changing pads on DA brakes

[Climb01742]

ok. i'm a wrench doofus. let's begin there. but i want to learn. switching pads on DA brakes seems pretty straight forward. is there anything i should be aware of? any tricks? anything to watch out for? if the old pads are hard to dislodge, any tricks for getting them out? or tricks for getting new pads to slide in? in advance, yours in doofusness, thanks!

[bostondrunk]

ok. i'm a wrench doofus. let's begin there. but i want to learn. switching pads on DA brakes seems pretty straight forward. is there anything i should be aware of? any tricks? anything to watch out for? if the old pads are hard to dislodge, any tricks for getting them out? or tricks for getting new pads to slide in? in advance, yours in doofusness, thanks!

Climb,

Are you using the 7800 series brakes? If yes, it's deadly easy. Unscrew the tiny allen screw on the pad holder, and the pads slide out fairly easy, at least in comparison to the holders of days gone by... Slide new pads in, put screw back in. Done.
I replace mine with Kool Stop pads every so often, and they are really easy.

[Climb01742]

Climb,

Are you using the 7800 series brakes? If yes, it's deadly easy. Unscrew the tiny allen screw on the pad holder, and the pads slide out fairly easy, at least in comparison to the holders of days gone by... Slide new pads in, put screw back in. Done.
I replace mine with Kool Stop pads every so often, and they are really easy.

BD, yep, 7800s. it does_look_straightforward. just wanted to ask before i started, instead of screwing up in the middle! ;) thanks!

found this on the shimano site:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/8A00A-001_BR-7800/8A00A-001_BR-7800-EN_v1_m56577569830615915.pdf

[rnhood]

Leave it to Shimano to provide very clear and, detailed instructions. Such a class outfit. Don't forget to set the toe as indicated in step 2. And, its a good idea to clean your rim surface if you have not been doing it on a regular basis.

[ClutchCargo]

Process for the 7700's is the same, right ?

[Too Tall]

They are the only pads you can change in < 5 mins :)

I unscrew the tiny screw than run the bike backwards and grab brakes that gives me enough to grab with fingers or pliers and out they come.

Use a dental pick to clean the brake block tracks so you don't push debris back into the holder. Insert the new pads and run the bike forward hard a couple times than snug down the keeper screws. Done.

[jtferraro]

I have 2 sets of pads/carriers - 1 for aluminum rims, 1 for carbon rims. I completely swap for the other when going from aluminum to carbon rims and vice-versa. Am I doing this the hard way?

[vaxn8r]

I have 2 sets of pads/carriers - 1 for aluminum rims, 1 for carbon rims. I completely swap for the other when going from aluminum to carbon rims and vice-versa. Am I doing this the hard way?
Yes, you only need to change the actual pads, which leaves the allignment untouched. Takes 5 minutes max to change out Shimano type pads fore and aft.

[Ahneida Ride]

Install Salmon Kool Stops too !!!! ;)

[jtferraro]

Yes, you only need to change the actual pads, which leaves the allignment untouched. Takes 5 minutes max to change out Shimano type pads fore and aft.

Yes, I was aware of this but when I purchsed the 2nd set of pads/carriers, I was running DA 7700 brakes. At the time, I was told having the 2nd set of pads/carriers would be the best (easiest) bet. Is this even true (did the 7700 series NOT lend themselves to swapping JUST the pads)? You're right - the alignment issue can be a bit of a pain. I put the pads back on the same way they came off but I've found I sometimes have to re-center the whole caliper slightly, so both pads make rim contact concurrently.

Thanks,

[TimD]

The -7800 dry compound pads are a massive improvement over the -7700 pads, IMHO, and worth a switch if you are still running -7700.

[jtferraro]

The -7800 dry compound pads are a massive improvement over the -7700 pads, IMHO, and worth a switch if you are still running -7700.

Nope, now I'm running everything 7800 now (calipers and both sets of carriers, as well as the stock pads). The only difference is that my 2nd set of 7800 carriers has Zipp Kool-Stop pads installed.

My old bike, however, had 7700 calipers and the shop had advised me to buy a 2nd set of carriers (they sold me 7800's) for the Zipp Kool-Stop pads.

I guess that's why I'm wondering if there were any changes from 7700 to 7800 carriers re: removal & installation of pads?

Thanks,

[TimD]

Hey Jeff -

Well, I have had no problem installing -7800 pads in -7700 carriers. I have a set of -7800 but haven't yet changed the pads in them.

As noted above, the -7800 carrier seems to allow for toe adjustment. The -7700 carrier may as well, but I've never seen it documented, nor have I tried to set it.

I'm not sure what would be easier - sliding a brake pad out & in while the carrier is still mounted on the caliper, or removing the carrier, replacing the pad, and then resetting the alignment. I've found different wheels can require different pad vertical adjustment. If that's true in the case at hand then maybe just removing the carrier & changing the pad is the easiest. Of course then you need to hold the carrier somehow while you remove the pad...
:crap:

[oldguy00]

Anyone ever tried one of these??

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/brake-toe-in-tool/product/brake-shoe-tuner-19005

[ClutchCargo]

Anyone ever tried one of these??

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/brake-toe-in-tool/product/brake-shoe-tuner-19005

No. But thanks a lot, Oldguy -- I thought I was doing just fine by
not running into things. Now I find I have to work on improving
my "stopping prowess." Great ... just great!




:rolleyes:

:D