Broken dropout adjustment screws

[Jeff N.]

I got the stuck BB out of my Carrera Zeus frame OK. Thanks for your advice on that, it turned out to be easier than I originally thought. Now, it's on to the dropout adjustment screws that're broken off. Any ideas on how to remove these? Thanks. Jeff N.

[rePhil]

Are they both broken? Where are they snapped at? Options depend if they are frozen or not.Can you use a dremel cut a slot, use screwdriver?
Can you grab them with needle nose vise grips?
Are the dropouts painted or chrome? You may need to use the "heat wrench"

[Jeff N.]

I'm almost certain they're frozen. They're broken flat, with a slight amount sticking out into the dropout. Haven't tried needle nose vicegrips yet. Dropouts are chrome. You think they make an EZ out that's small enough? That's been suggested. Jeff N.

[dvs cycles]

Are they this type?
http://www.novacycles.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=80&osCsid=540a19bb88f4aa4fb6cbb24503068e5a

[David Kirk]

That is a tough on. Those screws are M3 thread and in most cases the screw is very soft. It would be very surprising if an easy out worked.

Drilling the whole thing out and cleaning up the threads is a possibility ...... I've had to do that and it can be done but it's tricky to drill the bolt and not the dropout.

Good luck,

dave

[CaptStash]

Before you do anything, find a product called PB Blaster (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1415930) and give the screws a good solid dose for at least a couple of days. Then very carefully try the vice gribs approach. If there is enough diameter, I think I'd probably try a screwdriver slot first though before trying the vice grips.

A heat wrench (yeah, fancy name for a torch) is an option, but only if you already plan to paint the frame and know what you are doing. The other option is drilling it out and either re-tapping or finding an itsy bitsy teensy weensy easy-out (good luck with that). If you can get a small tap into the screw, you may be able to screw it all the way "through" the frame if that makes sense.

Good luck.

CaptStash....

[Peter P.]

If you use any liquid like the PB Blast recommended, after application, and when you're ready to apply some wrenching, instead of just working in one direction, try rocking your pliers/wrench back and forth gently to break the bond.

Before you even try the PB Blast and force, try a FULL can of freeze spray. Available at any electronic hobby story, maybe Radio Shack.

The only other solution I can think of is to replace the dropout. Peter Weigle once told me he prefers customers leave their seized screws in the dropouts for him to remove rather than break them off themselves. Perhaps he has a solution he'd be willing to share. It might be worth a phone call but don't forget to thank him for any advice he offers. I don't think he eats Twizzlers, though.

[Jeff N.]

Thanks for all your ideas. I mean it. I'll probably take the frame over to JB, as I fear I may screw things up further if I attempt to remove them myself. I'm sure JB, or one of his guys, will come up with something. Worse case scenario would probably be that I wouldn't have dropout adjustment anymore, which probably wouldn't matter. It's just that I'm the type of person who has to have everything work as it is supposed to...if possible. I'll chime in and let you know how it turns out. Again, thanks. Jeff N.

[Dekonick]

Ouch. If you try to drill, I wouldn't freehand it. Do you know a local machine shop? They could probably do it with minimal effort, but - like DK said - I Imagine it will be hard to not damage the hanger.

Bummer.

[staggerwing]

One of the tricks, besides the PB Blaster, is to drill with a left hand drill bit, as the drill is working to unthread the screw. Although, since the threading goes all of the way through the dropout, it probably doesn't make any real difference.

[Dave Wages]

I've had luck drilling these at Waterford with a smaller drill bit than the final hole size. You have to be careful to stay lined up, but once through, you can usually run a tap down and push the remaining threads and bits out.

[Jeff N.]

I've had luck drilling these at Waterford with a smaller drill bit than the final hole size. You have to be careful to stay lined up, but once through, you can usually run a tap down and push the remaining threads and bits out.That's EXACTLY what JB had in mind! Hope it works. Jeff N.

[Jeff N.]

The thought occured to me...the adjustment screws aren't really needed on this frame, as the dropouts are rather shallow and the wheel lines up fine without any needed adjustment. If all else fails, could those screw holes be filled in with, say, silver solder? Jeff N.

[Fixed]

bro i don't use them but mine is fixed
cheers

[false_Aest]

One of the tricks, besides the PB Blaster, is to drill with a left hand drill bit, as the drill is working to unthread the screw. Although, since the threading goes all of the way through the dropout, it probably doesn't make any real difference.

+1

Also. If you can get it to turn easily you can attach a *something* to the broken off end via a thicker, non-runny version of super glue and then just unscrew it. Dunno how it'd work on drop out screws but I've done it with broken water bottle cage screws.