Week 2 Europe ride report [Archive]

Karin Kirk

09-30-2008, 09:03 AM

Y�all were so generous after my last ride report, so I will continue the tales from Europe. Although nothing can come close to the high drama of doing the passes, I�ve still had some great times on the bike in this last week.

After the three passes I was tired and it was time for a change of scenery. We moved on to Gstaad, which is one of my Mom�s favorite locales. Nothing like the luxury of a posh resort town to revive a tired bike rider!

Here is the autumnal parade of cows down from their alpine pastures back to the valleys. Oh, the fabulous cheese they make!

Karin Kirk

09-30-2008, 09:05 AM

After a day off the bike I felt a strong urge to get back out there, so we arranged a day where I would travel by bike and Mom would go by train and we would connect periodically. The ride started with a stiff climb up the valley which had me instantly clinging to my 34x26. But the road was sweet, the scenery was green and peaceful, and the cows did not appear to be in a hurry, so I just made my way up the hill in a mellow mood. At the next town, there was a huge downhill that went on and on and on. It was much more downhill than I had just earned in my warmup climb. Whee! Then I reached the next valley and rode up the valley toward the cute town of Lenk.

This is the road winding up from Gstaad. About the width of a driveway, but few cars and the occasional tractor. Second picture is partway up the valley in the town of St. Stephan.

Karin Kirk

09-30-2008, 09:08 AM

I had a generous tailwind pushing me all the way up the valley, so between the long downhill and the tailwind, I nearly beat my Mom�s train. We found each other and enjoyed lunch in bustling Lenk. After that we explored the town and the valley together. Like just about everywhere I�ve been in the Alps, it was idyllic, scenic and had a good feeling about it.

Then I cheated and took the train ride back to Gstaad with Mom. Remember that long downhill I enjoyed on the way out? Well I decided not to ride back up it. ;)

Photos - meeting Mom at the train station in Lenk; and the quick ride back into Gstaad with dramatic lighting.

Karin Kirk

09-30-2008, 09:10 AM

The next day we said goodbye to the Alps and took the train and ferry back to the Bodensee in Northern Germany. It was sad to leave the mountains behind.

However the riding there was pretty great too. The landscape consists of a large glacial lake surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards, orchards and an amazing network of bike paths and quiet roads to enjoy. The weather was generous too, with sunshine every day.

Photos: I took this first picture for Pete and the other fans of red. In some vineyards they have big nets over the grapes and I wonder if they thought that Pete might come over and steal some?

Other photos: riding the train back from the alps, with hooks for bikes on nearly all the trains; typical road and village in the Bodensee area.

Karin Kirk

09-30-2008, 09:12 AM

On my last day I had a fittingly fun ride to celebrate the end of my trip. I rode up to a town called Heligenberg, which sits on top of a prominent escarpment. It�s got the stiffest climb around, so Mom figured I would like it. So the folks took the bus up there and I rode, and I joined them at the top for lunch. The climb up was great, with nice, broad switchbacks and a steady grade for 20 minutes or so. The best past was that once I got up to the top, we dined on a huge lunch of my favorite German food, kasespaetzle. Of course I still had to ride home, but I knew it was all downhill, so eating a lot would actually work in my favor, right?

After lunch I took the long way home, enjoying the misty fall afternoon, taking lots of pictures and getting a gradual downhill ride most of the way. I saw a fair number of other serious cyclists out enjoying the fine day too.

After that it was time to wash the bike and put it away for winter. When I left Germany the next morning, we were already making plans for the next trip in the springtime.

It has been a fabulous trip. However a big problem was that I really missed Dave! In case you were wondering, he was certainly invited to come along, but this type of travel is not his cup of tea. So it is wonderful to be home with my sweetie!

Photos: descent (thank goodness) after lunch; view from the ride home; storks roost on rooftops

gomez308

09-30-2008, 09:43 AM

Wonderful report. I lived in Germany for 3 years and really miss it.

In a totally non pervy way. Those cows sure are pretty.

MarleyMon

09-30-2008, 09:53 AM

How wonderful! - "the ride back into Gstaad with dramatic lighting" is a great shot.

