Hub Questions

[coylifut]

As I look outside at the pouring rain and know I'll be racing cross in the same come tomorrow, it's got me thinking about hubs. It's the kind of weather that requires a complete hub service after just 45 minutes of use (pull both axels, freehub body, clean, re pack............). So, here are my questions.

1. Are hubs with cartridge style bearings a better choice (like Phil Wood), or will the dirt get in, get trapped and lead to an early demise of the bearings?

2. If cartridge style hubs are a better choice, will I still be servicing the freehub body just as often? (I'm not familiar with the free hub body on a Phil and I'm wondering what type of bearing used).

3. Am I just better off using standard type hubs and fully servicing them after such days?

4. Has anyone used the Morningstar Freehub Buddy and is it effective and worth the $?

[Too Tall]

Campag and Shimano "standard" hubs in my experience withstand the most severe conditions without needing re-packing each time....short of submersion that is ;) Personally, I believe wiper seals are the single most effective method for preventing water intrusion and that independant of bearings in races vs cartridge bearings. Infact, if anything cartridge bearings are more prone to contamination as the outside hub bearing typically is exposed or only protected by a dust shield. Hubs such as (flame on) CK are quite prone to the effects of contamination...which is a consideration eg. "how will the hub operate once it is mucked up?".

[zap]

I hate to admit it, but for crudy riding I prefer cone bearings like the old dura ace and xtr 8 spd hubs. I have both that are now 10+ years old and still work like a charm.

One early summer I rode my mountain bike in the surf on the outer banks,nc. Remember Smiley. This in addition to winter riding and regular mtb use. Took the hub apart for the first time two winters ago and the hub looked pretty good. Cleaned the balls and races and put in fresh PW grease. Ditto for the DA hub.

Darn heavy hubs work better than AC or CK hubs with sealed cartridge bearings.

[coylifut]

Campag and Shimano "standard" hubs in my experience withstand the most severe conditions without needing re-packing each time....short of submersion that is ;) Personally, I believe wiper seals are the single most effective method for preventing water intrusion and that independant of bearings in races vs cartridge bearings. Infact, if anything cartridge bearings are more prone to contamination as the outside hub bearing typically is exposed or only protected by a dust shield. Hubs such as (flame on) CK are quite prone to the effects of contamination...which is a consideration eg. "how will the hub operate once it is mucked up?".

Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking that sticking with standard is the way to go. My experience is that in really nasty conditions (think last year's cross nats and quite common where I live) the drive side/free hub side gets filled with sandy-gritty crud like you would find if you were panning for gold. If not attended to, the race in the freehub body scores in short order at $30 a pop. I have a couple of em that I've kept. When I show em to my non CX racing friends, there’re astonished. However, the non drive-side will be fine.

[Kane]

My bike mechanic is 'Gravy', and Gravy says, "The Hugi 240" hubs are very well sealed, they make less noise than ck, and the freehub ratchet mechanism is one of the strongest designs available." (E.F. Hutton commercial take-off)

Gravy owns Gravy wheel bike store in San Anselmo, CA. (He is one of the original Mt. Tam guys and he is smarter than the average bear.) He charges $70 per wheel for a build plus parts.

Cheers,


Kane