SRAM ins and outs?

[Spicoli]

For those who have made the leap, are there any things one shouold look out for with the stuff (Red/Rival)? Be it wear issues or install problems ect..

I've heard most still run Shimano chains and cassettes, is that the way to go? :beer:

[EDS]

For those who have made the leap, are there any things one shouold look out for with the stuff (Red/Rival)? Be it wear issues or install problems ect..

I've heard most still run Shimano chains and cassettes, is that the way to go? :beer:

I have run all SRAM - including chain and cassette - since January 2007. The only issue is getting the front deraillear alignment right.

[Michael Maddox]

I have run all SRAM - including chain and cassette - since January 2007. The only issue is getting the front deraillear alignment right.

I completely concur. The front derailleur trim is essentially backwards from the Shimano. You can trim it, but it's on the small ring, not the big ring.

Oh, and be sure to check the extractor-nut-thing on the non-drive crankarm. (What is that called, anyway?) Mine tended to back out until I tightened it. You can use the head of a large bolt to do it, but you don't want to crank down on the soft aluminum.

[benb]

Front Deraiuller just should not be an issue.. it's easy to adjust.

I just did it again a couple weeks ago to switch cranks for a hillclimb, I will have to switch it back next week. Each time I've done it it's been very easy to reposition and readjust the deraiuller.

I like the shimano cassettes better. I just don't feel like the "Open Glide" design is as smooth shifting or as quiet as Shimano's design.

SRAMs high end chains are retardly expensive as well ($70-80 for a PC-1090R vs. $40-50 for DA?) and you can't reuse the power links with the 10 speed chains, you need to use a chain breaker to get them apart. Which basically to me means... no reason to use SRAM chains.. as you can always find the 105/Ultegra/DA joining pins in any bike shop but the SRAM powerlinks are a little harder to find, and even Performance charges $5 each for them.

Brakes pads are annoying to change.. the holding screw is not in the same place as on shimano brakes. I have to take my front brake caliper off the bike to change the pads. Not the end of the world, but a pretty stupid design decision. (Otherwise the brakes are great)

The other issue with brakes is SRAM doesn't even seem to sell replacement pads.. not that it matters as their pads aren't very good and they are compatible with many other companies pads, but it's a bit silly not to sell replacements at all.

[Michael Maddox]

Sure, you can re-use the power links. Just bend the chain in your hands, then squeeze the links with a pair of pliers. Pops right apart, no problem. In fact, Park makes this tool:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=5&item=MLP-1

[John H.]

1.) Chains wear out quickly (then again, so do dura-ace chains)
2.) Cogsets are noisy- I preferred Shimano cassette and chain on my SRAM gear.
3.) Need to make sure shifters are super tight on bars. Use carbon paste- tighten them on super tight. I have seen multiple SRAM slides- Shifter slides down bar during race and pulls the brake cable
4.) Shifters are far from idiot proof- make a lazy shift- bike will shift the wrong direction.
5.) If you use the reach adjuster- knuckle can get caught under shifting mechanism when you are cranking out of the saddle- results in idiot shift too.

It is my opinion that 2009 Dura-Ace will make people forget about making the leap. It has everthing that SRAM has, but it works like Dura-Ace.

[Spicoli]

Thnx, seems like I am avoiding most of the complaints already. I am only going with the shifters and derails. I have other tried and true parts everywhere else. I basically got bored with shimano and want something different. campy would have been too hard with wheels and all.

Another thing I heard which I think was touched on already is if the levers move on the bars, either the shifting or braking becomes all messed up? Sounds like brakes, is that it?

[jmc22]

I made the leap from DA to Red and love the Red, I have been running the Red shifters, cassette, front & rear deraillears and the 1090R chain.. (I use the FSA cranks & Zero-gravity brakes).
The only issue I have had so far was with the front deraillear clamp, it kept slipping during the ride...come to find out that I got one of their first ones made and they sent me a new (later version) one free of charge...no problems with the new clamp.
I think the shifting is better on the Red, not to mention the weight difference.
For me, I was always be a DA fan since before STI's were interduced but after making the leap, I am more than happy with the Red.

[zap]

My TT rig is now setup with Sram Red (no more zap, sniff) rear derailleur, 1090r chain, cassette and cool carbon bar end shifters.

