Building a Single-speed

[CaptStash]

Ok here goes. I have a McMahon Racing Cycles titanium framea with a full Dura Ace 7400 8 speed build. It is a third bike and doesn't get ridden (it was the bike I used on the ship when I was going to sea). I am thinking about converting it to a single speed.

So here are my questions:

1. Should I sell the 8 speed stuff or horde it for later use?
2. Should I keep the wheels (Open CD-4 with Dura Ace hubs) or sell them? I understand I can use the rear wheel and use spacers to properly position the rear cog.
3. If I don't do the above, flip-flop or just a freewheeel? (I'm not quite ballsy enough to go straight to a track hub.)
4. Wait a minute -- do I have to worry about rear hub spacing?
5. Brake levers? Any suggestions?
6. Am I out of my mind? Should I just sell the bike and start over?
7. Cranks. I have no clue what to do here. Please help. I am an idiot. (At least I feel like one since I have no clue about what to do here.)
8. Anybody pissed off that I am posting the exact same question across the hall?

CaptStash....

[Bruce K]

1. Horde it for now. You can always sell it later.
2. Why not? It makes the project cheaper.
3. Stick with #2 and a chain tensioner for now. Again, cheaper.
4. Maybe. See 2 & 3.
5. Shimano or Cane Creek. I find the Shimano a little more comfortable but the CC's are WAY cheaper.
6. Nope. Have fun with it.
7. Use the cranks that are on it. Get a chain ring with the number of teeth you want. You can set the chain line with spacers at the rear.
8. Why would we be PO'd? It's about getting the info.

BTW, did I suggest you can do this pretty cheaply to see if you even like the concept?

Good luck,

BK

[markie]

SS is boring on the road. Fixed is much more fun.

What rear dropouts do you have?

Something horizontal or semi-horizontal will allow you to tension your chain without a derailleur or tensioner. This is a big improvement for a SS and essential for fixed.

The other option is a white industires eccentric hub or finding a "magic gear.

[Lifelover]

1. horde it for later use?

2. Keep and horde for use with 8 speed Kit

3. Flip/flop I'm not ballsy enough either but I love having the option.

4. Get a ENO made to the correct spacing. If money is an issue than consider selling kit/wheels to fund

5. Brake levers? Get what works and you can afford.

6. Am I out of my mind? I might not like a SS if it was hilly where I live. If it is any where near flat where you live or if you excel at climbing, you are going to LOVE going single. It really does free you mind from the bike.

7. Cranks. Keep what you got. If needed you can even bolt the ring to the opposite side of the spider to help alignment.

8. The way it has been going over there, your thread will most likely be locked. I don't think anyone cares over here.


Have fun.

[RFC]

I just posted this on the C&V forum:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=507013

I have 3 singlespeeds: 1) The Team Fuji in the link; 2) A 2007 Schwinn Madison; and 3) A 1995 off brand Ti road bike converted to SS.

The Madison has a flip flop hub with a freewheel. The other two are built from a Uniglide hub and a Hyperglide hub converted with the Performance kits.

I cannot tell any difference between the two methods. And there are some advantages to the Performance method including lower cost and easy change of cogs.

If you have vertical dropouts, as opposed to horizonatal, the trick is to get just the right gear and chain combination so you don't have to use a tensioner. Fortunately, with SS, you have some flexibility regarding chain tension and a SS should have some slack in the chain.

Here are my SS bikes:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0070a.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0017r.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/SchwinnMadison5.jpg

[duke]

Hey Stash, check out this link to Sheldon Brown. A lot of good info on ss and fixed setups here. http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
duke

[WadePatton]

SS is boring on the road. Fixed is much more fun.
...
I wanna SS this one--looks quite un-boring and way more than I'd do fixed.

http://www.cyclenorthgeorgia.com/images/stories/maps__profiles/six%20gap%20elevation.png

http://www.cyclenorthgeorgia.com/images/stories/maps__profiles/six%20gap%20elevation.png

[Kervin]

1. Should I sell the 8 speed stuff or horde it for later use?

If your other bikes are 8 speed, I'd keep it. If not, sell the levers, cassette, rd and fd.

2. Should I keep the wheels (Open CD-4 with Dura Ace hubs) or sell them? I understand I can use the rear wheel and use spacers to properly position the rear cog.

Like others said, I'd get a ENO hub. I build my own wheels so I'd use the CD rim with a new hub. When I sell off stuff, hubs alone seem to have more value than used wheels.

3. If I don't do the above, flip-flop or just a freewheeel? (I'm not quite ballsy enough to go straight to a track hub.)

I'd go with a fixed gear. I would try to have the rear wheel attached with allen bolts or a QR. I didn't think about that with mine and I could use a smaller seat bag if I didn't have to carry a wrench. For me, a SS looks great, but it not any different than riding my regular bike in one gear. I understand your caution, just start out on short rides until you get in the groove.

