Fixed gear fit

[Aspen]

For training purposes, do you set up a fixed gear bike with the same reach, drop, etc. as your road frame? Seems like I've seen it mentioned that many set the fixed up with a slightly shorter reach and drop but I'm not sure I want the fixed to be any different than my road/racing bike. Thanks.

[regularguy412]

I've always tried to set up my fixies with same crank length, very similar saddle height,, reach, drop ,etc. I have found that lowering the saddle height a few mils (say 1/2 a CM or so) is helpful -- especially if you are just beginning on a fix. Additionally, it is sometimes helpful to have the ability to raise the bars a bit -- again, when just learning to ride it. One ends up being IN the saddle a lot with a fix, and since there's no coasting, an uncomfortable position makes riding it not much fun. I'd say set it up a bit conservatively,, that is -- slightly shorter reach, slightly higher bars-to-saddle height, and a slightly lower saddle -- then ride it for half an hour and make some adjustments.

If you're running shorter cranks than on your regular bike, you can raise the saddle a bit. Just remember that the drop to the bars will be greater. On my original fix, I converted one of my old road frames, so I knew that the fit would be correct. My latest fix frame is built for a single/fix. I ordered it new and purposely cut the steerer tube long for adjustment purposes. It also has a higher bottom bracket height compared to most 'road' frames, therefore, everything is higher relative to the ground.

If you have a new frame that is fix-specific, the geometry may be slightly different than your road. That's why you have to do some measuring and tweaking to get comfortable .

Mike in AR :beer:

[bagochips3]

I go for a shorter crank length (165 vs 172.5 in my case). Gives better clearance both for toe overlap and with the ground in corners (remember, on fixed you can't really choose where your pedals are when turning). It's also easier for spinning downhill. I set up the seat ever so slightly lower as well. Other than that, I set it up as close as I can to my regular road bike.

[bironi]

I'd go for the shorter cranks, for me 165's for cornering, and easier spin up and down. I would not use your geared road set up to determine your best fit on the fixed. Fit is even more important on the fixed. Set it up in the general neighborhood of the road bike. Ride it, and make the small adjustments until you are right where you want to be. It takes some time, but is well worth the fuss. :beer:

[Dekonick]

I've always tried to set up my fixies with same crank length, very similar saddle height,, reach, drop ,etc. I have found that lowering the saddle height a few mils (say 1/2 a CM or so) is helpful -- especially if you are just beginning on a fix. Additionally, it is sometimes helpful to have the ability to raise the bars a bit -- again, when just learning to ride it. One ends up being IN the saddle a lot with a fix, and since there's no coasting, an uncomfortable position makes riding it not much fun. I'd say set it up a bit conservatively,, that is -- slightly shorter reach, slightly higher bars-to-saddle height, and a slightly lower saddle -- then ride it for half an hour and make some adjustments.

If you're running shorter cranks than on your regular bike, you can raise the saddle a bit. Just remember that the drop to the bars will be greater. On my original fix, I converted one of my old road frames, so I knew that the fit would be correct. My latest fix frame is built for a single/fix. I ordered it new and purposely cut the steerer tube long for adjustment purposes. It also has a higher bottom bracket height compared to most 'road' frames, therefore, everything is higher relative to the ground.

If you have a new frame that is fix-specific, the geometry may be slightly different than your road. That's why you have to do some measuring and tweaking to get comfortable .

Mike in AR :beer:

Dave Kirk made a post on velocipedesalon awhile back re- fit. It made perfect sense to me - now. Synopsis - lift your hands off the bar while going straight - if you dont lift up, or fall forward, you have a pretty good setup. I suggest a visit across the hall to read the tips there.

One thing I have found is I was actually riding with not long enough stems... even though I have an old neck injury. He also states most of us ride with our saddle's too far forward. wierd huh?


Thanks DK! - and Jerk too.

[regularguy412]

Dave Kirk made a post on velocipedesalon awhile back re- fit. It made perfect sense to me - now. Synopsis - lift your hands off the bar while going straight - if you dont lift up, or fall forward, you have a pretty good setup. I suggest a visit across the hall to read the tips there.

One thing I have found is I was actually riding with not long enough stems... even though I have an old neck injury. He also states most of us ride with our saddle's too far forward. wierd huh?


Thanks DK! - and Jerk too.

I agree. In fact, I've found that I prefer to have a more 'back' position with my saddle -- making my knee fall a couple of centimeters behind KOPS. This fit includes how I sit on my fix as well as on my Serottas.

Mike in AR