days, so I'm a rookie.

The frame has track dropouts but is drilled for brakes and has rear cable mounts so I can run front and back brakes which seems like a good idea? I won't be on a track, just something for slower group rides and general riding.

1) Are flip/flop hubs a decent way to go or should I commit to either fixed or ss?

2) Do you generally shorten up your crank length when going to one gear? If so, how much? I ride 175's now.

3) Is a 46-14 a decent all around choice?

Anything else I should know? Thanks in advance.

Clydesdale.

What's the bb drop of the frame?

[markie]

1) Are flip/flop hubs a decent way to go or should I commit to either fixed or ss?

2) Do you generally shorten up your crank length when going to one gear? If so, how much? I ride 175's now.

3) Is a 46-14 a decent all around choice?

Anything else I should know? Thanks in advance.

Clydesdale.[/QUOTE]

1. They are an OK way to go, but SS is boring on the road, so you should just commit and then you can get a double fixed hub....

2. I run whatever I find. I cannot tell the difference between 175's and 170's. I favour 170's due to decreased chance of pedal strikes.

3. No. 46/14 = 3.28. Conventional wisdom would suggest a ratio between 2.5 and 3.0 :1. for instance 42/17=2.47:1 for the road.

You will have a lot of fun. Using a smaller gear makes it a lot easier to leg brake, but make sure to run a front brake.

[JohnHemlock]

Lots of good advice in this thread. I have two bikes with flip-flop hubs, one set up SS and one fixed at 42:17. I have never flipped or flopped either of them. I ride around Denver which is tragically flat, use the SS for commuting and Burley hauling and the fixed bike for other rides. Front brakes only on the fixie, front and rear on the SS.

Never paid any attention to crank length.

[Clydesdale]

That helps a lot. I'm thinking I'll shorten the cranks to 170 or 172.5 and make it a fixed, which was the original plan. Also I might play it safe with both brakes to start with, but I'll decide that later. Based on the above I think I won't worry about a flip flop, unless it just happens to come on wheels I like.

Thanks for all the help.

Oh yeah, the BB drop is listed as 8cm.

[scottcw2]

I'll throw in my experience here...

I bought a lugged road frame with drop-outs that are perfect for a fixed gear. I went with a fixed/fixed rear wheel with a 16/18 cog. My chain ring is a 42. I ride 172.5 cranks on my road bike and went with 170 on the fixed. I mounted a front brake only.

[maximus]

Go flip flop, get a freewheel and a fixed cog.

I did... I rode it for a year fixed and flipped it just last week for a friend who "wanted to ride a bike for the first time in years." I haven't changed it back yet because I have been having fun coasting around. I will switch back soon - but it is cool to have options.

If you're bottom bracket is low - it couldn't hurt to switch crank arms though it seems sorta a big investment for 5mm or so... Unless you are really hammering it around turns - I wouldn't sweat it.

Riding fixed is a blast and is great training - enjoy yourself!

[RudAwkning]

That helps a lot. I'm thinking I'll shorten the cranks to 170 or 172.5 and make it a fixed, which was the original plan. Also I might play it safe with both brakes to start with, but I'll decide that later. Based on the above I think I won't worry about a flip flop, unless it just happens to come on wheels I like.

Thanks for all the help.

Oh yeah, the BB drop is listed as 8cm.

Wow. That's really low. Even with a 170 crankarm.

Most track bb drops are around 6cm-6.5cm. Some, like my Gan Well, run as high as 5cm.

8cm is a loaded touring bb drop. Be super careful on those corners!!!

[Clydesdale]

Wow. That's really low. Even with a 170 crankarm.

Most track bb drops are around 6cm-6.5cm. Some, like my Gan Well, run as high as 5cm.

8cm is a loaded touring bb drop. Be super careful on those corners!!!


It's kind of a strange frame since it has cables and rear brake mount. It also has cable guide holes in the BB which seems very odd? Maybe I'll send the serial # to the company and see if I can get full specs. It was listed in the ebay auction as 8cm drop.

[scottcw2]

My fixed has an 8cm BB drop. No issues with 170 cranks. You have to remember that you will be pedaling through corners and not lean over as far as you would on a geared road bike.

[Oirad]

I took the plunge and ebayed a frame but as I consider the build I have a couple questions and would like to get some opinions. Haven't owned anything with one speed since the bmx days, so I'm a rookie.

