Threadless stem question

[sokyroadie]

I just finished building my Keith Lippy frameset (pics in gallery) and I can't get the Cinelli XE 26.0 stem tight enough to where the bars (Cinelli Giro D'Italia 26.0) won't rotate under pressure. Do I need to remove the rubber "washer" between the slot as shown below.

I messed the title up - I am so used to threadless stems now, I meant to say threaded.

Thanks,
Jeff

[Louis]

Do I need to remove the rubber "washer" between the slot as shown below.

I believe the answer to this is no. That plastic part is intended to be used. Perhaps the bar OD or the stem ID are not what you think they are? How much torque are you applying to the bolt? I would think that the faces of each side of the "slot" should not displace sufficiently relative to each other for them to no longer appear to be approximately parallel.

Good Luck

Louis

[sokyroadie]

They are both 26.0 mm, it is as tight as I can get it with a regular allen wrench. It just barely slips when you are on the hoods or drops. I may try a "cheater" on the wrench.

Jeff

[michael white]

don't overtorque, but do check the bolt threads, make sure it's greased. Those clamps are not the strongest. In fact, they are probably the weakest. But you should be able to get it to work. don't remove the plastic thing; it serves an important cosmetic function of some sort. . .

[Gothard]

They are both 26.0 mm, it is as tight as I can get it with a regular allen wrench. It just barely slips when you are on the hoods or drops. I may try a "cheater" on the wrench.

Jeff

Don't. You'll compromise something. You can damage the threads in the stem rendering it junk. Or break the bolt.
Something's out of spec here. Either the stem's oversize, or the bar's undersize.
You'd better solve this with measurements rather than force it one way or another. A new stem or bar are WAY cheaper than a full front denture...

[Louis]

an important cosmetic function

Is that like "jumbo shrimp" or "military intelligence" ??? ;)

[rePhil]

Digital calipers are cheap. Measure 'em up and let us know what you find.

[shiftyfixedgear]

Put two or three 1 mm washers under the head of the bolt.

There might be a possibility that the bolt is "bottoming out" and that is what is making it feel "tight" - even though it isn't clamping the bars any tighter.

Nice thing about this experiment is that it is cheap and easy. Like a good date !

Ps - 9mm front axle washers might work well.

[michael white]

fwiw:
I use the same stem on a bike. If you look closely at it, mine looks odd because the lines of the slot in the clamp aren't parallel at all. No one has ever noticed except me. Also, I lost the important cosmetic piece years ago, so I don't know what role that would play. That said, the stem works fine. Like I said, it's not a stiff stem at all, nor do I think the aero design makes any sense at all from any point of view, regardless how far-fetched. It makes much less than no sense. It's pretty though.

[Peter P.]

That's a Cinelli 1/R stem; I never heard of a Cinelli XE.

I don't know how old that stem is, but I believe all 1/R stems were made to fit 26.4mm Cinelli bars. Cinelli was the odd ball out in those years; everybody else had 26.0mm bars/stems.

It's possible your bars are a later vintage Cinelli with a 26.0mm clamp section.

So, the problem could be you're trying to clamp a 26.0mm bar in a 26.4mm stem.

[michael white]

Peter, the XE is a newer model with the 1R style clamp. Mine has a wedge. I believe the 1A or Nitto Pearl style clamp is stronger.

[mike p]

That is not a 1/R. It's an XE or XA. They came in 26.0 and 26.4 You may want to make sure you've got the right one. The 1/R had a hidden clamp and was one of the sexiest cinelli's ever made. The 1A was probably there best overall model.

Mike



That's a Cinelli 1/R stem; I never heard of a Cinelli XE.

I don't know how old that stem is, but I believe all 1/R stems were made to fit 26.4mm Cinelli bars. Cinelli was the odd ball out in those years; everybody else had 26.0mm bars/stems.

It's possible your bars are a later vintage Cinelli with a 26.0mm clamp section.

So, the problem could be you're trying to clamp a 26.0mm bar in a 26.4mm stem.

[sokyroadie]

There might be a possibility that the bolt is "bottoming out" and that is what is making it feel "tight" - even though it isn't clamping the bars any tighter.



The winner is shiftyfixedgear - I cut a 1/16 of an inch off the bolt length and it clamps fine.

Thanks for all the replies.

Happy Holidays

Jeff

[saab2000]

That is a Cinelli X/A stem. The best quill stem from Cinelli is the 1/A. It is also possible you have a 26.4 stem and a 26.0 bar. Be careful.

Don't let that thing rotate more. You may put cuts/stress risers in the bar.

Like I said, the best Cinelli quill stem is the old fashioned 1/A. There are tons on eBay. not exotic or as fancy looking, but more solid and a better clamp design.

I once broke an X/A and do not really trust them. They also don't feel as solid in my hands.

[Smiley]

The winner is shiftyfixedgear - I cut a 1/16 of an inch off the bolt length and it clamps fine.

Thanks for all the replies.

Happy Holidays

Jeff
Why did you not just add another spacer ?

[sokyroadie]

Why did you not just add another spacer ?

I work for a machine shop so it was easier to just cut the bolt - there is still plenty of thread engagement.

Jeff

[Smiley]

Nice and cleaner job then, whenever someone cuts threads you always worry about the start of the thread, u know what your doing. Great job.

[martinrjensen]

[QUOTE= don't remove the plastic thing; it serves an important cosmetic function of some sort. . .[/QUOTE]
yes, it keeps dirt out of the gap

[steve-d]

Well, my take is the stem is a 'recent' offering by Cinelli and was intended to clamp onto carbon bars. All other Cinelli stems to include the previous offering X/A had clamp area ribs to grip onto the aluminum bar. Aluminum, when gripped by a device, acts as a lubricant at the interface. It can be slippery.

I'd say the bars weren't made for metal, but for the carbon offerings of the day with 26.0 or 26.4 clamp areas. Such bars were popular before the oversize clamp area carbon bars appeared.

If you were to clamp a carbon bar with a stem having a ribbed clamp area, you'll fracture the outer protective epoxy like covering and eventually the carbon fiber will fracture as well. Not a good outcome.

If you continue to tighten the clamp of the X/E against your aluminum bars you'll run the risk of: (a) stripping the stem bolt threads or the stem threads; (b) cracking the stem clamp area or (c) simply finding the bars will slip at the worst possible time. I'd say you've already gone beyond the proper tightening of the clamp as the rubber insert was being crushed and hindering your tightening efforts.

Soooo, if you want to risk loosing your teeth, fracturing your cheek, tearing your rotator cuff, and wrecking your bike, continue to use it. I recommend using an X/A with the ribs and get the worry behind.

Here's some pics of the different types of X/E and X/A stems without and with ribs:


The X/A is still available on Ebay in new condition.

Best
Steve