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View Full Version : Carbon Forks..Can a higher end fork make a Difference


mso
08-17-2008, 01:07 PM
Can an amatuer "serious" roadie really note a difference and see improvement in ride quality between a lower end vs. higher end ( more expensive) carbon fork?

If so where would one benefit from the most improvement? Descending, Asending, Flats etc.

At what point (cost) does it become not cost prohibitive to upgrade? By that I mean we're talking about a amatuer rider that does fast group rides, long training rides, some centuries and lots of long climbs. A lightweight climber physique. Someone who loves to ride and does occasional RR. No Crits!

konstantkarma
08-17-2008, 01:43 PM
Actually, really nice, top carbon forks can be had for reasonable $. This is especially true if you compare a road fork to the cost of a mountain bike suspension fork. You should be able to get a highly regarded pro level carbon fiber road fork for around $250. These are fairly reasonably priced components compared to others. The biggest difference between lower and higher priced CF forks is likely the use of an aluminum versus carbon steerer. This will translate into less weight for the full carbon fork, which should be noticeable to the average rider.

Marcusaurelius
08-17-2008, 01:50 PM
Well I actually prefer a steel steer tube for a carbon fork. One of my favourite forks is the Serotta F1. I know it will weigh more than carbon or an alloy steer tube but it just felt better for me. Also a steel steer tube does not have limits on spacer height.

I believe the Alpha Q is around $200.

Peter P.
08-17-2008, 02:47 PM
If your current fork gives you a disconcerted feeling under certain conditions such as hard braking or leaning over at high speeds, then the peace of mind you get with a new, high quality fork would be worth the price.

Otherwise, most any carbon fork is fine. Witness the proliferation of house brand forks on Specialized, Trek, etal, bikes. They lack an aftermarket brand name but they work just fine. The weight savings with carbon steerers vs. aluminum is not worth having an extra, forsaken fork in your parts collection. It's like having $200 sitting in a box, useless to spend.

Marcusaurelius gets it: his comfort level with carbon forks is sufficient as long as he has a steel steerer, therefore he has one on his bike and fewer worries in his mind. You can't put a price on that.

vqdriver
08-17-2008, 09:00 PM
i'm a heavier rider and i can feel the difference when i'm in the downhill twisties. didn't think i would but i can.

bigbill
08-17-2008, 09:10 PM
The only difference I ever noticed was when I cracked the stock Mizuno on my Fina and replaced it with an Easton SL. The Easton flexed more in the corners and when braking than the Mizuno. The Easton looked cooler, but I should have bought another Mizuno.

rustychisel
08-18-2008, 02:22 AM
you say 'bigbill' but you bought an Easton SL. Might that have something to do with it.

Cool topic, I've been thinking and reaaanging my thoughts along these very lines, having just changed forks on my road bike.

Same bike, same wheels, tyres etc, same geometry, both forks 43mm rake. Replaced an Easton EC50 (alloy steerer, broader fork blades somewhat like a straight TT fork) with a Time Millenium Stiff fork (carbon steerer, more conventional sweep to blades).

Against my real expectations, the difference is real and it's noticeable. It's just hard to quantify or describe. I've done two rides on the new forks; the first was a 75km rain ride around Strathalbyn (lots of wind, wet roads the whole way), and yesterday did 65km of windy riding to Outer Harbor.

The Time forks feel as direct and easy to ride with, but - I'm struggling here - I believe I'm going to employ the word 'buttery'. Smoother feeling on rough pavement and chip seal roads, slightly more movement in the front end than I had with the Easton. It all means less jarring directly up through the steerer and into the bars and I suspect I feel a bit less shaken at the end of a longish ride. Bars and stem are Deda Newton OS in both instances, which are definitely stiff.

It hasn't turned my ride into a 'magic carpet' or anything; I'm just a little surprised I can feel the difference.

MSO, not sure about answering your original question because I won't buy into the 'cheaper' vs 'more expensive' fork option. I daresay there are good cheap forks and 'bad' expensive forks, but I reckon there are forks which are right for your and your bike's geometry, just as there are those which are patently wrong.

In the event, I'd suggest it also comes down to your intended usage and riding style, etc etc. As to cost benefits and reduced effect, dunno.