The frame has track dropouts but is drilled for brakes and has rear cable mounts so I can run front and back brakes which seems like a good idea? I won't be on a track, just something for slower group rides and general riding.

1) Are flip/flop hubs a decent way to go or should I commit to either fixed or ss?

2) Do you generally shorten up your crank length when going to one gear? If so, how much? I ride 175's now.

3) Is a 46-14 a decent all around choice?

Anything else I should know? Thanks in advance.

Clydesdale.

1) I don't run flip/flop and I suspect that the flip or the flop (whichever is the freewheel) can come in handy when you are cold, hungry, and far, far away from home with a very long and steep downhill, etc...

2) I'd run the same cranks as your road bike, unless there is the issue of pedal strike. It's probably not a bad idea to learn to spin in the crank size that you use when you get back on the geared machine.

3) Good words of wisdom from various folks. I'll simplify it even further. When you go for a spin or ride, what is your favorite gear? Mine has always been 42x17, perhaps smallish for some, but it gets me up and over many hills and it is still nimble for quick acceleration. The 66-70 in. gear size is good advice.

4) RudAwkning's recent posts are interesting reading and an example of what you can do on a fixed gear bike. It may not be for everybody and for all of the time, but as a recreational rider I get a lot of mileage and enormous pleasure riding the fixed gear bike on/off road, to the grocery, or for a day ride.

-- Oirad

[regularguy412]

It's kind of a strange frame since it has cables and rear brake mount. It also has cable guide holes in the BB which seems very odd? Maybe I'll send the serial # to the company and see if I can get full specs. It was listed in the ebay auction as 8cm drop.

My Delancey has cable guides on the BB and top tube cable stops for a rear brake -- along with a seat stay bridge for a brake. I do run a front brake on the steel fork. There is, however, no rear der. hanger because of the track forkends back there. The BB drop is 'about' 58 mm, as I recall-- therefore, built with road riding in mind. I would think that a fixed frame with a low BB drop would be built with track riding in mind.

Mike in AR :beer:

[totally_fixxate]

It's kind of a strange frame since it has cables and rear brake mount.
It also has cable guide holes in the BB which seems very odd?
Maybe I'll send the serial # to the company and see if I can get full specs.
It was listed in the ebay auction as 8cm drop.


you bought that Serotta?

http://i16.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/39/0e/9fa2_1.JPG

[dogdriver]

You will have discovered the correct gearing when you're miserable going both UP and DOWN the hill (fixie obsevation).

[Clydesdale]

That's the one. Put the minimum bid in knowing I couldn't win and no one else bid so I had to tell my wife I "accidentally" won a frame :rolleyes:

[RudAwkning]

You will have discovered the correct gearing when you're miserable going both UP and DOWN the hill (fixie obsevation).

lol

[totally_fixxate]

That's the one. Put the minimum bid in knowing I couldn't win and no one else bid so I had to tell my wife I "accidentally" won a frame :rolleyes:


btw- the owner said the specs came right off the build sheet.

I was going to bid on this, until he confirmed the specs.

[Clydesdale]

btw- the owner said the specs came right off the build sheet.

I was going to bid on this, until he confirmed the specs.

Thanks. What didn't you like about it? Other than the drop being a little lower than I would like, the rest seemed pretty good for what I want to do with it. I look forward to seeing how this one rides and handles.

Thanks again to everyone for the advice. Lots of good stuff.

[spiderman]

about an 'accidental purchase'...
i think the price for a cda fixed
is as close to steeling as a guy can get.

build it fixed with a front brake and 170's
--46-16 ... so if you want to race up hill
i have a chance of staying with you!

[totally_fixxate]

Thanks. What didn't you like about it?
Other than the drop being a little lower than I would like, the rest seemed pretty good for what I want to do with it.

The short head tube and steep seat tube geometry.

[scottcw2]

The short head tube and steep seat tube geometry.

Yep, exactly why I didn't bid. A steal for that price, though.

[Clydesdale]

The bikes I have ridden with similar geometry seemed to feel pretty good and with my chimp like torso I generally don't use much HT or spacers. If it doesn't work I'm thinking I could hopefully break even.

No offense but if it works out like I hope - thanks for not bidding :rolleyes:

[totally_fixxate]

post pix, after it is built.