I'm struck by how bike-friendly the trains are. Here in Indy the buses have bike carriers on the front; they seem to get a lot of use. OTOH the South Shore RR, an interstate interurban electric train running between Chicago and So. Bend, IN has a policy that all bikes must be packed or bagged to the size of a large suitcase. There is just not space to accomodate bikes.

Thanks for the fine report!

link

09-30-2008, 10:02 AM

Nice pictures and fun story ...your bike matches the grapes.

thinpin

09-30-2008, 04:35 PM

Great report Karen. Did you work to make sure no cars were in shots or was that how it really was?
Can I share a little story of Swiss festivals?
Several years ago some friends and I, on a mountaineering trip to Switzerland, ended up in a camp site in a town whose name escapes me. It was Swiss national day and preparations were in full swing for what looked like a big night of celebration.
They main square/park had a bonfire built ready to go.
After our evening meal we got ready to join in the fun and went to the now packed square. The Mayor made what appeared to be a lovely speech. The bonfire was lit. Everbody clapped and a few clanged some cowbells. We were just getting in the mood to start the fun and I could smell the beer when the local fire-service came and doused the fire.
Everybody clapped and went home!
Odd lot

shinomaster

09-30-2008, 06:59 PM

Great times Karin! What a lovely place to ride, and a lovely report too. I'm hoping to go to France with my dad next spring. :beer:

Onno

09-30-2008, 08:01 PM

Dave doesn't like biking on beautiful mountain roads? What gives?

Karin, I'm taking a break from grading essays as I drool over your pictures of some of the most beautiful roads in the world. Now I'm not sure if I can get back to the grading--I want to fly to Europe with my bike!

rwsaunders

09-30-2008, 08:57 PM

Another classic post, Karin....that looks like quite a memorable trip.

That first photo reminded me of a sorority that made their daily appearance at the cafeteria when I was in school. :cool:

Karin Kirk

10-01-2008, 08:26 AM

Great report Karen. Did you work to make sure no cars were in shots or was that how it really was?

On the quiet one-lane roads such as those in the shots, that's how it really was. Those roads were nirvana. However I think you'd have to live there to learn how to connect all the winding small roads into a bigger ride. So I used the primary roadways too, which were busier than I'm used to. But in Germany there was nearly always a bike path that paralleled the main road, so you had your choice. Traffic was mostly very courteous, but sometimes not. I'm used to really quiet roads out here, so at times I got more than my fill of traffic.

I can easily imagine the Swiss festival you described. They seem a well-behaved lot. The Zurich airport has this museum-like hush to it and people are incredibly quiet and organized. Kind of nice, in that context.

Karin Kirk

10-01-2008, 08:55 AM

Another classic post, Karin....that looks like quite a memorable trip.

That first photo reminded me of a sorority that made their daily appearance at the cafeteria when I was in school. :cool:

Those sorority gals would be lucky to reach the level of reverence that the Swiss cows have achieved! ;)

Thanks again for the nice feedback. For any of you who dream of doing a trip like this, go for it! It's an iconic cycling experience and a pile of fun. I had been dreaming of climbing the alps for over a year as I figured out how to make it work. I am so glad I did. It sure helps that we have fellow forumites who can help make this happen. :)

saab2000

10-01-2008, 09:04 AM

I am so jealous!!

I was there about a month ago and rode around on my bro-in-law's MTB. But next year I have to bring a road bike.

I may need to get another S&S bike.....

stackie

10-01-2008, 08:56 PM

saab2000

10-01-2008, 09:20 PM

Beautiful trip. It sounds extremely memorable and enjoyable.

I just have to ask... Were all of the roads in as perfect condition as the ones pictured. I don't think I've seen a road so smooth in the last 10 years here in the USA.

Jon

Roads in Switzerland and Germany (most of Europe actually) are generally in much better condition than roads in the US.

CPP

10-02-2008, 01:40 AM

Swiss roads are incredibly well maintained. From late spring into late autumn, that's what Swiss people do....fix roads. No Swiss tax payer should ever doubt where their taxes go. They go into.. fixing roads, mostly the Highways but also normal roads. This means of course super road surfaces for cyclists but also huge traffic jams and of an average speed on the Swiss autoroutes of, say, 45 mph! So, stick to the bike and avoid the highways....unless, you have the patience of a Swiss.

