How many wheels should I own?

[kgreene10]

Having already convinced myself to replace multiple parts on my still very, very new Serotta for no good reason, I am now actively being seduced by sexy wheels. Promises of speed, agility, and climbing Huatacam faster than Lance while sipping serenely from a cup of green tea dance through my head.

So, here's the question: how many wheel sets should I own? I mean, you guys all seem to have many sets. I have one -- a 1650 gr pair of Easton Circuits. I don't race yet but want to give it a try.

My guess is that you will tell me to stick with what I have until after I begin racing and then keep the Circuits for training and invest in a pair of lighter wheels for race day. Is that about right?

BTW, did you see the seemingly awesome Neuvation sale or the uniformly amazing reviews of Wililams Cycling wheels with ceramic bearing for five bills?

[Lanternrouge]

Unless you do time trials or have tubulars, I think you really only need two sets of wheels so you have a set you can use in the wheel pit and also a set in case you find out you have a flat as you're headed out for a ride. If you find you have a flat when you're heading out, it can make a really big difference in your mood if all you have to do is swap out wheels.

As far as how many wheels you should own, I think the answer is as many as you want, can afford and your partner (if any) will allow without giving you too much of a hard time about it.

If you want input on what your additional wheels should be, you will get a lot of input if you tell people what you want. If you just want a set of wheels that will work, that's easy to find pretty cheap, especially used. As far as racing wheels, I think that unless you're doing time trials, they really won't make a huge difference, although every little bit helps. My view is that aero trumps weight. The 50mm tubies from Neuvation are a great deal if you want some race-only wheels. The clinchers are basically the same rim as the blackwells, which I think are groovy, although the need for the special brake shoes on most wheels is kind of a pain in terms of swapping wheels.

[rustychisel]

n+1.

Sorry, that ought too be n+2, obviously.

I'd like all my wheelsets to have the same cassette type (eg 9 speed Shimano) and not require changing over the brake pads, which would annoy me a lot. As it happens I'm building wheels for my fixed gear bikes, such that I did have a completely spare pair, but they've now gone on another bike I 'just happened' to build up. Go figure.

[Volant]

You ALWAYS NEED on more set! :)

[Pete Serotta]

two pair are enough... One for eveyday and one 'special" Special is whatever gets you thinking of riding them. They also act as a backup set when "**** happens" to the primary set.

[Charles M]

I'de say 5 pair... Minimum.

1 for "training" which will become the wheels you never use because every time you ride with even 1 other person it's a race.

1 for climbing. As low weight as possible and without regard for the fact that at about 16 MPH aero trumps weight, meaning these are your up-steep-hill wheels.

1 set for windy hills. Mid-shallow depth Carbon tubulars for snappy climbing feel and better than shallow Aero performance

1 for rolling hills or higher wind days, Carbon Tubular mid depth front and Semi-deep rear that keep the weight down and add Aero, but are relatively stable in cross winds.

1 set for flat land hammering. Deep front deeper rear.

And if you get another bike, you'll need 10 sets (as the decal colors need to match.



Or you can simply go get yourself a set of hand builts and spend 5-900 bucks on a set of wheels that will be as light and durable as virtually anything pre-made for twice the price...



I would go for options 1-5 and the handbuilts but I am a real nutjob who spends too much time and money obsessing over things...

[flickwet]

Maybe some race wheels deep section, oh I know maybe sumthin fatter like some 25's or even 28's for those rough road rides, deep section trick wheels, Ya gotta have a set of those just for your neighbors to see them on your hotrod bicycle, I get sooo many comments on my cheapo spinergys they were worth it just for kix ,great on the cx bike but sucko in the wind Always true to boot. Yeah and try some tubies some time, lotsa fun cheap used stuff out there to try.

[TAW]

I like to have 3 sets. One is a training set of good riding, easy maintenance wheels that can be also left in the pit during a race. Then one set of aero wheels for TT and then a set of climbing wheels for races that are uphill significantly. A lot depends, as Lanternrouge said, on what type of riding you do.