Everything works well but lube the chain right away with your favorite chain lube. The factory coating is worthless and lasts for 50 or so miles.

I only have 200 or so miles on the kit, so chain durability remains to be seen. If Sram chain durability is poor, I know Campy Ultra 10 chain works well with Sram cassette's and is quite durable.

[benb]

Sure, you can re-use the power links. Just bend the chain in your hands, then squeeze the links with a pair of pliers. Pops right apart, no problem. In fact, Park makes this tool:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=5&item=MLP-1

You may be able to remove the link with that tool... but SRAM has warnings in the instructions that you are NEVER to do that with the 10 speed chains, it's a safety hazard and they believe the chain will fail if you reconnect with the same link.

I don't know if you're thinking 9-speed. With SRAM 9-speed I can remove the master link in seconds without needing any tools.

I tried to remove the 10-speed and it seems totally impossible without a dedicated tool. I tried a bunch of tools (pliers, putting bars through the links and squeezing, etc.. ) and nothing seemed to make it budge.

The 10-speed master link is quite different from the 9-speed one.

Here is the breakdown with bargain prices..

SRAM 9-speed - $0 to split/join chain
SRAM 10-speed - $4 every time you split/join the chain
Shimano 9-speed - $1 every time you split/join the chain
Shimano 10-speed - $2 every time you split/join the chain

This is only been really annoying me recently because I've had to shorten my chain twice to change gearing. I won't be lengthening it again, but it would have been nice to not spend $8-10 (after shipping) just to be able to shorten the chain and then put it back together.

When I have to go back to my standard cranks next week a Shimano chain is going on.

[Michael Maddox]

You may be able to remove the link with that tool... but SRAM has warnings in the instructions that you are NEVER to do that with the 10 speed chains, it's a safety hazard and they believe the chain will fail if you reconnect with the same link.

I think this simply a manufacturer's liability warning.

Consider the stresses on the master link and the associated risk of failure with its removal. Now, compare it to the risks associated with the removal of an old-style chain with a chain tool. It seems to me that more chain failures are likely to occur through misuse of a chain tool--partially pressed pins, bent plates, etc.--than through use of a master link, and I'd argue this is part of the reason the master link exists. The comparative simplicity of master link usage makes it inherently safer for all experience levels.

I think proper use of a master link is a matter of competency. Since there might be some wear on the master link's detents with multiple removals, I think reasonable care should insure that the master link is replaced when necessary. Examination of the link, as you would examine for chain stretch and other mechanical wear, is necessary. A competent mechanic should be able to exercise this reasonable care.

You're certainly correct that the price of the master links isn't that much, unless you like to remove the chain to clean and lube it--my personal preference, although I don't use the paraffin and the double-boiler any more.

If you've got a contrary example, I'm certainly willing to listen. You might save my neck. :)

[benb]

Well.. we keep hearing stories about 10 speed chains failing, and SRAM obviously made design changes in an effort to stop people from conveniently removing that master link, so I'm going to continue to follow the directions. Chain failure is not something I want to deal with, and it can be dangerous.

It doesn't seem to be as big of a deal with bicycles but it is a big deal with motorcycles, there is much talk and the general agreement is that clip-style chain joining techniques are ultimately not as safe as rivet style. Clip style only exists because it's more convenient.

But the clip style master link is totally and utterly pointless if it requires specialized tools just like a riveted link. And if SRAM's new chain can only really be split & reused with a tool like the park one, anyone who does manage to separate it without the tool has likely damaged the master link. Even if I had sucessfully removed mine, I would not have wanted to use it after the amount of force I had to apply to it.

My guess is clip style links are not as safe on bicycles either.. but since stresses are lower we get away with it.

It's a royal PITA to deal with rivets on motorcycle chains for what it's worth.. the full set of tools is like $200. You need one tool to break the chain, another to drive the pins properly, and another to "stake" the ends. We are lucky we don't have to stake the pins on Shimano/Campy chains.

If SRAM is only saying not to reuse 10-speed master links due to liability issues, there is no way they would not also put that warning on the instructions for 9-speed chains. It would make no sense. My reading is they fully support rejoining 9-speed, but do not support rejoining 10-speed at all with the same link.