Karin Kirk

10-02-2008, 10:18 AM

CPP

10-02-2008, 10:30 AM

George?

TAW

10-02-2008, 10:37 AM

Swiss roads are incredibly well maintained. From late spring into late autumn, that's what Swiss people do....fix roads.

Sadly, here in Kansas City, Missouri, that's all they do as well, fix roads. Somehow, they never seem to really get fixed and mostly cause traffic delays. ;)

Anyway, Karin--thanks for the great pics and taking time out to post. They were all really excellent. Hope you are having a great time.

Gothard

10-02-2008, 11:24 AM

CFF stands for Chemins de Fer F�d�raux. Federal railways. It is a state affair.

And yes, I gladly pay taxes here, after seeing what 50% of all I made went to in other countries I lived in (nothing).

saab2000

10-02-2008, 12:18 PM

I have a question for you Swiss guys. In addition to the sweet roads, what about those railroads? The massive investment in the railways and their tunnels is impressive. Is this a huge part of the national budget? Train tickets are not cheap, but I assume the rail system is heavily subsidized? Is it just a myth that the Swiss are deeply proud of their railway system, or is that really the case?

For me, the most fun on the railroad is when the trains in the mountains pause briefly to hook into the cogs. Then you know you are heading somewhere exciting!

I am not really Swiss, but close enough after having spent all those years there. When there I take the trains all the time. They are frequently punctual enough to set your watch by. Literally. They are efficient, safe, clean, dependable. And yes, expensive. But Switzerland is also a country where you can live without a car without the huge penalty of inconvenience.

I can't speak for other countries too much, but have taken the trains in Germany and Austria. They are similar in their efficiency.

Trains in Europe are legit and accepted as a way of life.

CPP

10-02-2008, 04:18 PM

As for the cost of a train ticket.... you can buy a "1/2 price card", that is valid for 1 year (or more). It costs 250 some swiss francs. With this card, all train tickets, in Switzerland, are half price.

If you travel a lot by train, this is oustanding.

What's incredible is that, when you go to buy your ticket, at the counter, you say "demi tarif" and you pay 1/2 the price of the regular ticket on the spot! They only actually control if you have the "demi tarif" card when you are on the train. That, is the beauty of Switzerland!!!

girlie

10-02-2008, 04:29 PM

Great images and you are always smiling.
Cool trip.
girlie

fiamme red

10-02-2008, 04:31 PM

Wonderful photos! :beer:

Karin Kirk

10-02-2008, 06:51 PM

As for the cost of a train ticket.... you can buy a "1/2 price card", that is valid for 1 year (or more). It costs 250 some swiss francs. With this card, all train tickets, in Switzerland, are half price.

Yes, I finally got the 1/2 price card this year, thanks to some key advice from George. It paid for itself already on just this one trip.

Saab, I totally agree about the great experience of riding the trains and their impeccable punctuality. The whole system is impressive.

I also dig the cool clock face of the SBB
http://www.swissworld.org/typo3temp/pics/b367bfb7d2.jpg

Dekonick

10-02-2008, 08:32 PM

The trains in Europe are wonderful. I miss mass transit that WORKS. I also like the concept of buying a yearly highway pass to drive on the highway. Let the highway users pay for the upkeep - I'll stick to the secondary roads :)

Looks like it was a fantastic trip.

jeffg

10-02-2008, 11:41 PM

and you need to hook up with the roads of the Black Forest around Freiburg! Telekom's HQ was in Badenweiler at the base of the Hochblauen, but the Halde at the top of the Schauinsland/Hofsgrund with the Hegar family is the place to stay ...

I can send you some route cards and we might even be there. If I can get my 80+ year old mother-in-law to Germany, Switzerland, France, Italy, you can get Dave out!

The roads around Freiburg are among the best in the world, and yes, those around Gstaad are great as well (in college my girlfriend's parents had a place in Les Diablerets).

Get yourself into the Maratona dles Dolomites and we will hook you up at the Turm in Voels or the Sassongher in Corvara for the ride ... I know people

Draw is later this month ....