I'm back: Riding in Israel

[93legendti]

After a whirlwind 2 weeks, we got back yesterday. I rode 5 days in a row while we were in the North and missed the 6th day, when we were going to my cousin's restaurant on Mt. Gilboa. The only road to the mountain from our lodging was closed for 3 hours because of a fire at the beach near the road and dense smoke covered the road, making driving impossible. I was really sad about this, because the road up the Gilboa corkscrews around the mountain with the most amazing views of the valleys below.

Jet lag is pretty bad now, but I will give a preliminary report:

Road conditions: Very Good - every road I was on was smooth and either new or repaved within the last few years - quite refreshing from my local riding roads.

Drivers: Great - other than one driver who was a little too close, while I was descending the Gamla Rise in the Golan Heights, drivers gave me a wider birth and were more accommodating than Michigan drivers.

Riding atmosphere: Amazing - the Saturday before we left, 1500 people took part in the Kinneret Triathlon. In a country of 7 million people, that is amazing. The Thursday morning I rode up Mt. Hermon (the highest spot in Israel) 4 people were at the top when I got there, 2 on Pinarellos, a Super Six and a Trek Madone. I passed 2 more riders on the way down, one touring fully loaded (I saw him again 2 days later in the south/central Golan region enjoying the gentle descending sweep of the Golan plateau) and another who looked ragged, so I stopped and gave him a water bottle. People were intrigued by my Bike Friday and asked a lot of questions. I was packing it up at out lodging on Moshav Ramot and a few people called their friends to see the suitcase and bike.

BTW, the BF was perfect for the trip. All I had to do is remove the seat mast with the seat post still attached, undo the rear triangle's QR, fold the rear half and place the bike in the back of our minivan. Less than 2 minutes every time to "break down" or reset for biking. My S&S coupled bike would have been more involved and time consuming.

The scenery was breathtaking. Riding up to our cabins with the Kinneret and Naftali mountains to my right was simply too pretty to comprehend as the everyday view for the citizens living here.

In the North on the Golan, the roads are better marked; traffic is much less; the shoulders of roads are wide and the mountains are steep. Mt. Bental was brutal: 2-3 kms or so, but a % of over 15 according to the locals. The Bental is part of a chain of old volcanic mounds that rise up from the gentle, undulating countryside. An IDF patrol on the way up offered me a ride. Mt. Hermon seemed to be only 6-8% with a headwind that disappeared when the road curved right and the Gamla Rise seemed to be 8-10%. The problem was we stayed on Moshav Ramot and the climb to our cabins was a STEEP 4 km of ~10% or more. By that time I was climbing back up our road, the sun was beating down, so I had always save something for the climb home. There is a bike path around the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) that is being built. 55km or so, I think is the length of the ride.

While I saw plenty of bikers the 1rst week in the center of the country (Herzilya Pituach, a nice suburb/small town north of Tel Aviv), there were way too many drivers, too many roads; too many narrow roads and I didn't know the area as well. I saw bikes EVERY where, more than I do here. People biking for fun (with helmets) people biking to work; people biking with groceries. I saw plenty of nice bikes, Pinarellos were the most common. The riders I talked to at the top of the Hermon said biking had taken off in the last 2 years and it was the fastest growing sport in the country. On the Golan, there at least 2 places renting bikes for bike trips.

The ironic part of riding in the North is after climbing for 15 minutes or so, you always see a sign that reads: "Sea Level". It always made me feel as if I had gotten any where for the last 15 minutes.

I am already planning a Cycling Mission to Israel for 2009.

Sorry for the ragged thoughts and writing, I have been speaking Hebrew for the last 2 weeks. Photos to follow.

[Fixed]

After a whirlwind 2 weeks, we got back yesterday. I rode 5 days in a row while we were in the North and missed the 6th day, when we were going to my cousin's restaurant on Mt. Gilboa. The only road to the mountain from our lodging was closed for 3 hours because of a fire at the beach near the road and dense smoke covered the road, making driving impossible. I was really sad about this, because the road up the Gilboa corkscrews around the mountain with the most amazing views of the valleys below.

