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View Full Version : Shifting problems with campag 2009


thinpin
02-26-2009, 01:24 PM
I'm still struggling to get a clean run through the cassette with these new centaur shifters.
Adjusting the tension as per the manual(I've been doing this regularly for several years now with no problems) the derailleur shifts perfectly on the 5 smallest sprockets put becomes distinctly noisy and jumpy on the largest 5. Adjusting the tension to make them run smoothly on these large five means the shifting on the smallest five goes to pot!
Having threaded the cables through the shifter there is no way I can fit the outer housing end cap in the hard plastic slot of the hood. So I popped the housing on anyway and threaded it up the cable flush into the slot without the end cap. Could this have anything to do with the problem?
Thanks again guys.

jimcav
02-26-2009, 01:31 PM
I'm still struggling to get a clean run through the cassette with these new centaur shifters.
Adjusting the tension as per the manual(I've been doing this regularly for several years now with no problems) the derailleur shifts perfectly on the 5 smallest sprockets put becomes distinctly noisy and jumpy on the largest 5. Adjusting the tension to make them run smoothly on these large five means the shifting on the smallest five goes to pot!
Having threaded the cables through the shifter there is no way I can fit the outer housing end cap in the hard plastic slot of the hood. So I popped the housing on anyway and threaded it up the cable flush into the slot without the end cap. Could this have anything to do with the problem?
Thanks again guys.
the housing is thinner on the ultrashift cables (you could try shaving down the housing so it will slide into the shifter body). i recently ordered 2 sets of ultra shift cables form ribble and the idiots sent me the old 10 speed ergopower cables

thinpin
02-26-2009, 02:13 PM
Thanks Jim, but the cables are ultrashift (all from Ribble too). Though the end caps are very loose on them! Maybe the end caps are incorrect. The housing slides in fine the end caps are too big!

Samster
02-26-2009, 02:35 PM
ahhhh, paradigm shifts...

pdxmech13
02-26-2009, 02:37 PM
Are you using an older Centaur rear derailleur ?, I had a similar problem. Trust me it was an all day affair of trouble shooting and I tried several options. Unfortunatly I didn't have another derailleur to try. I called Campagnolo and the gentleman on the phone said that the spring on newer rear derailleurs is much stronger. He offered to install one as long as mine was under the 3 year warranty. In the meantime a 11 speed record showed up and after installing just that it works like perfection.

To tell if your spring is of the older variation look between the parallelogram and if the end of the spring has a round hook bend. This is the older unit. The newer model has a slight straight bend at the end.

Good luck and I hope this is helpful

thinpin
02-26-2009, 02:50 PM
a slight straight bend .


This gave me a giggle being Irish and all. Thanks
There is a definite "hook" like a question mark on the spring end.
Having bought all the stuff new a few months back you would think that it would all be compatible. What I have noticed, though, is that my cassette is Mirage/Veloce instead of centaur. I'm hoping this is the problem and am getting on to Ribble now
Thanks again

soggybiker
02-26-2009, 03:04 PM
Having threaded the cables through the shifter there is no way I can fit the outer housing end cap in the hard plastic slot of the hood. So I popped the housing on anyway and threaded it up the cable flush into the slot without the end cap. Could this have anything to do with the problem?


Having recently installed a set of 2009 Veloce shifters, I'm pretty sure that the manual is incorrect and that you no longer need to install an end cap on the shifter end of the housing. If you examine the slot in the shifter where it buts up against the housing, there's now a metal disc permanently installed on the shifter which should perform the same task as the end cap. There was an earlier post on this forum that came to the same conclusion.

There's been several observations that threading the cable through the shifter without involving a giant loop of slack is a difficult task. Doing it the easy way, with a giant loop of slack, unfortunately pretty much guarantees putting a bend/crimp in the cable. Could this have been the problem?

fierte_poser
02-26-2009, 03:08 PM
Are you using an older Centaur rear derailleur ?, I had a similar problem. Trust me it was an all day affair of trouble shooting and I tried several options. Unfortunatly I didn't have another derailleur to try. I called Campagnolo and the gentleman on the phone said that the spring on newer rear derailleurs is much stronger. He offered to install one as long as mine was under the 3 year warranty. In the meantime a 11 speed record showed up and after installing just that it works like perfection.

To tell if your spring is of the older variation look between the parallelogram and if the end of the spring has a round hook bend. This is the older unit. The newer model has a slight straight bend at the end.

