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View Full Version : tubular base tape question..


tbushnel
03-30-2008, 11:16 PM
Well, managed to get a flat on my new Conti Steher tire the first time out :crap: :crap: :crap:
Anyway, it seems it is a very small puncture but it so happens it is very close to the "seam" on the base tape where it overlaps. How close can I get to the overlap when prying up the base tape to patch the tube without fear of compromising the seam?
Thanks,
ted.

catulle
03-31-2008, 12:03 PM
Huh...? Sorry but I don't understand the question. To fix the tube in a tubular tire you need to cut the seam open to reach the tube. Then you must sew it up again and re-glue the tape. Is there something here that I'm missing? :(

thwart
03-31-2008, 12:05 PM
Sounds like a sidewall puncture... ?

mister
03-31-2008, 01:01 PM
yeah sounds like a sidewall puncture real close to where the basetape ends at the sidewall....or he's talking about where the basetap actually overlaps itself for that very small bit.

tbushnel
03-31-2008, 01:04 PM
poor description. puncture is on the middle of the tread, so not on the sidewall. To reach the threads of the casing you obviously have to pull off part of the base tape. The area where I would like to do this (directly under the leak) is very close to the area of overlap of the two ends of the basetape.
My question was whether it is ok to pull up the base tape where it over laps itself or should I avoid this.
hopefully thats more clear.
ted.

Spicoli
03-31-2008, 01:21 PM
Throw some Tufo crap in it and save the headache of cutting it open. Stuff aint half bad for tiny holes and much less invasive. ;)

11.4
03-31-2008, 04:36 PM
Absolutely no problem. In fact, sometimes when you've pulled up a length of base tape you have to cut it and overlap the ends just so it'll lie down smoothly. The tape is just there for chafing protection and to stick to both the rim and the tire casing adequately. It's not that sophisticated. There are those idiots (who I won't mention but like to swim, run, and ride in the same day -- which is so stupid because they could just ride) who have a thing about pulling the base tape off and gluing the tire casing directly to the rim. Shows you how much the base tape is doing for you. Don't worry about it, Ted. Just be sure it's glued back on tightly.

tbushnel
03-31-2008, 05:57 PM
Thanks 11.4. I have been waiting to repair some tires that I have abused and this recent puncture has put me over the threshold. Now I have to get in the groove and patch two and replace a tube in another. Still a slow process for me, but good to learn/practice it.

cheers,
ted.

11.4
03-31-2008, 08:31 PM
Thanks 11.4. I have been waiting to repair some tires that I have abused and this recent puncture has put me over the threshold. Now I have to get in the groove and patch two and replace a tube in another. Still a slow process for me, but good to learn/practice it.

cheers,
ted.

You neurologists don't know how to use a needle and thread like a good thoracic surgeon :). You'll have to catch up on the first tire or two, but it's definitely easy and fast when you have it down. If one tire is really shot, it's worth doing 3-4 practice repairs on it just to get into the groove.

It really helps to have a little tool tray and the right tools. I have a fabric store seam ripper, a pair of fine needlenose pliers (actually some Crile-Wood needle holders are the best), a pair of parallel-jaw pliers with a wide serrated jaw (great for pulling base tapes off and for pulling apart the casing), an Olsen-Hegar hemostat for one-handed stitching and trimming, some nice but larger size suture needles, and for the best stitching, some 20 lb flat dacron tubular braided line (called Micron and sold as backing for fly reels at any flyfishing shop). The right tools make tire repairs much more civilized. Throw in a good sized piece of suede that you can lay in your lap so glue doesn't get on your clothes and needles and such don't slide away. I used to use a fancy floor lamp and then learned from a European pro mechanic that one of those little Petzl $30 headlamps actually worked superbly to give you light exactly where you needed it.

tbushnel
03-31-2008, 11:33 PM
They don't let me get near anyone with anything sharper than a toothpick - for good reason :p
Great run down on some of the tools you use. I do have a sacrificial tire that would be good for practice - good thought.
I have my evenings planned for the week. :beer:
ted

huey
04-01-2008, 12:51 AM
11.4 another great response with a ton of way valuable information.
nice job. :)

theprep
04-01-2008, 07:22 AM
Absolutely no problem. In fact, sometimes when you've pulled up a length of base tape you have to cut it and overlap the ends just so it'll lie down smoothly. The tape is just there for chafing protection and to stick to both the rim and the tire casing adequately. It's not that sophisticated. There are those idiots (who I won't mention but like to swim, run, and ride in the same day -- which is so stupid because they could just ride) who have a thing about pulling the base tape off and gluing the tire casing directly to the rim. Shows you how much the base tape is doing for you. Don't worry about it, Ted. Just be sure it's glued back on tightly.


11.4

I know the Steher has a butyl tube.

What do you use to repair a latex tube?

I have never seen a latex tube repair kit. The glueless Park ones seem to work ok.

thanks,
Joe

tbushnel
04-01-2008, 09:50 AM
I also wondered what others do. I have been splicing latex tubes with aquaseal, and it seems to work well though I have only done a few. I think a patch cut from another latex tube and this stuff should work.
Well see what the pros do though.
Ted.

11.4
04-01-2008, 10:57 AM
I go back and forth. Occasionally I will patch a nice track tire and in that case I'll definitely go with a piece of light latex inner tube from an old tubular, glued in place with Rema patch cement. Everything has to be rubbed down very well with acetone to be sure the patch sticks really well. I've tried Aquaseal and Seamgrip but they tend to make for a stiff spot in a very lightweight tire, though on a mid-weight road tubular they work OK. They are also somewhat messy and slower to harden up so I can get a good repair on a road clincher tube but it usually is more hassle than it's worth for a tubular.

For most road tires, a standard Rema patch and Rema patch cement work fine. Again, whatever they coat latex inner tubes with tends to inhibit the gluing a bit so patches like to peel off. It's important to clean the tube well. The instant Park patches really don't seem to hold reliably -- they are an alternative to get you home in the case of multiple punctures, but then I peel them off and re-do the repair. For tubulars of course, they aren't a solution anyway.