Jet lag is pretty bad now, but I will give a preliminary report:

Road conditions: Very Good - every road I was on was smooth and either new or repaved within the last few years - quite refreshing from my local riding roads.

Drivers: Great - other than one driver who was a little too close, while I was descending the Gamla Rise in the Golan Heights, drivers gave me a wider birth and were more accommodating than Michigan drivers.

Riding atmosphere: Amazing - the Saturday before we left, 1500 people took part in the Kinneret Triathlon. In a country of 7 million people, that is amazing. The Thursday morning I rode up Mt. Hermon (the highest spot in Israel) 4 people were at the top when I got there, 2 on Pinarellos, a Super Six and a Trek Madone. I passed 2 more riders on the way down, one touring fully loaded (I saw him again 2 days later in the south/central Golan region enjoying the gentle descending sweep of the Golan plateau) and another who looked ragged, so I stopped and gave him a water bottle. People were intrigued by my Bike Friday and asked a lot of questions. I was packing it up at out lodging on Moshav Ramot and a few people called their friends to see the suitcase and bike.

BTW, the BF was perfect for the trip. All I had to do is remove the seat mast with the seat post still attached, undo the rear triangle's QR, fold the rear half and place the bike in the back of our minivan. Less than 2 minutes every time to "break down" or reset for biking. My S&S coupled bike would have been more involved and time consuming.

The scenery was breathtaking. Riding up to our cabins with the Kinneret and Naftali mountains to my right was simply too pretty to comprehend as the everyday view for the citizens living here.

In the North on the Golan, the roads are better marked; traffic is much less; the shoulders of roads are wide and the mountains are steep. Mt. Bental was brutal: 2-3 kms or so, but a % of over 15 according to the locals. The Bental is part of a chain of old volcanic mounds that rise up from the gentle, undulating countryside. An IDF patrol on the way up offered me a ride. Mt. Hermon seemed to be only 6-8% with a headwind that disappeared when the road curved right and the Gamla Rise seemed to be 8-10%. The problem was we stayed on Moshav Ramot and the climb to our cabins was a STEEP 4 km of ~10% or more. By that time I was climbing back up our road, the sun was beating down, so I had always save something for the climb home. There is a bike path around the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) that is being built. 55km or so, I think is the length of the ride.

While I saw plenty of bikers the 1rst week in the center of the country (Herzilya Pituach, a nice suburb/small town north of Tel Aviv), there were way too many drivers, too many roads; too many narrow roads and I didn't know the area as well. I saw bikes EVERY where, more than I do here. People biking for fun (with helmets) people biking to work; people biking with groceries. I saw plenty of nice bikes, Pinarellos were the most common. The riders I talked to at the top of the Hermon said biking had taken off in the last 2 years and it was the fastest growing sport in the country. On the Golan, there at least 2 places renting bikes for bike trips.

The ironic part of riding in the North is after climbing for 15 minutes or so, you always see a sign that reads: "Sea Level". It always made me feel as if I had gotten any where for the last 15 minutes.

I am already planning a Cycling Mission to Israel for 2009.

Sorry for the ragged thoughts and writing, I have been speaking Hebrew for the last 2 weeks. Photos to follow.
welcome back bro you could start a touring co.
see any cats on fixies there ?
it must feel good to go somewhere that feels like home when you are on vacation ..
cheers

[Sandy]

Nice job. Entertaining and interesting commentary. I have never been to Israel but my wife and brother-in-law have. My brother-in-law, father-in-law, and mother-in-law lived there. I knew that there were some pretty steep hills but had no idea that there were so many cycists. Is that a more recent phenomenon? Glad that you enjoyed yourself so much. Was wondering why you were not posting any.


