Applying Linseed oil methods/procedure

[Michael_g]

I'm looking at applying linseed oil to guard against rust on my frame. I have never used any rust "proofing" before on any bicycle frames. The reason choosing linseed over framesaver et al, is that I prefer its non-toxicity.

I was wondering though, how on earth does one go about applying it? and is it necessary to keep it off/out of:

1- the treads in the bottom bracket?

2- the area where the headset bearings sit? (the frame has an integrated headset)

3- and the seattube area where the seatpost is installed? (the tolerances of the frame are fairly tight and I want to make sure I can still install the seatpost without any problems and I use grease in any case.)

Any information on these concerns, would be greatly appreciated.

[cpg]

I'm looking at applying linseed oil to guard against rust on my frame. I have never used any rust "proofing" before on any bicycle frames. The reason choosing linseed over framesaver et al, is that I prefer its non-toxicity.

I was wondering though, how on earth does one go about applying it? and is it necessary to keep it off/out of:

1- the treads in the bottom bracket?

2- the area where the headset bearings sit? (the frame has an integrated headset)

3- and the seattube area where the seatpost is installed? (the tolerances of the frame are fairly tight and I want to make sure I can still install the seatpost without any problems and I use grease in any case.)

Any information on these concerns, would be greatly appreciated.


The classic way is to pour the stuff in the tubes and move the frame around to coat the inside of the tubes. Then let the frame sit for several days to drip and dry up. I think you're splitting some fine hairs with regard to the non-toxicity of linseed oil vs. frame saver. Linseed oil is only slightly less toxic at least boiled linseed oil. Linseed oil is neat stuff but I wouldn't characterise it as a "green" product. I'd just shoot your beloved frame with frame saver and feel green in knowing you're frame will last a long time and not end up in a landfill.

Curt

P.S. I am all for green-ness.

[Michael_g]

I was thinking more along the lines of the aerosol can, etc... Any idea about the bottom bracket threads? since its somewhat tacky, I was wondering if I need to somehow keep it from getting into the threading.

[thwart]

Welcome to the Forum.

Curt is one of the leading framebuilders around, so his advice is definitely worth noting.

I've found I can get by with about 1/2 a can (or less) of FrameSaver to treat a frame, so you could definitely share a can... again aiming toward minimal environmental impact.

[MilanoTom]

I was thinking more along the lines of the aerosol can, etc... Any idea about the bottom bracket threads? since its somewhat tacky, I was wondering if I need to somehow keep it from getting into the threading.

Hold the frame upside down to spray the down tube, and then stuff plenty of rags/paper towels into the bb shell before turning the frame right side up (and around to evenly coat the down tube. Then do the seat tube with the rags/paper towels still in place, and give it enough time to start drying before removing them. You may still get some dripage in the bb shell & threads, but I've never had it make any difference.

Regards.
Tom

[Michael_g]

I'm going to give it a go this afternoon I think. All very helpful. Cheers ~Michael

[WadePatton]

Raw linseed oil can be purchased in food grade.

The "boiled" type is toxic.

[cpg]

Is the raw stuff used for rust prevention? I know the hobby airplane builders still use the boiled stuff but I don't know about the raw juice.

Curt

[Frank]

I put the frame in the bike stand and, for example, start with the top tube.
I have the bike level and put a rag in one end of the top tube (headtube end
first for example). I then spray into the top tube from the seattube end.
Then I take the rag out and put it into the seattube end of the top tube. I
then spray into the top tube from the headtube end. I then put a rag in each
open end of the top tube (seat tube and head tube openings), take the frame out of the stand, and "roll" the frame around as if I was trying to coat the entire inside of the top tube...which I am.

After that, I put the frame back in the stand and I stuff a rag in each end
of the top tube, in the bottom bracket shell, and at the bottom of the
headtube. I then spray the seat tube and head tube and down tube and let the bike sit til the spray is not running anymore.

I then tilt the bike with the rear of the bike pointing down. I spray into
the chainstays and into the seat stays if I can, plus the downtube. I spray
the fork steerer while I am waiting for this to dry some (rag in bottom of
fork crown).

Finally, I put a rag on one side of the bb shell and spray the bb shell
inside from the other side.

It is more art than science, as the Weigle is a bit messy and smelly and you
need to make sure to put something down to catch the drips, although they
have cleaned up ok for me off the garage floor. Don't need too much as a can
is supposed to do 4 or 5 bikes as I remember. If it runs out on the floor
you are wasting it.

I think the main source of rust is some water getting in during a ride and
not being able to exit the bottom bracket if there is no drain hole. Even on
bikes without it I now drill a small hole at the lowest point of the bb
shell to let water drain out.

Frank

[rePhil]

Be careful how you dispose of any linseed oil soaked rags. A local couple lost their home recently when they left a pile of them in the garage after doing some refinishing.

[11.4]

I don't believe that raw linseed oil will congeal on the tube surfaces like the boiled stuff does. As a result, it doesn't really protect.

So you raise an interesting question: With stainless internal top tube fittings for brake cables, why can't people make split cable stops in stainless so they don't rust out and go bad?

[WadePatton]

Raw never really dries according to my woodmaster friend--and I didn't mean to imply that I thought it should be used. I like it on walnut gunstocks, but it can be weeks between coats.

Peter's stuff is what I'd use.

SS cable stops. Brilliant.

[regularguy412]

I don't believe that raw linseed oil will congeal on the tube surfaces like the boiled stuff does. As a result, it doesn't really protect.

So you raise an interesting question: With stainless internal top tube fittings for brake cables, why can't people make split cable stops in stainless so they don't rust out and go bad?

Maybe brass, too?

Mike in AR:beer:

[thinpin]

I've used it to protect steel frames I find the boiled hardens to a "shell like" finish...better than the raw. Toxic? ... only if consumed, try not to. It takes a few days to dry ( hot Australian sun) and even then you might find it runs from the air holes in the stays days after the build. Wipe it off quick. Yeah.. dont leave the rags around. No issues with the threads in BB so far.
Fish oil is another "green" product used here (but maybe not for the fish concerned) and my new Peg is being coated in that. Hope the pong is short lived.

[cpg]

So you raise an interesting question: With stainless internal top tube fittings for brake cables, why can't people make split cable stops in stainless so they don't rust out and go bad?


These are made.

Curt

[11.4]

These are made.

Curt

Tell more? How about triple stops for cross bike top tubes?

[cpg]

Tell more? How about triple stops for cross bike top tubes?


Not sure if triples are made but I'll look into it. Certainly three singles can be stuck together for a triple. And you thought I couldn't do the math.

Curt

[thwart]

Cable stops in stainless... wait... but then we'd never, ever be able to pound the housing caps out with a screwdriver and hammer. :D

[cpg]

Tell more? How about triple stops for cross bike top tubes?

Nova has triples in stainless.

Curt