4. Wait a minute -- do I have to worry about rear hub spacing?

Yes, get a hub to match the frame.

5. Brake levers? Any suggestions?

The hoods are important to me. I wanted something like on my regular bike. I had Ergo lever for a while and I have cane creek ones now. I don't know what would feel like your STI levers.

6. Am I out of my mind? Should I just sell the bike and start over?

That always is the problem of a "project" bike! For the amount extra it would cost to start from scratch, you could get the ENO wheel built, get a selection of cogs and chain rings and have dollars left over.

7. Cranks. I have no clue what to do here. Please help. I am an idiot. (At least I feel like one since I have no clue about what to do here.)

Use what you have.

[flickwet]

This thread has got to lure that ol' pole cat uota hidin' com on bro where are ya? say sumthin

[CaliFly]

I think I've found an answer to my Concours dilemma. :cool:

:beer:

[RFC]

To beat the dead horse (we should have a smilie for that), I want to emphasize that the Performance type spacer system is certainly the way to go to try SS and is great in the long run. The only reason to get an Eno hub would be if you can't get the chain tension you want. However, with a little experimentation and possibly a half link, you will be just fine, and do not have to go to the expense of a dedicated wheel or hub.

[RFC]

I think I've found an answer to my Concours dilemma. :cool:

:beer:
SS and Ti is a wonderful marriage -- light and tough. My Ti SS Batcycle with 53x18 gearing, above, weighs all of about 15 lbs. BTW, the leather bar tape is actually the steering wheel cover from my 1988 Landcruiser (RIP).

[William]

Sell your 8 speed stuff to me. :)

The Surly singulator works great if you need to go that route. If you have a little more $$$ to drop an Eno is certainly another option.

RFC, a 60 or 62?



William

[RFC]

Sell your 8 speed stuff to me. :)

The Surly singulator works great if you need to go that route. If you have a little more $$$ to drop an Eno is certainly another option.

RFC, a 60 or 62?



William

Size? The Fuji and the Madison are both about 57, but with short top tubes. The Ti is a 54 and very quick

[William]

Size? The Fuji and the Madison are both about 57, but with short top tubes. The Ti is a 54 and very quick


Actually I was referring to your Landcruiser. :)




William

[RFC]

Actually I was referring to your Landcruiser. :)



William

Oh, sorry, it was the full sized 1988.

[WadePatton]

To beat the dead horse (we should have a smilie for that),...
http://www.cycleforums.com/forums/images/smilies/beatdeadhorse.gif

[markie]

I wanna SS this one--looks quite un-boring and way more than I'd do fixed.

http://www.cyclenorthgeorgia.com/images/stories/maps__profiles/six%20gap%20elevation.png

http://www.cyclenorthgeorgia.com/images/stories/maps__profiles/six%20gap%20elevation.png


Nah, I'd still do it fixed. Actually it looks pretty nasty it might take a year or two to build up to doing it fixed.

I have done a few challenge rides fixed and near the 100 mile mark it always starts to unravel for me. 200k of the Dairyland Dare a couple of years ago was one of my most painful cycling experiences. Still at the end of the Horribly Hilly Hundreds some girl offered to have my children because I was such a stud for riding the course fixed. :p

[RFC]

What bike and gearing are you using on these long fixed rides?

[RudAwkning]

Nah, I'd still do it fixed. Actually it looks pretty nasty it might take a year or two to build up to doing it fixed.

I have done a few challenge rides fixed and near the 100 mile mark it always starts to unravel for me. 200k of the Dairyland Dare a couple of years ago was one of my most painful cycling experiences. Still at the end of the Horribly Hilly Hundreds some girl offered to have my children because I was such a stud for riding the course fixed. :p

Looks like there's a 10 mile 3000' climb at the 55 mile mark. That's where my legs would start throwing up :D

My goal this year is to get my Cal Triple Crown on my fixed gear. Needless to say, I'm cherry picking my doubles. Solvang Spring, Grand Tour and Death Valley Fall are the current candidates. I'd do the Hemet instead of the Grand Tour but it falls on the same day as the Devil Mountain Double.

What gearing are you running?

[markie]

I had been running a pretty tall gear.... 39x14. It is super flat in IL and I need the big gear to have a chance of hanging with road rides. Besides it is fun to keep-up on the challenge rides going downhill, too.

Next time I do a challenge ride I'll try 39x17. The challenge rides were in Wisconsin which is not flat and have a bunch of short steep hills, which makes it hard to get any rhythm going. Back when I was in DC i did some long fixed hilly road rides running 42x17. I tend to try and not get to obsessed about gear choice either way it'll be the wrong gear almost all the time.