Sandy

[Keith A]

Welcome back and thanks for the report. It sounds like nice place to ride and it is great to hear that cycling is taking off in this country.

[93legendti]

Nice job. Entertaining and interesting commentary. I have never been to Israel but my wife and brother-in-law have. My brother-in-law, father-in-law, and mother-in-law lived there. I knew that there were some pretty steep hills but had no idea that there were so many cycists. Is that a more recent phenomenon? Glad that you enjoyed yourself so much. Was wondering why you were not posting any.


Sandy
Sandy, everyone I talked to said the last 2 years have seen an explosion (no pun intended) of bike riding in the country. The local paper also reported a road race and mountain bike race on the Golan the week we stayed there.

I didn't touch a computer for 2 weeks, it felt pretty good. :) I bet you would LOVE Israel. In fact, since you have lost weight and want to improve your climbing, you should join my Cycling Mission tentatively planned for March/April 2009.


Anyway, the trip was one small coincidence after another. At the Valley of Tears, an English speaking man asked me to take his picture. I asked him why he was there. He said he was a Mahal volunteer in '48 (Mahal was the name given to foreign citizens who came to defend Israel in the War of Independence) and came with to reunite with his commander. I asked his commander, Bearila, what branch he was in. He said Shayetet, the naval seals. I asked him if he knew our babysitter's uncle, who was in the Shayetet. He said "of course, I was his commander". A man in our neighboring cabin was also in the Shayetet and he knew our babysitter's uncle- as did the son of the owner of the cabin. I asked them all if they knew my friend Chiney Marum, the Chief of Staff of Israel's Navy. They all replied, "of course". I asked them to please send him my regards and I am sure Chiney will be sick of the name Adam Baker in the next 2 weeks. :)

Our babysitter's uncle also went to school with my cousin.

welcome back bro you could start a touring co.
see any cats on fixies there ?
it must feel good to go somewhere that feels like home when you are on vacation ..
cheers
No, didn't see any fixies, but I am sure in 5 years they will be all over the place. You would have liked the scooter drivers in the big cities, they dive between cars like crit riders.

[fiamme red]

That was a very interesting report. My sister lives in a suburb of Jerusalem and my brother-in-law was considering buying a bike for commuting, but he decided that it was too dangerous with all the crazy drivers.

You know the old joke?

"What is the shortest measurable quantum of time?"

"The time between when an Israeli traffic light turns green and the guy behind you starts honking his horn."

[93legendti]

I should also note a few other things of interest. From the Bental I could see 6-7 wind turbines on a neighboring volcanic mound; there was a huge bull in the middle of the road as I descended the Hermon (good thing my bike and jersey were both red). I passed it without incident, but my HR did go up; all toilets I saw in Israel had 2 different flush handles designed to minimize water consumption; people turn off the tap water when they brush their teeth and wash their hands. Lastly, there are trees and flowers everywhere, no small miracle, considering 69% of Israel is desert and the last few years have seen too little snow and rain.

Oh yes, I saw 3 U.N. white APC's descending Mt. Hermon as I climbed the mountain. I waved; they waved back. Seeing them surprised me. I never saw them before while I was in Israel. I did have a white U.N. APC pointed out to me from my vantage point in a THICK, concrete bunker on the Northern Border. This was a rather serious place where no women soldiers are allowed. The U.N. was in Lebanon monitoring Hezbollah. We also met with the body guards of the IDF's General Staff who were responsible for Pres. Bush's security while he was in Israel. The commander of the unit, a Lt. Col., offered our babysitter a job in his unit. She almost took the offer. Her father was PM David Ben Gurion's body guard in '62, a fact that was most assuredly in the file he had on his before we visited the unit.

Security in Israel's international airport takes 3 hours and is vastly different. Everyone it seems is personally interviewed; no one takes off shoes and you do not have to take out liquids from your carry on bag and put them in a quart sized ziploc bag. They do check your bags with a hand held device, which I learned about under a guarentee of secrecy from the General Staff''s body guards' commander.