Good luck and I hope this is helpful

So the new shifters require a much stronger spring to unwind the cable out of the shifter when going to smaller cogs?

I guess I saying I don't understand what the spring strength has to do with bad shifting on new vs old levers.

Marcusaurelius
02-26-2009, 03:12 PM
I did have a similiar problem once with the 9 speed veloce cassette. There was a slight difference detween the size of the spacers between to the cogs because the final cog was curved and needed the slightly thinner spacer. I did spent a long time fiddling before I noticed the slightly odd shaped last cog.

thinpin
02-26-2009, 03:18 PM
Having recently installed a set of 2009 Veloce shifters, I'm pretty sure that the manual is incorrect and that you no longer need to install an end cap on the shifter end of the housing. If you examine the slot in the shifter where it buts up against the housing, there's now a metal disc permanently installed on the shifter which should perform the same task as the end cap. There was an earlier post on this forum that came to the same conclusion.

There's been several observations that threading the cable through the shifter without involving a giant loop of slack is a difficult task. Doing it the easy way, with a giant loop of slack, unfortunately pretty much guarantees putting a bend/crimp in the cable. Could this have been the problem?

I had come to the conclusion that it was OK to use the cable without the end too and I had noted the metal "washer".
I had trouble findind the insert for the cable as it was nowhere near the spot marked in the manual. I kinked both cables threading them but did it in such a way that the kink was about 1.5cm from the tip and ended up being lost in the trimming. So the cable is good. Im trying to fing the spacing/compatibility between Mirage and centaur drivetrains as something tells me they no longer are.
Thanks all

Dave
02-26-2009, 05:01 PM
The new low friction ultrashift cables are a MUST. New cables are supposed to come with all new shifters and it you got the old 10 speed cables, you were cheated.

The new shifters use no ferrules at the ergo body and they are a smaller 4.1mm diameter. The old cables won't even fit without the ferrule.

Even with the wrong cables, shifts to larger cogs should be OK but the shifts to smaller cogs may hesitate due to excess friction. I tried to use Jagwire 4mm cable housing but it just didn't work well.

thinpin
02-28-2009, 02:48 AM
:crap: :crap: :crap:
A light of day inspection revealed that the braze-on on the chainstay that accepts the last cable sleeve from the frame into the rear mech was not meant to take the"stepdown casing cap"! A regular casing cap was fitted and bingo all's well.
Thanks for all the help folks

fierte_poser
02-28-2009, 09:03 AM
The new low friction ultrashift cables are a MUST. New cables are supposed to come with all new shifters and it you got the old 10 speed cables, you were cheated.

The new shifters use no ferrules at the ergo body and they are a smaller 4.1mm diameter. The old cables won't even fit without the ferrule.

Even with the wrong cables, shifts to larger cogs should be OK but the shifts to smaller cogs may hesitate due to excess friction. I tried to use Jagwire 4mm cable housing but it just didn't work well.

Dave,

I believe that the new Ultra-Low Friction housings are a must for the shifter cables.

The derailleur cables themselves have not changed AFAIK.

Correct?

Kent

Dave
02-28-2009, 10:42 AM
Dave,

I believe that the new Ultra-Low Friction housings are a must for the shifter cables.

The derailleur cables themselves have not changed AFAIK.

Correct?

Kent

Yes. The cables are no different, but you can't get the housing separately and if a cable is used enough to wear it out, new housings are in order. I don't know why Campy doesn't sell a shift cable set separately. I've never worn out a brake cable and the brake housings probably last several times longer, so I rarely need brake cables.

To be even more precise, only the right side really needs the low friction housing. To get more use from a complete cable set, I've used the low friction Campy cable housing only on the right side. That gives me a spare housing for the bars, but no extra loop at the RD.

I can't tell you what other brand of 4mm housing might be the best, but I had problems with Jagwire. I was forced to try it when I got shipped an old 10 speed cableset with one pair of new shifters. I've got some Shimano housing on the left side of my bikes, but haven't tried it for any of the right side housing.

pdxmech13
02-28-2009, 12:30 PM
Dave,
The shimano SPF*41 would be the most comparable that I can think of.

fierte_poser
02-28-2009, 01:09 PM
The good news is that if you ruin a der cable during install, you can still go to your lbs a get a replacement for $7. Ask me how I know!

ps just upgraded my 2006 centaur drivetrain with 2009 centaur levers/housing/cables and it shifts perfect on the stand with minimal adjustments. no road test yet.