Spread 'Em

[2wheelwill]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I would like to hear from someone who has actually tried to run a 130mm rear hub (ie, a Shimano/Sram 10spd wheel) on an older frame with 126mm spacing.

I've heard you need to "cold set" the frame which I believe means I'm permantly bending the stays apart. Others seem to suggest you can just squeeze the 130 hub onto the 126 frame and it will fit tight but work.

Can someone tell me for certain if the squeeze-it-in technique works. I'm considering purchasing an older Merckx frame and want to run Sram Force components. Is this wishful thinking?

Thanks!

[dekindy]

I had a 1989 Schwinn Paramount that I figured had 126mm spacing but after researching it turned out that it was 128mm. I did not try it but everyone assured me that a 130mm spaced hub would fit. I was also told you can probably make it work in a 126mm. There will probably be someone reply later today that has actual experience.

[sokyroadie]

I have a steel frame that is 126mm and was surprised how easily a 130mm hub fit. It is not really all that tight since there is quite a bit of flex at the dropouts. We are only talking less than .08" per side.

Jeff

[Peter P.]

Only spread a steel frame.

Go to Sheldon Brown's web site for an excellent tutorial on how to do it. Few tools are involved (really just a long lever arm and a ruler) and it's easy.

I spread my Trek with a Tange No. 2 rear end, years ago with no problems.

[TACSTS]

Is it really necessary to spread the stays anyhow? A 130mm hub will fit, you just have to pull the stays apart a bit as you're inserting the hub. Isn't this kind of the same as Surly's "Knot-Right" rear spacing? Their Crosscheck and LHT have 132.5mm spacing so you can run 130 or 135mountain hubs. I know it's a 2.5mm difference versus 4mm, but seems doable.

[thwart]

For a frame of reference, on my computer the word 'has' is 5 mm long.

I have 2 bikes that are 126 spaced; one is very easy to put a 130 hub in, the other less so. On the 2nd you get the sense that the dropouts are no longer parallel at 130 mm and the frame doesn't like it one bit. But it rides just fine, with no axle movement or other funny stuff. So I've never been motivated to cold set it. However, if I made frequent wheel changes, that would not be true.

So, like so many things, it depends...

[Spinz]

No problem as you are only flexing each side of the triangle 2mm. I have not had any issues with running a 130mm wheel in a well made frame with 126mm spacing. Lp

[Bud]

I cold set an early 80's steel Serotta Slicker frame (now owned by banjers51) from 126 to 130. It was relatively easy to do and made wheel changes much easier than just spreading/flexing. Do a search on Google and you'll find all sorts of opinions and details about one vs. the other. For me, it came down to eliminating the continuous stress applied by stretched stays.

If you decide to cold set, be sure to check frame alignment often using the string method. It's easy to do and keeps you from having alignment issues.

[rounder]

I had someone respace my 1992 steeel bike using a dropout alignment tool. Afterward, there was no difference in handling and the dropouts never needed to be realigned.

[palincss]

Is it really necessary to spread the stays anyhow? A 130mm hub will fit, you just have to pull the stays apart a bit as you're inserting the hub. Isn't this kind of the same as Surly's "Knot-Right" rear spacing? Their Crosscheck and LHT have 132.5mm spacing so you can run 130 or 135mountain hubs. I know it's a 2.5mm difference versus 4mm, but seems doable.

I had a Rivendell Rambouillet with 132.5 spacing and had no trouble at all getting a 135mm wheel in there. I almost didn't notice the slight spread while inserting the wheel. I replaced that frame with a Velo Orange Randonneur, which I thought was going to be spaced to 132.5, but which instead was spaced to 130. No way could I get the wheel in. Simply impossible. I had to get the wheel reset to 130 (not hard, it was a Phil hub).

[MIN]

I am using 135mm hubs in 130mm dropouts which is 1mm wider of a change. Works fine without respacing.

[Kines]

For years I've been riding a mid 1990's lugged steel Columbus EL/OS with a 135 hub just stretched in there, with no probs. Also, my eye can not detect any of the off-camber problem with the dropouts that is discussed when this comes up.
KN

[SpeedyChix]

Was going to be running 130 hubs in my 126-spaced Mercian all the time. Had it cold set. Made for a much nicer fit.

As noted above: only do this to steel frames

[2wheelwill]

Thanks for all the great advise. Based on all the replies I'm now the proud new owner of a beautiful 80s Merckx which will soon be outfitted with a brand spankin' new 10spd group. Can't wait to show up to the local training ride and outshine all that carbon!!!

Thanks again.

[fierte_poser]

I cold set an early 80's steel Serotta Slicker frame (now owned by banjers51) from 126 to 130. It was relatively easy to do and made wheel changes much easier than just spreading/flexing. Do a search on Google and you'll find all sorts of opinions and details about one vs. the other. For me, it came down to eliminating the continuous stress applied by stretched stays.

If you decide to cold set, be sure to check frame alignment often using the string method. It's easy to do and keeps you from having alignment issues.

Bud,

Where have you been?

Kent

[jbl]

I run a 130mm Campy Record hub on a 126mm Pinarello rear end. Wheel changes can sometimes be challenging, but nothing that a good tug on the rim doesn't solve.

[Bud]

Bud,

Where have you been?

Kent

Wondered if anyone would notice...Thanks

I'm still around and still riding, but took a hiatus from the forum for a while. Research work has been pretty heavy for the past 10 months or so (still is). I'm lurking a bit now to see how the forum has changed (or not). But I'm back.