[93legendti]

That was a very interesting report. My sister lives in a suburb of Jerusalem and my brother-in-law was considering buying a bike for commuting, but he decided that it was too dangerous with all the crazy drivers.

You know the old joke?

"What is the shortest measurable quantum of time?"

"The time between when an Israeli traffic light turns green and the guy behind you starts honking his horn."

Really, I heard very few horns. I can't even remember hearing one as I sit here. I laughed, because everyone thought I was crazy to drive in Israel, even my Israeli father in law, who lives here. I dare say, I enjoyed driving in Israel. It reminded me of my late father and him driving us every Shabbat to the Kinneret/Jordan River junction to swim.

NOW, people did drive aggressively, especially trying to enter roundabouts. But my wife, who lived there for 4 years in the '90's, implored me to be aggressive and I was.

Actually, one thing I hated. Driving in Tel Aviv and the immediate suburbs is stupid. The signs are too small, there are way too many 1 way streets and none of my wife's family can give directions. Thank G-d for my wife's sweatheart of a cousin, Merav, who shepherded us everywhere while we were in the center of the country.

Jerusalem is dangerous for cyclists. My mother's friends' son was killed by a driver while cycling there.

[vaxn8r]

It's hard to imagine riding in Jerusalem...but that's what I would have thought about London proper and I've seen many cyclists navigating there.

I was in Israel in the late 80's and it was one of my all-time favorite travel experiences. I didn't bring a bike but there were many areas that looked great for riding.

Sounds like a great trip.

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . but I can't restrain my curiosity. Given the state of political situation, did you every feel nervous about cycling out by yourself? Or is the "political situation" just something that is deceptive because that's all we hear about in the media?

BBD

[Bud_E]

Very nice ride report Adam. Sounds like a very successful trip on many fronts and I'm looking forward to the pictures. I'm not particularly religious but our trip to Israel last October was, by far, the best trip I've ever taken and was very meaningful to me personally. As I said before I would highly recommend it to anyone. The Kinneret area and the Golan Heights are spectacular.

What's a Cycling Mission ?

[93legendti]

. . . but I can't restrain my curiosity. Given the state of political situation, did you every feel nervous about cycling out by yourself? Or is the "political situation" just something that is deceptive because that's all we hear about in the media?

BBD
Dave, it is a fair question. The 2nd week we slept with our doors unlocked. There is NO crime on the Golan and I never gave a second thought to "regional safety" while cycling. My only concerns were traffic and if a road was too steep to descend. I would cycle again there in a second and can't wait to go back.

Last Saturday, we had lunch at a soldier friend of ours in-laws' house. They showed me where the Katushas hit all around them during the last War. They didn't leave during the War.

We sponsored a barbecue for 350 soldiers one night and 340 of them, including ~30-40 women, had M-16's slung over their shoulders. Many were crowded around us as we watched the festivities. My kids, age 5 and 2, were there and I was never concerned in the least- even about a gun accidentally discharging. If it was here, it would be a different story. It just seemed normal there. A reserve soldier we talked on the Bental had a 9mm tucked in the rear of his pants; he and his friend were hiking in the mountains. We all sat next to his table and it was perfectly fine.

Now, the old Northern Road that borders Israel and Lebanon might give me pause, since it is there the 2006 War started with a Hezbollah ambush of an IDF patrol on the Israeli side of the border. But everyone assured me it was safe. My kids were in the bunker on the Northern Border with a flak jacketed heavy machine gunner standing lookout. Everyone said it was safe for kids to be there and there were no concerns at all.

Actually, I never felt safer. I would not have endangered my kids at all and for that reason did not go south near Gaza. We shopped at malls and everyone's bag is searched and they have metal detector toting guards at every entrance with gates preventing cars from getting close. If my Israeli cousin would take her 3 month old baby to a shopping mall in Tel Aviv (Azreali - the nicest mall I have ever been in) it was also safe for my kids.