That long climb looks tough. I'd be weaving across the road when it was safe to get a rest now and then/all the time. : )

FWIW, I ride fixed all the time now, even nearly all my MTB'ing. It just seems odd not to.

[CaptStash]

Hey Stash, check out this link to Sheldon Brown. A lot of good info on ss and fixed setups here. http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
duke

Thanks for the link Duke. Very helpful.

And thanks everyone else who gave their opinions. Here's where I'm at then:

The plan of attack for now will be keep it simple and unload the shifters and derailleurs. They should more than pay for some Cane Creek brake levers, and the spacers for the rear hub. I'll keep the DA crank and BB as is and install a single chainring on it.

If I like it, I may try my hand at building a new rear wheel with a fixed gear hub. Sound like a good excuse to learn to build wheels right?

CaptStash....

[Lifelover]

Thanks for the link Duke. Very helpful.

And thanks everyone else who gave their opinions. Here's where I'm at then:

The plan of attack for now will be keep it simple and unload the shifters and derailleurs. They should more than pay for some Cane Creek brake levers, and the spacers for the rear hub. I'll keep the DA crank and BB as is and install a single chainring on it.

If I like it, I may try my hand at building a new rear wheel with a fixed gear hub. Sound like a good excuse to learn to build wheels right?

CaptStash....

How do you plan on getting chain tension?

[CaptStash]

I'm gonna' fiddle with it and try to get lucky. If that doesn't work, I imagine a chain tensioner will be in order.

CaptStash....

[William]

I'm gonna' fiddle with it and try to get lucky. If that doesn't work, I imagine a chain tensioner will be in order.

CaptStash....


http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=46543&page=2&pp=15



William

[djg]

I posted in the other place . . . dang.

[Lifelover]

I'm gonna' fiddle with it and try to get lucky. If that doesn't work, I imagine a chain tensioner will be in order.

CaptStash....


If you have too, tensioners work fine. I have a cheap one on my street MTB SS and it's makes some noise but I've grown to accept it as part of the characterisic of that bike.


You may know already, but it's worth repeating. If you decide to go fixed, you CAN NOT use a tensioner. It won't take any "back load".

I think you will love the SS thing.

[97CSI]

Finally, after a couple of years of cogitating, am making the leap to SS with one of my framesets. Plan/hope to use a set of heavy-duty standard Campy wheels. Who offers spacers to allow for a single cog on a Campy freehub?
Thanks.

[roguedog]

THanks for bringing this thread back. I too am attempting to build SS and have many of the same questions.

I'm trying to build mine cheap cuz not sure I'll like it and cuz in theory I intend to use it for commuting on the train where people just throw their bikes on top of yours. :bike:

The latter is another reason for going gearless. I think last year using my geared bike for commuting messed up my rear der and I kept having to adjust it.

[97CSI]

Another question - are the chainrings, cog and chain normally different on a single-speed/fixie? I'm getting the impression that they are.

[roguedog]

Am probably putting bullhorn bars on (nitto rb18s) and am trying to decide on reverse brakes or top mount brakes.

Just wondering what brake levers you guys chose for yours and why? Or just wondering why one would choose one versus the other.

Also taking recommendations for whichever brand and model lever you like.

Thanks.

[97CSI]

As I'm using Campy parts (wheels, brakes and crankset) so am using a set of Campy Cobalto levers that allows for aero (hiden cables) mounting of the cables under the orange leather bar-tape I just received from Ahneida Ride in today's post. Great looking tape and is sooooooooo soft. But I'm using a set of standard road bars.
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=54126&page=1&pp=15&highlight=bar+tape. Believe he also has a newer thread that lists his new website. But, I couldn't find quickly.

[Bruce K]

Ray's website would be www.handlebra.com

BK

[TimD]

I've been running 53x20, which @ 69 inches is a bit lower than your 39x14. The 53 terrifies people. :)

I started out with a freehub & a Soulcraft Convert, which is a really nice design - for a tensioner. If you're serious about this I'd suggest an ENO hub, which is a zillion times better. If you go for a flip-flop hub (including the ENO), I'd further suggest you not skimp on the freewheel. Asian MTB/BMX freewheels are cheap at $20, but you definitely get what you pay for - lots of lateral and axial runout, noise, and, in the presence of moisture, corrosion. The White Industries freewheel costs four times as much but is worth it, IMO, by the "Only Cry Once" theory.

There are chain length calculators available online. For example, http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chain_length_calculator.html.
Given a chainstay length and a gear set you can determine the number of lengths in the chain. Fooling around with the gear set will help you get to an integral number of links, or an integral number of half links. A "half link chain" or a single "half link" which will allow you to terminate the chain on a 0.5" boundary. Harris sells them, as do other online retailers.

Have fun!