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[Peter P.]

I can think of two methods.

1. Use the automotive masking tape used by the bicycle painters to mask frames. Purchase the tape at an autobody supply or art supply store. Apply and cut out the areas with a virgin, Exacto knife blade. Then, I'd fill in the areas with Testor's model paints. When you remove the tape may vary; either immediately after the paint is applied, wait until it sets but is not cured, or wait until it's cured. An auto parts store might have more exacting color matches. With the Testors colors, you can blend two or more together to achieve a more perfect color match.

2. I use a New Hermes engraver at work. It's a computerized device that will engrave names, logos, and artwork on most materials. After I engrave plastic cases, I fill in the letters with enamel ink pens/markers purchased from an art supply store (Sorry; I can't remember the brand). The way these pens work is, you shake the pen for about 15 seconds. To apply the ink, you depress the spring loaded, felt tip (which comes in various widths), and ink saturates the tip and flows out.

It takes a couple minutes for the ink to set up, but the white is opaque enough that the black case doesn't show through. It does come in various colors. When dry, I use a folded paper towel dipped in Mineral Spirits, wiping the excess Mineral Spirits off on a piece of cardboard so the paper towel is just dampened, and lightly wipe off the areas I want to remove the paint from. With practice, you can achieve great results and in the interim, if things don't look right, you can always remove the ink with a toothbrush and Mineral Spirits.

So, I'd say a trip to the art supply store would be another good place to start.

Forget spray-on, unless the color match is close. Then spray some into a disposable cup and dip your brush into the puddle.

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[William]

I did a very similar thing with yellow Testors paint back in the mid 90's on one of the Serotta Skinkbirds. Follow the link and you can see the engraved "S" on the BB shell, rear brake bridge, and the fork crown. Basically I just in-filled the engraved letter with a very fine point brush, and them immediatly wiped off the excess leaveing just the in-filled portion. The photos arent the best but it came out very nice and held up fine over the years.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=4219&highlight=SR-71

Looks like you want to fill a larger area than I did. When I colorfil carved glass, I'll thin it out a little bit so it flows easily, then load the brush and touch into the area I want to fill and let the paint wick into the area. I'll repeat at a steady pace until the area is filled up to where I want it, close to the top.

You can see a few examples here...
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=5393&highlight=glass+art

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=5395&highlight=carved+glass

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=5394&highlight=carved+glass


Hope that helps a little.



William


PS: When we acid etched stainless, bronze, copper etc..., we would generally use glasurit when we colorfilled them. Testors should work though. Also keep in mind that dust can show up on wider areas when colorfilling them. I doubt you'll be using a paint booth, just try to make the area as dust free as possible. Depending on where you want to do this, spritzing/misting the floors with water from a spray bottle before hand will really cut down on the amount of dust that gets kicked up by your movement & ventilation.

[11.4]

Two suggestions:

First, what you really want for the best possible color and for evenness are cloisonne enamels. These are actually fine colored glass in a base that keeps them from running. A mail order jewelers supply such as Rio Grande Supply (Albuquerque) will have them. Colors are fabulous. This is what Faberge used for all the color on his famous jeweled eggs. They don't fade and they are brilliant.

Second, sounds like you're willing to peel the badge off to refinish it? Will Kish send you a loose replacement? It's hard to get them off and then reapply them without the badge looking crumpled a bit. And if they're especially nice you might get an extra one to experiment with.

Is it a titanium badge? If so, you can anodize it as well for brilliant color. Titanium can be anodized many colors depending on solution, voltage applied, etc. You can also do variegated colors, etc., and even mask parts with a vinyl masking solution so you can do two or three colors. This has the advantage of keeping the texture of the metal, plus you don't add weight :).

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