It's just different there. In the '70's we used to cram 4 hitchhiking soldiers in our Peugeot station wagon along with the 5 of us and they had their weapons on them. No problem.

[taylorj]

How does one get an opportunity to sign up for the Cycling Mission in Israel? I am the only person in my family who has not been to Israel. It's on my list!

[93legendti]

How does one get an opportunity to sign up for the Cycling Mission in Israel? I am the only person in my family who has not been to Israel. It's on my list!

My email is adambaker29@comcast.net

Please shoot me an email so I can keep it in a seperate folder. As details emerge and get firmed up, I will contact you.

[3chordwonder]

That 'mission' sounds like a seriously interesting cyclo tourist trip (hope those words don't cause offence, given it's all tied up with more serious stuff). If I wasn't already scheduled to be riding in the Ardennes next spring I'd be enquiring as to whether it's possible to get on one of these kinds of trips.

Really enjoyed reading the trip report, thanks for posting.

[93legendti]

That 'mission' sounds like a seriously interesting cyclo tourist trip (hope those words don't cause offence, given it's all tied up with more serious stuff). If I wasn't already scheduled to be riding in the Ardennes next spring I'd be enquiring as to whether it's possible to get on one of these kinds of trips.

Really enjoyed reading the trip report, thanks for posting.

None taken, it's probably as good a description as any. I'm hopng to make this an annual event, so there is always 2010.

[Fixed]

are you back riding after the vac. bro ? you bikes missed you
cheers
did you see the fixed gear bike friday in the custom gallery ? i like that bike a lot
cheers

[93legendti]

Fixed, I rode yesterday...I forced myself. My legs felt great, even though my head was foggy.

I saw that fixed BF in the Gallery and at BF's site, pretty cool.

[Bud_E]

Without any intention of starting a political discussion, with the current talks (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/22/world/middleeast/22mideast.html?partner=rssnyt&emc=rss) that are going on now, the days of being able to visit the Golan from within Israel may be numbered.

[93legendti]

Without any intention of starting a political discussion, with the current talks (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/22/world/middleeast/22mideast.html?partner=rssnyt&emc=rss) that are going on now, the days of being able to visit the Golan from within Israel may be numbered.

Well, I shook the PM's hand a few years ago...can't say I'm happy about it. My friends say this is nothing new and the PM will be in jail before he can complete this distraction from his legal woes...

[coylifut]

interesting comment about the use of water. when i went to grad school, some 15 years ago, a freshman isreali guy lived next to me and we became life long friends. being that i was 3k miles from home, his family took me in as well. what i remember about him the most is he'd get in the shower - you'd hear it turn on - then maybe 10 seconds later it would turn off and he was done. not a drop of water was wasted.

another thing i remember is that just a few years ago my family and i flew to miami to attend his wedding where we were treated as honored guests. when the wedding started the Rabi said "this is a unique event for me because it marks the first time that the bride and groom both speak better Hebrew than I."

sounds like a great trip.

[ox_rider]

I
Enjoy the bike.

:beer:

I guess I am sort of confused by this post. The ride didn't take place in a vacuum and clearly Adam (who I don't know) has a history of and love for the country. It is through that lens that I think he views everything that he saw on the trip and while riding. I think any of us can appreciate a good climb that leads to beautiful vistas regardless of where they may be. That he added the purpose of the cycling mission when asked directly about it shouldn't cause him to either self-censor or, unless it violates forum policy, the forum to censor his comments. That you disagree with his viewpoint isn't objectionable and your right to ask him to limit his comments isn't neutral politically either. I frankly find your comments distasteful, but wouldn't think to impede your ability to post them.

[Pete Serotta]

Please, lets chill. No one should be asking for donations.


I have reread the thread and I have missed where a donation is asked for. Yes there was mention of IDF but I did not see it as a "ad" or a request :confused: :confused:

Can we get off the religious, nationality, and just focus on the great riding?