531Aussie
08-18-2008, 11:04 PM
in my opision, for the most part, all you're really getting from an expensive, superlight, full-carbon fork is less weight, often at the cost of a worse (too flexy) ride. I've got rid of just about all my full-carbon forks and gone back to cheaper stuff with alu steerers. I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions, but, generally, light full-carbon forks flex more than cheaper forks with alu steerers. A lot of flex comes from the crown, and, even though many people don't realize it, the steerers flex inside the head-tube!


By the way, I'm about 190lbs, and spend too much time off the saddle, so....:p

Possibly with the exception of my Columbus Carve, all the full-carbon forks I've owned or tried were too flexy for what I like (two Columbus Muscles, Two Mizunos, a Look HSC, Cannondale Slice, a cheap Hasa, Kinesis, and a few I've forgotten).

I've heard a bit about flexy Easton forks. Even my EC70 (with an alu steerer) which came with my 2006 BMC Streetfire was kinda flexy.

In other words, save your money, unless you really want a 300g fork :)

Charles M
08-19-2008, 09:50 AM
Lots of generalization...


"Different forks can give different rides...

Trying to cubby hole it as all expensive forks are light and or the only fork "upgrade" is to get a lighter fork misses the point...


For some folks a stiffer fork will be better. As a fork flexes it can both twist out of line AND also change your bikes Geometry as the fork blades effectively move the wheel backward and raise the front of the bike at the same time...

Not all light forks flex too much and not all flexy forks flex the same way. some will stay fairly well in line and resist twist but allow for some flex forward and back.

The flex of your frame will also play a part together with the fork...

And some guys prefer a flexy fork for the added comfort and are smooth enough that they feel the trade is good... Others might want something super stiff and feel like that's the way to go.



A little different stack height can be an issue, but not always an issue because headsets can also be swapped to either increase or decrease stack height...


And of course all of the changes are relative to the fork you're getting rid of... A low end, fairly heavy, flexy legged but metal steer tube fork can be upgraded pretty simply and the replacement can be both better tracking and more comfortable depending on the replacements rake/trail, stack height and stiffness.

is secondary to all of this and not an indicator that what you're getting is "better" strictly speaking. But forks are an under rated source of handling and comfort and there are absolutely "better and worse"

znfdl
08-19-2008, 09:52 AM
When I switched from a Real Design fork to a Reynolds UL fork on my Spectrum Ti, I noticed a huge difference. The UL was stiffer, tracked better and dampened more of the road vibrations, even though it was about 3-4 ounces lighter.

Ken Robb
08-19-2008, 01:15 PM
I swapped an Ouzo Pro (all carbon) for an Ouzo Comp (aluminum steerer) both 1" in order to safely use more spacers on the same bike and I could not tell any difference in ride nor could I detect the difference in weight riding or holding the bike. Both rode well.

I had a Profile Design AC-1 all-carbon 1" on my Waterford RS11 and it rode fine too.

F1 on CSI rode well but I could feel the weight of the steel steerer.

O2 on Legend was fine.

AlphaQ cross fork on Hampsten is perfect.

Never had a bad steel fork.

Icon carbon fork on LeMond Zurich was scary/flexy on fast descents.


I would bet that either aluminum or carbon steerer from a maker like Reynolds would be fine and I doubt that you could feel a difference between the two materials in the steerer.

Fixed
08-19-2008, 02:45 PM
you got a great bike get a great fork
imho
cheers :beer:

rePhil
08-19-2008, 03:18 PM
The original poster did not mention a brand, what "great bike" are you referring to?
What is your opinion of a great fork?

you got a great bike get a great fork
imho
cheers :beer:

Fixed
08-19-2008, 05:34 PM
example serotta fork
cheers

rePhil
08-19-2008, 06:35 PM
Didn't you break a "S" carbon fork? Along with a few others?

example serotta fork
cheers

Fixed
08-19-2008, 07:03 PM
yes i broke an old f-i and two cheap carbon forks

but the new high end forks are a lot better imho
cheers

bigbill
08-19-2008, 07:15 PM
you say 'bigbill' but you bought an Easton SL. Might that have something to do with it.


SL is the bigbill fork. SLX is the lighter fork.

The internet is a great thing to prevent confusion when posting.

rustychisel
08-19-2008, 08:00 PM
Gotcha. The confusion was mine. :beer: