SRAM Red Chain install questions

[PaulE]

Has anyone installed a SRAM Red group with a compact crank? Does their recommended chain sizing of Big/Big+2 work for the compact as well as for the standard crank? I will try that as well as checking derailleur tension in small/small before cutting, but am curious if anyone has experience here.

What is the current thinking on the petroleum product that comes on new chains? Degrease before installing and then lube or install and just lube over whatever it is that's already on it? For Shimano and Wipperman, I have been in the degrease before installing camp, but this is my first experience with Red.

Thanks.

[Dave]

That method works, but if it's done with a 23T (or smaller) largest cog, the chain may be too short if you later change to a different cassette.

The absolutely foolproof method is to set the length in the little ring and smallest cog. Make the chain as long as possible, but not so long that it hangs loose or rubs on the upper pulley chain guide, as the chain passes below it. This method maximizes the wrap capacity of the RD.

With a compact, you could also shift up to the second cog and check the chain tension in the combo, since compacts can rarely make use of the little ring and smallest cog, due to chain rub on the big ring. Some bikes even get a little rub with the second cog.

This method works for any double or triple, although triple users won't normally use the little ring and at least the two smallest cogs, so the third cog could be use to set the length.

It takes a 4T difference to equal the minimum 1 inch of chain that can be changed, so shifting up 1-2 teeth rarely changes the length selected.

[PaulE]

I have not had a 9 speed or 10 speed Shimano equipped bike yet where the chain did not rub on the inside of the big ring when trying to use the small ring in front and the smallest or 2 smallest cogs in the back. The 9 speeds were with 53/39 cranks at first and subsequently compacts. I know that you're not supposed to use this combo anyway and don't expect the Red to be any different in this respect. Another bike I have that still has 8 speed 105 and a 52/42 crank can use any gear combo without the chain rubbing on the inside of the front ring and the front derailleur trim is adequate for any gear combo as well. More speeds is progress though, I happily drink the kool-aid. :)

I will be using the 11-26 Red cogs. A 12-26 with a 16 would've been my choice, I need an 11 like a moose needs a hat rack, but I'm sure it will be fine. I'll check both methods before I break the chain.

So, what are people doing with their new chains these days? Degrease the stuff that's on them in the packaging or just install and put more lube on?

[Dave]

PaulE, The fact that your 52/42 doesn't rub in any combo is primarily due to the 52/42 ring. As the tooth difference increases with a 53/39 or 50/34, the number of cogs rubbing increases. Chainring spacing has not been changed anymore than necessary for the narrower chain, so you can't blame more speeds for the chain rub problem.

As for lubing a new chain, I use homebrew and just apply it to degrease the outside of the chain and lube the chain. Someone will undoubtedly post the old wives tale that the factory rust preventitive coating (like cosmolene) is a great lube and should be used initially. The stuf certainly attracts dirt and I would not trust that all critical surfaces were coated with it. I lube before using a new chain.

[PaulE]

I'll certainly lube it before using. I think I'll strip it clean before lubing as well. Since the manufacturers put the new chains in a sealed package, it would be greener to coat the chains in chainlube.