THANKS

[fiamme red]

[QUOTE=M.Sommers]Cycling? Yes.

Stick to cycling, M.Sommers. Start a Sean Kelly thread, wishing him a happy 51st birthday. :beer:

[PBWrench]

kol havod habibi. Ooli ani yachol t'hishtatef b'mishlachat!

[93legendti]

kol havod habibi. Ooli ani yachol t'hishtatef b'mishlachat!
Betach! Beseder gamur. Yesh lee pgisha machar eim rosh ha Agudah poh, levchor ta'arichiim. Ve ani audia lecha! Kol tuv.
Absolutely. 100%. I have a meeting with the local director of the organization/association to set the dates. I will notify you. Regards.

[Pete Serotta]

I am sure that I will make others unhappy, but I did delete some and add some to a few posts. Hopefully this will enable all to enjoy the cycling and country narrative.

If this is not acceptable, I feel I am left with little choice but to close again, Yeah it is not a popularity contest and all will not be happy no matter what I do. As a result, all I can do in try to be fair in my dealings. (But since this in unable to be quantified - it will also be open to differing opinions.


Thanks to all for the notes and comments....PETE

[Bud_E]

Thanks, Pete. :beer:

[PBWrench]

My post, loosely translated, means: "Good on you! Maybe I can participate in your mission." I really enjoyed reading 93's travelogue as it was clearly intended to be riding related, and not political in nature.

Please let me convey my apology if my transliteration offended or confused anyone. I certainly empathize as there have been countless posts over the many years I have participated in this forum that included text in German, Swiss and what have you that I could not understand. (Sarcasm intended)

[Fixed]

bro the bike friday i don't know much about them you were not wanting your reg. bike there ..it looks like you can turn on a dime with them
cheers

[93legendti]

bro the bike friday i don't know much about them you were not wanting your reg. bike there ..it looks like you can turn on a dime with them
cheers

The BF turns REAL quick. My 700c bikes feel weird after a few days riding the BF. And a 700c bike is much stiffer in the HT than the BF.

[93legendti]

AARGH! I have the pics on 3 discs and they are all to big to upload...stay tuned, I'll sort this out...

[Blue Jays]

Sounds like a fantastic trip. Such an area rich in history. I have visions of a nice lightweight bike, with reasonable geometry, and 28mm (or wider) tires for comfortably exploring interesting spots.
It's wonderful to read that the residents are also eager to welcome even us non-practicing Episcopalians to their country. :D

[djg]

AARGH! I have the pics on 3 discs and they are all to big to upload...stay tuned, I'll sort this out...

Get them sized -- I think that a lot of us would like to see them.

Maybe not all of us . . . but a lot, myself included.

[93legendti]

Get them sized -- I think that a lot of us would like to see them.

Maybe not all of us . . . but a lot, myself included.
I'm thinking of doing a Flicker...time is the factor now...

[fiamme red]

Looks interesting:

http://www.zimuk.co.il/event_2.asp?event_id=22&lang=eng

200 km a day, from Tel Hai to Eilat in three days.

[93legendti]

Looks interesting:

http://www.zimuk.co.il/event_2.asp?event_id=22&lang=eng



200 km a day, from Tel Hai to Eilat in three days.

It sure does. But this day conerns me:

Thursday 16.10.08 Tel – Hay to Dead Sea 205 KM

Startting at Tel - Hay crossing Keryat Shmona to Rush Pina and Amiad. Korazim, Almagor and the Sea of Galilee. Route 92 and Zemach. Along the Jordan valley, Bet shean, and all the way with route 90, Argaman and finish point at Kalya on the north point of the Dead Sea.


I drove on Rt. 90 and I specifically thought to myself that I could NOT ride a bike on that road...which is a bummer becasue my cousin's restaurant is on the Gilboa Mountain in Beit Shean. Which meant no warmup and start the ride at the base of the mountain...