[stuckey]

I have all slumming it wheel-sets, all aeroheads. I have two rears one laced to a white industries hub, one to a spedcific. For fronts I have a white industries hub, a speedcific, and a schmidt generator hub. I do mainly "training rides" and long solo brevet type stuff. For fixed I have a set laced to formulas.

[rwsaunders]

A trunkload. :cool:

[RPS]

One bike = one extra set

More than one bike = one set per bike

Preferably different wheel styles but interchangeable.

[Ti Designs]

Keep in mind who you're asking...

[sg8357]

The problem with extra wheel sets is they attract frames.
Storing extra wheel sets is always awkward, they store easiest
attached to a frame.

Scott G.

[caleb]

Or you can simply go get yourself a set of hand builts and spend 5-900 bucks on a set of wheels that will be as light and durable as virtually anything pre-made for twice the price...



Pez is speaking truth. For two years my primary ride has worn some Open Pro CD/DT Rev/Record wheels, and I couldn't be happier. They weigh 1550 grams, and cost less than some truely crappy wheels.

Paying $1000+ for shallow, metal, non-aero wheels only lets everyone else know you're a tool.

[musgravecycles]

Here's my "minimum wheel" list, which is funny because I don't even own the last set yet...

1: Cross Race--Tubular of course, mine are 36h DA to Nemesis' with Grifo's (a box-section rim is perfect down here, not much mud)

2: Cross Clincher/Pit--Ultegra to Fusions with Muds

3: Road Tubular--Nemesis' again here

4: Road Clincher--everyday whatever wheelset (mine are DA to RR1.2)

5: Road Race--Still don't have, mine will be Cosmic Carbone's with Steher's

Edit: Oh, and I'm still l-u-s-t-i-n-g after a set of Edge Composites for cx)

[vqdriver]

Promises of speed, agility, and climbing Huatacam faster than Lance while sipping serenely from a cup of green tea dance through my head.

lol :D

[Spud]

Selecting wheels is more than just a simple what's best question. You should ask yourself a couple of things first.

1. Will they be for racing only?

2. What type of riding are you doing with them? Crits, group rides, solo, road races, climbing etc.

3. Would you be willing to use tubular's?

If you are racing only and will use your Easton's for most rides and training than you can use more brands than if you want to ride and race with them. When thinking about what wheels will work well for you you should think about weight, where at the weight is in the wheel, aero, lateral stiffness and spoke tension. The lighter the wheel is assuming it has sufficient spoke tension it will spin up quicker accelerating very fast. Aerodynamics allow you to keep your speed much easier once the wheel is spun up. Lateral stiffness is often under rated in terms of importance it allows you to corner better and more confidently and descend faster.

Higher spoke tensions help the wheel accelerate faster, make it more laterally stiff and increase spoke life and wheel durability.

Tubulars are lighter and faster! If you take the same wheelset in clincher and tubular after tires have been mounted the tubular will be 1lb to 1.5lbs. lighter all at the rim which is the most crucial spot on the wheel to loose weight.

I hope this helps you figure out whats best for you-I know I have my favorites ;)

[Peter P.]

If you build your own wheels, then all you need is one set because you can get yourself back up and running from a mechanical quite quickly.

If you don't build your own wheels, then two sets is fine. As a minimum, the second set should have the same hub and cassette as the first set so when you swap wheels, you don't have to futz with the gear adjustments.

Ideally, the second set will have rims of the same width as your primary wheels so you don't have to futz with your brake adjustments, either.

Can you say "futz"?

I don't believe in exotic, boutique wheels for racing because if you crash them, it'll be expensive, and sooner or later you WILL crash and wreck wheels.

Basic, serviceable stuff is all you need. Oh, and a pair of legs.

[Spud]

You can't use the word NEED to much when you talk about wheels!! I think wants are far more important.

[johnnymossville]

two sets are needed as far as I'm concerned. getting a flat while leading a crit during a breakaway and sitting helpless in the pits is literally,... THE PITS!

happened to me two weeks ago.

[stuckey]

A trunkload. :cool:

If I had the coin I would have that plus two extra sets just because. :D