What would you do with this frame

[sfscott]

Tomorrow, I expect a vintage Masi Grand Criterium that I bought to arrive. It's a late 70s/early 80s SoCal version, and until I get a good look at the serial number, I can't say much about it's provenance, although it was raced by someone who was sponsored by Shimano. Eeek, Shimano on that frame.

Anyway, I am planning to have it fully repainted and redecaled to original condition. As I will likely have to buy new parts for it, I am toying with whether to build it up with vintage parts and use it for a townie or eye candy or, assuming there is no structural issue and the rear spacing can easily be stretched, fit it out with current components and use it for real riding.

It will definitely be a second, just for fun bike, as the Serotta will be the primary ride, but having had a jones for a lugged steel frame, just wondering what all you smart people would do.

Assume that getting a Kirk in not in the cards anytime soon.

[SPOKE]

i vote vintage. this way it will be ridable eye candy........especially after the new paint and such.
i had Tom Kellogg do a restoration paint job on my Masi Jubilee edition. really did a nice job. just beware if you want new chrome on the lugs and dropout faces. it gets very pricy then.

[PBWrench]

I vote vintage as well. Check out my Raleigh Professional restoration in the custom bike area. I had a blast locating NOS Campy equipment, mostly on e-bay and from specialty dealers. Going vintage can be expensive though. If you're interested I can give you leads that I uncovered. Best of luck and enjoy!

[Jack Brunk]

Built it into a 12 or 14 speed with DT shifters. Use super record components and use your regular every day pedals. You will love the ride with very little drop off compared to today's components. Good luck.

Jack

[Jeff N.]

So OK, I'll be the one repondent who says go for current Chorus-10. Jeff N.

[Dekonick]

or go fixxie!

[rwl]

California Masi - that's easy. They're just too special to stretch. Go vintage, but ride it!

Rick

[BigMac]

I would NEVER respace such a frame, heck that frame may even be 120 spacing. At best it's 126, you would need a 130 spacing for 'modern' gear. I'm never for the restore to new "eye candy" approach, it's a machine -- in the case of a Masi, a VERY fine racing machine -- it deserves to be ridden. If it's 126 and you are really into aesthetic appeal, cobble together a C-Record gruppo and just ride it...MUST lace the hubs to Record Pave rims and nice sewups :banana: . If you're looking for functional utility and save a few $$ from 126 bike, consider an Athena gruppo w/C-Record or Croce cranks or as blasphomous as it may sound, an entire Suntour Superb Pro gruppo save for Simplex or C-Record shifters no matter the balance of components. If in fact its 120 rear spacing, I might consider a Nuovo Record gruppo for the right price or if you are REALLY into sexy looks in favor of function, a Huret Jubilee RD is a must. I would however use standard spaced Winner or Regina Pro/CX freewheels with any RD, consider a narrow spaced freewheel with Superbe Pro RD only. 120 spacing will be 5 speed or 6 speed Ultra (narrow), the 126 is 6 speed std or 7spd Ultra. You could also use a 'modern' rd of the Suntour slant-parallogram design with friction shifters, the cog spacing of the freewheel however would not work with modern brifters. Campy hubs were probably the best, Phil still offers both 120 and 126 at considerable cost but amazing quality. You may also consider Hi-E hubs for 120 frames. The Superbe Pro (Specialized Road were rebadged Superbe Pro) were GREAT 126 hubs as were the Mavic sealed bearing hubs -- in fact I have a pair of Mavic hubs fitted with OS aluminum track axles (5mm allen screw eliminates qr mass, hassles and ease of theft) that have outlasted 3 rims and are still silky smooth on original bearings. 120 and 126 spaced frames are still EXTREMELY viable, there is no reason to screw them up with respacing.

As a previous poster suggested, fixed gear is an option. The Masi horizontal dropouts make chain tensioning very simple.

I would also suggest you use Testor's model paint for touch ups and save your money rather than the full repaint decal gig unless there is significant signs of rust or you just have to spend money. Bikes are depreciating assets and tools for transportation, excercise and enjoyment. Unless the bike is for a museum, make it a functional tool. Bicycling is a sport, its about riding.

Ride on!

[Smiley]

Too much Common $ense , but the engineer in me likes that about your Sir Mac . I'd fix gear that puppy and ride it till the stays rust off.

[Ken Robb]

I have "The Mighty Stelvio", which Joe Bell thinks started life as a Nishiki Pro. Campy dropouts, lugged steel, and all NOS 1981 Nuovo Record Gruppo. It is eye candy, the Campy stuff is really fun to look at and touch and it's a great ride. 62x59cm let me ride with bars and sadle level. I did replace the narrow,Cinelli bars and stem with Nitto Technomic Deluxe and 44cm Noodle bars. I've got 52-42 rings ang 14-28 7 spd Sunrace freewheel. It is eerily silent even coasting. I replaced the Campy pads with Jagwire which stop better. I ride it a lot more tha I thought I would. It's just as fast or faster than some of my modern bikes and I caught on to riction shifting pretty quickly. I know that the Suntour Power Ratchet shifters in my garage would shift easier but the all-Campiness is pretty darn cool. It's not as easy riding in pacelines as with Brifters but that's not my favorite kind of ridng anyway.
I guess this is another vote/encouragement to build it with period stuff, don't paint it yet, and see what you think about the bike then. You may be glad you kept it as is. OTOH if you decide to repaint, etc. you'll know why you are doing so---you must really like her ride and want to give the old girl the Bo-tox special treatment. If you do get nice old gruppo and later decide you really want modern stuff you can always get your $$ back on nice classic Campy gear. You can't say the same about used modern stuff.